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Ships of the American Flag GB 2019 -2021

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  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, October 12, 2019 11:45 PM

Bakster, might I suggest you paint the assembly before adding the PE.

While the railings are the same color as the verticals, the decks are a darker gray color.

And the stack cap is black.

 

Bill

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Saturday, October 12, 2019 11:55 PM

modelcrazy
At 1/700 scale, it is extreamly difficult to get everything perfectly aligned.

Amen. Thanks for the encouragement, Admiral.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, October 13, 2019 12:07 AM

GMorrison

Bakster, might I suggest you paint the assembly before adding the PE.

While the railings are the same color as the verticals, the decks are a darker gray color.

And the stack cap is black.

 

Bill

 

Say GM, for that reason I planned on adding the stack caps later and after everything else is painted. I didn't know though that the decks are a different color, that complicates things. Blah. Thanks for bringing that to my attention, and I will give that some thought.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Sunday, October 13, 2019 9:43 AM

An old adage of ship models is to build from the bottom up, and from the inside out.

I generally find that it is easiest to paint the steel decks first, and then mask those flat surfaces off and paint the verticals. Exceptions do exist, say a smaller gun tub. There, it might be easier to paint the whole part the vertical color and then paint the small area of deck with a fine brush. Esp. if theres then a gun, direction finder or radar sitting in it.

I'm not at all sure what all of the decks are painted currently on the Whisky. It's always difficult with museum ships, which often follows after what is available via donations. Looking at a number of photos of the Iowas in the 1980s, the decks that are not natural wood are a dark gray non-skid. The verticals are Haze Gray.

They are pretty looking for sure.

Don't be tricked by the AM advertising. They love to add all that brass on unpainted plastic because it looks much more striking than when camouflaged.

 

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Sunday, October 13, 2019 5:05 PM

Mach71: She looks fantastic! Great job considering all the extra work you put in there modding her.

Bakster: Looks good. Yeah, I'd build from the inside out too, to keep myself from knocking exterior stuff off as I work on the interior.

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, October 13, 2019 5:12 PM

GMorrison

An old adage of ship models is to build from the bottom up, and from the inside out.

I generally find that it is easiest to paint the steel decks first, and then mask those flat surfaces off and paint the verticals. Exceptions do exist, say a smaller gun tub. There, it might be easier to paint the whole part the vertical color and then paint the small area of deck with a fine brush. Esp. if theres then a gun, direction finder or radar sitting in it.

I'm not at all sure what all of the decks are painted currently on the Whisky. It's always difficult with museum ships, which often follows after what is available via donations. Looking at a number of photos of the Iowas in the 1980s, the decks that are not natural wood are a dark gray non-skid. The verticals are Haze Gray.

 

They are pretty looking for sure.

Don't be tricked by the AM advertising. They love to add all that brass on unpainted plastic because it looks much more striking than when camouflaged.

 

 

Thanks for the workflow info Bill, and that photo shows what you are talking about with the decks pretty well. I was aware of the darker shades on the main deck, and on some areas of the main guns, but I was not aware of the color variance within the superstructure. Good you pointed  that out. 

Does anyone have advice regarding the hull color? I was probably just gonna use Tamiyas light gray. 

  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by Kentucky Colonel on Sunday, October 13, 2019 7:14 PM

 

While we're on that subject, Does the Missouri in the Korea War have some of her decks and the tops of her main guns darker gray or is it Deck Blue or Navy Blue? I've only seen black and white pictures of Korea War with a tan wood deck and "darker" color on some tops than the gray on the sides. If anybody has any idea what those "darker" colors are it would be a big help to me.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, October 13, 2019 8:22 PM

I repaired the support legs using brass tubing and glued them with CA. I was not sure how well the CA would hold, but they are. I ran them through stresses by test fitting and surprisingly they didn't snap off. That assembly is not glued in because it should be painted black and I'll mount it after all the painting.

Also--I removed the railing I did on the deck below the stack. I will follow GMs advice by painting first and then add the rails. I could have left the rails on, but I didn't want to deal with hand painting all that. Maybe it was foolish at this point but hey, it will give me more PE practice and, it will allow me the opportunity to try GMs workflow.

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, October 14, 2019 12:25 AM

Kentucky Colonel

 

While we're on that subject, Does the Missouri in the Korea War have some of her decks and the tops of her main guns darker gray or is it Deck Blue or Navy Blue? I've only seen black and white pictures of Korea War with a tan wood deck and "darker" color on some tops than the gray on the sides. If anybody has any idea what those "darker" colors are it would be a big help to me.

 

Testors makes a Model Master Haze Gray in their enamels. It's the WW2 version which is said to be more blue than post war. Tamiya folks seem to suggest Medium Gray.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Monday, October 14, 2019 10:13 PM

Kentucky Colonel

 

While we're on that subject, Does the Missouri in the Korea War have some of her decks and the tops of her main guns darker gray or is it Deck Blue or Navy Blue? I've only seen black and white pictures of Korea War with a tan wood deck and "darker" color on some tops than the gray on the sides. If anybody has any idea what those "darker" colors are it would be a big help to me.

 
 
 

KC--I just found this old thread on Haze Gray. It might be helpfull to you.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/165797.aspx

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Monday, October 14, 2019 10:17 PM

PS: Anyone else have issues posting links not being hot? This is going on months for me...irritating. 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, October 14, 2019 10:42 PM

That link looks good guys. I'd go with MM Neutral Grey, FS 36270 myself.

Bakster, what do you mean?

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Monday, October 14, 2019 11:41 PM

modelcrazy

That link looks good guys. I'd go with MM Neutral Grey, FS 36270 myself.

Bakster, what do you mean?

 

Admiral, I posted that link and from this side it is not hot. In other words, if you tap on it it is dead. A person has to copy the link into their browser. Or is it appearing that way from my side only and it works for you guys?

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 12:02 AM

  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by Kentucky Colonel on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 7:31 AM

Bakster

 

 
modelcrazy

That link looks good guys. I'd go with MM Neutral Grey, FS 36270 myself.

Bakster, what do you mean?

 

 

 

Admiral, I posted that link and from this side it is not hot. In other words, if you tap on it it is dead. A person has to copy the link into their browser. Or is it appearing that way from my side only and it works for you guys?

 

 

 

I used to have that problem but then I learned to post links the same way I post pictures, though the "insert" on the top of the post body.  Once I hit "Insert" it's drop down window has "Insert Link" I post the link inside the URL and hit OK.

  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by Kentucky Colonel on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 7:54 AM

Bakster

 

 
Kentucky Colonel

 

While we're on that subject, Does the Missouri in the Korea War have some of her decks and the tops of her main guns darker gray or is it Deck Blue or Navy Blue? I've only seen black and white pictures of Korea War with a tan wood deck and "darker" color on some tops than the gray on the sides. If anybody has any idea what those "darker" colors are it would be a big help to me.

 
 
 

 

 

KC--I just found this old thread on Haze Gray. It might be helpfull to you.

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/7/t/165797.aspx

 

 

 

 

Thanks for the links. I bought the AK US Naval paints and I plan to use them. So I need to make up my mind on which ones where. I DO want to keep my wood deck and not paint over that.

 

There is this guy on YouTube and has a Missouri model painted in Measure 22 but he did not paint the deck "Deck Blue", just left it wood. I'm thinking about doing mine like that. He did use "Deck Blue" on certain decks that did not have the wood. The AK Deck Blue and Navy Blue are not quite the same, there is a small difference.

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 9:12 AM

Hey Gamera!

     I built a lot on the Whisky for the BaD shipmodel guys before they shipped it to Nauticus. Aside from the new hardware for At Sea refueling and such and minus a few guns and the Cats with Planes, they are fairly good to go.

      Now granted they now have Ciws and other systems. That does Not detract from their sheer massive beauty. The only thing is, the After end of the ship looks naked without the Cat's and Planes.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 10:54 AM

Oh, I see what you mean. Yeah, those have not been hot links for some time for me. I just hightlight them and open them in a new tab. A little anoying.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 11:16 AM

Bakster

I repaired the support legs using brass tubing and glued them with CA. I was not sure how well the CA would hold, but they are. I ran them through stresses by test fitting and surprisingly they didn't snap off. That assembly is not glued in because it should be painted black and I'll mount it after all the painting.

Also--I removed the railing I did on the deck below the stack. I will follow GMs advice by painting first and then add the rails. I could have left the rails on, but I didn't want to deal with hand painting all that. Maybe it was foolish at this point but hey, it will give me more PE practice and, it will allow me the opportunity to try GMs workflow.

 

 

 

It looks good to me! 

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: SW Virginia
Posted by Gamera on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 11:18 AM

Tanker-Builder

Hey Gamera!

     I built a lot on the Whisky for the BaD shipmodel guys before they shipped it to Nauticus. Aside from the new hardware for At Sea refueling and such and minus a few guns and the Cats with Planes, they are fairly good to go.

      Now granted they now have Ciws and other systems. That does Not detract from their sheer massive beauty. The only thing is, the After end of the ship looks naked without the Cat's and Planes.

 

I've got some photos around somewhere of your model TB. I was looking for my vacation photos of the Whisky for Bakster but not sure where I put them now... Sad

"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 11:44 AM
OK, this is what my research found regarding the post war Iowa class deck colors, other than it is difficult to get an answer. For the 80's, since I believe you Bakster, building the Wiski and KC, the Missouri for Korea, give or take a few years. The horizonal surfaces and turret tops should be FS 26270 Medium Grey, upper deck, FS 36118 Gunship Grey and the flight deck and non-skid areas around the D turret ETC, FS 36076 Engine Grey. Now depending on which picture you find, assuming you can, the areas may change but the colors shouldn't. The Navy is a stickler for uniformity. Now ALL colors will fade on a ship. The sea is the harshest environment for something made of steel to operate in given constant UV, salt, wind, waves, water and the wee little ants crawling around on the monster all day and night. Plus, the fact that all of these environmental conditions, and your enemies, are working together to sink you

 

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 3:28 PM

modelcrazy

Oh, I see what you mean. Yeah, those have not been hot links for some time for me. I just hightlight them and open them in a new tab. A little anoying.

 

Ok then its not just me. And KC, I have been doing the links the way you suggested. For some reason they don't work for me when I do them.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 3:36 PM

Gamera
I was looking for my vacation photos of the Whisky for Bakster but not sure where I put them now

Buddy--maybe you drank them? Added the whisky to some coke? Hey--it happens. 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 3:40 PM

modelcrazy
OK, this is what my research found regarding the post war Iowa class deck colors, other than it is difficult to get an answer. For the 80's, since I believe you Bakster, building the Wiski and KC, the Missouri for Korea, give or take a few years. The horizonal surfaces and turret tops should be FS 26270 Medium Grey, upper deck, FS 36118 Gunship Grey and the flight deck and non-skid areas around the D turret ETC, FS 36076 Engine Grey. Now depending on which picture you find, assuming you can, the areas may change but the colors shouldn't. The Navy is a stickler for uniformity. Now ALL colors will fade on a ship. The sea is the harshest environment for something made of steel to operate in given constant UV, salt, wind, waves, water and the wee little ants crawling around on the monster all day and night. Plus, the fact that all of these environmental conditions, and your enemies, are working together to sink you

 

 

Thanks Admiral--awseome info.

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 4:01 PM

Hi Modelcrazy.

I'm interested, no aguments planned, what source those FS color spec.s came from? 

It is hard to find post war Iowa color info.

Thanks, 

 

Bill

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 4:50 PM

GM,

I got it from Modelmakers Redit

https://www.reddit.com/r/modelmakers/comments/6bupls/modern_navy_ship_colors/

I had read a simillar article somewhere last year while looking for colors for my Spruance.

It's probably like trying to match USCG "Spar". You kinda have to eyeball it.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, October 15, 2019 4:56 PM

I like their attitude. I painted the flight deck of Midway with Testors Light Gunship Gray and it looks good to me.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    October 2009
Posted by Kentucky Colonel on Wednesday, October 16, 2019 7:42 AM

I just started to mess with my model last night while watching the ballgame. I wanted to try a couple of those PE parts since I have never use FlyHawk PE before.

I'm going to tell you right now, those FlyHawk PE parts are very, very, very FRAGILE.

I've used several other brands and none of them were this fragile. When I first removed a fret from the package I could tell it was not normal, very thin and very light. I took my tweezers and lightly pushed down on the end of the fret and it left a mark. I'm going to have to be very careful using this and then protecting it after it's finished.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Wednesday, October 16, 2019 8:40 AM

Kentucky Colonel

I just started to mess with my model last night while watching the ballgame. I wanted to try a couple of those PE parts since I have never use FlyHawk PE before.

I'm going to tell you right now, those FlyHawk PE parts are very, very, very FRAGILE.

I've used several other brands and none of them were this fragile. When I first removed a fret from the package I could tell it was not normal, very thin and very light. I took my tweezers and lightly pushed down on the end of the fret and it left a mark. I'm going to have to be very careful using this and then protecting it after it's finished.

 

Egads..  That could be difficult.

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Wednesday, October 16, 2019 11:26 AM

GMorrison

I like their attitude. I painted the flight deck of Midway with Testors Light Gunship Gray and it looks good to me.

 

Yeah, they seem like a nice bunch of guys. I stoped trying to get and exact match years ago. With weathering, fading and such, you can put two ships together and see a slight diffrence. Depends when they came out of the yard.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

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