Do you have the link to that GB? I can't find it. There was a useful conversation about Wahoo, the Revell kit and the differences between Government boats and Private Shipyard boats.

They are ready for paint and will look even better then.  You can't really see the detail in the clear.  I've got his 1/144 versions for another Gato and they are the same quality.  PJ used them on a 1/144 build (the submarine GB awhile back) he did and they were just beautiful when painted.

Wow GH, those printed guns look amazing!!! 

Full fresh bats in just in the past few days, only about 6 pics on them.  Showing full charge on the indicator.

I know they harden up with UV in the sunlight, don't know if I should try hairdryer or warm water......open to suggestions from anyone who has messed with that material.

Wow, those are great GH, be careful of streightening those barrels, the plastic they use can be brittle.

Sounds like a freshly charged battery would be the next thing to try.

I did that, along with the chip as well.  Lens only extends about half way, and get an occasional grind of the gears jumping.  Tells me to turn off and back on, but won't retract lens when you turn it off, and get the same message when turned back on.

The 20's were around $12 each and the 4" was about $28.  Well worth it to me for what the boat will represent.

GH, youre not kidding! Those look great! 

Ugh, about the camera. Try pulling the battery and putting it back in and retry. Just maybe it will reset things. 

A little teaser for what's coming.... Here is the deck hardware for the Gato...

4"/50cal.

The 20mm's.  Going to have to cut off the shields and straighten the barrels, but they are nice ones...

From Shapeways

And the kicker is when I put the chip back in the camera it now won't extend the lens out.  Going to have to replace the little thing, or send it in to Fuji for repairs....

goldhammer

The deck hardware just arrived....the 4"/50 is a work of art in it's own right. The 20's are beauties as well. but have to cut off the shields and see about straightening a couple of the barrels.

The 5"/51 isn't bad either, but the 4" knocks it out of the park.

Will get some pics today and get them up.

 

GMorrison

I'm currently building a 1/700 model of USS Juneau, CL(AA) 52. As an anti-aircraft ship, her primary armament is 16 5" guns in eight dual mounts. The plastic barrels scale about 18" in diameter, and because of the unsually high barrel count, a brass set would add up.

I was looking for 0.010" wire that comes in straight pieces, but it's so thin it's hard to see so I settled on 0.020".

 

I’m ready for this GB !

The deck hardware just arrived....the 4"/50 is a work of art in it's own right. The 20's are beauties as well. but have to cut off the shields and see about straightening a couple of the barrels.

The 5"/51 isn't bad either, but the 4" knocks it out of the park.

Will get some pics today and get them up.

I'm currently building a 1/700 model of USS Juneau, CL(AA) 52. As an anti-aircraft ship, her primary armament is 16 5" guns in eight dual mounts. The plastic barrels scale about 18" in diameter, and because of the unsually high barrel count, a brass set would add up.

I was looking for 0.010" wire that comes in straight pieces, but it's so thin it's hard to see so I settled on 0.020".

modelcrazy

No problem Capt, I encourage discussion amoungst my staff.

 

No problem Capt, I encourage discussion amoungst my staff.

GMorrison

At 1/700, a sixteen inch rifle barrel is about 0.035 inches outside diameter.

Bill, I measured the guns and your .035 OD looks right. At the narrowest point I measure them at 1/32, or .031, and they expand as you move back. I didn’t mic it, eyeballed it with a ruler, so your .035 is right in there.

I did a few practice cuts on scrap and I am pretty confident that trenching is out of the picture. I think they’d fall apart in the process. Drilling is out too. We are talking about a part near 1mm in diameter.

However, I may have hit on a better solution with less unknowns. I found that K&S Engineering sells brass tubing as small as 1 mm OD. 1mm = .0394 inches. We are talking thousands of an inch difference, doubtful it would be noticed. I can fabricate the barrels from that. And I checked to see if wire will make it through them, and it certainly should. I will need to use magnet wire, about 30 to 32 awg. It is unclear if I can run two wires through a barrel, doubtful, but we already established other methods to get around that.

Long story short, this looks doable.

Sorry Admiral if I am jumping the gun on all this. You guys lit a fire in me, or should I say, you lit a fire on my USS Wi. KABOOM!

The 2mm stuff is going to be just under 0.079 inch in diameter. Might just as well call it 0.08 to fit it through a drilled barrel.

If you figure a 20" diameter muzzle 16" bore and 2" wall..... that is 0.057 diameter.

Don't know what actual wall thickness is at muzzle is though.

hogfanfs

Thank you for the offer, Bakster, but, I already ordered the combo pack. Granted it wasn't due to this tread, I was looking to test for a couple other projects, and ordered it this morning. Well, now I will be a a lot more skeptical when I test it. Thank you for your advice on this side glow. 

 

Bakster

 Hey Bruce, I hate to be a negative nelly but I had just tried the side glow fiber optic on my X1 build, and I was very disappointed with the stuff. It barely produces a glow. In fact,  in my opinion, it is marginally better than the regular stuff. 

I tell ya what though. If you have not ordered any yet, I can send you a sample via snail mail to keep, no charge. You can play around with it and see how it works for you. If interested, shoot me a PM with your mailing address. I’ll be happy to send you some. I might even have the size you want.

 

hogfanfs

 

 

goldhammer

In 1/700, for the 360* effect, was why I was thinking the fiber optic.  Can put the LED in the hull, wiring out the base mount or in the foam board in a water scene. Might have to dip the optic in CA to get stiff enough to stay straight, paint the outside until you get to the blast effect area. If the end is held right close to the LED should get a subtle effect, rather than and overpowering one from the LED in the smoke/flame.  More appropiate for the scale I think.

Good ideas coming on it for someone to try in both 1/700 and 1/350. 

 

 

 

 

And this is where I was thinking of trying the side glow fiber, check it out here. 

Have the fiber extend past the barrel a couple mm. But, I'm not sure a 2mm diameter piece will be small enough to run through the barrel (1/350). But, it's worth testing. 

 

Hey Bruce, I hate to be a negative nelly but I had just tried the side glow fiber optic on my X1 build, and I was very disappointed with the stuff. It barely produces a glow. In fact,  in my opinion, it is marginally better than the regular stuff. 

I tell ya what though. If you have not ordered any yet, I can send you a sample via snail mail to keep, no charge. You can play around with it and see how it works for you. If interested, shoot me a PM with your mailing address. I’ll be happy to send you some. I might even have the size you want.

Those little foot tall FO christmas trees have fine tubes in them, under 2mm, if they would give off enough side light,  possibly if the tip end is painted.

goldhammer

In 1/700, for the 360* effect, was why I was thinking the fiber optic.  Can put the LED in the hull, wiring out the base mount or in the foam board in a water scene. Might have to dip the optic in CA to get stiff enough to stay straight, paint the outside until you get to the blast effect area. If the end is held right close to the LED should get a subtle effect, rather than and overpowering one from the LED in the smoke/flame.  More appropiate for the scale I think.

Good ideas coming on it for someone to try in both 1/700 and 1/350. 

 

And this is where I was thinking of trying the side glow fiber, check it out here. 

Have the fiber extend past the barrel a couple mm. But, I'm not sure a 2mm diameter piece will be small enough to run through the barrel (1/350). But, it's worth testing. 

In 1/700, for the 360* effect, was why I was thinking the fiber optic.  Can put the LED in the hull, wiring out the base mount or in the foam board in a water scene. Might have to dip the optic in CA to get stiff enough to stay straight, paint the outside until you get to the blast effect area. If the end is held right close to the LED should get a subtle effect, rather than and overpowering one from the LED in the smoke/flame.  More appropiate for the scale I think.

Good ideas coming on it for someone to try in both 1/700 and 1/350. 

modelcrazy

 

If there is this many for a American GB, imagine how many for the Greman next year.

 

Only have 2 in the pile....Dragon's Scharnhorst and the Graf Z carrier.  Hmmmmm.

GMorrison

A model railroad trick, like a signal light tower. You can also use the tube as one leg and an insulated wire inside it as the other.

 

After adding Drums, I just realized the number of entrants 

If there is this many for a American GB, imagine how many for the Greman next year.

You guys are great. This is gonna be another fantastic GB.

A model railroad trick, like a signal light tower. You can also use the tube as one leg and an insulated wire inside it as the other.

I never thought of the barrel as a conductor, I'm not sure the resistance would be high enough on a 1/700 barrel to make much diffrence but I could be wrong. The trench idea with single wires is a great idea as well, and you're right Bakster, the LED's need to radiate 360 deg for the proper effect.

Drums, buddy, I saw your post amongst the discussion and I'll get you down. Welcome aboard