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Ships of the American Flag GB 2019 -2021

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  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 10:24 PM

goldhammer

Went back and looked at the pic of the box.  1991 version.  Two twin 5" mounts for sure in the artwork that I could see.  Probably not going to have all 10 of them

If there are options the instructions should point them out.

 

Sorry to say there is only one option that the kit offers and that is if you want waterline or not. I read somewhere that the kit is definitely post ww2.

Here is a review of the kit...

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=8nrDPhRV6fQ

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 6:31 PM

Went back and looked at the pic of the box.  1991 version.  Two twin 5" mounts for sure in the artwork that I could see.  Probably not going to have all 10 of them

If there are options the instructions should point them out.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 5:01 PM

goldhammer

If yours still has 5, 5"/38 twin turrets on each side between the main batteries, then that is what she had originally.  Then just a matter of losing the missles and beehives then throwing some AA at her.  In that scale they shouldn't be real noticeable except to a rivet counter at a show.

 

GH, me being a greenhorn, that sounds like Greek. Lol. But hey, I will take a look  because that is how we learn, by tasking ourselves. 

Wrath of Khan: He tasks me. He tasks me, and I shall have him. I'll chase him to the moons of Nibia and round the Antares maelstrom and round the Perditions flames...

 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 4:41 PM

If yours still has 5, 5"/38 twin turrets on each side between the main batteries, then that is what she had originally.  Then just a matter of losing the missles and beehives then throwing some AA at her.  In that scale they shouldn't be real noticeable except to a rivet counter at a show.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 4:36 PM

goldhammer

If your kit is post 90's refit, for a WWII version the harpoon launchers and cwis beehives have to go.  Don't remember if any of the 5"/38 mounts went away then or not but think at least 2 per side did.  Then need to put back all the 20 and 40 mounts.

 

Yeah, sounds like a lot of work. I think I'll pass. Thanks though!

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 10:38 AM

Almost wonder if it wouldn't be easier to buy a Missouri and convert to WW2 Wisky.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 10:33 AM

If your kit is post 90's refit, for a WWII version the harpoon launchers and cwis beehives have to go.  Don't remember if any of the 5"/38 mounts went away then or not but think at least 2 per side did.  Then need to put back all the 20 and 40 mounts.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 9:21 AM

goldhammer

At that scale I'd probably call it good with railings, but maybe radar antennas if available.  But those are going to be a bear if your fingers, eyes and coordination is anything like mine...blind as a bat and 15 thumbs in place of fingers.  

Tweezers will be your best buddy in either case

 

Good input GH. Surprise  Thanks everyone, you guys helped.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 9:19 AM

modelcrazy
PE really makes a 1/700 pop, but like GH said at that scale they do get tiny. If you go with it, railing would be the least. Radars, ladders and even wood decks can really make a diffrence. If your intrested I'd look for the Missouri, Iowa etc for PE sets or they make generic rails, US radars and such.

Good input Steve. I will do this.

 

modelcrazy
BTW, I measured the ohms on a 1/350 5" barrel. Not the same as a 1/700 16" but it mightgive an idea. It ohmed out at .4 ohms. I think GM's idea of using the barrels as a conductor is certantly worth a try.

Very interesting and good to know! I will keep this in mind as I move forward.

My plan is to make the barrels using brass tubing. I ordered three sizes that should allow me to closely mimic the guns as depicted in the kit. With them being tubes, I ought be able to run a small wire through them. Building the barrels will probaly be more work, but I do enjoy fabricating things. And if running wires does not work, I can do other options that Bill mentioned.

I am eager to test it, just waiting on the shipment. 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Tuesday, July 23, 2019 8:50 AM

GMorrison
See what comes in your kit. Reviews suggest there is no PE in the kit, which is a little unusual but it's an older kit.

I had already checked that, nothing came with. Sad

GMorrison
Probably any set for Iowas will be fine. The thing would be WW2 era versus modern refit, there's a lot of difference of course in the electronics. If you are building the "1991" kit, it can't easily be backdated ot earlier period as the weapons other than the big rifles are all pretty different. So look for what you need in terms of era.

That makes sence. I wish that I had the patience, and more than that the knowledge base to know what needs changing to make it WW2 era. WW2 would be my preference, but as is is fine too. No way I want to spin my wheels trying to figure all that out. Maybe someday I will brave something like that. 

GMorrison
always like Gold Medal sets for their workability or Tom's for the price.

Good to know. I wondered about what is good. Yes

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, July 22, 2019 10:49 PM

See what comes in your kit. Reviews suggest there is no PE in the kit, which is a little unusual but it's an older kit.

Yes, it's important to consider adding.

Probably any set for Iowas will be fine. The thing would be WW2 era versus modern refit, there's a lot of difference of course in the electronics. If you are building the "1991" kit, it can't easily be backdated ot earlier period as the weapons other than the big rifles are all pretty different. So look for what you need in terms of era.

I'm no expert let alone knowledgable about the Iowas. I built a bunch of them as a kid, the old Revell kit. 

But I always like Gold Medal sets for their workability or Tom's for the price.

It would seem (pun intended) that decks are available too.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, July 22, 2019 10:44 PM

Mach71, that sounds great. Your Hunley turned out great and was a fun entry to the sub build.

I got you down for a scratchbuild.

I does look like most of the Space Race GB is over here now.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, July 22, 2019 10:36 PM

PE really makes a 1/700 pop, but like GH said at that scale they do get tiny. If you go with it, railing would be the least. Radars, ladders and even wood decks can really make a diffrence. If your intrested I'd look for the Missouri, Iowa etc for PE sets or they make generic rails, US radars and such.

BTW, I measured the ohms on a 1/350 5" barrel. Not the same as a 1/700 16" but it might give an idea. It ohmed out at .4 ohms. I think GM's idea of using the barrels as a conductor is certantly worth a try.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Monday, July 22, 2019 10:00 PM

At that scale I'd probably call it good with railings, but maybe radar antennas if available.  But those are going to be a bear if your fingers, eyes and coordination is anything like mine...blind as a bat and 15 thumbs in place of fingers.  

Tweezers will be your best buddy in either case

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Monday, July 22, 2019 9:06 PM

Gentlemen, help a novice ship builder out. What PE would you recommend i get for my USS Wisconsin 1:700? At this scale, what would make sense to get? If anything, or is it not worth the effort?

  • Member since
    January 2019
  • From: Southeast Kentucky
Posted by The Drifter on Monday, July 22, 2019 8:35 PM

modelcrazy

Speaking of changing the first kit, I have decided to swith from the NC to the 1/350 Dragon Spruance. I have PE for it and it shouldn't take too long, realtively speaking, to complete.

It's actually a replacement for a kit I started 20 years ago but didn't have the skillset to complete.

And yes, it will have a water base.

 

Oh boy Steve...That is a nice kit, and I am going to enjoy watching you build her, and a water diorama...boy oh boy!! 

Jeff

 

On The Bench: Coming Soon

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: Boston
Posted by mach71 on Monday, July 22, 2019 8:09 PM

Hmm, I don't build ship models. Well except for the H.L. Hunley I built for the submarine GB, but that could hardly be called a ship.

 

A friend sent me a hat from the USS Blueback, SS-581 from the '60s and I've been doing some reading about her. But there is no kit of the Barbel class. 

Then I got to thinking, Never a good idea, It's a contemporary of the USS Skipjack. Both hulls are based on the USS Albercor reaserch submarine.

So I posed the question over at the ship section.

Could the Blueback be bashed from a Skipjack kit? The consensus was yes! 

 

If I start with the old Aurora 1/230 scale Skipjack (13in) It will scale out very close to a 1/200 Blueback. The sail and tailfins will need to be reworked, but it might be doable. 

 

So all this is a longwinded way of asking. Please sir, may I join the group build?

I thought of building the same kit as Mach1, but thats probably putting too much strain on the space/time contimuum. 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, July 22, 2019 3:36 PM

Speaking of changing the first kit, I have decided to swith from the NC to the 1/350 Dragon Spruance. I have PE for it and it shouldn't take too long, realtively speaking, to complete.

It's actually a replacement for a kit I started 20 years ago but didn't have the skillset to complete.

And yes, it will have a water base.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Monday, July 22, 2019 9:04 AM

GMorrison

A glue bomb  from eBay, Revell kit of a supercarrier hull.

A Revell flatbottom carrier from the mid fifties (both the kit and the ship).

What could he have in mind?

 

 

 

Umm, Star Blazers: Space Carrier Midway 2199?  Big Smile

 Bruce

 

 On the bench:  1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF

                        1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Monday, July 22, 2019 8:57 AM

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, July 22, 2019 12:49 AM

GMorrison

I'm adding a model which will come first. Details to follow.

 

So what's here? Morrison's Third Law of Modeling:

"No matter the size of the bench, the available work space will always be exactly two square feet"

Beyond that, and ignoring the CL hull at the top;

A glue bomb  from eBay, Revell kit of a supercarrier hull.

A Revell flatbottom carrier from the mid fifties (both the kit and the ship).

What could he have in mind?

 

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, July 21, 2019 11:34 AM

goldhammer

Hoping to do that, just to see if it's possible.  Besides, old fumble fingers will prob break 2 of them getting the shields off. Embarrassed  Going on a week's trip today so will have to wait till I get back.  My lady's buss driver retirees bunch do a 10 day RV campout every year.  Taking the coach this time around.  

Taking the Santa and Airfix GB projects with me to fill in dead time.

 

It sounds like the trip could be fun! Enjoy!

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Sunday, July 21, 2019 11:06 AM

Hoping to do that, just to see if it's possible.  Besides, old fumble fingers will prob break 2 of them getting the shields off. Embarrassed  Going on a week's trip today so will have to wait till I get back.  My lady's buss driver retirees bunch do a 10 day RV campout every year.  Taking the coach this time around.  

Taking the Santa and Airfix GB projects with me to fill in dead time.

  • Member since
    July 2014
  • From: Franklin Wi
Posted by Bakster on Sunday, July 21, 2019 10:04 AM

goldhammer

Heard back from the man who makes the 20's.  He didn't give any suggestions for trying to straighten.  Said to send pics to Shapeways service center and they would send replacements.

Now that's taking care of his buyers!!

 
 

If they don't make you send the old ones back, you should try heating them and see if you can bend them back. I'd bet you can straighten them out. Then you'd have an extra set, and we'd know if it's fixable. 

Glad they'll send a new set, it is the right thing to do.

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, July 21, 2019 9:38 AM

Yes

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, July 20, 2019 11:57 PM

I'm adding a model which will come first. Details to follow.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Saturday, July 20, 2019 12:30 PM

Heard back from the man who makes the 20's.  He didn't give any suggestions for trying to straighten.  Said to send pics to Shapeways service center and they would send replacements.

Now that's taking care of his buyers!!

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, July 17, 2019 2:01 PM

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/171539.aspx

Thank you, Goldhammer. I just remembered that I have the Trumpeter 1/144 Gato kit from the build which I never got around to. I had lost track of all of the research that was done. I look forward to your BIG build.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Wednesday, July 17, 2019 1:52 PM

GM:  look on page 3 of the GB's...official submarine warfare GB.

HF: no idea what he uses for material...kind of looks like a nylon type stuff.  Going to message him and see what he suggests.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Wednesday, July 17, 2019 1:48 PM

GH,

Those guns look fantastic! Do you know what plastic Shapeway uses for their prints? PLA? ABS? PLA can warp when it's printed at too high a temperature, so I imagine it can be reshaped by heating it up. 

I bought a 3D printer, so, I'm going to be doing more experimenting soon! 

 Bruce

 

 On the bench:  1/48 Eduard MiG-21MF

                        1/35 Takom Merkava Mk.I

 

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