Ju 87 Stuka GB

PJ, oh my! I haven't done that one yet, does NOT sound fun.

Greg

Don't forget the scratch line on the finger too! Boy it HURTS!  

68, liking that. Nearly there.

Nathan T

Yep, you might even get that trademark scratched wavy line right next to the scribed line just like I do

Ha!

68GT, looking good all splintered and decaled up! Hope my splinter comes out half as good.

Nice work there Greg!

I have  little more to do besides the bombs.  I knocked a step off while weathering and dull coating.  I also see that I have to paint the tail wheel, formation lights and reattach the pitot tube & antenna mast.

Greg

Ok, if both Nathan and PJ uses it, it's gotta be good.

So now my work will be as good as you guyses-s, guaranteed, right? 

Yep, you might even get that trademark scratched wavy line right next to the scribed line just like I do

Ok, if both Nathan and PJ uses it, it's gotta be good.

So now my work will be as good as you guyses-s, guaranteed, right? 

You guys are talking about the fabulous UMM scriber. I got one about 4-5 years ago and it's a little jewel.

Mike, thanks for confirming masking the wheels, and for the tip about Verlinden.

Nathan, I actually saw one of Jon's videos using the scriber over a year ago, been wanting to order one for that long. Your post in the other thread finally got me in motion. Thanks for reminding me about the videos. He makes it look so easy and reviewing the video(s) would be a great tutorial!

Greg

Ahah, a template. Thanks, Nathan.

Oddly, after I initially read your reply, I was on UMM-USA ordering one of the neat scribing tools you mentioned in another thread, I saw some templates but they were all out of stock, so I'll check elsewhere.

And thanks for your input re the wheel masking too.

Ahh, smart Man! Jon has some good vids on Youtube regarding his scriber. Good watch to learn other uses for that tool. I find myself scribing alot with the straight edge part of the tool. Just start you line by pushing along, then go over it with the sharp point of the scriber. 

Greg -- doing the wheels first was the method I used on both my Stukas to date. While masking them after assembling the spats around the painted wheels seems fiddly, it's actually easier than it seems, and works perfectly.

Re templates, Verlinden have some excellent scribing templates in etched metal -- check out 3Dverlinden on eBay, they have them in both 72 and 48.

Cheers, M/TB379

Ahah, a template. Thanks, Nathan.

Oddly, after I initially read your reply, I was on UMM-USA ordering one of the neat scribing tools you mentioned in another thread, I saw some templates but they were all out of stock, so I'll check elsewhere.

And thanks for your input re the wheel masking too.

Greg

PJ, she's really starting to look like a Stuka there, mate.

Thanks for commenting on my wing root work.

How will you mask off the wheels for painting the wheel fairings? Just occurred to me I've never run into this before.

Bish, Nathan, thanks for commenting. Never having attempted a rivet before, I located the tip of a #5 blade by eye then "drilled it" 3 or 4 rotations in the manner of a drill bit in a pin vise. Was surprised to get some nice curly styrene shavings.

Nathan, on that oval, luckily those are included with my Eduard PE set (whew!). I'd be clueless how to re-scribe an oval, and any input would be appreciated.

I just taped off the wheels with Tamiya tape, sliding the tape between the spats. Only taped over the half of the wheel that shows once they are in the spats, basically like PJ said. For the oval shape, you need a PE scribing template. From Eduard or Lion Roar or any other generic template. They come in very handy. Then use a needle in a pin vise, or I believe Flex i file makes sharp pointed scribing tips to chuck in a pin vise. Thats what I use. 

PJ, thanks for the info on wheel masking. As usual, I was over-complicating the process in my mind. :)

Good call on the Eduard mask. Just thinking about masking a Stuka canopy the traditional way gets my head spinning!

Ha re the riveting tool! I just now made a purchase at UMM-USA that I've been putting off for 18 months, was looking at their riveting tools but held off.

Just for the record, I am certainly NOT recommending my method for rivets. Having never done a rivet job before, I was clueless and just tried something.

Thanks Greg and Bish

Greg

I will use either low tack tape or tissue paper as a wheel/tire mask. Due to the spats, the wheels have to be finished first. Thought about finishing the wheels on the spats after painting the greens but I had better control prior to assembly.

I thought about masking the canopies with tape but it's just too many glass panels so I purchased the Eduard canopy mask which will make it a breeze.

You mentioned how to make the rivet details. I have a 3 piece tool set just for making the rivets. I'm going to say I got it from MicroMark many years ago. It makes it a very easy and accurate task.

really, that simple. I was expecting some device or something complicated. I reckon the same thing would work in 72nd with a smaller blade and less pressure.

PJ, she's really starting to look like a Stuka there, mate.

Thanks for commenting on my wing root work.

How will you mask off the wheels for painting the wheel fairings? Just occurred to me I've never run into this before.

Bish, Nathan, thanks for commenting. Never having attempted a rivet before, I located the tip of a #5 blade by eye then "drilled it" 3 or 4 rotations in the manner of a drill bit in a pin vise. Was surprised to get some nice curly styrene shavings.

Nathan, on that oval, luckily those are included with my Eduard PE set (whew!). I'd be clueless how to re-scribe an oval, and any input would be appreciated.

Looking good PJ.

Scott

Fantastic work on that engine. It looks impressive. Your laptops are probably loaded up with adware and malware like my PC was and I suspect Photobucket as the source. I had mine cleaned by a repair shop that found hundreds of junk files slowing down my system. A quick check can be done by closing all your programs and applications and opening the task manager, then look at the usage that will probably show it at 90% + at work. Malwarebytes did not catch any of those junk files. Since then I switched to Imageshack.

Greg

Great job in making that wing to fuselage join invisible.

With Christmas over, I was able to do a little more work  on mine. Got the tail section and supports on and the spats done. The tires were painted Testors rubber and the wheels RLM66. The prop blades were glued into the hub and the paint stage looks like it's around the corner.

tempest, coming on nicely. Its good to see those cannon being put to good use.

Greg, that's some nice work there. How did you do those rivets.

Nice sanding work Greg. Right of passage indeed. If you can, rescribe the oval panel a bit more. Everything else looks nicely restored. What did you use to make the rivets?

Clemens, thanks for the good words of praise. I hope we get to see a Stuka from you yet...and not only because you're in my Kette!

Johny, good to see more progress.

Everyone, tonight I rescribed some wing panel lines and gave a first go a rivets after my most aggresive wing root blend attempt to date:

I post this not because I think I did a good job, but because after I finished I felt like I'd just completed some strange rite of passage. A little more indoctrinated to the insanity here that I love so much.

(I see I missed some work at the leading and trailing edges)

Did a little more work on the Stuka.  Bish you were so right about the difference in the cannon on the academy kit. Many thanks for the parts

Lewbud, yes, but the end date is now the end of March.

Bish, did I read that if you hadn't started by the end date the build wouldn't count?

Raven728

I've used a silver Sharpie with mixed results - if the detail is raised enough it works great, but if the detail is more shallow, the ink tends to run into the recesses similar to paint.

Greg, that's been my problem as well with my Italeri kit; too much gung-ho and not enough planning and foresight.

Thanks Raven, that's good to know!  Will be sure to check that when I use it.

Eagle90

Thanks. I like the look of that. I am planning on getting the airscale IP and possibly their bezels and cockpit details. But after doing a lt of scratching on an He 111Z and an 88mm gun I have gotten a bit of a bug for it, so when I get to mine I will certainly be seeing what else I can do. that wiring will defiantly be on the list.

Bish...for the wiring I used an old extension cord, cut it up and twist the wiring to my liking. I also use various sizes of those small spools of floral wiring along with a larger diameter flexible wiring found in the jewelery section of Michael's craft stores.

In the past I have built the 1/24th Airfix kits of the ME-109, FW-190. Hurricane, Spitfire and the Mustang but none of them went together as well as the Stuka. It is a fun build and for those who have better detailing skills than I have can do amazing to it.

Greg...I'm looking at leaving the cowl panels off, be a pity to cover the engine. Only issues I'm having is with my Badger 100 AB, think it's time to find a new needle for it.

I've used a silver Sharpie with mixed results - if the detail is raised enough it works great, but if the detail is more shallow, the ink tends to run into the recesses similar to paint.

Greg, that's been my problem as well with my Italeri kit; too much gung-ho and not enough planning and foresight.