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The Offical Natural Metal Finish Group Build III

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  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Monday, April 2, 2012 11:43 AM

Gamera

Hey Casper- terrific!!! Cool

 

Ditto

And the Talon strikes again. It so delivers every single time i use it...

Hope you guys like her too. Hope to mask and spray the yellow wings tonightSmile

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Monday, April 2, 2012 10:48 AM

Hey Casper- terrific!!! Cool

 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Hobart, Australia
Posted by Casper the Chihuahua on Monday, April 2, 2012 2:09 AM

A Super Sabre with a super finish! Cool Such a great little kit, these high end Trumpeter 1/72 kits are certainly worth the money and are highly detailed.

I'm happy with the way the Alclad chrome/magnesium/jet exhaust came out. These decals are possibly the best I have ever worked with, settling down into the panel lines beautifully.

Cheers

On the bench: A-4F 1/32 Hasegawa

Just deployed: F6F-5N Hellcat Nightfighter 1/48 Eduard

Up next: A6-E Intruder 1/48 Revell

  • Member since
    November 2003
Posted by halfpint33 on Sunday, April 1, 2012 7:32 AM

Having a hard time getting my canopy masked off.It's a 1/72 F84 tamiya kit.Tried bmf but couldn't hold my hand steady enough to cut the straight linesCrying  Gonna give cutting small strips of tamiya tape a shot.What I get for working in 72nd scale I guessBig Smile Really wanna get this build painted.

  • Member since
    April 2010
Posted by Theuns on Sunday, April 1, 2012 5:08 AM

Since there are two odd months left please sign me up for and old ESCI 1/72 F-104c Starfighter in Bare metal sceeme.

 

Theuns

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Sunday, April 1, 2012 3:53 AM

Casper,

Your trumpy is coming along very nice and i really like your approach with the preshading for the exhausts and various panels. It will be a delight to follow your progress!Yes. Everytime i have tried an extreme high shine finish like chrome it didn't turn out for me this well but that is mostly due to my skills or lack thereofWink Looking great!

As for my trumpy cat....

Assembly was completed yesterday and i have already sprayed and post shaded the green tail. 

I have secured the gun and ammo hatches on the port wing but used microscale's micro liquitape on the starboard ones so i can pose em open once finished. I really love this stuff; just like liquid post it notes in a bottleSmile

For masking off the engine and wheelbays i have used a wet kitchen towel technique which has worked tremendously nice for me in the past.

Next up, and as soon as i finish writing this i am going to take a deep breath and continue on to mask off the tail and preshade the fuselage and wings with thinned black acrylics. Wish me luckWinkYes

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Hobart, Australia
Posted by Casper the Chihuahua on Saturday, March 31, 2012 9:42 PM

I decided to use the Alclad chrome just to make the surface 'pop' a bit. Alclad usually is a darker metallic than standard so I thought at this scale it helps to exaggerate the look of the jet and give it more. I've sprayed the chrome and when fully dry will mask off the rear and lay down the jet exhaust tones.

Cheers

 

On the bench: A-4F 1/32 Hasegawa

Just deployed: F6F-5N Hellcat Nightfighter 1/48 Eduard

Up next: A6-E Intruder 1/48 Revell

  • Member since
    October 2010
  • From: Hobart, Australia
Posted by Casper the Chihuahua on Friday, March 30, 2012 11:21 PM

I've shaded some different panels varying shades of grey to help break up the Alclad when that goes on. The exhaust will be done in Alclad magnesium so the shades should help the look of jet exhaust.

Cheers

On the bench: A-4F 1/32 Hasegawa

Just deployed: F6F-5N Hellcat Nightfighter 1/48 Eduard

Up next: A6-E Intruder 1/48 Revell

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, March 30, 2012 2:59 PM

And oh btw: great job Furyan- those ammo belts look fantastic!

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Friday, March 30, 2012 2:15 PM

I agree with Gamera, you should be able to mask alclad without a problem. It usually comes down to surface prep that went wrong... Personally i always use demakeup pads with a touch of alcohol on them as well as the kind of disposable paper towels to clean your glasses before i hhit the booth with any model.

During assembly you handle the model alot so even with sprues that have been cleansed before commencing a build some grease and stuff will always be on the model if you take it into the booth without any cleaning.

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Friday, March 30, 2012 2:04 PM

B-17: Ouch! Yeah I've seen Alclad do that sometimes. It's rare but it does happen sometimes, I don't think it's much worse for peeling up than regular paint though. Did you wash your model before painting? I think that's my problem so I've tried to be more careful.

Cliff

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by Furyan on Friday, March 30, 2012 2:22 AM

Ok for anyone that may want it in the future heres a 1/32scale profile (308mm long) of the Petie II.  Do what Doogs suggested a few posts back re the blue nose curve, by far the best suggestion Ive read.

 

(expand for printing)

Last build: Tamiya's P-51D Mustang in big 1/32 - Lt Col J C Meyer and his blue nosed bastards. Never forgotten.

   

 

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by Furyan on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 1:55 PM

K sorry forgot to add, filled the wings last night. These may look over board but trust me they are now as smooth as a babies bottoms  =]

 

 

 

 

Last build: Tamiya's P-51D Mustang in big 1/32 - Lt Col J C Meyer and his blue nosed bastards. Never forgotten.

   

 

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by Furyan on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 1:33 PM

B17: Argh... should be easy to fix yeah?  I wait ages for  paint to dry before applying the mask. Never had a prob with Tamiya masking tape. Hope its sorted ok for you =)

 

 

Doogs: Outstanding mate, thanks so much, great idea. Will totally bookmark and print that post out and do what you suggested. Thanks again!

Last build: Tamiya's P-51D Mustang in big 1/32 - Lt Col J C Meyer and his blue nosed bastards. Never forgotten.

   

 

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Frisco, TX
Posted by B17Pilot on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 12:40 PM

I don't know what I did, but pulling up tape to mask for OD anti-glare panel and noticed this when a bit more tape came off than expected

I waited just over 24 hrs before masking that panel.  This is the only one that did this.  Huh?  Thought this stuff was suppose to be tough!

  

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Wednesday, March 28, 2012 8:19 AM

Thanks Doogs, next time I'm in such a situation I'll give this a whirl. Looks lots easier than mucking around with a french curve trying to find the correct shape.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 10:42 PM

Alright, here goes! 

First up - masking the 352nd's blue nose. I agonized over how to do this for some time, so I totally feel your pain!

First - scan or copy/enlarge the profile in the instructions so they're 1/32 scale. Cut out just the nose. Doesn't have to be exact, because the main concern is the curve.

Second - put Tamiya tape on wax paper. Put cut out over Tamiya tape. Tape it down.

Third - with a decent pair of scissors, cut the curve. I've found it's a LOT easier to cut curves with scissors than with xactos.

Fourth - put mask on the plane.

Next - the wing/fuselage thing. Guess I should clarify - next time around I would/will use AS-12 for the wings and Alclad for the fuselage. After the various clears, Alclad Aluminum and Dull Aluminum look similar-ish...I think the lacquered wings need a different tonal quality. Hence the AS-12...

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by Furyan on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 8:54 PM

Awesome, sweet, cheers Doog  Big Smile

Last build: Tamiya's P-51D Mustang in big 1/32 - Lt Col J C Meyer and his blue nosed bastards. Never forgotten.

   

 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 8:43 PM

Furyan

Just need to know how to get the blue nose curve done properly >_<

Yeah I've got a pretty foolproof way to do it - I'll post later this evening after I've got the kids in bed and asleep.

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 8:05 PM

Furyan

yeah Ive filled the panel joins Doogs suggested so I think I might just give the wing tops an extra going over with 1/800 or 1000 grit paper and paint them bare metal silver like the body.

Just need to know how to get the blue nose curve done properly >_<

Ok, duh- looking back Doogs already answered your question- sorry.

As to the nose, you can use a french curve to get the right shape, big problem will be to get both sides symmetrical. You might try tracing it out on a piece of paper and then using the paper to transfer the design to a piece of tape stuck to glass. Then flip the paper to get an opposite piece of tape for the other side of the nose. My two cents anyhow.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by Furyan on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 7:47 PM

yeah Ive filled the panel joins Doogs suggested so I think I might just give the wing tops an extra going over with 1/800 or 1000 grit paper and paint them bare metal silver like the body.

Just need to know how to get the blue nose curve done properly >_<

Last build: Tamiya's P-51D Mustang in big 1/32 - Lt Col J C Meyer and his blue nosed bastards. Never forgotten.

   

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 7:39 PM

Richard: Wow, that was quick! Even if it's not the exact part -looks good to me. And btw nice new avatar Toast

Furyan: I think the aluminum lacquer they painted on the wings would be a little more grey and a little less metallic looking than than the actual aluminum parts of the plane.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by Furyan on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:31 PM

DoogsATX

The wings were aluminum lacquer in real life - so yeah I used a different color (Alclad Dull Aluminum vs. Aluminum and Duraluminum on the fuselage). Next time around, I'm planning to use Tamiya AS-12 on the wings. 

 

Thanks.. hmmm AS-12 is what Tamiya is saying to use on the fuselage, but the wings were a different colour slightly (they say use that item there as well). I might just give the wings an extra coating of darker prep then spray over with the AS12 (bare metal silver). Yeah yours do look a slightly different colour.  Hey also plse tell me the best way to get the curve on the blue nose colour.. did you use masking tape or putty???  Thanks again =)

Kemit: Good stuff, glad you got it sussed.

Last build: Tamiya's P-51D Mustang in big 1/32 - Lt Col J C Meyer and his blue nosed bastards. Never forgotten.

   

 

  • Member since
    June 2009
  • From: Netherlands
Posted by kermit on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:10 PM

Tadaaaa!Big Smile

Ok, pants down time... it is not an early cowling but it fits like a glove and quite frankly given the speed and pricetag i really don't mind it. I am back in the game and happy about that.

Richard

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to another with no loss of enthusiasm." - Sir Winston Churchill

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 2:28 AM

The wings were aluminum lacquer in real life - so yeah I used a different color (Alclad Dull Aluminum vs. Aluminum and Duraluminum on the fuselage). Next time around, I'm planning to use Tamiya AS-12 on the wings. 

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    August 2010
  • From: New Zealand
Posted by Furyan on Tuesday, March 27, 2012 1:42 AM

Hey Doogs.. I have a question; your 1/48 P51 .. did you paint the wings a different colour to the fuselage? If so what colour plse?  I need to find a good bare metal silver for the body but stuffed if I can find a decent different silver for the wings as they were slightly different irl.  What did you do???

Last build: Tamiya's P-51D Mustang in big 1/32 - Lt Col J C Meyer and his blue nosed bastards. Never forgotten.

   

 

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Monterey Bay,CA-Fort Bragg, NC
Posted by randypandy831 on Monday, March 26, 2012 5:05 PM

thanks Doog! 

tamiya 1/48 P-47D $25 + shipping

tamiya 1/48 mosquito $20+ shipping

hobby boss 1/48 F-105G. wings and fuselage cut from sprue. $40+ shipping. 

  • Member since
    June 2010
  • From: Austin, TX
Posted by DoogsATX on Monday, March 26, 2012 1:44 PM

randypandy831

i know for a fact some of you are using alclad. i need a little help. how does the whole decaling process work? do you need to seal it then apply? then seal over the decals?

thanks! 

Get thee some Alclad Klear Kotes - they go down super-thin and are amazing. Work really well over Alclad's NMF or just regular paint. I've been a habitual user of Gloss, Light Sheen, and Matte, and recently added Flat (flatter than matte) to the stable.

On the Bench: 1/32 Trumpeter P-47 | 1/32 Hasegawa Bf 109G | 1/144 Eduard MiG-21MF x2

On Deck:  1/350 HMS Dreadnought

Blog/Completed Builds: doogsmodels.com

 

  • Member since
    September 2009
  • From: Frisco, TX
Posted by B17Pilot on Monday, March 26, 2012 1:26 PM

randypandy831

i know for a fact some of you are using alclad. i need a little help. how does the whole decaling process work? do you need to seal it then apply? then seal over the decals?

thanks! 

Wondering that myself, almost at that point!  Just need one more NMF color and then its the OD anti-glare and blue squadron markings and paints all done!

  

  • Member since
    February 2011
  • From: Monterey Bay,CA-Fort Bragg, NC
Posted by randypandy831 on Monday, March 26, 2012 1:22 PM

i know for a fact some of you are using alclad. i need a little help. how does the whole decaling process work? do you need to seal it then apply? then seal over the decals?

thanks! 

tamiya 1/48 P-47D $25 + shipping

tamiya 1/48 mosquito $20+ shipping

hobby boss 1/48 F-105G. wings and fuselage cut from sprue. $40+ shipping. 

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