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South Pacific Group Build 7 August 2006 to 7 August 2007

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Thursday, February 8, 2007 3:14 PM

I know very little about the Kate, or Japanese planes in general....

Your instrument panel looks great! Was it a decal?  Painted?

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Thursday, February 8, 2007 4:32 PM
filling.....sanding....filling....sanding, how many seams can a monogram model have!Sigh [sigh]

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by silentmodeler on Thursday, February 8, 2007 4:35 PM
 espins1 wrote:

I know very little about the Kate, or Japanese planes in general....

Your instrument panel looks great! Was it a decal?  Painted?

Same here Big Smile [:D]  it was from dry brushing Wink [;)]  ThanksBig Smile [:D]

"Do, do not, theres no try" ~Yoda
  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by silentmodeler on Thursday, February 8, 2007 4:42 PM
 mucker wrote:

silentmodeler: The cockpit looks well put together. I'm a fan of the Kate, but far from an expert. I'm curious as to the yellow-ish color. What color did you use and what references called out for that color? My limited knowlegde has it as Nakajima Interior Green. Just curious.

I can't wait to see the finished bird.

Mucker,  I had a difficult time to decided which to paint the interior color since im not good at mixing the color.  I had 3 kates which im building one now (coral sea).  two are from pearl harbor.  one of them says yellow-green and others says mix brown, yellow, green , white and I got lost argh.   so i research to find yellow-green color.  I like to use model masters and testor color since im comfortable with them.  but.... the yellow-green color was from tamiya (XF-4)  it work out nicely. 

and espin1   the only decals i use is on the chair with black holes. 

"Do, do not, theres no try" ~Yoda
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Northern KY
Posted by mucker on Thursday, February 8, 2007 6:44 PM
 silentmodeler wrote:
 mucker wrote:

silentmodeler: The cockpit looks well put together. I'm a fan of the Kate, but far from an expert. I'm curious as to the yellow-ish color. What color did you use and what references called out for that color? My limited knowlegde has it as Nakajima Interior Green. Just curious.

I can't wait to see the finished bird.

Mucker,  I had a difficult time to decided which to paint the interior color since im not good at mixing the color.  I had 3 kates which im building one now (coral sea).  two are from pearl harbor.  one of them says yellow-green and others says mix brown, yellow, green , white and I got lost argh.   so i research to find yellow-green color.  I like to use model masters and testor color since im comfortable with them.  but.... the yellow-green color was from tamiya (XF-4)  it work out nicely. 

and espin1   the only decals i use is on the chair with black holes. 

Thanks, silentmodeler...keep the pics coming. It looks very nice so far.

  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Melbourne, Victoria
Posted by harvs73 on Thursday, February 8, 2007 11:54 PM
I haven't even had a chance to start the Avenger I plan on doing. Between moving house and job combined with running a website I have just had bugger all time to do anything! In fact, the only modelling work I have done in the last few months is fixing the breakages from teh move. Sad [:(]

Dave Harvey

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Monday, February 12, 2007 7:04 PM

Here's what I have so far on the P-61, I've already started filling and sanding.

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 10:25 AM
Thanks for the update NucMedTech, those seams look like fun!  Wink [;)]

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 12:56 PM
I love the smell of squadron putty in th morningDead [xx(].

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    August 2013
Posted by JerrynFrog on Tuesday, February 13, 2007 2:58 PM

Ollie- I also have several on-going/back-burner projects to finish and they are keeping me from joining any new GB's that would be fun.  I think I will enjoy the future ones more when those other projects are finished.

Joe- Welcome back. T'was great to hear from you. Your P-47 looks wonderful...hope your eyes are okay from dealing with those itty bitty 1/72 scale parts!!

Silentmodeler- Your instrument panel is really gorgeous and those other aluminum details really stand out. I also am learning to use Tamiya's paints. I sure like the lack of paint fumes when cleaning up with Windex/Simple green.

NucMedTech- Wow, that is some serious seam filling!! Happy Sanding!!

Frog flies.........................Jerry repairs                       

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by silentmodeler on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 1:29 AM

Jerrynfrog

Thanks. Big Smile [:D]  i took alot of time to do that and came up pretty great Smile [:)]  and umm  use simple green or windex to clean the brush?  it work better than thinner?  I never know abt that Dead [xx(]  can ya explain  thanks again. 

Update: 

My kate is almost done  boy  had hard time to do sanding and filing since im not that good with it. I should of take some pictures of it before i use airbrush   dang   next time tho.  at least i have two kates left to build Big Smile [:D] ill shall post up some pixs before i put on decals. if i happen to forget abt that  then u will see my finished kate.

"Do, do not, theres no try" ~Yoda
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 10:19 AM
 silentmodeler wrote:

Jerrynfrog

Thanks. Big Smile [:D]  i took alot of time to do that and came up pretty great Smile [:)]  and umm  use simple green or windex to clean the brush?  it work better than thinner?  I never know abt that Dead [xx(]  can ya explain  thanks again. 

If you're using Acrylics (such as Tamiya Acrylics) you use an amonia based cleaner as it totally disolves Acrylic paints.  Windex has amonia, is very inexpensive and works fantastic!  I use it to clean my brushes, clean my air brush, and to strip dried acrylic paint or remove small amounts with a q-tip with a little windex on it etc.  If you're using enamels, you have to use enamel thinner.

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Wednesday, February 14, 2007 5:17 PM

Jerry-I haven't found a monogram model that did not require a lot of sanding, except for the promodeler series, those are some decent models.

Does anybody have an idea of how to build a engine ring mount for the p&w 2800 engine? I'm thinking of using brass wire soldered together, unless there's an easier way. Especially since I've soldered one time before this.Cowboy [C):-)]

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by silentmodeler on Thursday, February 15, 2007 1:24 AM
 espins1 wrote:
 silentmodeler wrote:

Jerrynfrog

Thanks. Big Smile [:D]  i took alot of time to do that and came up pretty great Smile [:)]  and umm  use simple green or windex to clean the brush?  it work better than thinner?  I never know abt that Dead [xx(]  can ya explain  thanks again. 

If you're using Acrylics (such as Tamiya Acrylics) you use an amonia based cleaner as it totally disolves Acrylic paints.  Windex has amonia, is very inexpensive and works fantastic!  I use it to clean my brushes, clean my air brush, and to strip dried acrylic paint or remove small amounts with a q-tip with a little windex on it etc.  If you're using enamels, you have to use enamel thinner.

Thanks for the tip  Thumbs Up [tup]

"Do, do not, theres no try" ~Yoda
  • Member since
    August 2013
Posted by JerrynFrog on Thursday, February 15, 2007 11:12 AM
Silentmodeler

Ditto with everything Scott said regarding Windex.

In addition, I will use Simple Green, but I dilute the concentrate to a ratio of 1-2 oz cleaner per pint of water. It is more cost effective that way and still very effective to clean up your airbrush. I keep a jug of the diluted mix on hand for various cleaning jobs and have poured some into an empty margarine container to use for immersing my color cup and airbrush nozzle parts. After immersion, I usually clean with a pipe cleaner that I will re-use several times. My container is becoming rather dirty, but it still cleans just fine.

After the rough clean up with the 'dirty' Simple green, I will shoot some clean 'diluted' Simple green or Windex through the brush........then disassemble and perform a water rinse to remove any cleaner residues that may be corrosive to the airbrush materials of construction....Note: this final step is done at the end of the painting session, not between color changes. Hope this helps...Happy Airbrushing!!

Frog flies.........................Jerry repairs                       

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Bronze Squadron - Battlestar Cerberus
Posted by Lodni Kranazon on Saturday, February 17, 2007 4:28 PM
Would it be too late to get in on this - say with a Marine Corsair?Confused [%-)]

[Admiring Starbuck's space fighter] Cassiopeia: It's a perfect machine! Born to dance amongst the stars! Starbuck: Yeah, it's bumping into them that has me worried.

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by silentmodeler on Saturday, February 17, 2007 9:14 PM

heres update on my kates  not 100% compete  but getting there Smile [:)]

Torpedo

heres kate with torpedo

can anyone give me tip how to make a chipped paint on the kate body?  drybrush or sponge?  let me know thanks   im trying to make it look like wore out plane.  again  feedback and comment are welcome Big Smile [:D]

"Do, do not, theres no try" ~Yoda
  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by silentmodeler on Sunday, February 18, 2007 1:08 AM
 NucMedTech wrote:

Does anybody have an idea of how to build a engine ring mount for the p&w 2800 engine? I'm thinking of using brass wire soldered together, unless there's an easier way. Especially since I've soldered one time before this.Cowboy [C):-)]

NucMedTech

i found this site it might be useful to ya but i know it cost My 2 cents [2c]

http://www.squadron.com/ItemDetails.asp?item=VE1171

or other way which is much difficult is to use copper wire,  i have see in fine scale mag.  i never tried it. 

"Do, do not, theres no try" ~Yoda
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Sunday, February 18, 2007 4:10 PM

NucMed-I think Monogram has ownership in a couple of companies that manufacture putty (just kidding).....Your P-61 looks great-that is an interesting plane.

silentmodeler-as far as the chipped paint effect, I remember an FSM article where the builder painted the model silver, allowed to dry, then sprayed a coat of Future.  After the Future was dry, then the final color, allow to dry, (but not completly) and then take some low-tac masking tape and 'dab' the surface, pulling off the last coat.  Also, I saw a builder paint the silver, then when dry (not sure if it was Futured), apply rubber cement where he wanted the chipping.  Then the final coat, allow to dry, and remove the rubber cement.  If you have already applied the final coat (and you have), then a silver pencil is a good option for light chipping. Not sure of a good way to do heavier chipping/pealing though....

btw-your Kate is looking good.  I'm starting on the Tamiya Zero (drilled out the seat and primed the interior bits) and I'm thinking of doing the chipped paint effect too-I'll be watching to see how yours turns out.

Bob

 

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by silentmodeler on Sunday, February 18, 2007 4:34 PM
bobbaily,  thanks for the helpful tips.  yeah i already did the final coat on it but silver penicl sounds good to me    ill figure something out smiles   cant wait to see your zero.
"Do, do not, theres no try" ~Yoda
  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Sunday, February 18, 2007 6:17 PM
Thanks for the reply silentmodeler, but I have the engine. What I'm looking for is what mounts the engine to the airplane. I have heard it called a ring engine mount (although it may be called something else), I need to figure out how to make one.Cowboy [C):-)]

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Sunday, February 18, 2007 6:43 PM

Oh, as for paint chipping, I tried the system that Mr. Bailey described by painting the model silver then top coat color then low tack tape. Here are my results on the Monogram PBY a few years ago.

I know you already painted your kate but you may want to try this on your next one.

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by silentmodeler on Monday, February 19, 2007 4:18 AM

nucmedtech

WHOA!  nice job!!  Thumbs Up [tup] and i have exactly same PBY but havent build it yet since im trying to figure it out where to put it in my small townhouse Propeller [8-]  more likely hang it up on ceiling

"Do, do not, theres no try" ~Yoda
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Monday, February 19, 2007 6:05 AM
nucmedtech-very nice work indeed.  very convincing. 

Bob

 

  • Member since
    September 2006
  • From: Central Texas
Posted by NucMedTech on Monday, February 19, 2007 12:00 PM
Thanks guys. It is one of my older models, unfortunately it is no longer with me. If your going to build it silent modeler, you will need some space it is a pretty large model. I would suggest, like you said, hanging it if you have limited shelf space.Cowboy [C):-)]

Most barriers to your successes are man made. And most often you are the man who made them. -Frank Tyger

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Reno, NV
Posted by espins1 on Monday, February 19, 2007 3:23 PM

 Wiccan Warrior wrote:
Would it be too late to get in on this - say with a Marine Corsair?Confused [%-)]

It's never too late, welcome aboard!  Sign - Welcome [#welcome]

Scott Espin - IPMS Reno High Rollers  Geeked My Reviews 

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Bronze Squadron - Battlestar Cerberus
Posted by Lodni Kranazon on Monday, February 19, 2007 10:20 PM

Cool! It will be a "Birdcage" F4U, I'll post the unit as soon as I can decide! Tongue [:P] Dinner [dinner]

Banged Head [banghead] Sorry, it's the Academy 1/48 kit! Dunce [D)]

[Admiring Starbuck's space fighter] Cassiopeia: It's a perfect machine! Born to dance amongst the stars! Starbuck: Yeah, it's bumping into them that has me worried.

  • Member since
    October 2006
  • From: Rochester, NY
Posted by silentmodeler on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 1:00 AM
does anybody know the weathering color for "salt air effect" on my kate?  such as light gray or light green? as you see my kate is green.   let me know  thanks
"Do, do not, theres no try" ~Yoda
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by JoeRugby on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 8:48 AM

Regarding salt staining...

I like your Kate...but I think you may have missed the chance for salt staining and chipping.  If I totally mis-understand your intention, my apologies.

Try this link from Swanny's page.  http://www.swannysmodels.com/Salting.html

It describes chipping, but I have found an interesting side effect in most cases.  If you put the salt on over a regular (no future or clear coat) base metallic then lay on a flat acryllic over the salt, there will be a "staining" effect around the salt.

The other method which I used on the P47 is to use an artist's blending stump and pastels.  I used it to lighten panels.  The stumps are cheap, I paid $1.20 at the local art shop for a pack I will never use up.

Hope this helps.

Check out the WW I Special Interest Group @ http://swannysmodels.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=WW1SIG
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Nashville, TN area
Posted by bobbaily on Tuesday, February 20, 2007 9:26 AM
 JoeRugby wrote:

Regarding salt staining...

....... but I have found an interesting side effect in most cases.  If you put the salt on over a regular (no future or clear coat) base metallic then lay on a flat acryllic over the salt, there will be a "staining" effect around the salt.

Joe-is the "staining" effect around the salt a good thing or a bad thing?

Thanks

Bob 

 

Bob

 

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