Ah ok, Ohio is a little farther to drive  

Didn't even know about Fayetteville Hobby, if they're a good hobby shop I'll check them out next time I drive down that way, Don't know when that will be - I'll probably be going on vacation to the IPMS show in Orlando this year.

Not sure about the decals but those cowling checkers look like a pain to get lined up. There was an article in FSM about five or so years ago on masking and painting them which I really liked but never got around to trying.

Gamera

Randy: Cool photo! That restaurant isn''t near Fort Bragg/ Fayetteville NC is it? If so I might try visiting there next time I run down to Myrtle Beach.

sadly it's not. its in Cleveland,Ohio. right across the air port. 

you ever stop by hayes hobby here in fayetteville? 

and does anyone make these markings for a 48scale? i swear i found a sheet but i forgot.

Randy: Cool photo! That restaurant isn''t near Fort Bragg/ Fayetteville NC is it? If so I might try visiting there next time I run down to Myrtle Beach.

well, after talking with my uncle for awhile i was told his dad flew the jug then switched the the p-38. and, the wedding reception held here. the stang was swapped with another stang due to a storm knocking it out year or two ago. 

Hey Joe,

Sounds good! Will give it a look.

Cliff

Here's my entry.  Should start tonight.

True Details interior and decals for Major Robert S. Johnson's Lucky.

[quote user="Gamera"]

Yeah, that's a slightly think canopy Wonder if you can sand down the rear a little.

Still love those blast tubes, haven't been able to find tubing of that size, I've been looking for syringe needles. Not sure how to convince people I'm looking for model plane machine guns instead of shooting up drugs... 

Gamera - Smallparts.com is an excellent source of hypodermic needle stock.

I have also found this tubing/gun size conversion chart to be extremely helpul:

http//wwwdocstoc.com/docs/11038233/Scale-Gun-Barrel-Chart

                                                             Joe

Yeah, that's a slightly think canopy Wonder if you can sand down the rear a little.

Still love those blast tubes, haven't been able to find tubing of that size, I've been looking for syringe needles. Not sure how to convince people I'm looking for model plane machine guns instead of shooting up drugs... 

DoogsATX

 Anyone know off the top of their head if Falcon makes a vacform for this kit?

Looked on Squadron. They do...as part of a $25 set, of which I have ZERO of the other kits and zero intention of purchasing any of them.

Well, I managed to finish up the Tamiya pit last night. Didn't get pictures since I was waiting for the oil wash to dry out. Should be finishing up the Revell pit hopefully tonight. I can't stand the shoddy molded-in belts so I'm going to be overlaying them with...something. Either strips of Tamiya tape or lead foil, probably.

Progress in other areas...here's what the Master blast tubes are lookin' like:

Also did a test fit of the Revellogram's canopy last night and...holy cow. The fit isn't bad, but talk about out-of-scale thickness!

 Anyone know off the top of their head if Falcon makes a vacform for this kit?

randypandy831

 

 

thanks for the info! i should be at the bench right now but i been busy with school and my dads home from Afghanistan for three weeks so, im spending a lot of time with the family and of course school. so, i'll try n get some modeling done next week. 

Family time trumps bench time, especially in a circumstance like yours where it's compressed into a brief window.

panzerpilot

 

randypandy831:

 

thanks! quick boost makes a 30 conversion but for a 72nd. BOO! and yeah, all hasegawa bubble top kits include the dorsal fin. i might just give tamiya a holler and ask for the dorsal fin off the M kit. 

 

 

Hey. I've got the Tamiya P-47M kit. The sprue you need is "L".

It's got a serial # on it: 61096 and A905819. Parts 12, 13, 14, 18 &19. Hopefully Tamiya will send them to you. There are actually 3 different dorsal fin styles on the sprue (12, 14, 18). Good luck!

thanks for the info! i should be at the bench right now but i been busy with school and my dads home from Afghanistan for three weeks so, im spending a lot of time with the family and of course school. so, i'll try n get some modeling done next week. 

Anyway, here we are:

You can see the problem areas by the white putty. Biggest issues are the leading edge gun covers and the spine antennae area. There was a cavity in the top right wing that I filled with the white putty.

And you can see here the puttied seam on the flaps and the area where the wing fits to the fuselage. In all fairness the Hasegawa kit has issues in the wing fuselage fit too.

Ack, maybe I should have bought both the Promodeler and the Academy and kitbashed them together?

Beyond my bellyaching the Revell kit mostly fits together well. the engine which as I said is hidden under the cowling and you can't see that much of it. You could replace it with aftermarket or one from a Hasegawa or Tamiya kit. Bigger issues are the separate gun covers on the leading edge which I had to really putty and sand to get to fit and the flaps which are molded in two parts giving a big seam right down the middle of them.

Some of the engineering is excellent - even brilliant- other parts have you scratching your head and thinking what the blazes were they thinking??? And as I said the detail is really nicely done, it's been a bear to try not to sand it off though.

Doogs: If you have the kit please don't let me stop you from building it. If anyone doesn't have the kit and is thinking of buying it I would recommend it with reservations.

Gamera

Most of the Monogram kits from the '70s fit better than this. I've heard bad stuff about the Academy P-47N but it can't be much worse.

Dude you've got me questioning why I picked up the Revell -N in addition to the Academy. The Academy has its problems too, just in totally different areas. I will build it one of these days, but now that I've got a Trumpy -N in the stash, if I want a crazywings Jug I'll build the big boy first.

Doogs: That's some sharp work there!

As to the debate- I like Hans and I appeciate what he does but when I come home from work I'm tired and don't feel like beating my head against the wall with a poor fitting kit. I like painting and decaling a lot better than filling and sanding.

BTW: The engine on the Promodeler P-47N is nicely detailed but the front and back plates don't fit at all- about half the cylinders line up and the other half don't. If you rotate the front and back plates so half line up the other half don't. I ended up having to file down half of them because of this, since you can't see the back of the engine it really doesn't show but gee friggin' whiz do they have any quality control at all? Most of the Monogram kits from the '70s fit better than this. I've heard bad stuff about the Academy P-47N but it can't be much worse.

im totally digging your garage find O. i cant wait to get my hands on some alclad.

doogs, im right there with you on the price/value of tamiya kits, the side by side comp points this out very well. also thanks for the tip about using MM paints for a stand in for DDG.

I FINALLY have some pics to share! Man, I love Tamiya's Jug kits, but there's definitely a ramp-up time before things start going together.

First up, engines. One of the reasons I wanted to build the Revellogram and Tamiya kits side-by-side was to explore the points that come up in the endless debates around here. One of the biggest being Tamiya kits costing more/not being worth it. In my opinion the Razorback earns the $30ish it usually goes for, and totally earns the $20 I paid for this particular kit. And a big part of that is the extent of detail. The Tamiya R-2800 isn't a Quickboost or Vector piece, but it's detailed enough considering how packed into the cowl it will be. 

The Revellogram example, on the other hand...eesh. Monogram did some pretty bang-up engines back in the day. This is not one of them. Detail is shallow, cramped, not enough room to add detail. If I wanted to go crazy, I guess I could go with a Vector R-2800, scratch the intake framing, and pray. But I don't want to go crazy on this build.

Next - the Tamiya cockpit. Still working on the Revellogram, but it makes me sad (the other major drawback aside from the engine). Painted this one up in MM Euro Dark Green to stand in for DDG. Drybrushed with MM Dunkelgrau and touches of Floquil Old Silver here and there. The instructions called for the control stick boot to be painted Buff, so I used a Vallejo equivalent, though none of my references show a P-47 with a stick boot. Seat is Ultracast, PE bits out of Eduard's excellent P-47 placards set. 

I still have some details to pick out, need to add the lever handle to the throttle quadrant, and need to dirty things up with a thin oil wash. But getting close...

Nice job on the Jug, O! I swear the more I mess with and see others mess with Alclad, the more I like the stuff. I'm actually pondering using the salt chipping technique on Magic Carpet's NMF wings to see if I can't introduce some micro variations in the finish (if you look at a lot of wartime P-47s up close, the wings and especially the leading edge and wingroot look pretty nasty, particularly in NMF).

Hey super job O!

NM looks spot on, and the decals look perfect to me now. And nice job on the waste gate- I didn't know what it was either

panzerpilot,

Alclad White Aluminum was sprayed over Alclad white microfiller primer.  White Aluminum was sprayed over the entire airframe.  Once that was dried, I used a couple of different techniques to get the look I was after.  One thing I did was pre-shade the panels with Testors Gloss Black in the little square bottle.  Once that was dried, I toned it down with White Aluminum again.  One the fuselage, I post-shaded some panels with different shades of White Aluminum, darkened with different amounts of Alclad Steel.  In some spots, I sprayed very thin coats of straight Steel.  Again, it was all trial and error.  Like I said, this is a "practice" kit.

John,

Good info on that "pipe."  Great thing about these boards is how much info you can gain from those in the know.

Cheers!

-O

Nice, O.  That pipe technically is a wastegate, its a little shorter and there is a butterfly valve in there.  It opens when the turbo is producing the boost pressure the pilot has selected, controlled automatically.

Hey O, That looks really sharp. What did you pre-shade the Alclad with?

Hey Jug fans,

With the holidays came some time off, so I was able to get in some bench time.  It came in small bunches, but I was still able to make some progress.  Unfortunately, family commitments came too so I wasn't able to take a lot of in progress pix.  Regardless, let me show you where I'm at.

My last posts showed the completed cowl and engine.  My faux pas was to shoot MM Dull Coat straight onto the Alclad without "sealing" it first.  The result was a nice weathered look, but it made the decal's carrier film super obvious.  Since then, I was able to get the fuselage painted, the decals laid on, and most of the fiddly bits attached.

Here's where it's at:  

Before attaching the nose end to the fuse, I redid the vents behind the cowling.  I'm really pleased with the way they came out.  They're made from soda can aluminum, and the exhaust pipe is shaped styrene rod.

Here are some close-ups:

In the last pic, you can see the changes I made to the belly tank attachment.  No, it's not 100% accurate, but it looks 100 times better than the kit's molded attachment points.

Anyway, this thing's going together faster than I thought.  Since this kit was a "bonus find," I'm not super-worried about a perfect build.  I'm using it more as a test bed for some of the painting and building techniques I plan on using on later NMF planes.

Thanks for looking!  Comments and criticisms welcome.  Feel free to drop you two cents in the bucket on your way out. 

Cheers!

-O

I like what I see Joe!

Nice to see everyone making progress. My N is together, I had to use a ton of putty, it's going to be a bear to get it all sanded down and buffed out for the NM.

Lookin' good, Joe! 

My cockpits are coming together...everything painted DDG, various panels picked out with Vallejo Black Grey, harnesses painted, drybrushing mostly done. The IP decal went on the Tamiya IP last night...not as clean as the bubbletop but it'll certainly do. The bit of silvering beneath the gauges themselves actually works to an advantage I think, giving them some contrast to the surrounding panel.

Still have to dull the IPs, gloss the gauges, and apply some washes and maybe some pigments (Magic Carpet was operating from Y-29 in January '45 - very primitive conditions with snow and mud on the ground, have to imagine some of that got tracked in!). 

Elsewhere, the R-2800s are coming along and the props are about ready for their stencil data. I've been working with Hamilton Standard props so often that I was kind of surprised the C.E. blades don't sport logos.

randypandy831

thanks! quick boost makes a 30 conversion but for a 72nd. BOO! and yeah, all hasegawa bubble top kits include the dorsal fin. i might just give tamiya a holler and ask for the dorsal fin off the M kit. 

Hey. I've got the Tamiya P-47M kit. The sprue you need is "L".

It's got a serial # on it: 61096 and A905819. Parts 12, 13, 14, 18 &19. Hopefully Tamiya will send them to you. There are actually 3 different dorsal fin styles on the sprue (12, 14, 18). Good luck!

Here's some pics of my efforts. They are certainly not the best but it will give you a general idea of what I came up with. Again, the color may be a bit dark but once I weather it a bit I believe it'll look quite nice.

 Well, my attempts at mixing a DDG have met with some degree of success. In doing so I took a unique approach and utilized a resource I had available. As I stated before I work in an Ace Hardware store and thus mix house paint. So, I perused our color sample chips and picked out a couple of samples that I thought might get me in the ballpark of the DDG I had color photos of. We have a paint scanner which we can use to scan a color and produce a formula for yet, the photos do not provide a consistent patch with which to scan. Anyway, I found a color that was quite close and then called up the formula to see what colors to use and in what proportions. The color formula for the swatch I picked came out with the following: Approx. 40% Green, 30% Black and 30% Brown. My next challenge was to find paints in my stash that were close to the colorants in our mixing machine. These are what I came up with in Tamiya Acylics: XF-11 IJN Green, XF-1 Flat Black and X-9 Brown. Keeping in mind that these colors are added to a can of white base so I knew my initial mix was going to come out dark and would require adding white to lifgten it up. Indeed this was the case once I had whipped up the initial batch. I also had to keep adding more IJN Green to get me even closer. I was close yet not quite there as I needed something else and that ended up being a shot of X-4 Blue to give me that slight Blue-Green tint I saw in the photo. In the end I'm really not sure what the exact ratios are but it came out as close as I could using the photos. Thusly, I sprayed the cockpit yesterday and I am pleased with the results. I'll get some pics ASAP. Bottom line was that it was fun and interesting.

 So, just a hint that if you have a color sample you would like to match, say out of a reference book or what, try taking it down to your local hardware store or paint shop and have them scan it for a formula. 

                                                                Joe

Wish I had pics to put up, but I don't feel I'm there quite yet. Seems like there's a lot of pre-work that needs to go into these Jugs!

As of tonight, I've got a bunch of pieces primed. Gear doors, etc painted in yellow chromate. The cockpits have been done in Euro Dark Green standing in for DDG. Harnesses painted onto the seats, prop tips yellow, prop cap for "Magic Carpet". Weird thing is...when I did "Hairless Joe" last year, I had to use Deep Yellow as MM's Insignia Yellow was far too light. This time around, IY was the ticket. Guess maybe the 56th's extensive use of RAF paint extended even to yellow for squadron colors and tail numbers...

Hopefully pics tomorrow...