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Spitfire GB

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  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Sunday, October 23, 2011 5:38 PM

Yes, those pilot figures are 1/48, plans are for the build to be in flight with wheels in the up position.  Was contemplating the propblur product, but it is a flat piece of photo etch and would not look good at every angle.
There is an online copy of that Osprey book here:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/51133722/Aircraft-of-the-Aces-Legendary-Spitfire-MkI-II
The copy is kind of light to read, nor am I sure how legal it is.

About the propellers, seems the spinner shape also indicates the manufacturer.  De Havilland's is a rounded point, while Rotol is a very blunt round shape.  Could be difficult to tell from just the tips, but I've noticed the Rotol ones are more angular at their base while the other has a more gradual flare.  A wide blade at the base is also most likely indicative of a wooden prop. 
http://spitfiresite.com/2010/06/battle-of-britain-1940-constant-speed-propellers.html

regards,
Jack

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Sunday, October 23, 2011 7:24 PM

"It's a slippery slope getting Spitfire books..."

Thanks for the warning, Tim, but it's too late.  Amazon had a "like-new" used copy, and the order is in.  How far is it to the bottom of the slope?  And thanks for confirming my guesses.

Jack:

Legalities will not be a problem when I have aforementioned book in my hands.  Thanks for the reference, though.  I can see what I'm getting.

Great photo comparison of the Rotol and de Havilland props (airscrews!) and spinners on the Spitfire site.  Very handy for I.d.-ing them.

I appreciate very much your input.  You both are the Obi-wans of the Spitfire.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: Watertown, NY
Posted by JailCop on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 6:47 AM

Got started on my Hasegawa kit, here's my progress so far!

 

I started on the Aires cockpit, mixing in PE parts from the included sheet and also a true details PE set.  Painted with MM acrylic RAF interior green, and finished with a light coat of Flory's dark dirt wash.

 

Got the wings assembled and together with the fuselage.  I did forget to open up 4 holes in the wings prior to installation, I hope this doesn't come back to bite me too hard!  Due to poor fit with the Aires cockpit, I was forced to use a lot of CA and clamps to get the two parts to join.  Also had to fill a couple lines with white putty.

 

Hoping to make some more progress today!

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Rothesay, NB Canada
Posted by VanceCrozier on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 7:21 AM

Jailcop - nice progress with all of that cockpit work.

On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Leonardtown, Maryland
Posted by Greenshirt on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 8:10 AM
Looking good jailcop. Hold the wing up to a strong bright light (not too close though!) and you should be able to see the holes.

On the bench (all 72nd):

  • 7 Spitfires & Seafires
  • Wellington III
  • N-9H Navy Jenny

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 8:26 AM

Excellent looking cockpit.  Looks like you're coming along fine.  Good work.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: Watertown, NY
Posted by JailCop on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 9:02 AM

Thanks guys!

 

Greenshirt:  I tried that bright light thing, but didn't see anything!  

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Rothesay, NB Canada
Posted by VanceCrozier on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 9:49 AM

JailCop

...I did forget to open up 4 holes in the wings prior to installation, I hope this doesn't come back to bite me too hard!  ...

Must have been for the bomb racks?? Just leave them off if you're not sure of the placement.

On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister

  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: Watertown, NY
Posted by JailCop on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 4:36 PM

Ok guys, I'm off to work for two 16 hour shifts, so I won't be doing any work on the spit for a couple days, here's what I got done this afternoon:

Shows a bit of the PE used...

 

I know it's tough to see but I also painted the underside in tamiya's ocean grey (RAF)

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 6:05 PM

That is a really fine job on your Spit Jailcop. Especially nice work on the cockpit.

 Well, I have met with a self induced set back on my Mk.Vb. I applied the kit supplied yellow wing edge decals which was challenging. One of them tore into three pieces yet I managed to slide them into place satisfactoraly and then got them settled in with some Solvaset. Then while examining my handiwork it became shockingly clear that I had set the decal to far inward on the wing edge. Purely a result of not paying close enough attention to what I was doing. After a deep breath I told myself "Concentrate on a solution not on the problem". So, I quickly dialed up Tamiya customer service to inquire on a replacement sheet of decals. To my dismay they had none in stock, none in a kit they had on hand and none currently on order. They said that they would order some up  but that it would normally take 8-12 weeks to arrive. Well, that weren't good. So, plan B is to use the other kit set of yellow wing marker decals for the clipped wing spit and then paint on the the missing section. Yeah, yeah, yeah I know I should have just painted it on in the first place but my masking attempts were not turning out well and I just made the call to go with the decals. It's all part of the modeling experience to me, Rather than getting my shorts in a bundle take the time to develop a viable or creative solution.

                                                 Joe

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    November 2005
  • From: Leonardtown, Maryland
Posted by Greenshirt on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 8:41 PM
JailCop: I hope you meant Medium Sea Grey for the undersides...Ocean Grey goes on the uppers.

Joe: don't give in! You can mask it, you really can.

On the bench (all 72nd):

  • 7 Spitfires & Seafires
  • Wellington III
  • N-9H Navy Jenny

  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: Watertown, NY
Posted by JailCop on Tuesday, October 25, 2011 9:16 PM

Jeez now you've got me wondering! lol  I just went by the instructions and the box art, it looked like a light gray on the underbelly and a darker almost blue grey on top with dark green camo.  lol and I wont be able to check until thursday night!  Argh! lol

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Wednesday, October 26, 2011 1:02 AM

Well that Ocean Grey mix up had me wondering if Hasegawa got it wrong, so went and checked as I have one still boxed.  Different kit, but instructions correctly indicate Ocean Grey is topside.  No biggee though, at least the decals haven't been applied.

Regarding the leading edge yellow strip, yea I too would suggest masking and airbrush.  Trying to get narrow decals to sit on an acute angle like that is just asking for it .

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Friday, October 28, 2011 5:48 PM

Just a small update...
Cockpit is ready for paint after making two pieces representing the pilot armour.  If my reading was correct this steel plating was of 7mm thickness and in total weighed 73 Ibs.  I calculated this to be about 0.145mm scale thickness but all I had was a sheet of brass 0.1mm thick, which shouldn't be too bad with a layer or two of paint.
Luckily I had an unbuilt Tamiya MK.Vb and used the kit parts as a pattern, sticking the two pieces on masking tape and cutting out with scissors.  Then the tape pattern was placed onto the brass sheet.  This too was cut with scissors.  I did not bother with adding any detail to the brass as the canopy will be fixed shut.

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, October 29, 2011 12:43 AM

Very creative adaptation, Jack.  Good for reference, too, since I don't think the 1/72 Airfix models include this detail.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by ww2psycho on Tuesday, November 1, 2011 4:42 AM

I should be putting primer on my spit after work today, spent yesterday fizing some seam work. I will post a pic when its primed.

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Friday, November 4, 2011 3:16 PM

Interiors and pilot are now painted, just need to put it together.  The crowbar on the door should of been removed as these were associated with the Mark V and onwards.  I left it since it will be hidden with the figure seated in place.

regards,

Jack

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by ww2psycho on Friday, November 4, 2011 3:19 PM

Very nice! I wish I could paint figures...

Im still fixing some seams i'll try for pics this weekend.

  • Member since
    March 2009
  • From: Quincy, MA
Posted by dante821 on Friday, November 4, 2011 6:24 PM

 

Wow, that pilot figure came out great.  Can't wait to see the rest of your build.

  • Member since
    August 2011
  • From: Panhandle Fl
Posted by Noah T on Friday, November 4, 2011 6:37 PM

jgeratic that looks real. Great figure, great shading on the panels. Well done. On the face was that a series of washes or what?

 

On the bench: 72nd scale P51D, P47D Razorback

---Everything Is What It Is, And Not Another Thing.---

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: MOAB, UTAH
Posted by JOE RIX on Friday, November 4, 2011 6:42 PM

 Jack, that is some really teriffic work. That pilot is extremely weel done. I too wish I had the knack, or motivation, for figure painting.

 I'm still working away at the decals on my Spit. I've had a few mishaps, but overall the Lifelike decals are fairly nice to work with. They initially seem a bit thick but, they're quite sturdy and settle in nicely with solvaset.

                                            Joe

                                                       

"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin

  • Member since
    September 2011
  • From: Watertown, NY
Posted by JailCop on Friday, November 4, 2011 9:44 PM

Painted the camo on tonight.  Slipped with the brush on the left side, but got it touched up afterwards.  Also put on a coat of future and applied a couple of the delicate finish parts.  Hopefully decals and finishing coats soon!

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Friday, November 4, 2011 10:17 PM

Outstanding work on the cockpit and pilot, Jack.  You have a knack for the details. 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2006
  • From: ON, Canada
Posted by jgeratic on Saturday, November 5, 2011 2:27 AM

Thanks all for those comments - I too am quite satisfied with how the pilot turned out.

Here's a sort of step by step account of how the face was painted:

- airbrushed a desert colour over the whole figure, utilized as both a primer and as a base coat for his face

-once dry I applied a fairly thin wash of raw sienna over the whole of the face, this wash is not as strong as one usually uses, really just want it to bring out details like the lips, brows/eyes, etc.

 -next are applied the highlights, I mix both Andrea's light and dark flesh together on some plastic card(or glass - whatever is handy) as well as a hint of red until i have the desired tone and apply it like one would use the dry brush technique (but with a very small tipped brush), hitting the following areas: forehead, bridge of nose, upper cheeks, small area just below the eyes, chin

-another wash is made of a shade red/brown and is applied only to the cheeks, lower lip and the end of the nose

-for the finer details, I sharpened up some pencil crayons and very carefully drew in eyes and eyebrows with a dk brown, a lighter red brown for a shadow line that extends from the inside corner of eye to cheek and a dk pink shade for his lower lip

-also added some highlights with lighter coloured pencils

-at this point if I feel it needs more contrast, I will repeat any or all of the above steps

regards,
Jack

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Saturday, November 5, 2011 9:55 AM

JailCop, nice looking camouflage application.   Good luck with the decals.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Rothesay, NB Canada
Posted by VanceCrozier on Saturday, November 5, 2011 5:52 PM

Looking good all around gang - and Jack, great job on the pilot. Thanks for the figure how-to as well, definitely one of the benefits of the group build plan. I've moved my Seafire from the stash to the work area, cracked it open & checked out the plastic & AM resin. Looking forward to it but trying to hold off starting until I get a few straggling projects out of the way first!

On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by ww2psycho on Saturday, November 5, 2011 9:34 PM

Question for you folks, whats the best way to sand AFTER primering a model, I seem to get scratch marks that are in the first primer coat and its too deep to just airbrush over. I use water when sanding, highest grit I went was 800, is that not enough?

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Saturday, November 5, 2011 11:15 PM

You might try sanding more between grits.  Check to make sure you've gotten all the scratches out before moving to the next grit.  I know you think you are, but you're not.  Do you reprime afterwards?

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

  • Member since
    December 2009
Posted by ww2psycho on Sunday, November 6, 2011 12:05 AM

Yes, I did reprime. I tried something thinking that the grit wasent smooth enough. I rubbed two 800 grit pieces together so it would soften it up some, and rubbed in circles on the scratch marks. It took awhile to get everything smooth becuase there wasent much sand paper to work with after rubbing them together but I think I got everything out.

  • Member since
    June 2008
Posted by lewbud on Sunday, November 6, 2011 1:38 AM

Next time try starting with a middle grit 400 or so and work your way back up to your finest grit.  Should get the same results only quicker.  Also sand in one direction.  Going in circles is fine for polishing or waxing, but not for sanding scratches out.

Buddy- Those who say there are no stupid questions have never worked in customer service.

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