ARMOR - Tamiya 1/16 Tiger 1 Group Build

WhiteWolf,

Sounds like I will buy a pair of new Type 4's and install them as I'm getting an old 56010 kit. I do have a couple of questions though.

You mention that some of the dealers retrofited some of the old kits with the Type 4 motors?

If this is the case I guess I better wait until I receive the kit before I decide to buy new type 4's.

Do I order the same Type 4's that are in the King Tiger kit?

When you refer to the Hex nuts, these are the standard hex nuts that come with the motors, right?

Are the mounting holes in the hull the same for the Tiger 1 and King Tiger?

Also you mention RCACN rules, yes we will be using RCACN rules. Does anyone still sell the reduction gears that you know of? A pointer would be appreciated.

Thanks for all your help! It is really appreciated.

Just trying to plan out my build so I can get it up and functioning as soon as possible after Christmas, at my son's age of 11, paitience isn't a virtue yet. :-)

Morgan

Morgan:

Best to wait... if its got the Type 4's already, saves you a hundred $ right there. Yes, the part numbers will be the same as in the KT 56018 kit: 4205029 (left) and 4205030 (right)

No on the hex-pieces. I mean the brass standoff's that go into the bottom of the gearboxes so you can bolt them to the chassis. They mount one way in a KT, another pattern for the Tiger. You can use the same hardware, but the studs need to be moved. No big deal, but don't over-torque, or you'll strip out the aluminum ( light finger tight with the Tamiya locktite! )

You may want to swap the final shafts too, as I noted a while back there is a slight length difference.

Willy was the only supplier of economical reductions... but you have to be very patient as he is very slow replying to e-mails: willy@CustomRCModels.com.

Take your time, the next Danville battle isn't until March 19-20, according to the AAF Tank Museum site.

If you don't manage to get your reductions by then, They can fit you with a few diodes to 'make do' so you can battle.

Morgan:
If you could not wait for Willy, I posted a little thing about building your own gear reduction in armornuts about a month ago. You may want to give it a try. search for "ct_mazi"

hello been reading all you postings and thought that i would post my pic of my kingtiger i bought this off ebay and need a good paint stripper due to paint has spotting also converting another kingtiger to a jagdtiger need a barrel can swap for a king tiger metal barrel anyone and cut up my hull going to do the metal next week

has any one gotten the new 1/16 heng long tiger tank yet if so can you tell me what it is like

http://www.tigerbuild.co.uk/steelwheels.html
link for making your own steel wheels for your tiger 1

http://www.axels-modellbau-shop.de/store/
http://homepage.hispeed.ch/war.of.art/rc_king_tiger.htm
http://www.dave4what.com/index.html
http://soc.maxwell.af.mil/bunker.htm
http://www.battletanks.com/jadtiger.htm
http://www.customrcmodels.com/index.htm
http://tiger1.info/
http://tiger1.info/bigtig/alter.html
http://tiger1.info/bigtig/alter.html
just some of the web sites that i use some are in german and some not

http://nacismus.mysteria.cz/reichgalerie/warkampf.php?strana=9
this has loads of pics of panzers but the content is iffy

http://www.wecohe.de/

site for conversion to larrge scale tanks

Also this site is great...

www.backyardarmor.com

TigerLeaderGrey

We already know about most of 'em. Ask Willy Loewer about the Hen Long Tigers, think he was selling 'em. That or ask in the Yahoo ArmorHut group.

As for styrene strippers, you can use either Easy Off oven cleaner (get the non-aerosol ~pump~ bottle) or Castrol SuperClean car care product (in Canada its in a purple pump bottle) If you can find it, Mean Green also works.

You want to remove ALL metal parts first, and then get a big tupperware bin to hold your stuff, with a lid (otherwise the fumes will be NASTY) Spray parts, and then cover the bin, and wait about 2 hours. Then go back, and using the stuff thats drained to the bottom, an old scrub or tooth brush, and scrub at the paint. I've stripped enamel and acrylic with it without harming styrene, without frosting lexan, and even on resin figs. Works great on lead mini's too! (BattleTech, etc)

You can recycle the liquid stuff a few times before it won't strip any more, I collect the drain-off, filter it with coffee filters, and use it for dosing #2 (to get in nooks and crannies #1 dinna get)

If you need to debond styrene, use the Tenax-R solvent glue. I use the cheaper Canadian equivalent from MBS, and rarely use tube glues any more.

And you forgot the new guys on the block that import WeCoHe and SchumoKits & Axel ModelBauShop stuff a bit cheaper than Backyard Armor: Bob Hearne at ETO Armor - bob@etoarmor.com

PS: He's the guys that got me the stuff from Dirk when all else failed.

Tigerleadergrey: There is a Yahoo forum that deals with the Hen Long 1/16 Tiger: It's called the Marui Tank Group and their address is: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/MaruiTankGroup/ Willy is an active participant there. His website is also very informative: http://www.customrcmodels.com/Tanks/id82.htm

Lester

many thanks for the links

Just want to wish all you Tiger people a very Happy New Year,
many thanks for all the info.,[esp.WW] & get us moved back to
the front of the list!!!
Roowalker

Happy New Year to everyone.
I recently got some stuff from backyard armor. I got the early Tiger Metal tracks, antennae, turret side track link holders and suspension upgrade kit. All seems to be first class stuff.
I read White Wolfs post from way back in 8/2003 about making the metal tracks look authentic. Soaking them in "blacken - it" then painting them in gun metal with a wash of rust. Sounds pretty good.
Could I just use Tamiya metal primer and acrylics to paint them without using a blackening/blueing solution first?
Any ideas? How do you folks like your metal tracks?

As a former tanker,and looking for modeling tips at the same time...
All metal tracks I saw were a dull rust / earth combination.. if any
portions became shiny from wear, it disappeared overnight.
I like to use Floquil railroad color "Rail Brown" & then apply
a dark brown-black wash. Then a VERY LIGHT gun-metal
dry-brush. Experiment a bit... Its real easy to over-do the
dry-brush & IMHO that makes it look hokey....
Roowalker

check out this static 1/16 tiger built
http://www.armorama.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=SquawkBox&file=index&req=viewtopic&topic_id=28285&page=1

New parts from BYA...

Just went looking, and saw that SchumoKits is making the S-mine launcher assemblies for the Tiger 1. Another frail bit (that looks to be a pain to assemble) cast as metal. God knows how much it will run us though...

I have to admit, their T1 track holders look better than Aber's, but aren't cheap either.

They are also carrying copies of the T1 track guides (the nose-piece often seen on eBay) at a comparable price. How long before they make us a full tool set?

Thanx,W.W. They got to be less of a hassle than the Aber items,
& yes, probably expensive.They do make a unique addition,however.
Gonna get a set & I'll post to advise how they work.
Roowalker

great news on the s-mines launchers, can't wait for them to come out - you never know, i might finally be able to finish my kitty. Wonder if they'll do the toolbox as well as the starter crank thing?!

Would anyone know of a better place to discuss or read on settings or simple ways to make the RC tiger respond better to radio input?

I have done a variety of calibrations with not much difference to the movement of my Tiger. I have emailed Willy a few weeks ago RE: the gear reductions but he has not replied to me so im trying to see if there is any other way I can slow my tank down to more manageable speeds.

It just moves too fast to be accurate or safe in a confined area.

Drew:

The RCACN guys use a diode jumper to solve the problem. If any of your Texans are going to the gathering at the end of Jan, they might try to prod Willy a bit (yea, I know he can be VERY slow, and is terrible about reply e-mails)

Ask the RCACN guys if they'll cough up the jumper diagram and specs, if thats the way you want to go.

A final option is finding someone that can get Kyosho parts. I've seen a reduction on eBay that loosa a LOT like willy's at about $13 each, no motor. Next time I see it, I'll log the part #.

Drew,

This is what i did for the gear reduction:

I bought 2 sets of gear box from
http://www.jkaerotech.com/electric.htm. Each set came with 3
pinions for different ratios (2:1, 2.5:1, and 3:1). I also got two
new s400 motors from Tower Hobbies. I used the smallest pinion for
the motor, and the mid size one on the output shaft of reduction
box. I had to drill the pinion to fit the output shaft, which is
4mm. I marked, drilled, and bolted the reduction set to the gear
box using the two existing motor holes, with the small machine
screws and bolts (m2.5) from the hardware store. I did not need to
cut anything off the black plastic covers.

I used the pictures on Willy's site for references. It was very
helpful.

I did this about 2 months ago, but have not finished the kit yet. One thing you may want to do is to try to mount the right motor as close to the original location as possible (may have to cut the plastic cover a little for this), else you will have problem with the batteries fitting. I found that i got a little bit more room by not installing the steel plate for the electronics.

E Rush she looks great. I just got into the1/16 scale kits and loveing it.

Hello all,

Hoping that the experienced Tiger 1 builders can give me a hand with some questions.

I'm in the process of building my son's tiger 1 early production 56010. I noticed that this kit requires two 7.2v batteries instead of 1 like my Tiger 2.

Question 1: If I use a high MAH runtime, single 7.2v battery, can I use a splitter to go to the MF-01 and the T03 eliminating the need for one battery?

My concern is that I have a pair of these 3300 mah batteries and when I charged them the other day they go so hot that I thought it would melt the plastic of the tank when they charge. My intent is to leave the battery/batteries in the tank and charge it with a charging plug under the driver hatch like I did with my T2. My T2 3300 battery doesn't get nearly as hot as these.

Right now with my T2 I have a plug as I mentioned above to charge the 3300mah battery inside.

Question 2: Is there a potential problem with charging the battery while it is plugged into the rest of the electronics?

Question 3: So far it is working fine but should I put a 3 way switch in that would switch between battery only for charging and being online with the rest of the electronics?

Any suggestions/advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, Morgan

Morgan:

Ni-MH or Ni-CD? It will make a bit of a difference, but I'll address that later.

One: Yes, you can make a splitter to use one battery for both devices, just make sure you maintain the polarities on all the plugs, and you wire it in ~parallel~ (all negs. on one line, all pos. on the other)

Two: If you're batteries get hot, you're are probably using an incorrect charge setting, probably a fast-charger, correct? You may want to lower the amperage setting, and charge the batteries at a slower rate. If you can't place your hand on the batteries and hold it there comfortably, the rate is TOO fast!

NEVER use a Ni-CD charger for Ni-MH batteries! Its the best way to BLOW THEM UP! Use a proper Ni-MH charger, as they are not made the same way...

Three: You ~shouldn't~ be charging your batteries while they are inside the tank! If they DO heat up or explode, you've destroyed not only the battery, but the tank, and probably the DMD, MF and radio gear too!

There is also a chance of a short developing in the switch (if it overheats/melts), putting the charge voltage/amperage thru the electronics. You want to take that risk, go ahead, but I'd advise NOT doing it, as the replacement gear runs over $400 a pop, right? I've seen someone cook off a Rx, Servos & ESC that way, it was ~not~ pretty...

(with 20 years of R/C experience, but ~still~ not an expert...)

WhiteWolf,

My batteries and chargers are NiMH. The charger is a fully automatic fast charger with trickle. I will try to charge the new batteries at 2 amps instead of 4. It is strange because my other battery I can charge at 4 amps without any heat issues.

You are right about charging it in the tank. I was being lazy about taking it apart and then re-assembling the tank when I wanted to battle. I guess I should have two spares one for each tank. Then at least I don't have to wait as long and could have a set of batteries charged.

I appreciate all your answers over the past year as I build these tanks! It is a tremendous help and it's good to know if I'm on the right track or way off.

Thanks, Morgan

Guys,

My son said the other day that it would be cool if you could have a tank battle with all the other sound effects like explosions etc..

I once found, but did not keep the URL, a company that makes sound effect systems that work with the Tamiya battle system.

Does anyone know of these products, the name of the company and if they work or not?

Thanks, Morgan

Tamiya releasing XB Tanks? Germany only!

http://www.tamiya.de/produkte/militaer/rcpanzer.htm (corrected)

Two Tiger 1 patterns, plus KT in ambush, and simple Pershing OD.

Interesting to note that they say it has two 540's... they fitting Leo boxes into 'em, or is it a typo? And it does say 'with special functions' so they are ~probably~ MF's...

Guess we'll have to wait for the 'Shizuoka' show in Japan, to see if Tamiya is gonna hint at a tank global-release...

This link should work.

http://www.tamiya.de/produkte/militaer/rcpanzer.htm