Thanks GS, that explains it very well.

Its coming along nicely.

Your welcome.

There was a package on the doorstep last night when I got home. It had "UK" on it.

Mmmm, I said to myself, this must be from Bish!

Thanks mate! Now I can get back on it and get it completed.

I also received, from England as well, some new Revell Aqua paints. I sprayed the clear gloss on the Apache and will start to install the decals...and the broken missing parts  tonight.

I think I'm goint to like the Aqua paints. The packaging is a little screwy, just a box with a jar in it, but seems to spray well. I bought gloss red, white, yellow since they are the hardest to spray as well as gloss black and clear.

Harold: That looks really cool. Nice start there! 

Good to see you up and running Harold and nice bit of history.

Once i finish the starboard side of my U-Boat hull, i plan to take a break on it and start anothe rbild for this GB. Not decided yet if i will do the Huey or a Takom Chieftain as i want to finish both before the GB ends.

Started AFV Club 1/35 scale AEC (Associated Equipment Company) British Army Artillery Tractor.

During the 1930's before the outbreak of World War Two, all the major European powers were developing motorized transportation for artillery units. Associated Equipment Company who was designing double-deck buses for Great Britain was asked by the Ministry of War to develop a four-wheel drive artillery tractor to pull 5.5-inch howitzers and 3.7-inch anti-aircraft guns. There were a total of 8,612 of these vehicles produced until 1945.

I completed assembly step 1 and 2 which include the lower engine half and tow cable winch. Steps 3 through 9 will involve the frame, undercarriage, suspension, axels, and wheels.

Harold

Thanks guys. Now that I have the colour right, I'll get back on it as soon as the package arives from jolly ole England.

Thank you so much Bish!

I like it Steve! I'm certainly no expert but she looks like the AH-64s I've seen in photos. 

That looks good to me Steve.

I repainted the Apache last night. How's this color? I used about 50/50 black and OD.

I use a single floresent light so the color is not completly represented here but prety close.

Interesting colour Eric, be nice to see how that comes out with oils and pigments.

Eric: I dunno if it's accurate or not but I love your results. 

it's all good Eric - your model, your call.

On the upside, you got a pretty food working formula for zinc chromate yellow:

regards,

Jack

Progress on the Valentine.

I am not going to obsess about the exact hue of Light Stone. Four companies (AK, Vallejo Model Air, MRP and LifeColor) and none are the same. For a 1941-42 desert tank, I don't think precision is worth a candle. In one article I read about desert camo, the author pointed out that fading was fast and substantial. Add dust and mud to the mix and I'd guess you could get along nicely with any sandy yellow.

So I've done some alterations. The final pic shows the Valentine with yellow ocher and umber filters - definitely tones down the green. The filters went on a matte. I then gave it a gloss (Vallejo acrylic) varnish for a full pin wash of the every panel line and detail. I use Gamblin Fast Matte oils and the excellent Gamsol - the most benign thinning agent for oil paints available. This was not applied across all the surfaces - but selectively. That said, sometimes there was too much paint applied and it was removed with a clean brush dampened with Gamsol. I don't try to get everything off - I'm quite content to leave a little on because it will help give the tanks the soiled look that is essential, in my opinion, for any AFV in combat use.

oilwash by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

Next up will be fading with oils and some serious pigment application. I think I might get a small desert base built too. We'll see.

Eric

Yeah, thanks for the link Jack. 

That manual on camo in NW Europe looks interesting. I may have to spring for it. And I keep promising to do something in the Caunter scheme but never work up the nerve for it. 

Hello Bish, no problem posting the Matador link.

regards,

Jack

I used to use Matador models quite a bit but have never seen that. Thanks jack.

Hi Cliff, glad you were able to make use Starmer's formula. 

He has a set of publications that include drawings of camouflage schemes, and what appears to be actual paint chips pasted onto the pages.  He sells direct through his email, which can be found at the top of this link:

https://matadormodels.co.uk/tank_museum/xcamo_starmer.htm

regards,

Jack

I used the paint formula you posted Jack on the Comet and I've very pleased with the results. 

Still tinkering with the figures. They're about 95% there but I still think they need a little something more... 

Bish, you are probably right.

The observation was made that the black basing adversly changed the main colour, so some consideration might be in order to go with something more friendly like a brown. Maybe even a dark purple for the artist inclined, as that is the complimentary colour of yellow.

regards,

Jack

I think it jst got lost in all the posts of the last few days Jack. Its good to see someone doing some research into British armour colours. I had a hell of a time trying to pin down the right green for modrn stuff, there just isn't anything close to the research thats gone into WW2 German colours.

Interesting what david Nickels said in your first link, about these colours being for the artistic moderler rather than the realistic. Unfortunatly these companies have pushed their stuff and ideas so well, the 2 styles have become confused and almost blended together.

For Light Stone No.61 I'd go with Mike Starmer's research.  Not sure if my post was missed, or am just being ignored, but here is his comment again about AK's version:

"Slightly too dark, should be brighter and needs more yellow."

His suggested mix if you have Tamiya brand:

7 pts XF2 + 2 pts XF59 + 2 pts XF3

https://www.tapatalk.com/groups/missinglynx/viewtopic.php?p=986222#p986222

regards,

Jack

Steve: Good luck! I like what you had before... I really wish modeling had an 'undo' button. I've more than a few times wish I could have went back and left things the way they were. 

Greysnake: Good luck there too, those look really breakable... 

Eric: Hmmmm, I like that. Good going, looking forward to more. 

Here's the base coat put over the "mottle" on the Valentine. I made what I thought was an almost perfect BSC "Light Stone" based on Ak Real Color. However, when put over a "black based" kit, the color turned a bit olive. (Want to make a fast olive drab? Mix black and yellow.)Here's how it looked"

P1020439 by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

The green hue (which is consistent other paint companies version of Light Stone) was modified with a good dose of yellow ochre and umber filters. The change was actually quite noticeable. Coming up are oils, pigments and completion.

P1020440 by Eric Bergerud, on Flickr

Eric

However I did put on filters

That would be great Mate! Just let me know the cost of shipping.

I"ll PM you.

Steve, thats actually not looking to bad. And i think you might be right about the curse. I can send you my second kit if you want, its complete minus the canopy.

Interesting feature GS, i have not heard of sun shields on an AFV. I take it the go over the top of the vehicle.

Thanks GS

Bish, I repainted the Apache with a darker Black Green, over the prviously intaslled decals, but now it seems too greenish and not enough drabish. Tonight I'll add some OD and see if that helps.

On the down side, I'll need to get another kit for the decals and some of the parts that have broken beyond repair.

I'm starting to believe these kits are cursed.