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Formula One Group Build 2022 - CLOSED

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Sunday, August 28, 2022 11:44 PM

Nice work, Greg.  I don't know what that can is but I'm guessing it's not an evap cannister!

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Sunday, August 28, 2022 6:46 PM

Time for a quick and modest update.

I rethunk the rear springs, and though they are not nearly as cool as RealG's, I'm quite pleased. Last time I painted the whole spring with Tamiya Gold Leaf, then sealed that (unnecessarily, I think), then slopped on some black enamel wash to blacken simulate the piston or whatever.

This time I painted the whole thing black, then masked the 'root' of the thread, if you will with .4mm tape, and then painted the Tamiya gold leaf.

Here's a shot pulling off the masking tape, which was quite gratifying!

If I have a regret, it might be using the Tamiya paint. Notice how clean the black is (it is MRP (Mr Paint) acrylic lacquer) compared to how grainy and yucky-looking the Tamiya acrylic is. It looks fine with regular viewing without the macro, just sayin'.....

My real holdup the past couple of weeks has been about figuring out how to run some fuel lines and add quick disconnects using Detail Master braided fuel/brake line and itsy-bitsy compression fittings. All car engine detailing is new to me, never so much as ran a spark plug wire before this.

I had to make some new fittings. Made this 90 degree from .037 plastruct styrene rod, using my high-tech putty jig. :)

Original kit part and my replacement:

I think it was Don Stauffer once posted that Tamiya clear blue and red works well to paint quick disconnects. I'm sure happy with these, so thanks, Don.

I think they might be a bit out of scale and I might have used the next size smaller, but I'm happy as can be for my first go at this.

 Can anyone tell me what that black cylinder is? The master cylinder for the rear brakes? I'm clueless.

Anyway, I have two more to do coming out of the gas tank, now that I have the confidence to try it, then I can finally move forward.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, August 25, 2022 2:49 PM

Holy cow, John! I had to watch that video a few times just to grasp what was going on! Fastest tire change ever.

The Fujimi 1:20 pit crew surely does compliment the YouTube video! Smile

 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Thursday, August 25, 2022 1:20 PM

Great stuff Ben.

Here's some dio inspiration for you Greg

https://youtu.be/aHSUp7msCIE

And Fujimi makes this 1/20 pit crew!

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, August 25, 2022 9:37 AM

Ben,

Really appreciate you comprehensive answers to all of my questions. That is some useful and valuable information, indeed.

I could comment on each of the completed model pics you posted, beautiful work!! I can't resist saying how much I like the dio of the man working on the F1 car. Brilliant dio, and surprising too....because I guess I didn't really comprehend how relatively small these race cars are in full scale.

I am sorry to have tossed so many questions your way. You sure did a bangup job dealing with them! Smile

Lotus is progressing well, and at a snails pace which is my normal speed. Thanks for reminding me to post something.

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Thursday, August 25, 2022 8:35 AM

Hi Greg, I hope this answers your question to your satisfaction...

All Revival metal body kits come pre-painted. In my experience they are sometimes done well but often require rework. After building several Revival kits I've found many lacking in preparation prior to being painted, such as flash, ejection pin and casting marks, seams, etc. They often lack proper preparation of the body prior to painting that results in poor adhaerance to the metal causing bubbling or a grainy / rough paint surface after application. 

That brings me to your first question. If a pre-painted Revival kit had bubbles under the paint I have to completely strip it off. I normally do that with easy-off oven cleaner. With these cast bodies it may take a couple applications with scrubbing. Afterwards I wash the metal body with a mild dish soap and air dry. On occasion the metal bodies have flaws under the paint so I apply Tamiya filler if needed and then sand them with progressively less coarse sand paper. With these cast bodies I recommend starting with around 800 grit paper and working progressively up to 3800 or 4200 grit. Next I prime the surface to make sure the imperfections are eliminated. I normally I use Tamiya gray primer, but I have on occasion used Rustoleum Red Primer for darker colors. There have been a couple instances that required an etching primer to bite into the metal. Then the primer is lightly sanded with the 3800-4200 sandpaper to reduce the chance of the sanding burning through the primer, leaving bare metal. A final wipe down to remove any sanding debris and blow dry with airbrush air and it's ready for paint.

I still see Revival kits available on various web sites including Ebay. They also have thier own web site; revivalinternational.it (in Italy). As far as Pocher, they no longer actively producing model kits.

The color I ended up using was from a rattle can by Krylon, it was called ALuminum Silver. I found the color to closely match the Auto Union stream line car and CMC colors and it flowed beautifully from the can thus eliminating the need to de-cant it and use the airbrush.

The detailed engines are a product sold by a company called CMC. They sell full die-cast builds, chassis builds, and engine builds all in 1:18. Warning, they are not cheap.

I have not built an MFH kit, but would like to some day. They appear to be a true multi-media type kit with metal, plastic, resin, and other kit parts. From what I can see, they appear to be the gold standard for 1:20 F1 racers along with some Tamiya, Ebbro, and Fujimi.

My talents?, well I hope after 50+ years of persuing the craft that I possess some sort of skills, but I am often humbled by some kits ability to thwart me and often by the builds of others. I get inspiried by builders in this and other forums which pushes me to challenge myself in not only autos but others areas too. I consider myself the average or slightly above average modeler, nothing great.

In fact, I enjoy participating in many of the group builds here and on International Scale Modeler. I find that by working on other type of model kits I learn new techniques that I can apply across the board. Here are a few of my other builds:

As far as gluing metal parts, I use good old CA cement. Sometimes if its a critical strength assembly I solder the metal to metal (depending on the metal medium). On rare occasions I've even used epoxy. 

Great talk... I hope to have more to show on the Auto Union soon. How's your Lotus coming along? 

Ben / DRUMS01

 

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/25 MPC 4-4-0 Steam Locomotive (WIP)

1/16 Andy's Sherman M4A3E8 - DONE

1/32 Revell Arado Ar 196-B Seaplane - DONE - (GB)

1/350 Tamiya Yamato - DONE - (GB)

1/20 Revival Auto Union - DONE - (GB)

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, August 24, 2022 7:48 AM

Ben,

I'm surprised the kit body was pre-painted. Your re-paint is looking very good, and authentically metallic. Unfortunately for you, I have some questions.

How do you prepare/prime your metal parts for paint? (those which are not pre-painted)

I presume Revival Models has gone the way of Pocher and is no more, is that correct?

What paint did you use for the body?

In your initial post back on pg 1, your pics #10 and #11 show super-detailed engines and rear transmission/axle assy's. What kits (and scale) are those?

Have you ever built a MFH (Model Factory Hiro) kit? If yes, would you care to opine?

Are you as talented with other types of car models as you are with the F1 and Grand Prix genres????

Edit: and one more, since you obviously have quite a bit of experience with metal kits; how do you 'glue' metal parts together, or to other, non-metal parts?

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Tuesday, August 23, 2022 2:52 PM

Looks good Ben.  Gotta be happy with that.

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Tuesday, August 23, 2022 2:45 PM

Thanks Greg...

The car finally has paint! And it appear that the progressive sanding down to 3200 grit made a difference over the very grainy factory paint. After sanding I used a tac cloth and air to blow off any greebles that may be finding in the cracks or corners ready to jump out and ruin the paint. So far I am happy with the smooth finish, but I will polish it, apply decals and clear coat before final assembly.

BEFORE PAINT:

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AFTER PAINT:

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Prior to the polish and cleat coat I will need to rework the inside of the body and complete the dash. While the paint is curing I'm working on chassis touch-ups, figure painting, tire scrubbing, etc. More next time, till then, thanks for looking and as always your input is greatly encouraged.

Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/25 MPC 4-4-0 Steam Locomotive (WIP)

1/16 Andy's Sherman M4A3E8 - DONE

1/32 Revell Arado Ar 196-B Seaplane - DONE - (GB)

1/350 Tamiya Yamato - DONE - (GB)

1/20 Revival Auto Union - DONE - (GB)

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, August 22, 2022 4:58 PM

Wow, there is some serious attention to detail. Looks like the same guy.

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Monday, August 22, 2022 4:26 PM

Thanks Greg, though I really like the real car, this one has given me a little more of a challenge than I anticipated; regardless, I'll make it work.

The weather has been terrible (barometric pressure and humidity), so my painting of the metal body is on hold till the next day or so. Till then here is something I've been working on. Yes, everyone, it's a driver figure. 

I saw where one company already makes a 1/18 figure for the CMC Auto Union but it isn't Hans Stuk, and it was expensive! From what I could tell by the 1/18 figures measurements it would not fit in this 1/20 Revival build anyway, so I decided to cut up three existing 1/20 Tamiya figures to make one. The main torso is a seated driver figure. The head is from a 1/18 Elite Force Stuka Pilot and the face profile does indeed look similar to Hans Stuk. The arms are a combination of the crew and driver arms and hands. Extreme modifying was needed to get the right arm to pose as if shifting and the left arm reconfigured and bent with a new hand positioned for the steering wheel. While it's still a "work-in-progress" you can get the idea of where I'm going with it.

I accomplished the mutation by drilling holes into each body part at the joints (shoulder, elbow, and wrist) and inserting a length of solder into both parts of the joint. The solder would allow me to bend/shape the arms and hands before permenantly gluing them into the desired position. Sheet plastic was used to sandwich layers to create parts of the arms not molded in the kits pose. Lots of filing has already been done for the wrinkles in the coveralls, but there is still some fine tuning to finish it. 

The space in the drivers compartment is so tight I had to bend the drivers right hand (at the finger knuckles) into a smaller grip just so he could fit between the dash and rear firewall, and in the seat. Hopefully I'll have much more to show in the next few days....





Image

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/25 MPC 4-4-0 Steam Locomotive (WIP)

1/16 Andy's Sherman M4A3E8 - DONE

1/32 Revell Arado Ar 196-B Seaplane - DONE - (GB)

1/350 Tamiya Yamato - DONE - (GB)

1/20 Revival Auto Union - DONE - (GB)

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, August 19, 2022 4:58 PM

Ben, your progress continues to amaze me. Really nice work. YesYesYes

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Friday, August 19, 2022 1:57 PM

That's coming along great Ben.  It already looks like a million bucks!  Big Smile

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Wednesday, August 17, 2022 4:18 PM

Thanks John....

You know what time it is, it's update time!

First was a step forward, then a step backward. I was satisfied with the fit and details so I began painting the chassis and inside body panels. Looking at period photos it is difficult to tell if the chassis is silver to gray. To show a little variation I decided to paint it a neutral gray and later dry brush the interior panels with silver to bring out the details. 

Here the chassis has been painted along with antique gold for the radiator and light ghost gray for the body of the oil cooler. Once again, looking at photos, the back facing of the wheel appears to be a black/brown mix along with a chrome or polished brake vent. The back of the wheel was a Vallejo pre-mixed color and the chrome brake vent was painted with a chrome Molotow marker.

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Some photos show the oil tank to be the same color as the foot box below it while others show it more of a polished metal and the foot box more the body color. The small tank in front of the oil tank was painted similar to some photos, in brass. The cap for the small tank is a combination of PE and thin solder.

Image 

Everything was going well until I added the engine to the chassis. When applying the screws to the motor mounts and into the chassis I found that the screws would not bite or tap into the chassis. My solution was to use extruded aluminum rod cut to length to fit the screw hole and motor mount, like a guide pin. After some CA cement the engine was firmly attached to the chassis.

That was great except I did not have a third hand to simultaneously insert the shifting rod when installing the engine. Of course the shifting rod is exactly the same full length as the distance between the transmission and gear selector box, leaving no room to manipulate into place. I was able to use debonder to remove the transmission knuckle and then fish the shifting linkage from the gear box, through a hole under the fuel tank, under the axle boot, and into the transmission shifting knuckle. The final step was to add the knuckle back to the transaxle.

Meanwhile, when finishing the inside body panels I found that by adding the spines and ribs inside that I also made it so I could not remove the dash sub-assembly (crap!). I guess that means I will have to detail paint the dash while it is in the car. It will be a little more difficult but it can be done. 

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So now that the engine is attached to the frame and the body panels inside the body I tried to test fit everything (again) only to find that the tight tolerances around the rear axles and transaxle along with the internal body parts would not allow me to fit the body to the chassis. Once I removed the partial axels I could manipulate the back of the body into place but then the front would make contact with the radiator. Likewise, when trying the front first I could fit the front behind the radiator but then the transaxle would not fit under the bodywork. The solution was to tear out the radiators detailed fittings I previously added which then provided a tight but acceptable fit of the body to the chassis. I will have to rebuild the top of the radiator once the body and chassis are one piece.

Here is the chassis with some additional bits added, like the fuel line, etc. Regarding the seam in the fuel tank; it will not be seen once the body is attached to the frame so I didn't bother filling it. The second photo shows the addition of the front brake lines. The lines were made from the jewelry plastic tubing shown in a previous update along with the metal fitting which also came from the Hobby Lobby crafts and beads department.

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It's time to paint the body of the car. After some searching here were my choices: (left) Krylon Aluminum silver (center) Testors German Silver (right) Tamiya silver lacquer. I am going to use the Krylon aluminum silver as it better reflects the non-metallic or non-metal flake color of the real cars. 

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Since today is near 100% humidity I'll most likely wait for the weekend to paint the body. Well, it's nearing the home stretch and I am looking forward to seeing it together. Please feel free to share your thoughts or ideas that might further improve the build. Take care and thanks for looking.

Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/25 MPC 4-4-0 Steam Locomotive (WIP)

1/16 Andy's Sherman M4A3E8 - DONE

1/32 Revell Arado Ar 196-B Seaplane - DONE - (GB)

1/350 Tamiya Yamato - DONE - (GB)

1/20 Revival Auto Union - DONE - (GB)

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Friday, August 12, 2022 5:47 PM

Sounds like Jarrod had a good time.  A birthday with plastic is always a good one.

Nice work on the axles.  This is going to be one of those builds that's too pretty to paint!

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Friday, August 12, 2022 4:29 PM

Greg, many years ago, while the Tyrell 6 wheelers were racing I heard rumors that the governing body of F1 was receiving cinsiderable complaints from its competitors. The three main complaints were (1) an unfair advantage regarding aerodynamics, (2) another unfair advantage during wet racing as the first tires would channel away most the water and the second set would have a mostly dry track meaning better handling, (3) last was the concern of the cost and complexity of the configuration making it difficult for other manufacturers to afford to stay competitive. 

That in turn created a consipiricy when Goodyear would not spend the money to develop the front tires better for the car. That really limited the success of the car and its development. Some said it was the F1 governing bodys way of evening up the field. Eventually they just banned the set-up. 

Time for an update!

First and foremost, Jarrod had a really good 24th birthday party. All told there were around 15 other people here to celebrate with him. That made him happy which makes me very happy. I got him another egg armor model because he really liked the egg tiger he built. 

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This weekend we are going to our friends to help them build a cement paver patio. I guess that means my modeling time will be cut short for a couple days. I don't mind as we will be together with friends and family. I'm also grateful to be healthy enough to be moving brick pavers and the day is suppose to be wonderful; partly cloudy and upper 70's. 

Back to the Auto Union, much like my initial brainstorming for the internal body details my idea for the perforated edge trim under the removable body panels has not gone to plan either. The first attempt was with thin brass but punching the drill bit through it caused the brass to bend and buckle. I also found it difficult to keep a consistent spacing and straight line of hole because the bit wanted to walk on the brass while I was drilling. I know the bits are very sharp so it wasn't that. Then I decided to try it with very thin sheet plastic (not strong enough to support the tight drilling tolerances). Next was the tooling lead, but nothing worked to my satisfaction. Then I remembered the aluminum sheet I found at the home improvement store. It was the same sheet I used to make the Marsden mat for my British SAS jeep, brilliant!

It has the holes pre-drilled and the aluminum was moldable / workable to cut / file / and bend into a facsimile of what I was after. The next challenge was trying to add the part to the kit as the kit seams and ridges beneath the body did not provide an even or straight surface. Thank goodness for small precision hobby files! The photos below are a work in progress, the time invested in those small perforated parts is considerable. While not "perfect" is is close enough for me.

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I also began more work on the radiator and oil cooler. Now that I know how the scratch built internal body panels will fit it gives me the dimensions I needed for adding more scratch items. The oil cooler had semi-fine brass screen fitted while the radiator used part of a kitchen strainer screen. The plastic fitting head was added to the oil cooler in a previous update but I used solid brass rod for the second part of the fitting. They will eventually tie into locations on the car.

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I finally made a commitment on how to fit the rear axle to the engine while simultaneously adding the leading suspension arm through the body, etc. I simply decided to use some wire snippers (pliers) to cut the kit axle in half. Once filed down I pulled a hollow brass rod from my spares that fits snug over the it axle. According to my measurements the brass sleeve will slide over the kit axle and still fit within the body. By cutting the sleeves to a specific length I can rest assured the wheel hubs will be a near perfect 90 degree angle from the chassis thus automatically provide a four wheel alignment, yippie!

Engine with half of axle screwed into transaxle
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Read wheel hub and axle assembly
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photo of engine, axle assy and brass sleeves
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Other than finishing up the perforated holes inside the body it is nearly ready for paint (it's about time, right?)

Till next time be safe, make smart decision, live, laugh, and love well, and model something...

Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

PROJECTS:

1/25 MPC 4-4-0 Steam Locomotive (WIP)

1/16 Andy's Sherman M4A3E8 - DONE

1/32 Revell Arado Ar 196-B Seaplane - DONE - (GB)

1/350 Tamiya Yamato - DONE - (GB)

1/20 Revival Auto Union - DONE - (GB)

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, August 11, 2022 2:04 PM

Thank you, John!

BTW, G, I forgot to mention I enjoyed your info re the history of the 6-wheeled Tyrell. Interesting stuff. Didn't know that 6 wheels were banned. That explains the now we see it, now we don't. Bet it was fun to watch them racing.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Thursday, August 11, 2022 2:00 PM

Greg

...The 1/24 Tamiya Lotus I'm building is sort of a test run to finally break open one of my bigger scale car kits.

 

That's exciting news Greg!  Especially seeing how nice your kit is coming along.

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, August 11, 2022 1:54 PM

Real G
The 1/12 kit is indeed Tamiya and of similar (1970s) vintage.

I'll be. Wonder what's with the German language in the instructions? I'm surprised I didn't stumble across the 1/12 Tamiya kit in my web searches.

The 1/24 Tamiya Lotus I'm building is sort of a test run to finally break open one of my bigger scale car kits.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, August 11, 2022 1:51 PM

wpwar11

 This is what I used over the decals.

 

Thanks, Paul. I think it worked very well.

Oddly, I was just reading a 'top clear coats for modeling' page the other day, and this was right at the top, if not #1.

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Thursday, August 11, 2022 1:23 PM

Greg

The 1/12 instructions do not look like Tamiya, but I don't know of another 1/12 Tyrell kit. Whose is it?

Greg,

The 1/12 kit is indeed Tamiya and of similar (1970s) vintage.  Although to be fair, the 1/20 kit I'm working on is a later issue with additional parts to model a 1977 car versus a 1976 one.  Fujimi makes a fairly new kit of the 1977 "slug car" version of the P34.  It is quite different from the 1976 cars, with a full cowling and oil coolers moved to the front spoiler.

Team Tyrrell constantly worked at tweaking the steering geometry, and in 1977 ended up having to move the wheels out from behind the front spoiler, which negated the drag reduction of hiding them from the airstream.  Goodyear, who made the special small front tires, neglected development during 1977.  There have been allegations Ferrari paid Goodyear NOT to make improvements to the tires, but who knows what went on in the back rooms.  After the 1977 season, the FIA banned six wheel cars so that sealed the P34's fate.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    January 2020
  • From: Maryland
Posted by wpwar11 on Thursday, August 11, 2022 1:04 PM

 This is what I used over the decals.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, August 11, 2022 8:51 AM

Real G

Agreed, excellent work Paul.  My third year models were most certainly glue bombs!

 

That's exactly what I was thinking!

Those blue Indycals over the Camel Yellow are eye-catching for sure, Paul. Nice work! Yes

I'm always curious about clear coats. Did you use one over the top of the decals, and if so, what?

G,

Your post with the 1/12 and 1/24 instructions straightened me out, thanks!!! My 1/24 Lotus Christmas tree parts look to be an exact match with your (1/24th) Tyrell.

I get what you plan to do with poking the fuel lines in the sides of A26..... makes perfect sense now.

It sure is fun having people to help me through my curiousities building this F1 kit. (and mooching off of your research Smile)

The 1/12 instructions do not look like Tamiya, but I don't know of another 1/12 Tyrell kit. Whose is it?

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Wednesday, August 10, 2022 6:53 PM

Agreed, excellent work Paul.  My third year models were most certainly glue bombs!

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Wednesday, August 10, 2022 4:12 PM

Wow Paul that looks fantastic!

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    January 2020
  • From: Maryland
Posted by wpwar11 on Wednesday, August 10, 2022 4:03 PM

  Decided to take a break from the engine assembly and paint and decal the body.  As you can see the 99T used just camel yellow paint.  Indycals were used instead of the old kit decals.  They worked well.  Cut  away the carrier film as close to the color as possible.  There is some visible film that I will minimize.  I have a detail set for the mirrors.

Ive been modeling for about 3 years.  This is my first group build.  The work you guys have posted here have been stunning and inspirational for me.  I love F1 and this has been fun.  

Thanks for looking

your friend,

Paul

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Wednesday, August 10, 2022 1:39 PM

Greg,

OK here are the instruction sheets from Tamiya's Tyrrell P34 in 1/12 (left) and 1/20 (right).

On the 1/12 instructions, parts C3 & C4 make up the fuel injector "Christmas tree".  On the 1/20 instructions, part A26 has them molded integrally without the ports.  I am too lazy to precisely drill 8 holes 45 degrees apart, so I figured paired fuel lines on each side of the cylinder banks would suffice.

Notice how the fuel lines tuck in along the sides of the electrical box, and route under the fuel injection plate.

 

Keavdog,

Sorry for posting a non-GB project (I am trying to get it done before the end of the month).  I'll get onto the Brabham soon!  When I took the photo of the Tyrrell's parts, I thought about the scene in Pink Floyd's "The Wall" where Pink is stoned and is arranging everything in his apartment on the floor.  Indifferent

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Wednesday, August 10, 2022 10:54 AM

Hey Real G!  Looks like you're ready for final assembly and looking very sharp.

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, August 10, 2022 9:57 AM

G,

First, you are a very organized builder! I should learn. Smile

Thanks for all the ideas about wire. I recently bought one of the "Party-packs" (ha!) you refer to from Amazon in 30 gauge. It is both larger and doesn't hold bends as well as Miniatronics 30 gauge (which I had). My yellow ordered directly from Miniatronics finally arrived, now that I don't need it.

What a cool idea about the ejection seat pull loops!

I found a couple sources for insulated wire smaller than 30 gauge on line, I may or may not order some one day.

Thanks for explaining more about the 'Christmas tree'. I'd like to see the detail from the Tyrell instrutions if you get around to it, and I'm still not 100% clear.

Thanks for taking the time to pass along all this info to me, G. Yes

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Tuesday, August 9, 2022 1:26 PM

Greg,

Kynar 30 gauge wire is available in yellow too, which is what I'm using for the Tyrrell's electrical and brake lines.  You can see it connected to the electrical box in this pic:

They also make great ejection seat pull loops too - just wind a spiral of thin tape along a length, paint black, remove tape, et voila!

I noticed the 30 gauge Kynar wire is hard to find in black, but I found some large spools on Amazon.  They are commonly available in "party packs" consisting of small spools of white, yellow, blue, and red.  I have also seen green Kynar wire.

The "Christmas tree" I referred to are the 8 ports that are on the fuel injector barrel, which is the cylindrical thing under the electrical box.  There are 2 segments with 4 ports each, set at 90 degrees from one another.  The two segments stagger the ports so that when viewed from the ends, the ports are 45 degrees to each other.  This is new stuff for me too, as I have not studied it until recently.  I dimly recall an article in a 1970s era magazine (Scale Modeler?) where the author described running his fuel lines as I intend to.  But being a middle school kid at the time, I had no idea what he was talking about.  I'll dig up the 1/12 Tyrrell's instructions to show what it looks like.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

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