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Ma.K Group Build 8/2010-8/2011

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  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Atlanta, Ga.
Posted by MrSquid2U on Sunday, November 21, 2010 6:14 PM

 

And the old school way of showing weld beads.

I made sure to leave a gap for the bead to nestle in. Real world heavy welds are sunk into troughs created by beveling or the angle at which objects rest together for better penetration anyways.

First I lay a bead of liquid cement.


Then lay in some styrene stock.



Recoat the stock with more liquid cement.



Wait five or ten minutes (it varies) until it has softened and then work my way down the bead with a pointed object to leave the 'pattern'. That's it, let it dry or look at it again in awhile and touch it up- the styrene will be softened for a good amount of time.

       

 

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by Gunpla Master on Sunday, November 21, 2010 8:18 PM

Das Grosse Toad, or for those who do not speak German, The Big Frog:  Started this a couple weeks ago and worked on some today.  This will be my 1st Ma.K walker.  In the back ground is something I played with today as well,  the beginnings of a Skin Head using a 1/48th Academy Hughes 500D body, cut, chopped, filled sanded and sanded to get to this shape. I try as I might to work on other subjects, but I seem to go right back to the Ma.K models as a favorite subject for building right now.  Just can't not get enough of the stuff.  I hope to use the mechanic in a display w/the Krote!  This will also be a 1st as well.

Added heavy weld marks, I like the look of on a Heavy Hitter.

 

/ ]

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by Gunpla Master on Sunday, November 21, 2010 8:26 PM

Thanks Mr. Squid for the weld bead tip, just the sort of stuff we need to take these little jewels to the next level.  I use your method for fine bead work, I used a different method on the Krote for heavy handed armor tuff weld using Squadron Green Putty mixed w/Testors Cement.  I put about a 1/4 of a bottle of liquid cement into a paint mix jar w/lid, squeeze a generous amount of putty into glue, stir well, dip out a small amount into a paint palette and transfer dab by dab, when it starts to set off, add detail with the back of a knife blade.  Place the lid on the jar and you have liquid putty for future use.  Hey what do you think Mr. Surface putty is?  Look forward to more of this build MrSquid2U.

the GunpCool

/ ]

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Atlanta, Ga.
Posted by MrSquid2U on Sunday, November 21, 2010 8:47 PM

Gunner,

 A Krote! EXCELLENT! And the weld beads will add a lot to that one. Then a copter based project too? This will be cool!

I look forward to them!Yes

       

 

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Kings Mountain, NC
Posted by modelbuilder on Monday, November 22, 2010 10:44 AM

Well I made some progress on the Mel this weekend. I tried the Milliput again and this time it worked well. I guess it was operator error the first time. Here are a few pics of what i have so far. keep an eye on the Armor and autop forums also. I have a few other projects going.

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Atlanta, Ga.
Posted by MrSquid2U on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 9:09 PM

ModelBuilder,

 I'm glad you "recovered" from the original Miliput incident! Great to see you get started on the Mel and I'll look forward to how you attack it!

       

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Atlanta, Ga.
Posted by MrSquid2U on Tuesday, November 23, 2010 9:42 PM

Well, have most of the suspension components accounted for now. Went with a Torsion Bar suspension which comes off of the upper suspension arm and of course runs along the body. That gets rid of visible springs and arguably keeps exposed springs from getting damaged in rough terrain or combat situations. One side down, one to go.

 

       

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Atlanta, Ga.
Posted by MrSquid2U on Thursday, November 25, 2010 2:59 PM

Getting closer to setting her on her feet!

To maintain suspension geometry on the asymmetrical platform this mount looks quite different, But all the suspension mount points were lined up by a rod passed through from front to rear and this is where this one came out.

       

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Atlanta, Ga.
Posted by MrSquid2U on Friday, November 26, 2010 8:19 PM

 

With some of the suspension sorted, turned it back upside so that the wheels/tires wouldn't be in the way for some more building. The boom from the donor kit (LARV) along with a cooling vent were added to the rear.

       

 

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by Gunpla Master on Friday, November 26, 2010 10:27 PM

Looking good and looking forward to seeing this puppy with some shoes on! Yes

/ ]

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by Gunpla Master on Saturday, November 27, 2010 10:09 AM

I have got it bad, that's the Ma.K bug that is!  I can't seem to stop buying them and @ the moment I have 4 projects going @ same time.  I am not concerned they will not get finished, well I am bogged down w/Scout Flyer, still trying for the round plastic spoon, found out that the white type plastic spoons here in the USA are not styrene, but another type of plastic to allow you to wash in a heated dishwasher, trying now to find a clear one, they seem to be able to be glued and hold.  So that's the status of the SC, working on getting together the parts f/a Skin Head, have already cut, assembled and sanded the torso for it from a MD500, now need the legs/feet from a Gustav and the arms from a AFS Mk1.  The Krote is progressing and started playing around w/a box-less Nitto Fireball, not the SG, but the 1st version w/the equipment on the back exposed and not covered as in the SG which also come w/a different laser.  Bought this from a fella in Canada and did not @ time realize it did not have a box, camo card, decals in bad shape and a pilot bust that looks like Quise Motto.  The main torso shell was warped and took a bit of finessing to get together the way it was to look, but I did.  I have always liked this version of the SAFS and will post some photos soon.  Other wise, hope all you  Ma.K's had a great Turkey Day and a great weekend.

the GunpCool

PS: ModelBuilder, sorry dude, did not realize that was you.Surprise

/ ]

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by Gunpla Master on Wednesday, December 1, 2010 6:01 AM

Well, everyone is busy w/holidays and life.  Found the poor thread 2 pages away.  Just thought I would post to bring back to the front of the Forum. 

the GunpCool

/ ]

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Wednesday, December 1, 2010 1:42 PM

Why thank you GM, and happy holidays to you too. It's been busy around here for me, but I did manage to get some work done on this project.

I finished the hands, at least for now. I may choose to add more detail later, but at the moment they will suffice. I had to fit and shim some of the parts using scrap styrene bits:

Turning to the sensor, I wanted something a little more interesting than the kit supplied parts. I filled the unit w/ Aves, and pressed it into a bowl shape w/ a ledge around the sides.

Then I took some aluminum tubes and cut them to short lengths. I rounded off the end of the smaller one, then beveled the inner edge of the other w/ the tip of a drill bit. Both were glued together, and then fitted into a hole drilled for them in the Aves.

For the "glass", I cut a square from a discarded P.K.A. canopy, and carefully sanded it to shape so it could be dropped into the front of the sensor. I'll dip it in Future to improve it's clarity, and after painting the whole assembly should look pretty good.

I attached the sensor to the front of the hull, and filled and sanded all the resultant gaps. Now it's ready for that first coat of paint. You know that coat that reveals all the seams that still need filling? That one. Big Smile

More to come...

 

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by Gunpla Master on Wednesday, December 1, 2010 8:20 PM

Cosmic, your mods are just over the top and will make the suit sing.  I really like the hands.  I have ordered a set of B-Club hands from HJL, but looks like they are coming on a slow boat from China?

Really looking forward to you build, what I have seen so far, puts it in a class by it's self.  I have that MD500 sight and now you have caused my little gears to start to turn.

the GunpCool

/ ]

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Cave City, KY
Posted by Watchmann on Wednesday, December 1, 2010 10:31 PM

Hello everyone!

The Gunp was kind enough to let me join the GB with my partially completed Nutrocker (1/76 Nitto).  Here's a pic.

Most of the pieces have been removed from the parts tree and cleaned up, but I haven't assembled much.  This kit has a lot of sink marks, so I've been spending a lot of time filling them.

You may have noticed the large hole in one of the underside "thrusters."  When I first started working on the kit, about two years ago, I had this "great" idea. Whistling  I thought if I removed just enough of the plastic from the inside of the thruster I could open it up so it would be possible to see between the fins.  I had planned to build some interior caps and other details inside.  So, I chucked a grinder in my drill press, set the depth gauge and started grinding.  Once I got a look at what I did, I threw it back in the box.  I found that the fins were not at a uniform depth, so they were wavy and paper thin where I stopped the grinder.

I'm working on making some new fins now.  I guess I don't have to put anything in there (no one really has to look under there... do they?), but I really don't want to leave a hole in the bottom.  I just hope I can make something that kinda matches.  I guess I could make a resin copy of one of the other thrusters, but I'm too cheap. ^^

m@

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by Gunpla Master on Wednesday, December 1, 2010 11:04 PM

Glad to see you posting this build after a 2 year wait in the box.  LOL, I thought I was the only one that did stuff like that.  You are right, once built and put down, no-one but you would know about the hole, I think the resin cast was a good idea however if you wish to put back as molded.  Excited to see another little Nutcracker in the GB.  Welcome and the main thing here is too have fun.

Everybody give Watchmann a juciy welcome!Propeller

/ ]

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by Gunpla Master on Wednesday, December 1, 2010 11:07 PM

CJ what fingers did you graft to the kit wrist, also like the alum stud f/mounting.  You seem to have a talent for making those digits look real.

GMBow Down

/ ]

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Atlanta, Ga.
Posted by MrSquid2U on Thursday, December 2, 2010 5:48 PM

Made a muffler with some brackets to mount it up.

       

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Atlanta, Ga.
Posted by MrSquid2U on Friday, December 3, 2010 1:40 AM

While I have figured out how, I'm not sure I want to? To have actual articulated working suspension the spindles attached to each wheel would need pivot points from each upper and lower control arm. That's usually accomplished with 'ball-joints' and I can make em. But they are a royal PITA!

However here's a prototype although it is only coming off of a control arm for now. Two pics to show the side to side range although it swings in a complete arc.

       

 

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Kings Mountain, NC
Posted by modelbuilder on Friday, December 3, 2010 10:43 AM

Just wanted to touch base on here. I havent left the group build. Still plugging away at the Mel. Got all of my parts ready to drill and insert wire so I can give it a dynamic stance. Running over some ideas in my head for a display base. I will try to post pics this weekend. waiting on parts to arrive and hopefully starting on a modified Dora soon.

CJ

Can you go into some more detail on you technique of making hands.

Squid

AMAZING, SIMPLY AMAZING

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Cave City, KY
Posted by Watchmann on Friday, December 3, 2010 3:56 PM

Can you tell us how you make those ball joints, Squid?

 

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Friday, December 3, 2010 10:21 PM

Gunpla Master

CJ what fingers did you graft to the kit wrist, also like the alum stud f/mounting.  You seem to have a talent for making those digits look real.

GM

Thank you sir, very kind. I admit that the stock hands in the MaK kits give me fits – I’ve modded or scratchbuilt them on every single suit I’ve ever built. The basic kit hands are just … bad.

For these fingers, I cut up a set of Kotobukiya aftermarket manipulators, specifically the 1/144 scale Custom Hand A set.

http://www.hlj.com/product/KBYMB-27

They carry two styles, the Normal Hands, and the Custom Hands (as in, "they're plain, so you can Custom-ize them yourself"). The A or B in the title refers to the scale – “A”s are 1/144 and “B”s are 1/100.

Note that there is a significant difference in the sizes of the Normal and Custom w/in the scale – here’s a picture of a 1/144 Normal, a 1/144 Custom, and a 1/100 Custom. I ‘m not sure why the size disparity.

 

modelbuilder

Just wanted to touch base on here. I havent left the group build. Still plugging away at the Mel. Got all of my parts ready to drill and insert wire so I can give it a dynamic stance. Running over some ideas in my head for a display base. I will try to post pics this weekend. waiting on parts to arrive and hopefully starting on a modified Dora soon.

CJ

Can you go into some more detail on you technique of making hands?

Cool. As I’ve posted, looking forward to seeing the Mel. Dora is a nice design too, and you have me intrigued.

For these hands it was pretty simple, if a PITA: using a razor saw I carefully cut the fingers off of the kit hands, then sanded the remaining “palm” into shape. I saved the base of the “pinky” fingers to mount the little finger on, but they were slightly damaged when I removed them.  To fix them, I used gap filling superglue to attach them to some plastic stock, and then sanded them back into their original shape.

The fingers were cut from the donor hands, and after cleaning them up, drilled and fitted w/ thin brass rods. Similar holes were drilled in the kit hands and the parts super glued together. The thumbs actually come from different hands in the same set, but were made the same way – careful cutting, sanding, drilling and gluing. There was some sanding at the base of each finger to get it to sit in the right position.

One dry, I painted Mr. Surfacer 500 into the joints, and then wiped it down w/ a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. That got rid of any gaps or unevenness.

The wrist (for now) is a simple aluminum tube drilled into the hand – it fits into a slightly larger corresponding tube I fitted into the forearm. Small details like rivets and screw heads were added, and I reshaped some of the parts a bit, but nothing too fancy.

These sorts of mods are a pain on the SAFS series of suits, but much easier on the Gustav/Konrad/Melusine. Instead of aftermarket fingers, you can just use styrene tubing and thin wire, and the remaining hand pieces make much better bases to work from.

 

Looking good Mr. Squid!

 

Hey Watchmann! Good to see you, and welcome aboard!

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Kings Mountain, NC
Posted by modelbuilder on Friday, December 3, 2010 10:42 PM

Im curious CJ, why not just use the donor hands all together? They clearly look better from what I see

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Kings Mountain, NC
Posted by modelbuilder on Sunday, December 5, 2010 10:13 PM

Well I promised an update this weekend and here it is. This is the culmination of the last three sessions at the bench. Ive added the hatch, antenna mount, and a few other items. Ive removed the factory mounting points from the feet and legs, drilled them and installed some #12 copper wire. I forgot to fill one leg section so next time at bench I will take care of that. Once I finalize the stance I will superglue everything in place.  The foam it is attached to is for the base I plan on doing. I am thinking a desert scene, maybe in Death Valley. There isnt much mention of the US in the Ma.K. timeline but I managed to find two references to North America being the main Merc. production facility location.  Ive also prepared a mold box to cast copies of the laser gun.

  • Member since
    December 2007
  • From: Louisville, KY.
Posted by Cosmic J on Monday, December 6, 2010 1:27 AM

modelbuilder

Im curious CJ, why not just use the donor hands all together? They clearly look better from what I see

I guess it depends on what you mean by "better". I chose to go this route for a variety of reasons, most of them having to do w/ aesthetics.

For a MaK design, the aftermarket hands are too "pretty", too clean. As I pointed out upthread, I wanted something that looked close to the hands in the original drawing on the Raccoon box, something more mechanical and inhuman looking. I think mine look sorta skeletal, or like a raptor's claw.

Additionaly, I thought the aftermarket parts looked wrong because of their size - on the Normal hand, the palm appears to be the right size, but the fingers look too short. On the Custom hand, the fingers are the right length, but the palm is oversized. You can see what I mean in these images from upthread:

The hand appears too big for the forearm, which is already larger than the upper arm. The combination gives the design an ape-like appearance, which I wanted to avoid.

Does that make sense?

 

  • Member since
    May 2004
  • From: Kings Mountain, NC
Posted by modelbuilder on Monday, December 6, 2010 10:57 AM

CJ

I can see where you are going with it now. It was hard for me to visualize it without the suit. I think I am going to have to invest in some B club hands myself. I want to have my Mel grasping the Panzerfaust, almost in a ready to fire position

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by Gunpla Master on Monday, December 6, 2010 7:10 PM

He looks like he had a run in w/Mobey ***.........LOLClown

/ ]

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Central IL
Posted by SLW 45 on Monday, December 6, 2010 8:56 PM

These are looking fantastic. Will have mine up if we get our new camera for the holidays.

                 

  • Member since
    May 2010
  • From: North Carolina
Posted by Gunpla Master on Friday, December 10, 2010 6:10 AM

Hello 45, look forward to you posting your photos/build.  So that all will know, my friend has had a serious illness that has been very hard on him, but yet thru this thread and Forum, he has had something to keep his mind on something other han his illness.  I for one truely look forward to his post if able, for I know he has had to put forth great effort to do this.  My hat off to you sir.  Post when you can, we will be here.  Your friend, the Gunp.

/ ]

  • Member since
    January 2005
  • From: Cave City, KY
Posted by Watchmann on Sunday, December 12, 2010 8:02 PM

Evening everyone o/

Gunpla Master

Glad to see you posting this build after a 2 year wait in the box.  LOL, I thought I was the only one that did stuff like that.  You are right, once built and put down, no-one but you would know about the hole, I think the resin cast was a good idea however if you wish to put back as molded.

I've got builds in boxes that are far older than 2 years. ^^

I managed to work up a fix for the hole in the bottom.  Here are a couple of pictures.  It's not exactly like the original, but I think it's pretty close.

When I was working on this kit 2 years ago, I had assembled the turret, but now I would like to make the laser cannon movable.  The bottom of the turret is a solid piece which have the key teeth that hold the turret to the hull.  I had to cut a large hole in the bottom so I could get my finger inside.  I have a lot of extra orange poly-caps left over from the gobs of Dorvack kits I bought back in the '80s, so I'll use one inside the turret.  I built a canister out of evergreen tube to hold the poly-cap and capped it on both ends.  I turned a rod of evergreen that fits the poly-cap.

I worked on the vent cover plate today.

Cosmic J

Hey Watchmann! Good to see you, and welcome aboard!

Thanks Cosmic, it's good to be here. :)

m@

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