Ju 87 Stuka GB

mustang1989

Rigidrider

My "seceret" to fading and weathering is to do several light mist coats of Isopropol Alcohol to fade paint before applying the dull coat. The alcohol does a great job of fading alone and the top dull coat is more to protect the paint and markings

Do it. It works. I knew you were gonna tell him about the "secret" Doug!  Additionally , a couple of drops of a light grey in the ISO / dullcoat mix will "sun bleach" the paint for that added effect.  BTW , thank you Doug for letting me in on that secret. I've used it on my last two ,and subsequently, this build. Just got through adding the dullcoat/faded coat to the Stuka yesterday. Will post pics after I do some more to it.

SchattenSpartan

Gary: looking good so far!

Bish: So you did get the Aires cockpit after all?

It just turned up on my doorstep out of the blue, honest it did

Gary: looking good so far!

Bish: So you did get the Aires cockpit after all?

Gary, this is the part from the 32nd Aires set, hopefully this will give you a better idea.

Gary, my A has a different frame for the radios, but my 32nd G is close to hand, so I will get a pic pater today.

It seems quite common with the Monogram kits that they just label them B or D etc. You seem to have caught everything on the wing needed to make it a G-2. And just to save you a little bit of time, the yellow V wing marking should only be on the left wing, not both.

Gary, that's interesting the HB is the re-boxed Monogram.  I've built a HB kit before, and while short on details the fit was excellent.  I look forward to your progress.

Bish>  Yes, it's a picture of the "frame" I'm looking for.  Thought someone might have a loose part or one on the sprue they might make a picture of for reference.  Thanks!

Now that the C-47 for "The Longest Day GB" is finished, I might as well get started on my Stuka.  As you may remember... from way back when... the Stuka I'm building is the "Hobby Craft JU-87" (no, not Hobby Boss... Hobby CRAFT).  This is apparently a re-boxing of the venerable Monogram version, as it is virtually identical.

First up, let's take a look at the fine detailing in the... cockpit......area.......

Okay, nevermind about the cockpit.  That's gonna take some work... and a small miracle.

Next up, just what kind of Stuka is this?  It appears to be a G2 with the longer wings, but the box doesn't say that.  So there are some differences.  What are they?  What will it take to convert this from a "G something" to a G2?

Referencing the "JU-87 Stuka in Action" book, I find that the differences between the G1 and the G2 version are the wing walkways and the wing gun mounts.  Is that all?

So, taking a flat file I remove the offending details from the wings.  Some panel lines are lost... yeah, right.  Like that's a big deal.  And I begin slapping some paint on the cockpit, and trying to add something in there to busy it up.

The wing on the left is corrected, the wing on the right is still adhering to its errant ways.  We'll have to re-educate it, comrade....  er, wait...

Meanwhile, I've acquired some 1:48 scale figures that will make a nice scene once the Stuka is finished.  Snow... lots of snow...

Thanks for reading!

Gary

Thanks Clemens... It hangs in the Muesum of Science and Industry in Chicago, and the picture had been posted earlier in the posts and I thought the same thing... But, I had to give it a go!

Doug

Joe: Now that is one sweet looking color schme! Perfectly executed as well!

John: Great work on your Stuka! All the nice panel line weathering really makes the splinter camo pop!

Doug: Very impressinve work on that unusual color scheme! It simply has to be the craziest Stuka camo ever!

GAF, i'll second that. Its one of those ideas where I am thinking why did I not think of that.

Have you checked Mustangs pics on page 74.

cs.finescale.com/.../157957.aspx

Or is it the frame the radio's are fitted to you need. If so, this is my G-1 from last year, is this any help.

The frame was also a roll bar to protect the crew in case of a crash, so it extends above their heads, and  

Mustang1989,

Thanks!  That's an imaginative idea.  You need to suggest that one in the Finescale Modeler magazine for tips on building (if it hasn't already been in there).

Now I need some help.  If anyone has a version of the Stuka G2 that they have not already built, I need a picture (or pictures preferably) of the radio rack partition, the one that is directly behind the pilot seat.  If you can post a picture of the part, I need to see about replicating it in plastic card for this poor, sparse cockpit in the Hobby Craft Stuka I'm putting together.  I haven't found a good flat on image of the thing in my searches.

Thanks!

Gary

No I just applied in REALLY light coats with the needle of the AB slightly open.

Mustang1989,

Did you future around the edge of the straw or anything (to prevent paint from running under)?

Gary

mustang1989

Just have the spinner in a location where you can move the AB around it without having to move the straw and you're good to go.

I better dig out a straw, though I think a small one rather than a large one, I might lose the spinner completely.

John that came out great, very nice work!

Just have the spinner in a location where you can move the AB around it without having to move the straw and you're good to go.

mustang1989

I end up painting the spinner  the color I want the tip to be, then fitting a large straw over the tip of the spinner and then painting the rest of the spinner the different color. Works for me.

Now that sounds like a good idea, hadn't thought of that one.

I end up painting the spinner  the color I want the tip to be, then fitting a large straw over the tip of the spinner and then painting the rest of the spinner the different color. Works for me.

John... Great finish! Very realistic... for the way I do fading start reading pg 80 where Thunderbolt made a post and read down past where Mustang commented,  thats a good method that really works well. I can share the process, but the techniques are nothing more then trial and error until you hit on a style for you.

Any time I can help you have but to ask or send a pm. If I cant help I will try to finf someone who can.

Doug

Coming thick and fast now guys. John, just beautiful, really great looking build. I am sure Rudel would be proud.

Tom, good question, that is a tricky one to deal with. On the Academy kit I was lucky in that there is a recessed line around the spinner just where the yellow started, so I was able to brush paint using that as a guide. masking stuff like that is rather tricky, it can be done with very find masking tape carefully wrapped around, the trick is not to have any kinks in it.

Does anyone use frisket film for things like this.

Hey, a quick question.

How do you guys paint the end of the spinner?  Masking or some other technique?

John, great job! 

Doug, again, I love the MSI plane.  You did an awesome job.  I gotta try that myself sometime. If I get it half as good as you have, I'm gonna hang it from the ceiling above my desk in the same posture as the one at MSI.

Reasoned, I'm building the Revel and yes, I had a gap, but it wasn't too bad.  It filled easily.  I did have trouble getting the stabilizer straight.  It dips slightly to one side.  I got it the best I could, but it if you look very closely, you can notice it.  I then went and looked closely at the build I did 30 years ago, and it's tilted the same direction, only worse. 

I hope to post some pics in the next week or so.  I'm making progress, but work has gotten crazy for a few weeks and has slowed me up.

Awesome work John!  I like your crisp splinter camo and your panel lines look really good.

Ok,  I'm gonna say this Stuka is done!

finished with the ordinance, landing light and tail wheel.

John

Doug your stuka looks fantastic,  I still don't know how to get the sun faded paint look, I'll keep working at i on my next build.

John

Thanks everyone for the nice comments on my Stuka, couldn't have done it without our help, advice and examples

John

LOL... thats good Joe... cant wait to see. Yes a few drops of grey is a good way to speed up the fade, and again, my heart felt appreciation for the kudos from all.

Reasoned, this one I have just completed is a Monogram/Revell kit and although there was a very small gap, it was not an issue and sealed with a thinned appliction of white out and acetone, and liquid cement to bond.

Gary... come on,  thats why we share "secrets" and techniques with our fellow builders!  As someone told me here years ago... You compete only with yourself. , I, m  looking forward to seeing more from you, and if you hit a block, no one here would deny info if needed. (if needed).

Take care all,

Doug

Rigidrider

My "seceret" to fading and weathering is to do several light mist coats of Isopropol Alcohol to fade paint before applying the dull coat. The alcohol does a great job of fading alone and the top dull coat is more to protect the paint and markings

Reasoned, can't help wit you second question, but yes, the flame dampers are open.

As I seem to have "lost that loving feeling" for building, looking at my partially completed Stuka a couple of questions pop up. 1) If building a night version with the flame dampers on exhaust, are the end(s) opened?  and 2) Any of you that built the Revel kit, did you have trouble getting the stabilizer to fit properly w/o a gap where it meets the rudder?