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ARMOR - Tamiya 1/16 Tiger 1 Group Build

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  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Steeler Country
Posted by Kumy on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 11:38 AM
Looking good Big Smile [:D]

Keep those progress pic's coming!!! Wink [;)]

Thanks for the Aber tip Smile [:)]
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Steeler Country
Posted by Kumy on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 11:41 AM
Are you guys doing specific Tigers? Or going with the decals sheets to do a Tiger?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 12:32 PM
I am doing Michael Wittmann's #S04 Evil [}:)]
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Steeler Country
Posted by Kumy on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 1:01 PM
Awesome... is that Tiger done in winter whitewash?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 5:28 PM
Found a Tiger 1 with DMD Multi function for $950, good or bad price?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 6:49 PM
Kuma :

You ~gotta~ specify USD or Cdn ( or even Euro ) here , as we have people from all over , right guys ?

At $950 Cdn , thats ... $695 US as I write this ( http://www.xe.com/ucc/ )

With D4W at $550 , thats $145 you're tossing away , almost the cost of an Aber set ! Or more than a set of metal tracks .

You wont find a match in Canada to any US / HK price unless its coming off eBay . Thats how I managed to snag my KT/Porsche DMD for $340 US . Borgfeldt wanted almost 50% more ...

We've told ya where to buy what ... and the laughable thing ... half the US ****** that comes back has Borgfeldt's sticker on it !

WhiteWolf
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Steeler Country
Posted by Kumy on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 8:39 PM
Oops! wasn't me Tongue [:P]

Kuma
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 8:52 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by WhiteWolf McBrideYou ~gotta~ specify USD or Cdn ( or even Euro ) here , as we have people from all over , right guys ?

At $950 Cdn , thats ... $695 US as I write this ( http://www.xe.com/ucc/ )

With D4W at $550 , thats $145 you're tossing away , almost the cost of an Aber set ! Or more than a set of metal tracks .

You wont find a match in Canada to any US / HK price unless its coming off eBay . Thats how I managed to snag my KT/Porsche DMD for $340 US . Borgfeldt wanted almost 50% more ...


Umm, that was in USD, so whoever bets that, pays over double a good price then?

Also, can you list the producers in full, with their websites, and/or eBay screen names? Seeing D4W is not that informative to me.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, September 17, 2003 9:59 PM
[/red]Teddy :[/red]

$950 US ? Unless it comes with an Aber superset , 4ch. radio , metal barrel & metal tracks , its a rip-off ! ( or your typical multi-markup LHS )

Ok , suppliers :

Dave4What , US (D4W) : dave4what.com
- tanks , radios , TaBU's , gearboxes , DMD & MF units
- also has Tiff's T23 Sherman turret & cast hull .

BackYard Armor , US (BYA) : backyardarmor.com
- tanks , metal tracks , metal barrels & TaBU's .

AirConnection , Canada (AirCon) : AirConnection.com
- Aber sets

Military Hobbies , US site (MilHob) : militaryhobbies.com
Military Hobbies , Can Site (MilHob) : militaryhobbies.ca
- Aber sets

Mike @ BrassBarrels , US (BraBar) : brassbarrels.com
- metal barrels

Ebayers in HK :

Holiday 123 , HeiHeiHei999 , Manheader , HongKong_Cowboy , StellaModels .

I miss any , guys ?

WhiteWolf
( spending too much time online & not enough on the tanks ! )
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Thursday, September 18, 2003 6:55 AM
Erock I meant to comment on your wheels yesterday and congratulate you on the progress!! What else have you gotten done since then? If I could get my butt in gear and finish my Marder I could get started on mine!! Have you started to fold any of the Aber stuff yet? I think I'm going to start with some of the "nuts" just to get used to it and then move on to the assembly order after that (This is of course after I actually start the thing!! ) I still agree with Hulk, you'll probably be done about the time he and I get started Tongue [:P] Big Smile [:D]

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 18, 2003 7:17 AM
You know,

I was thinking the same thing, about folding the PE nuts first, to get geared up for the rest of the 1000 parts Evil [}:)]

I was trying to decide if I want to use the PE front and rear fenders. With being an RC, you know you will run into something by accident and bend them. Maybe it will look like normal damage if it happens. Either way, I think I'll get them both ready, just in case.

Roy,
Did your wife get those pictures ready yet? Are you sending a disk or just an email to me?
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Steeler Country
Posted by Kumy on Thursday, September 18, 2003 7:34 AM
Everybody is watching Erock Tongue [:P]

Yea nice progress and its great you can post pictures.

Have you used your etch bender yet? It sounds like a good investment although its a bit more expensive than I thought it would be!

Have you given any thought to tapping 1mm for your bolts?

You could be right about the PE fenders. As long as they don't tear off the bent up fenders might give it a more natural used look.
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Thursday, September 18, 2003 7:54 AM
A thought on the fenders Erock...I think they're workable when built correctly with the Aber set?? If I'm remembering right and that's the case you could either
1. fold them up and tape them out of the way while you run it,...

2. leave the hinge pin "loose" so you can slide it out, remove the fender while running and then reattach it when you're done, (the risk then is damaging the hinge itself but if you put the pin back in the main fender it would be harder to bend the hinge pieces)...

3. or like you said risk some damage to the fender and then you just have "real" battle damage Big Smile [:D]

Actually I'd be afraid to run one wiith the Aber set on it but I'm just a big chicken anyway!! Big Smile [:D]


This is THE Big Cicken Big Smile [:D] Tongue [:P]

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 18, 2003 7:59 AM
Kumakichi,

No, I will not be tapping. I'd rather poke myself in the eye with a hot needle, than try and frustrate myself that way Black Eye [B)]
  • Member since
    May 2003
  • From: USA, GA
Posted by erush on Thursday, September 18, 2003 8:03 AM
I think I'm going to forgo the tapping part too. I'll just drill a hole and glue those suckers in [:D

Eric
Hi, I'm Eric and I'm a Modelholic too. I think I have PE poisioning.     "Friendly fire...isn't"
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by okieboy on Thursday, September 18, 2003 8:11 AM
Hiya guys,

I'm baaaack. My two days off were Tues and Wed. I started priming parts of my Tiger last night and I bought my paint. The problem is that I'm waiting on my parts to arrive from Dirk in Germany. Hey WWMcB, is this guy reliable? My German's so rusty that I just use English with him, but I just hope that
he got my order. I sent my order(I used stock numbers and the worded descriptions) and payment two weeks ago and no word back from him. I can't really progress any further until I get those parts.
Hey Erock, great job on your wheels. Did you use a thinned oil paint? Also, when you paint your Tiger, have you installed all the electronics already? I wonder because I worry about the paint interfering with the electronics. I suppose I could just cover the gear with plastic... I loathe waiting on parts!!! (Oh, Erock, I'm trying to get the images transferred to disk so I can e-mail them to you.) I have to send them from my wife's work account because we don't have an internet connection yet, and my work is classified, literally. So I can't bring in or take out any data from my work.

Talk to me gents,
Roy
"We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence upon those who would do us harm." George Orwell
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Steeler Country
Posted by Kumy on Thursday, September 18, 2003 8:21 AM
Whitewolf.......I was looking at D4W's site and it looks like his has the Type 3 DMD's.

If I were to order a Tiger from him should I ask him if he has Type 4's? Its metal gears vs. the plastic ones in a Type 3?

I mean to an RC noob like myself metal does sound sturdier but would it be critical?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 18, 2003 8:39 AM
Roy,
I used the oils for the wash. I have a more detailed description at the TIger Site. As for the interior, I won't be painting it. It would have been scratched while trying to install the torsion bars and other metal parts. Since nobody will be seeing it, I'm just leaving it "as is"

The only interior parts I will be painting, will be those visable from the outside. I will be using Tamiya XF-57(Buff) for that.

When I do paint the exterior, I will cover the gears and such, in case some spray works its way inside.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by okieboy on Thursday, September 18, 2003 9:17 AM
I'm not painting the interior of my Tiger either. Although that's a good idea to paint some of the interior with buff. No, I was more concerned with the electronics inside the tank while I was painting the outside. So what were your ratios of paint to thinner for your wash? And what type of thinner did you use? Never did a wash before and I really like how yours is turning out. I'm also considering swapping out the stock motors for Zagi 400s. Apparently their speed is more to true scale and greatly enhances the tank's lower torque.

So WWMcB, give me the scoop on Dirk. Is he reliable?

Roy
"We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence upon those who would do us harm." George Orwell
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 18, 2003 11:24 AM
I don't really have a ratio to go by for the wash. I fill the pallette with all the Spirits it can handle (so I don't have to remix that often) and squeeze out some artist oil paint from the tube (probably about the size of a BB) on the side.

I mix in a little at a time. For Burnt Umber, the mix will look like strong coffee. Remember, you can always add more Oils to the mix. If it looks too light, add more. For the roadwheels and lower portions, I like to make it a tad darker. It looks more like grease, dirt and mud. I will not go that dark on the upper hull or hatches.

Also, keep mixing the wash with your brush. The oil paint tends to sit on the bottom of the pallette (or bowl or whatever you will use to mix)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 18, 2003 3:54 PM
Okieboy :

He's reliable . My parts got to my US friend last week . He was placing an order , so I asked him to lump me in too , and then I paid him .

Unfortunately , USPS decided to play football with it , and tore the shipping label off it , it only made it back to him due to a partial 'from' addy and distinctive packing tape that the local depot recognised . Its going out again ... hopefully this time it'll reach me ...

Kuma :

Odds are all the Tiger's he has have 4's ... if they don't have 4's , they are 1's . Ask him , and he can tell ya .

As for difference , the 4's still leave one plastic gear , presumably as a 'shear' point , but you still cant get that gear separately if you wreck it . BUT ... its a fair bit closer to scale . Put the metal tracks on it , and Zagi's inside ( instea of the stock motors , and it runs about really close to dead on .

I wasn't on this morning : my Blizzard DX came . Damn its in great shape for an original . Could use a new body , tracks & mebbe springs , is missing one of the old-type speed controls & the lights , but has the prized plow-blade . Roadwheel rubber is in VG shape !

It was dirty though ... thats why I was off , stripped it & cleaned it . Am re-assembling now .

WhiteWolf ( assembling a prospective tracked APC )
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Steeler Country
Posted by Kumy on Thursday, September 18, 2003 5:13 PM
Thanks Whitewolf for answering my boatload of questions Smile [:)]

I wont even ask about the Zagi's Tongue [:P]

I think I'll be broke enough just getting the rest of the tank!!

I'm lookin at pictures on that website. It'll probably take me a year to build! That Aber set looks insane [:0]
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 18, 2003 5:31 PM
Where can you get the Zagi motor's?
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, September 18, 2003 11:02 PM
Zagi Motors :

The Zagi's are one of the ~core~ mods , even as base as putting the bearings into a Sherman or Pershing .

Why ? The stock Mabuchi is just that , ~stock~ , ie. toy quality . The Zagi was meant to spin props on what are termed 'park fliers' & 'combat foamies' . They have about the same RPM , maybe a bit less , but a fair bit more torque , especially on the low end .

Example : you eas in the throttle , and the tank goes from stationary into low run with a lurch . Thats the motor struggling to overcome the inertia in the gearbox . The Zagi Will reduce that , and give you a smoother startup , and lower slow speeds .

zagi.com , the grey box in the upper left corner , Price List , the Motors & Props , Motor - Zagi 400 , 6 volt . Price , $8 each .

Now , that said , I see they have a reverse rotation Zagi ... and by rights , one of the motors does run in reverse ... so perhaps one of each is a better choice .

Either way , $16 to $18 plus shipping is worth it , no ?

PS : We did a bulk order as an RC group , 100 motors , and got 'em for $2.50 a pop , but they dinna have reverses then . I got one pair awaiting those Tiger one boxes ...
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Steeler Country
Posted by Kumy on Friday, September 19, 2003 5:28 AM
Well thats cheap by comparison to the rest of the prices that have sent me into deep shock [:0]

So what your sayin is that if you were to order now you would order one normal and one reverse zagi motor? Not sure I understand this really Question [?]

And I think this will take me over a year to build Angry [:(!]
  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Steeler Country
Posted by Kumy on Friday, September 19, 2003 5:45 AM
Take a look at this and tell me what this is?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3146319405

It looks like the RC version of the Tiger 1 but I'm not positive. The box doesn't look like Erocks or the other ones I've been seeing. Could this be an old one or is this a static?
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by okieboy on Friday, September 19, 2003 6:32 AM
WWMcB,

Darn it! I just bought two Zagi 400s yesterday, but I told them I wanted two regular ones; not reverse! Angry [:(!] Can I simply reverse the wiring on one of them to get it to run in reverse? Wink [;)] I sent my order to Dirk 2 weeks ago, bout' how long does it take to get the parts back?

Roy
"We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence upon those who would do us harm." George Orwell
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, September 19, 2003 6:50 AM
Kumakichi,

I read the description and I didn't see anything about gun recoil and sound. You may want to contact the seller and ask him. I would also ask the seller what the Tamiya part number is.

This is the first time I have seen this kit. It may be an out of production kit but, you would figure that the price would be higher if that was the case.
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: USA
Posted by okieboy on Friday, September 19, 2003 6:57 AM
Hey Erock, I just checked in at your website, nice looking wash on the road wheels. Smile [:)] So let me get this straight... you primed the wheels, applied a base coat, then a gloss coat, applied the wash, when the was it wiped off and dry you will then apply a dull coat, and then you will apply the red and brown camoflage colors? [:0]
I'm temporarily out of business until "Isabel" gets the hell out of my area and takes the rain with her...Dead [xx(]

Roy
"We sleep safe in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence upon those who would do us harm." George Orwell
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, September 19, 2003 7:04 AM
Kumakichi,

Make sure that these 2 units are included. These, along with the speaker unit, are included in the 1/16 DMD Full Option kit:



Roy,

After doing some further reference work, I found that Wittmann's #S04 Didn't have the Brown and Green camo on the wheels, just on the upper hull and turret.

All the steps you mentioned are exactly how I painted them. Primer, Dark Yellow Base (a few seperate coats), Gloss, Wash, Wipe, Dull Smile [:)]

I would have painted the Brown and Green on the wheels before the wash.

PS......Isabel is pounding us with rain right now, here in Ohio. Started raining heavy last night around 10:00pm
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