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Twin Boom Group Build 2013

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  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Friday, March 8, 2013 12:16 AM

TREYZX10R

Finally broke this Bronco in!

cheers Trey

Looks great Trey.  Nice photography too.

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Friday, March 8, 2013 12:52 AM

shivinigh

wow everyone's builds are looking incredible. I finished the base and figures for mine and wish to thank Bish for his input on doing my figures. Well here is the end result

unfortunately my skill in doing figures is really weak, but have lots of subjects to practice on.

Very nice work!  I struggle with 1/48 scale figures and can't imagine how hard they would be to do in 1/72 scale.  Again, nice job. 

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Friday, March 8, 2013 9:30 PM

Thanks Joe,much appreciated!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, March 9, 2013 4:45 AM

I haven't forgotten about this GB, i just keep forgetting to check into the ones i am not currently building for, but really need to make more time for those threads. Some gret work coming along, keep it going guys.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Saturday, March 9, 2013 11:47 AM

Bish its all good,so many g/bs so little time! Hard to keep in touch with all the g/bs and threads going and still have time to build!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, March 9, 2013 11:53 AM

Tell me about it. I am already 2 weeks behind where i had hoped to be. Trying to get ahead so i can leave myself plenty of time for the He 111. I am aiming at an early July start.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Oil City, PA
Posted by greentracker98 on Saturday, March 9, 2013 9:08 PM

P 38 is finished

A.K.A. Ken                Making Modeling Great Again

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Saturday, March 9, 2013 10:56 PM

Ken it looks fine! I can use this photo for the front page unless you want to post up a few others? Would really like to see some more pics of it!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, March 10, 2013 4:42 AM

Great build Ken, really nice work.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    October 2008
Posted by eatthis on Sunday, March 10, 2013 10:19 AM

would a tripleboom be eligable?

 

snow + 4wd + escessive hp = :)  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7egUIS70YM

  • Member since
    April 2003
Posted by shivinigh on Sunday, March 10, 2013 11:39 AM

Really nice job on the Lightning

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Oil City, PA
Posted by greentracker98 on Sunday, March 10, 2013 3:31 PM

Trey - Thanks this photo is good. I think its about the best. Thanks

Bish - Thanks

It's not my best work. So I'll leave it at that LOL

A.K.A. Ken                Making Modeling Great Again

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Monday, March 11, 2013 3:19 PM

Eathis sure a muliple boom of any kind is welcome!

Okay Ken I'll put that one up,do'nt be so hard on yourself thats a really difficult kit to begin with!

  • Member since
    October 2009
  • From: Oil City, PA
Posted by greentracker98 on Monday, March 11, 2013 4:40 PM

Thanks Trey, I didn't think it a difficult kit, I thought it was me. But some of it was me. However, I'm going to do it over, Next time it will be an academy 1 48 kit.

A.K.A. Ken                Making Modeling Great Again

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Thursday, March 21, 2013 1:17 AM

Looks great Ken. I too would like to see more. 

Hello all.  I'm ready to throw my hat in this ring since I just started the 1/48 Hasegawa P-38 J.  I built the Pro Modeler (Hasegawa mold) G last year (Rex Barber's mount...elsewhere on the forum) so I have an pretty good idea how to tackle this thing.  I'm also hoping that this build will inspire others to try this kit, which really isn't that diificult if you have patience and take your time.  Hopefully I can avoid the mistakes I made last time (as I remember them) and I will point them out as I go

 I'm still up in the air on the markings.  I want to add a European P-38 to my collection, so i'm considering either Robin Olds 479th FG plane with the full invasion stripes or Col. Meyers "Bobcat" from the 20 FG, both in drab.  This will be my first endeavor at using Gunze Aqueous Olive Drab.  It should be a treat if it behaves anything like their RLM colors.  I'm adding a True Details pit and wheels which I had in the resin stash.  I also picked up a set of Quickboost gun barrels.  I used these on Barber's G and they looked great.  

I started with the True Details Cockpit.  Its definitely an improvement over the kit parts.  I like TD because they are nicely detailed and cheap.  Truthfully I don't know how Aires stays in business while TD is around.  Maybe I'm just a cheapskate.  Anyways, It took me about an hour just to saw the pour stub off the bottom of the pit (lot of cussing).  Once done removing all the stubs, I began test fitting the pit to the plane. 

I recall an issue I had on the G with the back glass canopy not fitting right over the headrest.  I was able to get the pit to fit beautifully, but once it came time to attach the canopies, the armor plate top prevented the canopy from sitting properly.  I had to unfortunately shave off quite a bit of the head rest to fix this.  This time around I test fitted the pit with the glass taped in place and carved plastic and resin until everything fit as intended (darn resin). 

Once I was satisfied that all would fit properly, I commenced to painting the cockpit and instrument panel were painted in XF1 Flat Black.  The pit was then painted with Gunze Aqueous Interior Green.   I then pick out the various boxes with XF-69 Nato Black.  I painted the O2 hose XF-61 Deep Green and the seat belts XF-57 Buff mixed with XF-49 Khaki.  Silver details were picked out with a silver Sharpie.  I added some red and yellow on various buttons to add interest.  I then drybrushed everything with Floquil Old Silver.  Once done, it was sprayed with Testor's Gloss coat and after about an hour, it was washed with "The Detailer" wash.  A quick blast with Testor's Dull coat and it was done.  Heres how it turned out.

It was now time to assemble the cockpit and add it to the upper fuselage/pod half.  After another test fit to make sure everything fit, I super-glued it in place.  The P-38 is a tail sitter so you can either use the kit provided clear rod to prop the tail  up, or weight is needed in the nose.  I opted for the latter  and used a fishing weight epoxied into the roof of the gun chamber. 

.....and here's how it looks from the top.  I went ahead and painted the cavass coaming above the instrument panel too.  I went with XF-49 Khaki mixed with XF-51 Khaki Drab.  I then added a bit of XF-2 Flat White and drybrushed it to sort of simulate the fabric.  I've ready these coamings were usually removed on operation aircraft, but I due to all the sanding cutting and scaping up to this point, I decided not to torture myself any futher.  Besides, my arm was still tired from all that pour stub sawing.............lol 

 Soon I will close up the fuselage pod and start on the landing gear bays. 

Joe

  

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Thursday, March 21, 2013 7:31 PM

Joe WOW! That office looks stunning,one of the best I've seen! Really zipping along on this build,very nice! I too like the TD resin for the most part they put out quality stuff!

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, March 22, 2013 3:19 AM

Joe, great start. The pit is looking good. You set a high standard with your 190, so i'm expecting more of the same Wink

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    October 2008
Posted by eatthis on Friday, March 22, 2013 7:21 PM

im making a twin boom tri engined escort spitfire for a what if gb heres where im at




im trying to find some cheap contraprops for it and i might use griffon engines just for silly hp

 

snow + 4wd + escessive hp = :)  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7egUIS70YM

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Friday, March 22, 2013 7:52 PM

Eatthis welcome to the g/b! That is a very cool concept ,like what you've got going on! I'll add you to the roster,thats 1/72 scale correct?

  • Member since
    October 2008
Posted by eatthis on Friday, March 22, 2013 8:00 PM

yeh 72 scale made from 4 kits lol

 

snow + 4wd + escessive hp = :)  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7egUIS70YM

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Saturday, March 30, 2013 2:47 AM

Greetings all.  I'm slowly but surely moving along on this turkey.  I got the landing gear and doors painted.  I really wasn't sure what colors to paint the doors and bays.  The general consensus seems that they were either Aluminum on NMF planes or sprayed Neutral Grey on OD over NG subjects.  I went with Neutral Grey (XF-53).  I did lighten it up a bit for scale using Flat White (XF-2).  I then weathered them with a diluted mixture of NATO Black XF-69 and Red Brown XF-64.  This technique creates shadows and the illusion of dirt.  

Onward towards construction.  Lets face it, there's really no easy way to build this airframe.  Alot of it is just Kelly's Johnson's unique design.  That aside, the fit is just downright bad in certain areas, most notably where the booms meet the upper wing by the supercharger and the seams on the side of the gun access panels to the wing root.  I can only compare the latter it to assembling the engine nacelles on the Monogram B-17 (for those who've built that).  That said though, if you dry-fit, do a little chopping here and filling there, alot of the issues can be dealt with.  Here's how I did it:

1.  First I closed the pilot/gun center pod and sealed it with Tenax, my glue of choice.  Sorry, but I forgot to take pictures of this process here but I'll explain it thoroughly. Its pretty much modeling 101.  The pod closes like a clamshell with a seam that starts at the nose and goes all the way through to the wingroot.  The resulting seem here is pretty bad and will need alot of sanding and filling.  Once all glue was dry, preferably overnight, I masked off as much detail as possible then used 180 grit paper in the seam.  I like Tamiya's sandpaper.  This is a nice course grit and evens things out quickly. Follow it with 320 grit which starts to smooth it out (2.  I then run over the seam with a silver Sharpie.  This works like a charm and reveals any seam issues.  Actually, I use this trick on all my builds.  I then fix gaps or holes with super and accelerator. Then sand flush.  Repeat as necessary.

3  Once satisfied, I rescribed any lost detail.  On this guy, I ended up rescribing the gun access panels because they were fairly soft anyways.    

Its now time assemble the booms and add the "J" version inserts.  Just like Hasegawa P-40 series, the plugs dont fall on panel lines so there was alot of sanding and filling. It was just a matter of "precision" sanding using the above process.  The panel lines on belly of the engines were soft too and needed rescribed.  I then added the gear bay guts and then attach the booms to the pod. 

Now for some pictures.  This is what it looks like from the top and where most of the boom alighment problems start. 

Now...I'm convinced the green circled area is where the fit problems start.  The piece indicated by the red arrow in the second picture seems to be the main culprit. 

  

The remedy?  Well, I just sanded out as much of this plastic as I could then chopped off the plastic indicated by the red arrow (both sides of boom) with an Exacto knife.  Now the booms sat as intended.  Don't get me wrong, the area will still need lots of the above outlined sanding and some rescribing, (4 hours worth to give an estimate) but at least the crooked boom problem will be solved. 

The rest of it went together in typical Hasegawa fashion.  I'm gonna check my seams with primer, fix any flaws, then get ready for preshading and paint.  I suppose I better decide on a scheme soon. 

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: Charleston, SC
Posted by sanderson_91 on Saturday, March 30, 2013 9:21 AM

Lawdog,

Very nice work on the P-38.  This kit builds up really nice but does take some to get everything to line up.  Looks like you nailed this one!  I've followed your painting techniques on your last few builds and plan on trying your technique myself.  Can't wait to see paint pics!  

Steve

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2009
  • From: Borlando Fla home of the rat
Posted by TREYZX10R on Sunday, March 31, 2013 7:33 PM

Looking AWESOME Lawdog!!!!

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Wednesday, April 3, 2013 11:12 PM

Hello folks. I'm in for a little update.  Over the last few days I got the airframe to the "good enough" stage, which consisted of rescribing a few lines here and adding some rivets there.  I think I'm reasonably happy with it now.  Unfortunately, "good enough" is pretty much as good as it gets with the Hasegawa P-38.  I decided on Robin Olds "Scat II" from the 479th FG for two reasons.  First, I was intrigued by the challenge of putting full invasion stripes on the P-38.  Second, I have yet to add a plane with full invasion to my collection, so its time.    

I started by preshading all the panel lines with Flat Black (XF-1).  I then sprayed the area where the stripes would go with Flat White (XF-2).  Since there will be alot of taping, I cut this with Tamiya Lacquer thinner for extra bite. 

My research concluded that the stripes on twin engine fighters were supposed to be 24 inches wide.  I estimated this translated to just over a 1/4 inch in 1/48 scale (not my area of expertise).  I taped this off on my little steel ruler.  Using my trusty Tamiya tape sliced into thin strips and the decal sheet diagram as a reference.  I taped off the white stripes and checked the width(s) with the ruler as I went.  I then filled it in leaving the area to be pained black exposed.  Its not perfect, but they were far from perfect on the real aircraft.  A word on the "Kits World Warbird" decals....what a jip! (ok three words).  For 13.00 bones we get limited stencils and no insignias?  These better perform flawlessly.....13.00?....get real!

I then sprayed the black stripes with Flat Black (XF-1).  For this I cut the black with 91% Isoprophyl since it dries almost immediately on contact which allieviates the possibility of bleed under.  Try it...it works.  These were then taped off.  The rudders were sprayed XF-7 Flat Red and taped off. 

It was now time for the Neutral Grey bottom.  I took XF-53 Neutral Grey and added a bit of XF-2 Flat White for scale (Tamiya's Neutral Grey just seems a bit dark to me).  I then lightened it more and added condensation streaks along the bottom from front to back.  I use low pressue and high speed. 

Once I was satisfied with the effect, I went back with a dilluted mixture of XF-69 NATO Black and XF-64 Red Brown and highlighted some panel lines.  This is done now then it will be done again later to add depth to the paint. 

The Olive Drab upper surface is next......Stay tuned. 

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Friday, April 5, 2013 3:03 AM

I managed to get more done this morning.  Sometimes once I get going on something...I can't stop (like eating a bucket of the Colonel's original recipe...thats another matter).  I used Blue Tac rolled up into worms to mask off the demarcation lines.  This stuff works great for this task and leaves a nice feathered edge.  Since the diagram on the Kit's World sheet is so small (sigh), I used the instruction sheet's drab bird as a rough reference. I figured most drab Lightnings were painted the same way. 

Have you ever noticed the tape lines on the engines and gun bay panel lines of the drab P-38?  Alot of Lightnings had them.  I'm not sure why they were there, perhaps they were part of the shipping process overseas? Got me, but hey were all over the nose and nacelles.  I recreated them by spraying XF-49 Khaki then using strips of Tamiya tape in a pattern while using a picture I had as a reference.  I did this on my P-38 G and was pleased with how it looked. 

This was my first experience with Gunze Aqueous Olive Drab.  I love it. Its the perfect balance between green and brown.  I cut it with Tamiya X-20 and it started off a bit transluctent but once I got the ratio right, it was like silk. 

I added a bit of XF-49 Khaki to the paint and sprayed the condensation streaks.across the top of the wing.  I've read that Olds and his crew waxed his aircraft to get a bit of extra speed out of them.  With that in mind, I dialed back a little on my normal streaking process.  I'm shooting for barely noticeable once its all done.  I then taped off the control surfaces and sprayed them this color to break up the OD a bit.  So far, I'm pleased how Scat II is turnng out. 

Joe

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Friday, April 5, 2013 11:33 AM

Joe, thast looking sweet.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    October 2008
Posted by eatthis on Saturday, April 6, 2013 2:16 PM

the booms are glued to the centre section but the props and outer wings are just shoved on for the pics

3 griffons + contrarotating props + 8x20mm cannons = VERY fast VERY nasty fighterplane

 

snow + 4wd + escessive hp = :)  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x7egUIS70YM

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Monday, April 8, 2013 8:31 PM

I'm in the home stretch now.  I removed all the tape and here's how she turned out and I'm pleased so far.  No bleed under anywhere.  My paint trick in conjunction with Tamiya tape works everytime.  I added some more post shading and the distinctive supercharger exhaust staining along the booms.  In pictures this looks chalky white.  For this I used dilluted Buff XF-57 lightened with a touch of Flat White XF-2.  I then used dilluted NATO Black XF-69 and added a few thin streaks from the exhaust pipe to add depth.  I also painted the props and hubs too and its ready for a clear coat. 

I gave the airframe a coat of Alclad Gloss Coat for decals.  This stuff is great and dries quickly.  You could probably start decaling in few hours but I usually let it cure overnight to be safe......or in other words, forget Future.  The Kits World decals worked well but only a handful were applicable to my subject, the plane specific ones, the "no step" window frame warnings, and the prop logos.  The rest I sourced from an old Superscale sheet.  This burns me, I shouldn't have to do this for what this sheet cost, its just silly.   Anyways, I'm reasy to start assembly.

Joe 

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2012
  • From: Olmsted Township, Ohio
Posted by lawdog114 on Tuesday, April 9, 2013 3:44 AM

....and a few more (now that the "New and Improved" Photobucket is working again).  What was wrong with the old version? If it ain't broke don't fix it.  Anyways, I'm about to give her a Flory Wash and start assembly of the gears and canopies.  I got some True Details wheels but I'm not crazy about them. These aren't their best work. I may go with Ultracast. 

I must say, if it wasn't for the the invasion stripes, Robin Olds plane was kind of boring.  Not even a serial number on the tail. 

Joe

 

 

 

 "Can you fly this plane and land it?...Surely you can't be serious....I am serious, and don't call me Shirley"

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Rothesay, NB Canada
Posted by VanceCrozier on Tuesday, April 9, 2013 8:26 AM

Beautiful Lightning Joe - how did the Hasegawa kit go together? You may have WiP pics I haven't seen yet, haven't gone back to catch up on this thread yet :(

I agree with you on the "new Photobucket". I was offerred the beta version before it started becomming standard. Figured I'd take it as it would have to happen eventually. My reaction was "Looks prettier, less functional". How....modern!

On the bench: Airfix 1/72 Wildcat; Airfix 1/72 Vampire T11; Airfix 1/72 Fouga Magister

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