Gamera & Pat, I’m sorry to hear of both of your fathers passings. I do hope that you have plenty of happy cherished memories of them to see you through the heartache.

My condolences, Pat. 

Gamera,

Thanks.  Sorry for your loss too.

Pat

Thanks guys. 

Pat: I'm so sorry to hear that. 

Gamera, my condolences on your father's passing.  My father also passed away last weekend, so I know it can sometimes be a bit tough.

Pat

My condolences about your father, Gamera.  :(  

SP: Thanks! The more I looked at it the more it doesen't look like Korean. As the diagram you posted, Korean doesn't look like anything else. I can't read it but I generally know it when I see it. I did talk to the Chinese/American lady over a week ago but she was really busy and I didn't want to bother her with it. Hopefully next time things will be a little less busy. On the the other hand she's Cantonese Chinese and that's a bit different from Han Chinese- guess I'll find out though. 

John: I have no idea about Hanja... 

Ziggy: Those look cool! I too am wondering how you thin the craft paint to get it to work. I use it on bases all the time but haven't tried it on a model yet with good results. 

And sorry guys, my dad passed away last week. That's why I haven't been on. Too busy and I didn't feel much like posting anything. Hopefully I'm back for awhile now.  

stikpusher

Chinese or Japanese Kanji perhaps. But definitely not Korean Hangul. Korean Hangul alphabet characters are more blocked or rounded. I was told by an army buddy of Korean descent that the Korean Hangul characters are phonic and fewer, and not more numerous and picturesque like Japanese or Chinese. 

 

Could it be Hanja?

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hanja

Ziggy - You’re really startin’ up there! (Boy, I’m late to my own party, if you know what I mean!) 

I’ll add that howitzer to the roster for ya; and nice Skycrane! 

Also, you’re stepping out of the usual there, I see, by not using the typical modeling paint brands! Where did you get the paints, and what do you thin them with? :)

I started the T-34.

What's in the box.

All clean and ready for paint and assembly. 

I got the first set of wheels glued together and just set in place.  I painted the track with a brush.  First color was burnt umber, followed by future, then a highly diluted wash of orange and finaly a dry brush of brown oxide.

More to follow.

I pulled this out of my stash, I'm not going to build the bird, at least not now.  I want the 105 howitzer for my diorama.

So, the M24 Chaffe, T34/85 and the 105 Howitzer in front of a coffee can quonset hut, maybe.

The instructions and parts.

I will replace the end of the barrel with aluminum tube.

Chinese or Japanese Kanji perhaps. But definitely not Korean Hangul. Korean Hangul alphabet characters are more blocked or rounded. I was told by an army buddy of Korean descent that the Korean Hangul characters are phonic and fewer, and not more numerous and picturesque like Japanese or Chinese. 

Small update on my Chaffee.  I got the hull together and the resin wheels with what I think are lightening holes not found on the kit wheels.

The blue color is just the lighting (LED)

No problem. Will keep watching for updates! :)

Thanks John, I hope to have the drips sanded out and the paint touched up this weekend. Cross your fingers... 

You’re plane’s comin’ along, Gamera. :) As for the writing,....the mystery continues...  

BTW: I asked the Korean waitress if she could translate the nose logo. She said it wasn't Korean though. Is it Mandarin Chinese? I dunno. The translator on my phone couldn't make heads or tails of it. I'm going to try to ask a Chinese lady next weekend if she can read it...

I sprayed the black undercoat on for the NM finish for the F-51D. I ended up with a lot of trash in the finish so I sanded it out and went back and resprayed the black, being more careful this time. I did a Zero for my Japanese GB at the same time.

The black undercoat went down a bit grainy so the NM went on with more texture than I wanted. Still I don't really want to sand it down again so I'm going with this. There are two bad places were the paint ran so I'm going to try to sand them out and hopefully I won't have to do the whole thing over again.

Roger that, lewbud.  :) 

John 3:16 KJV

I’ll update the roster! Good choice, lewbud!  

What are the models’ manufacturers, by the way? (Just for the roster.) 

 

Don't know yet, I'll have to check the stash.  If memory serves, I have a HobbyBoss and an Italeri F4U-4 that will work. Will let you know.

I’ll update the roster! Good choice, lewbud!  

What are the models’ manufacturers, by the way? (Just for the roster.) 

Jeaton: Hmmmm, it's a Grex airbrush, maybe I should go back and try cleaning the head. I've had the same issues with my Paasche airbrush, it leaked paint back into the body until I gave the head a really good cleaning and it works fine now. Thanks! 

Lewbud: Ohhhhh that sounds cool! 

I know what I'm going to do for this build.  Put me down for 2 F4U-4 Corsairs from VF-32. One was flown by Lt. jg Thomas Hunder, the other will be Ens. Jesse Brown's. On 4 Dec 1950, while providing close air support for the Marines near the Chosin Reservoir, Ens. Brown was shot down. Lt. Hunder attempted a rescue as Ens. Brown was shot down behind enemy lines and was wounded. Unfortunately, Ens. Brown was pinned in his aircraft and died before the rescue helo could get there. Lt. Hunder was awarded the Congressional Medal of Honor for his actions, and Ens. Brown was awarded the DFC. Ens. Brown was the first African-American Naval officer killed in action in the Korean War.

When I get paint back in the body it's usually because I have blocked the nozzle when the trigger is pressed down, for instance blocking the nozzle to backflush the paint passage.  I quit doing that!  Another thing I do to keep the needle free on the 150 which is suction feed double action, is to put some thinner in the brush holding it upside down and pulling the trigger without pushing it down.  That seems to clean the needle in the seal that is behind the paint entry.  In the Badger air brushes that seal can only be replaced by Badger, not by the user.  I think damage to that seal is usually caused by physical damage or wear, not chemical.  As I said though, I have four Badger brushes and none have been back to Badger for repair.  Mine may be worn there but it doesn't seem to be causing any issues given how I am operating them.

Thanks Jeaton, I'll keep that in mind. Hmmm, the airbrush keeps leaking paint back into the body, I just assumed the seals were bad and lacquer thinner is the strongest thing I've ever used in it. Guess something else is to blame but I'm not sure what else could have done it... 

Cliff, I use Bager 150 and 200 airbrushes and I've been using lacquer thinner for years.  Even if I'm using acrylics I often follow Windex through the airbrush with some lacquer thinner for final cleaning.  I've never had to send an airbrush in for service, but now that I've said too much my luck will probably change.

I’ve never used Alclad before; and frankly enamel paints are my comfort zone. I know I can get bulk thinner for the enamels at hardware stores, and I like the cost effectiveness of that. It’s good that that can be done for Alclad, too. However, the melting of the air brush’s seals couldn’t have been nice. I suppose it is possible that the thinner hurt them. With enamels, I think I learned somewhere that it’s best to avoid getting the thinner on the seals as it could hurt the rubber.

Somewhat of a change in topic, but still about paints and thinners: does anybody know if AmmoMiG’s Acrylic paints be thinned with and cleaned out of air brushes with tap and/or distilled water? 

jeaton01

I always use hardware store lacquer thinner to clean up Alclad.  I've never had to thin any, I use it up too fast.

 

Hmm, that's what this was. So you normally use it? I've been a little afraid to use the stuff. I'm not sure if it destroyed the seals in my airbrush or not but been trying to stay on the safe side.

I always use hardware store lacquer thinner to clean up Alclad.  I've never had to thin any, I use it up too fast.