Captains,

This weekend didn't go anywhere near like I envisioned. Friday my new dog had some problems with his surgery area from being neutered and I had to take him into the Vet, $170 out there, then the "new" truck I bought, a 1984 Dodge Ram 3/4 ton in great condition for $900 (a steal BTW), died on me after filling it up. The Battery turned turtle and completely died so I replaced it, another $130. I'm thinking the alternator is the problem and need to put a meter on it, maybe another what $40? then my granddaughter called me all distraught because the police puller her over due to a suspended license she wasn't aware of. I she said she paid a citation but now there is some confusion about that . Oh, the young.

By some miracle I was able to get some time on the Spruance. I usually complete the superstructure on ships before attaching them to the hull but in this case, it seemed wiser to complete the whole thing, or at least most of it minus the masts.

I started the base with the blue Styrofoam. So far not supper pleased with it but like any material it'll require its own technique. It is more difficult to cut than the hard Styrofoam I usually use and the grill lighter method of making swells didn't work as well as it does on my favorite material. That just means I'll have to come up with a different way of doing things for it.

After assembling the hull, I removed the sonar bulge. I don't think she'll be searching for subs on my shelf so no loss there. Besides, I can use it on some kitbash project in the future.

Next, I cut out the material I needed then drew out the hull form. I then cut out the form (very difficult, or should I say not as easy as the hard but about the same as the standard Styrofoam). I then drew out the wake I wanted and used a combination od a grill lighter and sand paper to get the initial wake and swells I wanted, again not as pleased as with the hard stuff but it worked. The later addition of additional Styrofoam, paper and acrylic gel will smooth things out and allow me to add where I want, which I'll do after I complete most of the kit.

That's all for now.

Ouch! Hope things sort themselvies out Steve! In any case great job there on the base, she's coming along great! 

It looks really good, Steve. That dynamic a sea calls for a little pitch and a little roll, something that's hard to  do with waterline kits.

I hope Doggie recovers fully too. As for the truck, well if it's what you say it still sounds like a good deal.

Make sure the GDaughter goes to her court hearing. You and the dog may want to take her in the fixed up truck.

Bench tiome is precious. I had to spend the day Saturday taking my 88 year old mother to the doctor. And a follow up in two weeks.

I've spent what time I have carving off railings. I don't have any PE yet and I don't want to spend much on this old kit, but I am sure I've got some somewhere. Won't take much.

Thanks GM, I was going to add a little roll. I didn't want to go with that high of seas so I may tone it down some with the acrylic gel and Styrofoam shavings. the technique I use for the other stuff worked a little too well with the blue. Of course, I could make another one, I have plenty.

Admiral, sorry to hear about the life issues. 

I echo GMs comments about your sea sculpt in that you have created a nice roll to them. Can I ask what tool you are using to gouge those out? If gouge is the proper term...

As for me, no progress to report. My plan to work on fabricating the guns is on hold. It turns out that one of the brass tubes I had ordered is too small. I never thought I’d be saying too small when considering how small these really are. I thought the reverse would be true in that I’d never find one small enough!

This amplifies my need to invest in a micrometer. I had measured the piece several times using a ruler but somehow, my eyes failed me. Not willing to give up on in the direction I was going, I have found and ordered a set of tubing that seems to offer what I need. Until then, I will find something else to work on.

Thanks Bakster.

My tool of choice is fire LOL. I use a grill or BBQ lighter and move it around randomly to let it create the swells and wake. Outside of course. I do use an Xacto blade to cut out the hull. 

More to come on this. I try to follow the Kelvin wake pattern.

modelcrazy

My tool of choice is fire LOL. I use a grill or BBQ lighter and move it around randomly to let it create the swells and wake.

Oh wow... too funny. Last night I spent an hour looking for video using that technique. When I finally found the guys post, the links were dead. Blah! I was interested in trying this, and now you post yours having used that process. This is serendipity at work.

In my mail today came PE; pumps are getting primed.

Here is a novice question about ships: In the image you can notice ports all along the hull. What function do they serve? 

My question is: what are all of those vertical bars? They don't appear on the ship in Norfolk nearly in the quantity on the model.

As for those round features, I also have no idea. The ship does have a whole series of what seem to be drain pipes sticking out along the hull, but in no way down by the waterline.

GMorrison

My question is: what are all of those vertical bars? They don't appear on the ship in Norfolk nearly in the quantity on the model.

As for those round features, I also have no idea. The ship does have a whole series of what seem to be drain pipes sticking out along the hull, but in no way down by the waterline.

 

You are right, what are those bars. Now that I am looking closer I don’t see the bars and I concur about the drain pipes. The features on the model don’t seem to match the actual ship. WTH. Shaking my head.

This photo is good for showing the actual features.

Sorry about the life issues Steve, Hopefully things will turn soon.

I really like your water! looks great!

I've been doing research, I stopped by the Blueback in Portland today.

One question down. The tail has the "H" configuration I had read about. The diagram lists them as sonar/hydrophones.

The sail is more complicated than photo's I've seen online.

The bow looks very rounded

Monday night I finally had a chance to sit down at the bench.

Top: the first of two back-to-back angles glued to the underside of the flight deck. Aircraft carrier models can get crooked if the flight deck is securely clamped down on the hangar deck sidewalls, as those are never all level. I prefer to make the flight deck rigid, attach it, and fill in any visible gaps.

Middle: in similar fashion, the upper hull and hangar walls are all assembled, braced and made square.

Bottom: the lower hull is three parts. The rear two thirds actually fit well to the upper hull. I try not to do too much spreading or compressing as the stress will lead to warping later. Mike Ashey suggested that he caused himself problems by not dry fitting the sections without any force.  I'll glue the several sections together with the splines as shown, clamped flat to the bench so that the keel is straight and level. Then I'll attached the rigid assembly to the upper hull.

Bill

Sorry guys, I tried to respond last night but the site was off line, as Elizabeth said would happen.

Bakster, it looks like the artist took some liberties with his artwork, but the picture you provided give a great look at the hull, including the hull plating. I don't have a clue what those bumps are that look like rivits. Just to be clear, they aren't rivits. I may have to do some reserch to see what they might be.

Mach71, I didn't know the Blueback was in Portland. Definitely Portland BTW, try driving a simi truck in that city . Some good refrence there.

GM, great idea using a piece of angle as a flight deck stiffner. I hadn't thought of that before.

modelcrazy

Bakster, it looks like the artist took some liberties with his artwork, but the picture you provided give a great look at the hull, including the hull plating. I don't have a clue what those bumps are that look like rivits. Just to be clear, they aren't rivits. I may have to do some reserch to see what they might be.

Hey Steve-- I found a few more images last night and one that seems to show the vertical bars. Access to the forum dropped out and I was not able to post them. In the images the bars are barely visible. They are much flatter than what the kit produced. I think the kit way over-scaled em. Regarding the bumps/rivets, and I am still unclear about it. They might be the drainage ports, but if they are--they seem to be located in the wrong place. Still not sure about that one. It's looking like some body work is in the offing. I will post the images tonight. 

And here is the image showing the vertical bars. You may need to enlarge it to see better detail. 

nice pics of that sub. Well those builds are moving along Im  definitely out of my comfort zone with sea going vessels .I will give this my best shot..

MC..she is at OMSI on the Willamette, just upriver from the Morrison bridge on I5.

You guys are getting a great start on projects.

Bakster, they almost look like hull plate stiffners. It will nake someone more knowledgeable like GM to decifer what they are.

GH, Thanks for the update, I'll have to make plans next time I'm in Portaland.

Nick, That's it, get outa that comfort zone, you'll be fine.

Just heard from Shapeways on the warped 20's.  They looked at the pics and are re-printing them at no charge.  Should have within a week or so.

Now that is great customer service.

That's fantastic GH,

I like Shapeways, the prices are decent depanting on the artist as well.

Great work there guys! 

GH: Congrads! Hope the replacement parts do the job! 

Hey guys, this GB is really off to a great launch.  I need to get my current project out of the yards so I can start on this GB project.  I am pretty excited.

It'll be great to see you start my friend. Take the time you need, you have plenty of it.

modelcrazy

Bakster, they almost look like hull plate stiffners. It will nake someone more knowledgeable like GM to decifer what they are.

That makes sense, Steve. Whatever they are, they appear to be grossly out of scale when compared to the actual ship. My plan is to knock them down to where they are barely visible. Heck, I could get rid of them all together and I don't think it would be out of keeping for the scale. I will try to leave a semblance of them.

Regarding the ports, I can't find any explanation for why the manufacturer did them as they did. In truth, I am not even sure they are a planned structure. For all that I know, maybe they are sink marks. This is a one-piece hull, maybe it produced challenges for the making. Anyway--I don't see a good reason for leaving it as is and I will fill them in.

Speaking of grossly out of scale, so is the decking. Ugh! I'll have to do something about that decking. Unfortunately, the superstructure is molded to the deck and that will complicate things. I am getting ahead of myself though.

Btw... I received the new set of brass tubing and I am happy to report that they are the perfect size. I will begin fabricating the guns whilst I repair the hull.

From the USS Wisconsin shipyard, this concludes my 8/9/2019 report.   

If you're intrested, you can find a wood deck near $10 and up with shipping. I've tried several manufactures and they all work well and look great.

modelcrazy

If you're intrested, you can find a wood deck near $10 and up with shipping. I've tried several manufactures and they all work well and look great.

 

1. Do they take stain and or washes?

2. I imagine using these elevates the deck height. Do you have to remove or knock down the plastic deck?

The wood is EXTREMELY thin, almost like paper. I believe you can stain it, it is actual wood. No cutting needed but in 1/700 scale some of the deck detail, like stirage boxes and such will lose some hight detail, not really noticable though. Do try to find one for the Wisconsin, a deck for the New Jersey, Missouri and such won't fit because each ships deck were a little diffrent.

Artwox, Blue Ridge, Pontos make excelent quality decks, Hunter, from China, is fine and the fit is perfect, but you may need to apply a little extra glue to keep some small areas from bubbling up. Their glue isn't the highest quallity but the price reflects that. Hunter will sometimes add some deck details such as anchor chain and PE hose reels.

modelcrazy

The wood is EXTREMELY thin, almost like paper. I believe you can stain it, it is actual wood. No cutting needed but in 1/700 scale some of the deck detail, like stirage boxes and such will lose some hight detail, not really noticable though. Do try to find one for the Wisconsin, a deck for the New Jersey, Missouri and such won't fit because each ships deck were a little diffrent.

Artwox, Blue Ridge, Pontos make excelent quality decks, Hunter, from China, is fine and the fit is perfect, but you may need to apply a little extra glue to keep some small areas from bubbling up. Their glue isn't the highest quallity but the price reflects that. Hunter will sometimes add some deck details such as anchor chain and PE hose reels.

 

Kentucky Colonel

Speaking about the hull plate stiffeners or what ever they are called. I've seen them in several sets of PE for 350 ships. I've seen some say to scrap off the plastic parts and put the thinner PE parts in their place.