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I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
Looking good Bish. The paint and washes look really good. You can still do the fading. Spray clear flat acrylic and when dry, do a filter of turp and yellow ochre oil paint. That's how I did it to my Ju87B Desert Snake for the Stuka GB. Just go light on the wash mix cuz yellow ochre is very strong.
Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!
Another short update.I got the decalson the otehr day. After i finished those, i realise dthat i really should have done some fading with the airbrush. This is the first time i have done a desert aircraft since i started serious weatheirng and in 72nd scale i would have done this with dry brushing. But with this larger scale, the fading would have been better with the air brush. So one lesson i have lkearmnt is to treat 32nd aircraft similar to 35th armour rather than smaller scale aircraft. I had also starte dthe exhaust staining when i took these.
And then some weathering. I was originally going to go for the lighter touch. But i found some info that this aircrfat was older than i had thought. Apparently it had crashed earlier in the year and then repaired before Marseille got hold of her.
For the weathering i used Flory Wash dark dirt top and bottom and then dry brushed the top.
One point on the Flory Wash. You can see that the bottom is cleane rthan the top.Despite the top getting a future coat is was less glss than the top. The flory wash sticks more to the flatter finish but just slids off the gloss. It can be removed from the flat finsih, but it does take some work, but its really hard to keep in on the gloss. So if you wnat a clener finish with it just in the panel lines,its best applied to glss. If you want a more grubby look, use it on a flat surface.
I'll do a little more to the underside once the flat clear coat is applied, hopefuly tomorrow.
And that all for now. Once i get the flat on, i can then add the clear window parts,which should be fun.
Thanks for the nice comments fellas.
Bish
I love using the Flory Washes. Simply outstanding! Great for bringing out recessed details and griming up certain areas. Easy to remove and control. They do stick well to flat paint so heads up on that.
For the fluid streaks I used burnt umber oil paint straight from the tube. The wheel well washes was a combination of burnt umber with a touch black to darken it just a tad.
Lookin' good there PJ.
BK
On the bench:
A lot !! And I mean A LOT!!
2024 Kits on deck / in process / completed
14 / 5 / 2
Gee that's looking good, Ernie.
Impressive work masking around those exhaust stack.
Fine work, PJ! Very, very nice. I really like the wheels. Great job on the mottling too! Looking forward to seeing it all done!
-Tom
Have been plugging away at this so here are a few progress pictures.....
Got all the decals on and a combination of Flory and oil washes that still have to be tuned up here and there.
The next one I build will be different when it comes to the stacks. You have to either modify the stacks so they can be added after painting or do a lot of masking if done the Revell way. Masked the area and shot MM Burnt Iron Metalizer at 6 psi.
masking removed
Had some silvering under the wing crosses so no biggie there. Just used some post it notes to mask the crosses and shot some colors.
Got the tires assembled and painted. The tail gear broke off so it got pinned and now it actually swivels. I also flattened the tail wheel just a tad.
Did my home brew of oil and turp wash for the wells.
Did some streaks with oils for fluid stains. Letting things cure a bit then some Testors Flat Lacquer will be sprayed to kill the gloss. Some final assemblies and this G-6 will be done.
mustang1989 Greg Paint job looking good indeed, Bish. I too have to pinch myself every few days to realise this is 1:32 I'm looking at. You and me both !!!
Greg Paint job looking good indeed, Bish. I too have to pinch myself every few days to realise this is 1:32 I'm looking at.
Paint job looking good indeed, Bish.
I too have to pinch myself every few days to realise this is 1:32 I'm looking at.
You and me both !!!
And i make 3. I have just been putting the exhaust staining on, and have just realised i forgot to take pics before doing it
Forum | Modelers Social Club Forum (proboards.com)
Man alive!!!!!! Both of you guys are turning out some super fine work on those paint jobs!!! Bish I'm still having a hard time believing that this is 32nd scale stuff from you. lol
A short update before the decals go on. Despite useing Xtracolour RLM 79,which is glss,i still had to give the top a coat of future.
Lookin' good, Bish and PJ. You're on the home stretch! It'll great to see them done.
You're gonna like that flory, PJ. It's so easy to work with.
I'm a little late to the discussion about RLM 04 yellow. I've had good luck just using RLM65 as a base coat for it. It makes it realy convenient. The key, at least for me, is to just build it up very slowly. The tendency is to hurry and keep pushing paint until you 'see' the yellow tone you want, which makes it too thick. This, without drying between the many very thin coats you need.
Thanks Greg. I only hear great things about Flory so I'm itching to try it out.
AJ, thanks for the heads up re Squardron's Eduard price.
PJ, mottle and the rest looks excellent as usual. I'm kind of excited for you to try the Flory wash. Hope you like it. I sure do.
Finally got the mottling done and several coats of Aqua Gloss were applied to prepare the surface for decals and Flory washes. (when they get here from the other side of the pond)
Yes there is that funny lookng foam again, this time in the supercharger intake
I used a 3200 grit pad to lightly rub down the finish before and after spraying the gloss.
Fellas, I'm not the kind of guy to tell stories out of school, but if you are into larger scales, I just noticed Sprue Bros has their 1/32 Weekend Edition 109Es on sale for 22.49 USD. Thats only 2 bucks more than the 1/48 kit. Wow. Almost makes this dedicated quarter scale man want to size up.
plasticjunkie If you rip a small piece and grab it with your tweezers, then dunk it into some aluminum paint, it becomes a great chipping tool when lightly dabbed on the desired area. Blot it on some paper towel first to remove the excess Paint then chip away,
If you rip a small piece and grab it with your tweezers, then dunk it into some aluminum paint, it becomes a great chipping tool when lightly dabbed on the desired area. Blot it on some paper towel first to remove the excess Paint then chip away,
Now there's a clever idea. Thanks again, Ernie.
Greg Ernie, thanks! And also for the link.
Ernie, thanks! And also for the link.
You are very welcome Greg. I just cut the chunks to whatever size I need.
Thanks boys for the compliments.
Greg
That foam came as packing material in one of the packages we received here at the house so I decided to keep the small pieces just for this use. It's just like the soft pliable foam in a pillow or a cushion only just a tad firmer. I remember seeing this kind if packing in computer boxes we got at work some years back before I retired.
This is the same thing:
http://www.grainger.com/product/NANUK-CASES-Foam-Inserts-16Z296?gclid=CJH1k62k1scCFQ8YHwodyBgAug&cm_mmc=PPC%3AGOOGLEPLAA-_-Material+Handling-_-Protective+Packaging+and+Accessories-_-16Z296&ef_id=VeXWEQAABDzAiCOg%3A20150901164505%3As
Looking good, Ernie.
Can you say again where you have scrounged that soft foam, please? I know I've seen and handled it, just drawing a blank.
Bish: Man that canopy looks great!!! Coming along nicely!!
Ernie: I hear you on the "good neighbor act". My neighbor across the street needs me to put a starter in their Nissan truck. Your 109 is looking great bud.
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