GAF

Gamera,

She does look good in an office setting.   Congrats on a great build.  You even have the guns numbered.

I haven't done much.  I'm trying to get a project done at work, gather up forms and bills for my taxes, and take care of things such as laundry and groceries.  I did decide to strip the paint from the cowl on the Bubbletop, and I have most of it off.  Then I will re-spray the cowl with primer.  After that, I'm not sure.

I may go ahead and paint her NMF, then work on the cowl.  I may try making a decal for her instead of painting.  After that mess-up, I'm leery of attempting another oddly shaped paint job.  We'll see.  Work continues on the Razorback at least.  I've about got the IP finished, and have the gunsight glued on to its back.  I'm waiting for it to dry, and then I need to fit it into the cockpit and fuselage, as I will have to cut out a portion of the front decking to fit the sight through.

Greentracker:  Can't help you on the smoke question as I don't have an airbrush.  I would probably do any shading like that using charcoal and a brush.

Should get the package out in the mail tomorrow.

Gary

Thanks Gary.

What's this about charcoal? I haven't tried anymore on the xhaust soot etc I was working on other things on the jug.

Gamera - I agree thats one fine job you did on your jug.

I think I figured the charcoal bit out. I still have a few charcoal briquets left over from last summer My Jug is pretty dirty now, especially underneath LOL Sorry about no pics tonight. I'll take  a few tomorrow.

Thanks guys! Nice to finally get one done!

Gary: Not sure if I said it here or elsewhere but on the yellow stripe off the cowling I masked it off with Tamiya tape and then sprayed a little Future right at the mask. It seals the mask and keeps the paint from getting under it. Since the Future is clear the overspray from it is invisible.

Ken: I've never tried charcoal but I suppose you could grind it up and apply it like pastels. Please let us know how it goes.

Here are pics with the charcoal What do you all think?

There is a little bit of Flat black paint in the exhaust stain.This looks alot darker in person than it shows here

Gamera - What are the pastels you mentioned? is it chalk?

Hey Ken, hate to say this but it's kinda hard for me to see. I can see it in the middle photos somewhat, you maybe could build it up just a little maybe?

I not that great as a Photographer. Hope these are better. I know its hard to see, But I think it will be too much if I add more "dirt" to it

Hey There Guys, Thought I had better check in on you all.

Cliff - My Gawd! Awesome job you have done there. I really like the panel effect you achieved as well as the magnificent masking for the cowling job. Just an obs though and that is that your belly tank looks a might off kilter.

Greentracker - That is definitely an interesting effect you got there. I was just wondering though that if by charcoal it was meant to be Artist Charcoal, which you can get at an art store.

Overall great stuff going on here. When I get through the Spring yard cleaning/ Family visiting cycle here I hope that I might finally get an oppurtunity to start stripping "Nifty" and join in with you all.

Joe

Well, I've got my taxes done and will be getting some money back, which is a relief.  I thought for sure I would be paying even more this year.  I can buy more models now! 

Ken:  I'm not sure about using charcoal for "weathering" overall.  I've never tried it on an aircraft model.  It was a technique we used on wargaming miniatures for grime and dirt, and blast effects, but it's been a while back (20 years), and I believe we used a damp brush and 'artist' charcoal, not the stuff you use in your cooker.  And you have to spray coat it after finishing (the normal finish coat on the model is fine) or it will certainly just come right off.  The dry stuff will get everywhere.  Keep a damp cloth handy, and you can remove it by washing.  I was thinking more of engines and gun smudges when I suggested it.  Sorry if I've mislead you, but it's an interesting experiment. Artist pastels can be bought at the local craft store in various colors.

On a brighter note, the package is in the mail. 

Gamera:  Yes, thanks for the tip on using future to seal the masking tape.  I'll try that next time.  At the moment, the cowl is being stripped clean and is going to be re-primed.  After that, I think I will put the NMF on and try spraying on top of that (or decaling, I'm not sure yet).

On another note, after leaving the tax preparer's office, I dropped by Hobby Lobby with a 40% off coupon to see what I could find.  I actually picked up a few odds and ends.  They have a nice selection of models, as long as its Revell/Monogram you're looking for.  I wanted to get something, but I have most of them.  It was a toss-up between the P-47N, and the F-4C.  The P-47N won out, though I realize I'm just buying myself another headache.  I'll just stick it in the closet with the other headaches.  At my build rate, it might get done by the time I retire.

I'll probably save my real model buying until I go to ModelMania in Houston next month.  Maybe I'll find something there.

Gary

GAF

Well, I've got my taxes done and will be getting some money back, which is a relief.  I thought for sure I would be paying even more this year.  I can buy more models now! 

Ken:  I'm not sure about using charcoal for "weathering" overall.  I've never tried it on an aircraft model.  It was a technique we used on wargaming miniatures for grime and dirt, and blast effects, but it's been a while back (20 years), and I believe we used a damp brush and 'artist' charcoal, not the stuff you use in your cooker.  And you have to spray coat it after finishing (the normal finish coat on the model is fine) or it will certainly just come right off.  The dry stuff will get everywhere.  Keep a damp cloth handy, and you can remove it by washing.  I was thinking more of engines and gun smudges when I suggested it.  Sorry if I've mislead you, but it's an interesting experiment. Artist pastels can be bought at the local craft store in various colors.

On a brighter note, the package is in the mail. 

 

Gary

GAF - Good deal on your taxes.

I understand about artist charcoal now, but I don't feel you mislead me. So, no worries there Gary. Actually, I kind of like the effect "cooker" charcoal has on my razorback. As for it coming off, It seems to have stained the paint, espcially the neutral gray. I could be wrong, so we'll see what happens to it over time. The worse part was scraping the charcoal. I never realized how hard that stuff is!

Many Thanks on the "package". I'll be watching for it.  Like i said, If I can help you somtime, just say the word.

Ken

Ken

Joe: Thanks! And yeah I've been having bunches of trouble keeping drop tanks straight, the last P-47 I build it was even worse. I think the next one I build I'll leave the bleeping thing off!!!

Going back to readjust it again!!!

Ken: It doesn't look too bad but I suspect you'll have better luck with the artist charcoal, I figure it will give you a little more control and go on thicker.

Gary: Congrads on getting your taxes out of the way, I did mine about a month ago, I hate the whole mess. I assume you picked up the Revell Promoldeler P-47N? My last P-47 was this kit, it's floating around here somewhere. Decent kit though next time I do an 'N' I think I'll go with the Academy kit!

Hey Ken, If nothing else I hope the brats were delicious. Oh, and by the way the charcoals are easier to scrape when they're not still hot.

JOE RIX

Hey Ken, If nothing else I hope the brats were delicious. Oh, and by the way the charcoals are easier to scrape when they're not still hot.

LOL Darn I thought it would be easier that way

Yep they were quite tasty LOL

Another minor update on the "Double Ds".

The weekend was rainy, so I didn't get any painting outside done.  This evening I finished re-priming the Bubbletop cowl, so I can shade that and then do the NMF.  Wondering how that will turn out.  I need to hurry as the weather is beginning to warm up and that means high humidity and no painting outside.

So I got the cockpit finished up and installed, along with some detailing done.

I've opened up the shell ejection slots on the wings and started on the gun barrel replacements.  The fuselage is together (barely).  It took a bit of Tenax to get it that way.

If you look closely, you can see the gun-sight just above the IP, and the top of the pilot's head, who is undergoing painting.  He's a little over-dressed for the Pacific. 

Also, I've got the side vents opened.  Things are beginning to come together, however slowly.

Gamera:  Well, the box on the P-47N does NOT say "Promodeller" on it, so I assume it's merely the normal kit.  Like I said, not much of a selection.

Thanks for looking!

Gary

Gary: Cockpit looks good! And nice work reaming out those vents. Hmmmm, thought the kit said Promodeler on it, maybe it didn't - darned if I know!

Yea, Your cockpit is looking good Gary. I'm half afraid to try the vents, so, I haven't touched them. Maybe I'll try it on the bubbletop?? LOL  I'm trying to finish up the razorback before I start anything new. We're supposed to have something new done for our next (local) model club meeting. I told them I'd finish the Camaro, but I just can't get into it right now. It couldn't have anything to do with the "Big Beautiful Jugs, could it? (heavy sarcasm) LOL  I also have to do the Carlisle semi triaxle van trailer for the Automobile GB

here are the latest pics

Hey Ken, She's looking really good.

Thanks Joe, Yea I think it might just turn out okay.

Alll thats left to do is a few more decals, Touch up a couple of places and a clear coat

Cool Ken, she looks great!

I thought I had better check in, just to let you know I'm still working on the Double Ds.  I have to admit there doesn't seem to be much progress, but things have come together at last.  As you can see, the Razorback is finally together, the guns installed and all that's left is to prime her and then lay on the olive drab.  The bubbletop is ready for NMF, and I hope to get that done either Friday or this weekend (depending on the weather).  I hope it's smooth sailing from here on!  I am going to have to find some tear-drop tanks for the wings.  I think I have a pair for the old Hawk P-51 in the cardboard box.  Or maybe there's some in the Tamiya p-51D box.  I'll have to check.  Oh, and the silver oval on the wing is the air intake.  It will look better after I've primed and finished detailing.

I still need to do the decals for the bubbletop.  I have plenty of insignia, but the lettering for "My Baby" still needs to be done.  I haven't decided on what I'm going to do about the cowl. After the last episode of paint running under the masking tape, I'm leery of going that route again.  I can certainly produce a decal for the cowl if I have to.

Ken:  That Razorback is looking good!  Not much longer till she's done it appears.  Nice job!  And about those vents... you shouldn't have to open them on the Tamiya kit.  They should already be that way!  Oh, and good luck with getting something new for the club meeting.

Joe:  Hope that yard work clears up. 

Gamera - Thanks

Gary - Thanks, Yours are looking good too.

Now I'm just waiting on decals. If you can't find the tear - drop tanks, I didn't use the 2 that came with  the P 38 and there are 2 with the bubble top. Let me know. You can have them if you need them.

I started painting the little pieces for the bubbletop last night. I'll post some pics when I get more done. I think the "Bubble-Top" is going to spoil me. LOL Thanks again

What are you going to use for the NMF? Everyone says the P 38 looks good, but to me, it seems off and I'm not sure what to use. Right now, I'm thinking Bare Metal Foil Aluminin.

The "something new" for the club meeting is the razorback. I'll take it even if it isn't completley finished. He only shipped the decals yesterday the 9th.

Ken

Decals came today Thank God Pics later

Ken:  Decals!  Yeah!  Sounds like you're on your way to "Get 'er Done!"  Waiting for the pics. 

The drop tanks are okay.  I robbed the Tamiya P-51D for a couple, so I'm set.  As for what I'm using for the NMF on the bubbletop, it appears to be Tamiya "Gloss Aluminum".  I have a couple of other Testor's spray cans (including an "Aluminum Plate (Buffing Metalizer)" that I am afraid to touch), but this one might be the best.  However, I don't know how glossy it will be after spraying over grey primer.  You have a much better selection than I do with an airbrush, so I can't advise you on what to try.

So both Ds are ready for their coats.  I think I will use the semi-gloss grey primer as the base on the razorback, and just over-spray the olive drab on it.  The color is so close to neutral gray that it won't be noticeable.  Meanwhile, I've Future coated my canopies, painted the aux tanks and got the tear-drop tanks together and ready to be primed.  This weekend should (I hope) see some real progress.

Take care!

Gary

Hey Ken and Gary, you guys are doing an excellent job on your Jugs. Really nice work.

Ken, As far as an NMF Alclad really is some amazing stuff despite my issues. You really should give it a try. Also Tamiya Aluminum works well also.

JOE RIX

Hey Ken and Gary, you guys are doing an excellent job on your Jugs. Really nice work.

Ken, As far as an NMF Alclad really is some amazing stuff despite my issues. You really should give it a try. Also Tamiya Aluminum works well also.

Joe - Thanks

 I'm looking into the alclad and I think I'm going to give it a try (again) I seen a video on You Tube once on the chrome and the guy said you only need 1 or 2 coats after that you loose the shine. Is all the alclad that way? I treid to do a chrome Pennzoil Tanker trailer and put too much on it and it only looks like a flat aluminin.

Gary - Okay, if I can help just say the word

Guys, The company that made the decals I just got is called Tech Mod, out of Poland. Now,I don't know if all their decals are like the ones I got, but I had a lot trouble them. I just sent an email to the people who sold them to me. Any way if they weren't in the right position within 5 seconds (literally) they would stick and not move without tearing them. I'll let you all know what happens. Just a word of warning here.

Here a few pics, I still need to touch it up and give it a clear coat, but its essentially done. When i get the clear coat, I'll take a couple more pics. I don't know what they will do about the decals. Maybe he will send new ones. We'll see Anyway here the pics

Ken - Excellent job. You've done some really nice work. I hope you're OK with some pointers on your build. The most glaring thing that stuck out to me is that you neglected to take off the seam on your tires. On your next build you'll want to sand those smooth. Or maybe invest in some AM ones from True Details or Ultracast. Especially if there is a tread pattern involved as those are very difficult to sand the seam out on without ruining the detail. For me, a set of resin wheels is often one of the first AM parts I get. I find that realistic wheels that nicely detailed really make a model stand out. I tell you, if you want to find boo boos in your workmanship just take a photo of it and it will usually stick out like a sore thumb.

Sorry to hear about the Tech Mod decals. I have not personally used them. Hopefully they respond in some positive manner.

JOE RIX

Ken - Excellent job. You've done some really nice work. I hope you're OK with some pointers on your build. The most glaring thing that stuck out to me is that you neglected to take off the seam on your tires. On your next build you'll want to sand those smooth. Or maybe invest in some AM ones from True Details or Ultracast. Especially if there is a tread pattern involved as those are very difficult to sand the seam out on without ruining the detail. For me, a set of resin wheels is often one of the first AM parts I get. I find that realistic wheels that nicely detailed really make a model stand out. I tell you, if you want to find boo boos in your workmanship just take a photo of it and it will usually stick out like a sore thumb.

Sorry to hear about the Tech Mod decals. I have not personally used them. Hopefully they respond in some positive manner.

I Welcome any pointers that anyone cares to give me. I missed the seam on the tires because I was too concerned about they rest of it. Thank you. I Admit it, I am human and I mistakes like everyone else. But I'll try to take care of that tonight.

Now,. I'm off with my jug to my local model club meeting. I'll let you know if anyone says anything about it and the tires. If anyone says anything it will be Vince the Vice president LOL. but he's okay hes always making snide remarks about something. LOL I figure if he didn't he don't like me.

Had to take a break from spray painting and cleaning to check the forums...

Ken:  Nice one.  She finished up pretty, even with the decal trouble.  And I wouldn't worry about the tires (says the guy who bought aftermarket resin wheels so he wouldn't have to deal with them on the razorback).  Looking at my two Jugs I can see things I already know are mistakes, but it's just too much trouble to correct.  It's a Revell model for cryin' out loud!  They're SUPPOSED to have mistakes!    I'm just glad I can still glue them together at my age.

And hope things go well at the club meeting!  Modelers can be a vicious bunch... 

Thank goodness I found some silly putty! (For masking... I don't play with the stuff... Honest!

PS>  Just put the first coat of Tamiya "Gloss Aluminum" onto the bubbletop and it looks pretty good over the grey primer, giving just that dull metal look I was hoping for.  The pre-shading pretty much disappears, however.  As an experiment, my pre-shading needs some work.  Probably would be better on something other than a NMF.

Gary