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Trying to complete the funnel is well.... exhausting (I made a funny). Seriously, this has more parts on it than a Swiss watch (figure of speech). I made the second searchlight control structure for the other side but it looked a little funny and then I noticed, I bent them both the same way, so I had two right sides and no left side. One more case where the second PE package has saved me. After getting the second structure bent correctly I glued them both to the side of the exhaust funnel. I decided to glue them on prior to the searchlight platform. If you look closely at the photo the platform has bracing that must be folded under and glued. If you put it on first you will risk the side structures not fitting properly as the bracing beneath the platform goes both beneath the platform and against the side structures. This photo shows both side structures and the platform on as well as the bracing turned from flat and half folded.And this photo shows the bracing of the platform folded and glued to the side funnel structures. The crusty residue on the funnel is glue accelerator which was wiped off.Next was the supports beneath the side structures (4 each side).And now the fun began... the PE platform to the front of the side structures was not wide or deep enough around the funnel which caused a gap between the platform and the side structures that could not be easily fixed. My solution was to create a platform out of Evergreen sheet stock to replace the PE part. Once attached to the funnel and side structures I used spare PE for the hand rails. Last was folding / curling the hand rails for the top of the searchlight platform (this was frustrating and time consuming). This is what it looks like to that point (sitting on the superstructure):The Eduard instructions call for the removal of the top exhaust grate to be replaced with PE. Upon close study, the PE does not really add anything regarding detail, so I left the one in from the kit. The only thing added was the PE around the exhaust. My last photo shows the completed assembly:Next will be the rear hoist, till then hoist one for me (another funny) Ben
"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)
LAST COMPLETED:
1/35 Churchill Mk IV AVRE with bridge - DONE
NEXT PROJECT:
1/35 CH-54A Tarhe Helicopter
Your work continues to inspre and amaze Ben.
Steve
Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.
http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/
Ben, Your continuous work with all the photo-etch is really spectacular. Wonderful effort.
DRUMS01That is why I love these GB's, we have various scales and various subjects: subs, PT boats, battleships, frigates, carriers, etc. And it seems that everyone excells at the model they are building which is another great thing about these GB's. Learning together while enjoying others builds is definately a GB perk.
I couldn't agree more Ben. Participating in GB's has been the biggest part of bending my modeling curve. And this one is no exception. Although I face my share of trepidations with my first ship model, you folks here are the best source of inspiration and enthusiasm. FSM forums has always provided the very best in non-judgemental and helpful modeling.
"Not only do I not know what's going on, I wouldn't know what to do about it if I did". George Carlin
I broke down and ordered some of that gel medium today. those water dioramas by modelcrazy and scottrc have me psyched to get one done for my ship! Hope the stuff goes a long way...
In the pattern: Scale Shipyard's 1/48 Balao Class Sub! leaning out the list...NOT! Ha, added to it again - Viper MkVii, 1/32 THUD & F-15J plus a weekend madness build!
TheMongoose I broke down and ordered some of that gel medium today. those water dioramas by modelcrazy and scottrc have me psyched to get one done for my ship! Hope the stuff goes a long way...
It should. A big jar can last me a few dios. Now that I going to be using the foil for making the waves it should last longer. Did you get some varnish as well?
Steve and Mongoose.. I am going to try your water technique on the Arizona as well. I still have a long way to go before I start that phase of the build.
I'm Back at it, now on the rear hoist. It wasn't anything difficult really, just 12 pieces; one with seven folds; and four of them with four folds that end up being about the size of a pin head when done. I can't forget about the base of the hoist which is a three piece affair, then there was this scratch built tripod behind the hoist with one of those pin head pulleys glued to the top of it. Here is the WIP with the seven fold lattice work done, the base completed, two of the pinhead pulleys fully folded (one attached to the hoist) You can also see the tripod legs cut from spare stock, and another unfolded hoist cut from the PE. Oh, and lets not forget the supporting bracket glued to the bend in the lattice work, it will hold another pin head sized pully.And here it is with everything put together. Believe it or not, this silly hoist took 2 and 1/2 hours to get right. To the right of it is one of the completed Mark 19 Range Finders sitting where it will be on its platform. Behind it some of the completed PE waiting for clean, paint and assembly.
Has anyone built a hoist like this one before in 1/350? If so, can you tell me the secret in building them as this one was a PITA. And another photo of the accumulated guns completed so far. I started on the 5" guns to sit on the main deck of the superstructure, but I have nothing good to show just yet, there will be 8 of them. New barrels, and several PE pieces on each 5" gun.. I can't wait.Hope to have those little guns done tomorrow with photos, and then the cranes.....Ben
You sir, are becoming a PE master tech.
goldhammer You sir, are becoming a PE master tech.
Oh yeah, couldn't have said it any better!
"I dream in fire but work in clay." -Arthur Machen
Ben you're kicking it with that PE work! I did a ton of that for my frigate last year but alas no cranes on those so nothing more I can add to your process there.
Cranes? Yes, quite a few and no, they do not stop being a PIA, but done right they look fantastic compaired the the plastic in the kits. I would say that cranes, railing and rigging show off a ship as a master's work, not that OOB doesn't look striking, it just that the extra detail of those items really make it pop.
Good work on all the PE. I would need a break by now and work on a plane or something (typically why I have two projects going at once). I myself just finished up 30 telescops that attach to the 5"/38 dual gun mounts for the NC. Thoes wee little monsters cost me about 8 hours and several naughty words. Now on to the 15 quad 40mm Bofors mounts
Thats good work for sure.
Yes, four sided structures are hard to do.
One trick. If is see a challenge ahead, I photocopy the fret and cut the part out in paper. Then I play around with it until I figure out what's the best way to fold it up.
Bill
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
Whoa. You have done a banger of a job on that crane assembly Ben. Great work.
Gotta say though, watching all this complex PE assembly is tending reduce any "Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy" enthusiasm I was penting up for mine in 1/700. Lol!
Naw. Really. I'm good.
Don't let ship PE spook you Joe, Really. 1/700 seems more dificult than 1/350 but it's not. If your ship comes out half as nice as your planes, it will be a show stopper.
Thanks everyone for the encouraging words.
GM: I will have to try your paper idea in the future.
STEVE: I'm sure your PE work is stellar, it always is...
Today I completed all 8 of the 5" Mod 25 AA guns. Each gun when complete is approximately 7/16 of an inch. Here is what I am shooting for (yuk...yuk)Prior to any assembly I had to remove the plastic barrels. There are generally two way to do it; 1) separate the barrel from the molded in protrusion and just remove the barrel leaving the other small protrusion beside the barrel intact; 2) remove both pieces (everything barrel forward). I decided on option 2 because the other protrusion was molded as part of the barrel so just removing the barrel left something out of round with a flat side to it. Pilot holes were required to add the barrels to a micro bit was used. After the barrel was replaced I replaced the side extrusion with metal rod. Once the brass barrel assemblies were replaced I focused on the gun tub/cradle. When using PE to replicate the hand rails around each gun I found that there is a bump at the right front of each platform which would not allow the PE to lay correctly. I removed the little bumps with a razor knife while simultaneously removing the ejector pin marks from the floor plate. When drilling to add the brass barrels it evidently made the guns breech block a little wider as the gun did not want to fit into the cradle. I used a square flat file to carefully widen the cradle thus allowing the gun to fit. Here is the platform (notice the bump to the right front; the cradle has already been filed)I like that the PE also brought more detail to each gun battery such as the fuze adjustment rack to the left rear of the platform. Here they are in various progress of build.I think the biggest challenge was to add the hand rails so they have a square bend and sit the same on each one as intended. Here are the gun assemblies once completed.And here they sit on the deck. The splinter shields were added on 18 January 1941 while at the Puget Sound Naval Yard. If you are building a version prior to that you should keep the splinter shields off this deck, I will be adding them to my Arizona.All in all, a successful day, until next time.Ben
That's great work on the PE. I'm watching everybody since I had to stop my build for a while.
Nice work on the guns Ben.
Here are my 5"/8 twin mounts both with barrels and without. I ran out of time last night installing the barrels. Also the 16 inch turrets with the AM barrels and blast bags.
modelcrazy TheMongoose I broke down and ordered some of that gel medium today. those water dioramas by modelcrazy and scottrc have me psyched to get one done for my ship! Hope the stuff goes a long way... It should. A big jar can last me a few dios. Now that I going to be using the foil for making the waves it should last longer. Did you get some varnish as well?
I had this from my 1st attemp. On the back it says dries clear and is fluid in terms of thickness. Am i on the right track?
Perfect. You may also want to get some thicker stuff to form a bow wave. you don't need a big bottle/jar, the smallest will do just fine . If you have a HL in the area, if the're open, you can use the 40% coupon.
Nice to see more joining the wave to put their models in water
Joe, don't fret about PE in 1/700, its quite relaxing. Resin, on the other hand, is a different story. It is quite brittle and springy. What doesn't go shooting off into eternity from the end of my tweezers ends up crushing into dust if I squeeze too hard. This model has been an excercise in primitive neurosugery.
Here is the latest. I have not given much time at the bench. Been busy with too many other issues.
Ben, Steve, Scott: Those look awesome guys!!!
WOW!!!
That's looking stunning Scott
BEN: I love how your 5" guns turned out. Nice and effective approach you took on the barrels.
STEVE: Very inpressive work on your guns and turrets. Fantastic!
modelcrazy Don't let ship PE spook you Joe, Really. 1/700 seems more dificult than 1/350 but it's not. If your ship comes out half as nice as your planes, it will be a show stopper.
Thanks Scott. Nearly missed your update. Well. all I know is that your "neorosurgery" is turning out a masterful piece of ship building. Your ship really is turning into a beautiful example of modeling.
Calling all knowledge...Does anyone know where I can purchase 1/350 USN open chocks?
I know that Corsair Armada at one time made some generic open chocks (PN# 350-002) and White Ensign made some modern Fairleads (chocks) (PN# PE3511). The problem is I cannot locate any on the web for sale.
I even looked into Shapeways but the closest thing I could find was Royal Navy Tribal Class Fairleads but they wanted $20.00 for only 6; not going to go there.
According to the ships drawings, the USS Arizona has 28 of them (14 each side). The kit and my PE have none.
Anyones expertice is greatly appreciated.....
Ben
Sorry drums can't be of help there. Try over at modelwarships.com tons of research info there including suppliers.
on my end got started on the waves today. Medium gel coat down. If I've got this right next is to add another coat of paint, some turquoise included, and then put the first coat of varnish on. Lay some fine cotton in this layer and then bury it in subsequent layers to build the effect. Gonna be fun. Time consuming i think tho. Model Crazy how long do you let each layer dry?
Mongoose: That looks beautiful!!!
Ben: Sorry, no idea here.
Pretty interesting dio there.
AFA as open chocks, maybe you can make them.
Punch 1/16" circle from thin styrene. cut in half. Figure out how to cut a little notch in it.
GM: Nice idea, I was thinking something like that or even small dia. solder bent to shape?If I come up with an easy to replicate process I will share it. For now yours looks like the best option.
Mongoose: That is really looking good...
Mongoose: Your water dio is looking great. Looking forward to any updates on further progress.
GM: Nice idea on the shields. They should look sharp.
Ben: Yeah, I'm afraid I'm no help in your endeavors either. Good luck though.
I'm making slow but, steady progress on my 20mm guns. A good bit of careful cutting and sanding has been involved in getting them to look more the part. I will post pics later on to show the undertaking. Hopefully I get to the point of gluing the barrels to the shields/pedestals this evening.
Ben, I'd go with GM's advice. Strangely and frustratingly, 1/350 items such as chocks, bits and anchor chain is mostly non-existant although they would be eaten up by ship modlers.
Mongoose, that's really looking good. Remember though that ship and boat wakes will last for some time and slowly fade out. The bigest mistake I see on seascapes are the odd looking lack of wake distance and wave action frequency. Don't forget that your landing craft, while moving far slower that the pictures, will still produce a considerable wake for some distance.
To answer your question regarding drying time, I will typically wait at least 12 hours, depending on how much or how thick I applied it. Then it might take a few days to dry.
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