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Formula One Group Build 2022 - CLOSED

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  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Tuesday, August 9, 2022 10:16 AM

wpwar11
Did that kit come with the black wires? It looks great.

Yes, it did come with the black wires (wire, actually). I was surprised and impressed. I also don't have the hang of getting the wires where I want them, even though the Tamiya-supplied black wire is isulated stranded wire so it stays where put reasonably well.

Your question led me to confirm what the wire is. Conductor wire is stranded and approx .008-.010" dia. The OD of the insulation is about .020" dia. It was challenging to strip, BTW! I've been searching for something like it but best I've found so far is Miniatronics 30 gauge which is what I used for the yellow wire. (white wire painted yellow with MRP paint. The MRP flexes well with the wire, no cracking or splitting)

Real G
For those building Tamiya cars with the Ford Cosworth V8, there is no fuel injector "Christmas tree" for the fuel lines. I considered making them, but I realized that if you just paired fuel lines under either side of the electrical box and ran the ends to the injector horns, no one will notice! Shhhh, mum's the word. Mum. Mum...

You had mentioned the 'Christmas Tree' in a previous post and I've been scratching my head wondering where mine is, so I'm glad you posted this, G.

Real G
BTW Greg, did your kit come with the decal on top of the electrical box? I had to make one for my Tyrrell.

Yes, included with the decal sheet on the Tamiya 79 Lotus Martini. I also have a set of aftermarket decals I'll be using, they do not include the sticker decal.

You decals look good. I keep procrastinating learning how to print decals, and am a bit envious of you folk who do!

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Monday, August 8, 2022 6:21 PM

For those building Tamiya cars with the Ford Cosworth V8, there is no fuel injector "Christmas tree" for the fuel lines.  I considered making them, but I realized that if you just paired fuel lines under either side of the electrical box and ran the ends to the injector horns, no one will notice!  Shhhh, mum's the word.  Mum.  Mum...

BTW Greg, did your kit come with the decal on top of the electrical box?  I had to make one for my Tyrrell.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    January 2020
  • From: Maryland
Posted by wpwar11 on Monday, August 8, 2022 4:43 PM

Greg-

Did that kit come with the black wires?  It looks great.  I'm trying to wire my F1 car too.  Definitely a learning experience and I'll know what to avoid next time I try it.  My biggest problem is getting the wires to lay down and hang properly.  Some of them look natural but others not so much.  
Looking forward to seeing more.  

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, August 8, 2022 4:13 PM

keavdog

I found this poking around: https://www.spotmodel.com/product_info.php?products_id=12032&language=en

Other's have used monofiliment but that sounds super fussy.

 

That was kind of you, John. I didn't expect you to do research for me, but both options sound viable to me....even the monofilament, with a bit of pre-planning.

Thank you. Bow Down

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Monday, August 8, 2022 12:41 PM

I found this poking around: https://www.spotmodel.com/product_info.php?products_id=12032&language=en

Other's have used monofiliment but that sounds super fussy.

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, August 8, 2022 11:36 AM

Joe, thank you. And glad to hear I'm not alone being new to engine wiring. Some of the folks here make it look so easy!

John, thank you and also for the info.

So I just gotta ask, where would one go about getting clear tubing for fuel line in 1/20? I looked at Detail Masters and Gofer to no avail.

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Monday, August 8, 2022 10:22 AM

Coming along nicely Ben.

Greg - engine looks great!  Those fiddley bits up top would be for fuel lines.  To plumb those you use clear fuel line.  

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    July 2008
Posted by Est.1961 on Monday, August 8, 2022 9:29 AM

LOL, I've been moved to add a small amount of wiring on the last couple of models I've made; and i mean a small amount and I dont know what the parts are called. Good fun though and a ton of artistic licence. like your engine by the way.

Joe

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Monday, August 8, 2022 8:38 AM

Pretty much done with the engine. It is OOB except I added the yellow ignition wire.

This is my first engine wiring job, and looking at these pics sort of makes me wish I'd wired the spark plug leads, or whatever those things are at the top, but they are small, finicky, and above my ability level, I think.

Time to move on to the transmission and rear suspension.

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Friday, August 5, 2022 7:29 AM

Your progress is really something to watch, Ben.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Thursday, August 4, 2022 11:07 PM

Neat project!

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Thursday, August 4, 2022 10:57 PM

Kev, yes a single cam, but the pushrods that move the exhaust valves go through tubes and are visible between the center and right and left rocker covers (think if exposed push rod tubes like a Harley or Indian. Another thing that caught me way out was no intake manifold, rather forced induction chamber in the center of the engine... wow!

Here's an update on my build. Well I was asked on July 18th how long it would take for the scratch building I mentioned in phase 1 of step 1, and here it is Aug 4th and I'm still working on them. Most of you know the way rework and scratch building goes; it depends on the amount of detail, if you have the research done for the modification, if you have the material to perform the work, and most important if you have a working plan / technique. 

Some things like the water pump and wastegate were relatively quick to build while other items may take considerably longer. This update is just to let you know that I'm still working on several things before we get deep into painting. With Step 2 done and eager to jump into Step 3 here we go....

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As you can see it comprises adding the engine, fuel tank, drivers seat and floor pan, radiator and some small details. While it should be easy I would urge you ... not so fast. In researching the build against the actual car I noticed several items of concern. These concerns have to be worked out before I can move along, they are:

- the seat cushioning and headrest in the model do not match any of the actual cars.

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- The dash panel in the model looks nothing like the actual cars. It is also 1/16" short creating a hole in the top of the cockpit.

 


Image- The entire front sheetmetal in and around the foot box and internal radiator area does not exist in the model kit. That is correct, there is nothing! So why would they leave it undeveloped with the large vents in the front revealing the error? Why would they have the top of the bodywork behind the radiator and in front of the cockpit removable knowing all of that is missing?

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- I am also still troubleshooting how to install the tie-rod and rear axles without harming the kit (refer to last update).

And I can't really move forward with paint and new assembly until some of that is resolved as I will be using the chassis and other parts as templates.

Last update I told you about the modifications to the supercharger so it would fit in the engine compartment, here is how it looks now:

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I've also been working on a correct dash panel made from sheet plastic, solder, etc. If you notice in the second photo it also has a secondary set of internal legs which are used to brace the steering shaft as well as support the foot tunnel. The black kit part is molded too short and creates a 1/16" gap at the top by the window and mirrors.

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The sheetmetal for the foot tunnel was quite challenging to come up with. In fact it is still a work-in-progress. The tunnel has to fit inside the metal body; inside the cut in vents; while also laying on the tube chassis / floor; simultaneously sitting flush with the oil container above it; having cut outs for the tie-rod to go through it and out to each front wheel; then there is the accelerator, brake, clutch pedal, and steering shaft to clear too. 

Here it is in the early phase of the construction:

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While working on the internal tanks and sheetmetal I was able to better shape the fuel tank and add the fitting going back to the engine. The black plastic tank in front of the driver and above the foot box I believe is for oil. When looking at the real car and comparing the kit blob, there are actually two storage containers with one little one sitting in front of the main tank. I carved that out and will add other details later.

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A couple things about this specific Revival kit caught me off guard. For example, why would you paint the body at the factory without cleaning the mold flash? Why would it be painted without the raw metal mirror/window bracket attached and painted with it? Why wouldn't they do the same thing for the raw metal radiator coolant pipe integrated into the right side of the body versus leaving it raw casting? 

So, as I was moving towards Step 3, I also began addressing those questions. First, here is the side radiator piping cleaned up and attached to the body. The internal mounting pins were exposed in the cockpit requiring them to be smoothed and filled. In front of the vent you can also see the hole for the tie-rod to go through between front wheels.

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The seam on the split body shell have been eliminated with CA cement, Tamiya putty and filing. The body parts have been sanded and ready for prime and German Silver repaint.

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Up next will be some painting, continuing on the front sheetmetal, and interior body work. 

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Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

LAST COMPLETED:

1/35 Churchill Mk IV AVRE with bridge - DONE

NEXT PROJECT:

1/35 CH-54A Tarhe Helicopter

 

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Thursday, August 4, 2022 9:28 PM

Ben, I'll have to read that 2 or 3 more times to fully ingest.  But this motor had a single overhead cam with open air pushrods?

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Thursday, August 4, 2022 8:51 PM

OK thanks guys, I think I have enough to go on.  Yes

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, August 4, 2022 6:35 PM

Real G
Actually, I AM planning on stuffing the brake lines "somewhere".

Good. I feel better now.

Real G
I'm not going "full boogie" on the wiring. I will only add fuel lines, brake lines, and the major oil lines. Plus a clear hose that looks like soda fountain line going between the main forward and rear oil tanks. A pressure equalization line perhaps?

For me, that would be "full boogie". Smile

Good luck getting your question addressed. Looks like you have some good info already.

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Thursday, August 4, 2022 3:36 PM

Ben,

I am thinking you are correct that the rear brake lines go to the front of the car.  What I am seeing in photos is the interconnecting line between the two rear brakes, and possibly independent lines on the outboard ports.  I'm not a mechanic, so I don't have any idea if two separate lines would make sense.  I can see from photos that each front wheel has only one brake line going to the master cyclinder.

Thankfully the Brabham I am building for the GB has a fully cowled engine, which is only veiwable from below.

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Thursday, August 4, 2022 2:51 PM

I am no expert on the Tyrrell P34 specifically, but I have a couple ideas. First of all as I understand your comment, there is a line coming from the front to the back; from one inboard rear brake to the other; and a third line appearing to go back to the front? Is that what your saying?

If so.....

- The brake master cylinder is indeed in the front of the car ahead of the pedal and foot box. 

- Sometimes  a brake line between the two rear "inboard" brakes was to allow the racer to adjust the braking bias between the right or left, depending on how the car is tracking / handling under braking on any given track / day.

- Without question, one of the outboard lines does indeed come from the master cylinder up front.

- Perhaps the second line is to feed a proporsioning valve for front to rear brake bias? If not, perhaps it could be a closed loop system?

I hope there is somebody with the knowledge to confirm what they set-up is, as I would like to know myself. 

Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

LAST COMPLETED:

1/35 Churchill Mk IV AVRE with bridge - DONE

NEXT PROJECT:

1/35 CH-54A Tarhe Helicopter

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Thursday, August 4, 2022 2:40 PM

Greg,

Actually, I AM planning on stuffing the brake lines "somewhere".  If they route to the front of the car, they will go between the cylinder banks and hide among the fuel and ignition lines.

I'm not going "full boogie" on the wiring. I will only add fuel lines, brake lines, and the major oil lines.  Plus a clear hose that looks like soda fountain line going between the main forward and rear oil tanks.  A pressure equalization line perhaps?

The fuel lines will be done the lazy way, as the kit does not include ports for the fuel manifold "Christmas tree".  I plan on making small loops attached to the manifold, which will secure the fuel lines.  Criminal shortcuts cannot be seen once the electrical box on top is added, along with the tangle of lines.

I too am learning a lot about F1 cars from building this model, which is NOT my GB model (sorry).

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Thursday, August 4, 2022 2:19 PM

Ben, I think I can finally understand and even share your enthusiam over the history and mechanical aspects of the model you are building.

For whatever reason, the F1 Lotus I am building here has led me to more information than with any previous model. Perhaps because I knew zilch about car racing, let alone F1. It's fun stuff.

G, hope somebody can help you with your brake details. I cannot. I'm taking a stab at a little 'wiring' on my model, just attached one today I  have no idea where it terminates so it's going to be hidden someplace.

In my house, visiting 2-3 yr olds seem have more patience looking at my displays than adults, so I'm going to be pretty surprised if anyone points out that the little yellow wire is going to the wrong place. Stick out tongue

I am NOT suggesting this be your solution, BTW. Just sharing where I'm at with a similar situation, and kidding around a little bit.

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Thursday, August 4, 2022 2:18 PM

Unlikely there are two separate master cylinders on a car.  Common on tractors and airplanes where brakes are used for steering. I've never seen a system where the left and right brakes would be connected to each other, but my experience is not with race cars, just normal cars and trucks and other machinery, and airplanes.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Thursday, August 4, 2022 1:54 PM

Okay guys, I have a technical question regarding the rear brakes on the Tyrrell P34 6-Wheeler:

The rear brakes have two brake line ports, and while studying my references, I noticed the inboard ports interconnect the left and right brakes.  So my question is where do the outboard lines go?  Is there a brake master cylinder dedicated to the rear brakes?  Or do the lines route to the front of the car where they join the front brakes and the master cylinder located behind the spoiler?  I'm a F1 and a car noob, so these things are unknown to me.  Any help would be greatly appreciated!

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    May 2011
  • From: Honolulu, Hawaii
Posted by Real G on Wednesday, August 3, 2022 6:19 PM

Fascinating history lesson Ben!  I enjoyed it a lot!  YesYes

“Ya ya ya, unicorn papoi!”

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Wednesday, August 3, 2022 4:27 PM

Before moving forward into Step 3, I wanted to talk about the amazing technology found in the Auto Union V16. Without any doubt, the powerful rear engine Auto Unions were ahead of their time. Their sheer “Leistung” or power was absolutely legendary. Through my research for model building authenticity I was taken back by the design and charastics of a V16 engine designed for auto racing actually back around 1930. 

Though he never completed any formal engineering training, Porsche’s résumé was already long before he set upon the task with the Auto union race cars. He had built the first hybrid-electric car, in 1901, fitted superchargers to Mercedes-Benz SSK race cars in the 1920s, and drew the first sketch of the original VW Beetle on the back of an envelope. He was also a brilliant organizer, harnessing the talents of those working in his engineering consultancy such as chassis specialist Karl Rabe and Josef Kales, an aircraft-engine designer whom Porsche put to work on the Auto Union. The jewel at the center of Porsche’s mid-engine P-Wagen was racing’s first purposed designed V-16 engine. Instead of chasing horsepower with a soprano redline like Mercedes, Alfa Romeo, Bugatti, and Masarati, Porsche sought tire-melting torque for the Auto Union delivered at a lower, more basso profundo rpm.

Rather than use fewer but larger cylinders, as were some of Auto Union’s competitors, more cylinders with smaller bores kept the engine’s length reasonable. A major benefit of the novel mid-engine layout was the integration of the engine, transmission, and differential components, thereby saving the weight of a driveshaft. Indeed, everything about the Auto Union V-16 was revolutionary. A 45-degree V-angle provided even firing intervals and narrow width. Common practice in the 1930s to forestall sealing issues was an integrated head-and-block assembly made of welded iron and steel bolted to an aluminum crankcase. Instead, to save weight over that construction, Kales tapped his aircraft-engine experience to cast the crankcase, block, and heads all in aluminum. Forged-steel bore liners, so-called “wet liners” as they were surrounded with coolant, were retained by the cylinder heads.

Since the redline was a modest 5500 rpm, dual overhead cams were deemed unnecessary. Instead, to further save weight, a single camshaft supported by nine bearings operated all 32 valves. Finger followers nudged the intakes, while each exhaust valve was opened by a cam follower moving a horizontal pushrod in touch with an outboard rocker arm. This clever arrangement had never been used before the Auto Union V-16, nor has it been seen since.

 

A 45-degree V-angle for the cylinders (4) provided even firing intervals and kept the engine narrow. One central camshaft (5) operated the intake valves (6) via finger followers and the exhaust valves (7) via horizontal pushrods and rocker arms. The two valves at the top of each cylinder were spread 90 degrees apart inside each hemispherical combustion chamber.

To spare the weight of an intake manifold, a semicircular channel ran the length of the engine between the heads. Fed at its aft end by a Roots-type supercharger, this passage delivered the fuel-air mix prepared by a side-draft two-barrel Solex carburetor to the cylinders via short intake ports. Backfires were a real danger, requiring a novel solution. In those days, they were caused by the carburetor’s inability to respond promptly to abrupt changes in throttle position, such as a quick lift to arrest a sliding tail out of a bend (the Auto Union was notoriously squirrelly). Air and fuel mixtures momentarily went out of whack, causing the engine to stutter, a pop you can hear in many carbureted cars from either the exhaust or the intake. When the Auto Union’s cylinders misfired, it sent flame from the combustion chamber back up the intake and ignited the fuel-air mixture within, to potentially disastrous results, especially for the supercharger. Thus, a simple spring-loaded plate was added at the channel’s forward end to vent the excess pressure of the misfire to the atmosphere before it could do damage. It also served as a wastegate to limit the peak boost reaching the cylinders. One bad side effect was venting toxic fuel to the atmosphere, which sent a trail out the back of the car and into the face of anyone attempting to pass.

One pump scavenged oil from the pan for cooling and containment in a reservoir, while a second pump delivered lubricant to the V-16’s moving parts. Block skirts extended well below the main-bearing bulkheads to enhance the engine’s stiffness. The lower edge of this casting dropped at a 7-degree angle below horizontal to provide extra material at the rear where the engine was bolted to a five-speed transaxle. A forged alloy-steel crankshaft supported by 10 main bearings provided one throw for each pair of I-section forged-steel connecting rods. The engine could have gotten by with nine main bearings, but an extra main bearing was added to support the clutch and flywheel, located aft of a gear-driven vertical shaft that spun the overhead camshaft, supercharger, oil pumps, and pair of Bosch magnetos. Flat-topped pistons fitted with three rings were held to the rods by full-floating wrist pins.

A 7.0:1 compression ratio with 9 psi of boost yielded 295 horsepower at 4500 rpm and a mighty 391 lb-ft of torque at only 2700 rpm. A table-flat torque curve allowed lapping most tracks using only two gears, and tight courses such as Monaco could be driven entirely without shifting. Mercedes drivers revved their 3360-cc W25 straight-eights a full 1200 rpm higher to achieve a peak output of 314 horsepower, but they fell 10 percent below Auto Union in torque production. 

Gasoline in the 1930s lacked the octane necessary to forestall detonation, so a witch’s brew of fuel was used consisting of 60 percent alcohol, 20 percent benzol, 10 percent diethyl ether, 8 percent gasoline, and traces of toluene and castor oil. Since that concoction’s energy density was lower than gasoline’s, the Auto Union’s 55-gallon fuel tank required at least one refill per race.

Car and driver eventually gelled for the 1936 and ’37 seasons, as Auto Union punched its V-16’s bore out to 75.0 millimeters, yielding a total capacity of 6006 cc, the largest piston displacement used by any manufacturer in this era. At the time, displacement was unlimited, there being no caps until the 1938 season. Wisely, Porsche had entrusted his engine man, Josef Kales, to engineer the V-16 with future displacements bumps in mind, so bore spacing and cylinder-wall thickness were not issues. This new Type C had a 9.2:1 compression ratio fed by 14 psi of boost and pumped out 520 horsepower at 5000 rpm and a potent 630 lb-ft of torque at 2500 rpm. Rosemeyer won the 1936 championship. (The majority of this posting was previously written by Donald Sherman, 2021), for Hagerty Media)

I felt the need to post this is for several reasons:

- 1st V16 race specific engine ever produced.

- One of the 1st automotive race engines to be entirely cast from aluminum.

- even firing 45 degres design.

- Forged steel bore "wet" liner technology in a 1930 race car engine.

- one cam operated 32 valves through a central location.

- no intake manifold, roots supercharger fed a central chamber of force induction.

- two oil pumps.

- 10 main bearings for the crankshaft.

- My explanation of the water intake tubes on top of the engine as fuel injector tubes was wrong. In fact there was no fuel injection, instead it was forced induction through a central chamber.

- My initial guess of the "Doo-Dad" in the front of the engine as a pump was wrong. It is the dump / wategate for the fuel blow back during backfires and boost settings.

I initially posted a speed of nearly 250 mph but retracted it to 250 kph, again I was wrong, it reached over 270 MPH, WOW!!

This is a demon engine spawned in hades during the era. Now if it just the chassis and tires that could handle the power, could you imagine the capabilities of this beast!?

 

Next, finishing Step 3 of the Auto Union build. 

 

Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

LAST COMPLETED:

1/35 Churchill Mk IV AVRE with bridge - DONE

NEXT PROJECT:

1/35 CH-54A Tarhe Helicopter

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Saturday, July 30, 2022 7:18 AM

Thank you John, Paul, Ben.

Ben, more I follow your build, the less I'm thinking I should have waited until I grew up to build that metal kit I tried as a kid.

I'm pretty sure I still couldn't handle it!

  • Member since
    June 2018
  • From: Ohio (USA)
Posted by DRUMS01 on Saturday, July 30, 2022 1:01 AM

Nice work Greg, I like it!

UPDATE:

The more I research the real cars, the more I find errors in the Revival molds. There are also plenty of omissions, details simply missing (?). I am just trying to make a very basic model look a little better than an OOB build. In this case it just happens to be on a metal model that was engineered in the 70's and without a lot or $$ behind the tooling. 

It really is not an awesome kit, it is a simple kit made complex with every surface, hole, or other type connection needing a complete de-bur, filing, leveling, polishing, etc. Now if this would come out looking like a top of the line Ebbro kit, then the work would be worth it. Still, if you want a model kit with a little detail, in metal, and don't want to spend over $300.00 USD for it (CMC), then this is really the only game in town for the modeling subject.

OK, enough whining about the ill temperament of the kit, after all I knew what I was getting into (sort of). For example, here are just some of the rubber parts provided in the kit that were replaced with metal, plastic, wire, solder, and guitar string. 

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Since the last update I managed to mostly complete the detailing of the motor. On thing that surprised me was the design of the plugs on top of the supercharger. Specifically, by design, they were too tall to allow the engine cover to fit properly to the body (test fitting). That reminds me of the 1939 Revival Mercedes kit as it also had a problem with the engine cover fitting properly after the engine was installed. Anyway, my solution was to remove the long cast prongs and the fittings and replaced them with a representation of the turned ends of where the internal bearings raced on the blower drives (see below)

(Before)
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(photo of real car but similar to my modifications on top the supercharger)
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Other additions included more wiring where appropriate, transmission details, and painting. For example, I painted the water injection lines and bolts on the cam/rocker covers using a Molotow chrome marker; detail painted various bolt heads, wiring, etc. Here is how I plan to replicate the line from the fuel take to the engine (guitar string, solder, and hollow aluminum tube).

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The only items remaining for me to scratch build are the oil filters with attach points (two), details for the shifting linkage, and the oil fill tube. (MORE ENGINE PHOTO'S SOON).

Step 2 begins work on the tube chassis. Part of the handling issues of the 36-37 Auto Union cars was the flex of the chassis when dealing with the power (torque) of the V16 engine. It appear that Revival got the tube chassis mostly correct. Now if the small details would be just as good. The instructions require very close attention to the details:

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Did you notice the very small information concerning the cutting of a small coiled spring into four pieces? (two for the front and two for the back). Did you catch how they are installed in a perfectly shaped and fitted set of parts (much filing and fitting)? The front uses 5 parts for each side and the end result is very, very little movement once the suspension and tire rod are added. For the back they use four parts on each side. When they are completed, the movement is around 1/4 inch but decreases to less than 1/16 once the full suspension is added to the rear of the car. Did I say that every part has to be filed, sanded, and polished just perfect for them to work? Here is the difference of two parts; one still on the tree and the other finished/polished.

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The front suspension is a small scale torsion bar type with ball ends attaching to the wheel. Here is another issue I found with the instructions versus the parts themselves. In the instructions, the thin brass disc on the face of the wheel spindle indicates it has three holes i it. The ones provided in the kit only had one hole that is out on the edge, see below. Pay no attention to the other items I've assembled, they will be described following this.

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What this means is that while it will hold the ball joints and tie-rod end to the wheel, it does not allow you to use the screwdriver to tighten the tie-rod ends to the tie-rod. The tie-rod is not assembled to the car until the body is attached as it goes through the body; this will be a problem I will resolve later. 

The front suspension sub-assembly is inserted into the torsion tubes but first are inserted into a brass sleeve and then into the tubes. The back of the front wheels show good molded details, but the front by using the thin brass disc are severely lacking. In order to get the smooth wheel hub look through those pretty metal spoked wheels, I will have to add a thin plastic cover being the same size as the wheel. I will then smooth the external wheel circumference and paint it. From my calibrated eye, it should not effect the wheel mounting. And yes, the torsion bars are not in the correct positions in the photo below. They should be angled to the rear not front. I just set them together to give you an idea of what it will look like.

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The rear drive line is assembled in this step, as a sub-assembly. They are not added to the frame until the upper body is mounted. I found another area of concern regarding the attaching of the half shafts to the transaxle in this configuration. Specifically, the half shafts are threaded tight to the wheel spindle which is through the wheel hub, suspension link and trail link. The only way those assemblies can be attached at the right trail and toe is to be threaded into the transaxle screws, meaning the hole rear axle assembly must be turned to thread the half shaft into the transaxle, while simultaneously feeding the leading suspension link through its hole in the body and have it screwed through the tube chassis. I think it could've been done better by assembling the axle half shaft to the transaxle and then insert the leading suspension link through the body for attachment separately. Last would've been the assembly of the remaining suspension link, wheel hub, and spindle. My problem is that I not only screwed them together, but I also glued them with CA cement too. Now they will not come apart without destroying them. This will be another thing for me to solve later. Perhaps I'm making something out of nothing, we will see.

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Now we come to the control pedals in the cockpit. Plain and simple, the ones provided in the kit are terrible. The do not offer any kind of detail or are scale correct to the ones found on the actual car. In addition, the levers attached to the pedals in the instructions do not exist in the kit. Instead, they provided five pedals (?). Even if you cut the pedal off to use the stem of the pedal, they are junk. My solution was to create them from thin plastic. I also added pedal faces to better replicate the size of pedal on the real car.

Next was the radiator assembly. Oops! I'm jumping ahead to Step 3.... Anyway, the radiator is made up of three main parts; the main body, the top, and what looks like an oil or transmission cooler towards the bottom front of the radiator. The first thing was to make the radiator body and top one piece, then shape it to look like one piece. Careful inspection of source photos show that the radiator is missing other fittings, so I added them by drilling and scratch building using various extruded metal and solder parts. Here's the front suspension with the modified radiator attached.

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The transmission cooler is a simple single part but the source photos show it needs fittings for processing the flow of fluid through it. While most of it will not be seen I am creating the fittings for the hoses to be added later. After finishing the metal part I used extruded plastic to create the nut or head of the fitting, drilled it, and then used some hollow core aluminum rod with solder inserted to avoid crimping it (see below). You can also see it attached to the front of the radiator in the chassis photos above. 

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To close step 2 I also need to talk about the locations of the gear selector and brake lever to the chassis. Why does the instructions have a measurement from the second chassis cross member to the selector box but the actual model has a pin and the selector a corresponding hole; meaning there is no measurement? Also, why did Revival decide to attach the brake lever using a metal strap and screw threaded into the lever and not just a simple pin like the gear selector? I ask this because it was the devil to bend and flex the metal strap around the tube chassis while inserting a micro screw, while also holding the brake lever. Some how I managed to assemble it with only two hands after several attempts. Like I said, I think the pin or a hole threaded through the tube chassis would've been easier, cheaper, and look just a good. 

I will discuss the Radiatormore along with other chassis and interior bits in my next update (Step 3). I'm also going to talk more about the V16 marvel of an engine in the next update. Soon I hope to add paint to the assembled chassis parts. Thanks for following along and remember, feedback is encouraged! If you have any ideas that could help me with the build, please share them. Be safe, live, laugh, and love well; above all MODEL SOMETHING!

Ben / DRUMS01

"Everyones the normal until you get to know them" (Unknown)

LAST COMPLETED:

1/35 Churchill Mk IV AVRE with bridge - DONE

NEXT PROJECT:

1/35 CH-54A Tarhe Helicopter

 

  • Member since
    January 2020
  • From: Maryland
Posted by wpwar11 on Thursday, July 28, 2022 10:31 AM

Outstanding work Ben and Greg.  

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Wednesday, July 27, 2022 2:57 PM

Ben - that engine is looking sharp!

Thanks,

John

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Northern California
Posted by jeaton01 on Wednesday, July 27, 2022 10:51 AM

Sharp details, well done, Greg.

John

To see build logs for my models:  http://goldeneramodel.com/mymodels/mymodels.html

 

  • Member since
    May 2013
  • From: Indiana, USA
Posted by Greg on Wednesday, July 27, 2022 10:46 AM

Thank you, John....appreciate it!

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by keavdog on Wednesday, July 27, 2022 10:23 AM

Looking good Greg!  Nice job picking out the details - really looks sharp.

Thanks,

John

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