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  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Saturday, March 17, 2007 4:29 PM

Impressive. My F-82 will be in 1/72 scale- the old Monogram kit.

I recently joined the Airfix Welcome Back forum- what a dud, no posts in two weeks.

Any one interested in insights into the Testors B-58, Revell/M B-52 or B-36, all at 1/72, just let me know.

Great GB, I hope to make the C-54 into pieces this week.

Bondoman

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Posted by DantheMan85 on Sunday, March 18, 2007 5:09 PM

Well I made some more progress today, glueing the wings on.

 

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: SW Illinois
Posted by texgal45 on Sunday, March 18, 2007 11:48 PM

Nice work on the Stratojet.  That is going to be a rather LARGE model.  How are you going to do the NMF?

Grandma L

 

bred, born & raised in North Texas, now displaced to Yankee Land

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: 40 klicks east of the Gateway
Posted by yardbird78 on Sunday, March 18, 2007 11:52 PM

Nice work so far.  The B-47 has always been one of my favorites.  I really liked it back when I was a kid, before I knew what a B-52 was.  The 47s were all retired before I got into working with the big bombers in SAC.

Darwin, O.F. Alien [alien]

 ,,

The B-52 and me, we have grown old, gray and overweight together.

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Casa Grande, Az.
Posted by DesertRat on Monday, March 19, 2007 2:21 AM

Banged Head [banghead]Ok guys, i think i botched it here. I've been working a little more with the wings and i had attached the wingtips last night. But today after scrutinizing them and the instruction booklet a little harder, it looks like i've screwed up. Take a look:

Now for some reason, the kit gave me 2 types of tips (the booklet instructs you to throw these ones away). They are supposed to be flat panel tips and not the cylindrical tips mounted that you see here. I guess they might've been meant for a different version. But they sure are glued in there pretty good. Is there something out there that will dissolve the glue without damaging the plastic? I think if i try to pry it or cut it, i'm likely to ruin the wings all together. Or would my best option would be to just let it be? What say y'all?Confused [%-)]

Warmest regards,

Roger

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: 40 klicks east of the Gateway
Posted by yardbird78 on Monday, March 19, 2007 10:27 AM

The original small U-2 had only the flat tip plate or skid plate at the end of the wing.  I think the first of the large U-2R or TR-1, whichever you want to call it, had just the flat plate also.  The cylindrical thing is a threat waning receiver that was added a little later in life.

 Darwin, O.F. Alien [alien]

 ,,

The B-52 and me, we have grown old, gray and overweight together.

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Monday, March 19, 2007 10:29 AM

D-Rat: I'd say first of all, make sure that it's not the right pod. Take a look at this link for photos; the pods in question show up mounted on what seems to be a U-2"R/S". Also check out all of the cute little blade antennas.

http://www.clubhyper.com/reference/u2sdwa_2.htm

Others in the GB probably have better info.

If they must go, and you used plastic cement, you'll probably be able to grab it and pull it off. Otherwise, I reccomend the saw.

BTW here is a tip for sanding the insides of the intakes- always a hassle.

Bondoman

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: MACCLESFIELD
Posted by ajsr71u2 on Monday, March 19, 2007 11:03 AM

The wing pods are  Litton ALR-46 ( System 27) Digital radar recieving anttenns on both wing tips. Current version being System 27-1. These are usally carried when on a mission.

These were carried on U-2R's and TR-1A's from the late 1970's to the present day. So they are good for the U-2S as well.

They would not be carried on U-2R's in the late 60 / early 70's although some of these aircraft are still flying today and are currently equiped. 

 

AJ

 

MEMBER: ROADRUNNERS INTERNATIONALE, A-12 / YF-12A / M-21 DRAGON LADY ASSOCIATION, U-2 BLACKBIRD ASSOCIATION, SR-71 / U-2 SUPPORTER OF THE 4080th SRW, U-2
  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Casa Grande, Az.
Posted by DesertRat on Monday, March 19, 2007 12:20 PM

Well thanks for the heads up, guys. Between the link and the general consencous, it seems like i have no problems after all!Big Smile [:D] I think i'm just gonna let it ride as is.

 

But lessoned learned though. I need to pay closer attention to what i'm doing when i'm working on a build. And having better research material on hand would be a good idea too. Thanks guys!

Warmest regards,

Roger

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Tuesday, March 20, 2007 12:45 AM

 

Got the C-47 finished.

The C-46.

Here's the first shots of the C-54.

Set the cut lines out in tape from the "plan"

spray the area for cutting lines. Cut short and will sand to final dimension.

Ouch.

D-Rat. I couldn't tell front from back on the wingtip shot, but the little collision light on the side of that pod is tear shaped and should point forward. Sand down the mold line with a fingertip sand paper or stick, anbd then put a khaki dot on the end like the photos showed and you'll be the boss!!

FMM- I didn't realize how "box" the B-47 cross section is. Look forward to your progress.

AJ- welcome in!! and Yardbird: After this GB want to build a EC-121: all pro knowledge is more than welcome.

Bondoman

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Tuesday, March 20, 2007 1:16 AM

Buddy D-Rat you only get better with age. Notice the shot of Airman Jim sanding out the intakes of the U-2: the interior is GREEN which I have never seen before in a model of this aircraft. The usual thing is FOD covers, or black in there.

I'd suggest you pick a tail number and really go after shots of it- splicing decals to get the ### will be the least of it. Between advice from AJ, Yardbird, FMM and the www you really could build the killer Dragon Lady.

BTW how is the wife: on deployment? Wish the best.

B-Man

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Casa Grande, Az.
Posted by DesertRat on Tuesday, March 20, 2007 1:39 AM

I keep looking at that picture and keep thinking that that would be a really bad time to start the engines! It would prove to be a most "bumpy" flight (not to mention ruining Airman Jims day!)

   Thanks Bondo! It's been a couple of weeks since i've heard from her last, but at this point i'm thinking no news is good news. She is scheduled to be home in June, and this late in the game i remember all hell breaking loose in getting ready to get outta there in a matter of weeks. Part of the reason i had come back to the bench after all these years is partly to keep me from thinking entirely too much (never a good thing). In the past, it was always me that was deployed and her keeping the homefires burning. But this time being her it has been an all new experience. I'll just be glad when she is home.......

 

   Anyways, back to the bench. After deciding that i'll most lekely good with the wings, i've moved onto the landing gear. I'm gonna try to break out the airbrush and hit up the insides of the wheel wells with Zinc Chromate, and then just brush the rest. Trying to mask the wheels themselves has been a challenge, and i had forgotten just how hard it is to get a good round mask. The forward landing gear wheels should come out fine, since there was some deep recesses in the rims i could get my fingernail into. It's the smaller wheels on the rear landing gear that i'm struggling with though. And i think the hardest part is just getting the tape to stay down on the edges. But after messing with it, i put on the flat black and now it's curing. I'll wait until morning to see how rough it is.

   I'm also looking ahead a little here too, and i can see another part that i'm gonna struggle on. That is the canopy. The windscreen is fine, but the rest of it is gonna be tough. All the recessed lines that i would use to mask are actually on the inside (which i've never seen before). I'll be masking a completely smooth surface, so it'll all be freehand. Since my hand is not that steady with an exacto knife, i guess i don't have to tell you guys that i'm kinda dreading thatYuck [yuck]

Warmest regards,

Roger

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Casa Grande, Az.
Posted by DesertRat on Tuesday, March 20, 2007 1:47 AM

Wow! SOmehow i had missed the picture of the completed C-47! You make me wanna start singing airborne cadences, you know that? Nice!Big Smile [:D]

I'll see what i can do about the landing lights on the wingtips. But as i look at it, it just appears to me that there are points on both sides. One of em has got to be flash. So i'll hit that up in the morning after my 3rd or 4th pot of coffee. (gotta love time off!)Cool [8D]

Warmest regards,

Roger

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: MACCLESFIELD
Posted by ajsr71u2 on Tuesday, March 20, 2007 12:03 PM

Couple of pictures of those FOD gaurds-   One set with 9th RW and one set with ACC emblems. 

 

MEMBER: ROADRUNNERS INTERNATIONALE, A-12 / YF-12A / M-21 DRAGON LADY ASSOCIATION, U-2 BLACKBIRD ASSOCIATION, SR-71 / U-2 SUPPORTER OF THE 4080th SRW, U-2
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Posted by DantheMan85 on Wednesday, March 21, 2007 9:47 PM

Texgal45, Haven't got a clue as what NMF is? Care to fill me in.

Work on both Stratojet, and Blackbird have been slow.  Only way I got time is on the weekend, does anyone know who and if anyone makes the color "Dark Aluminum"  or how to mix it?

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: SW Illinois
Posted by texgal45 on Wednesday, March 21, 2007 11:20 PM

FMM.

NMF is short for Natural Metal Finish.  BMF is short for Bare Metal Finish and as far as I know, the two terms mean pretty much the same thing.  Of course, you have to take into consideration what kind of "natural metal" you are talking about.  Various planes have aluminum, titanium, magnesium, steel, stainless steel, plus various alloys.  Take a look at an unpainted F-4, F-15, F-16, F/A-18, etc.  They are a patchwork of colors due to the different metals and composite material used in the skin surface.  Most of the WW-II planes and early jets used aluminum for the skin, but it changed color somewhat depending on how new or weathered it was (read that time baking in the hot sun).  A lot of the Air National Guard and AF Reserve units keep their aircraft in spit-polished condition.  Extremely clean and some even literally polished the aluminum exterior to a bright, almost mirror like shine.  Take a look at these 3 pictures of F-84F's and notice the differences in skin color and shininess.

Grandma L

 

bred, born & raised in North Texas, now displaced to Yankee Land

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Thursday, March 22, 2007 12:49 AM

FMM- the only maker of "Dark Aluminum" I'm aware of is Alclad 2. I used it on a DC-6, and in my opinion it is too dark at 1/72 scale for a bare aluminum finish. Airman Jim used it on a 1/24 P-51 and it looked OK, but dark. I really couldn't think of a good use for it: Alclad cannot be mixed in shades.

DC-6:

Also in Alclad, I've used "Aluminum" which is dark too, but OK if you put Future on it to make it have highlights. Like on airliners, where we are used to pictures of them in the rain, etc. where they look dark, but fighters usually are thought of as being in bright light. See the Connie at the top:

My only reccomended Alclad color for 1/72 big airplanes is "White Aluminum". I also used "Chrome" on the B-36 for the actual aluminum (pressurized) areas: the magnesium areas were painted "Aluminum" and "White Aluminum", which are darker.

Besides Alclad, and for the big aircraft, I've had success with the Testors Metallizer in shaker cans. My BUFF, while frankly not well done, did get non-buffing aluminum spray over white enamel primer and looks pretty good.

For some reason unknown, my B-58 was a near death experience. I used Testors gray primer, then Silver Metallizer. Big orange peels. Sand off, then regular Testors Silver. OK but not good. Strip the whole deal, Testors White Primer, then Silver which was ok.

For the B-47 IN CONCLUSION:

Clean the model really well, with soap and water in the sink.

Let it dry.

Put on latex gloves.

Wipe the whole deal down with Polly Scale plastic cleaner- pink stuff in a bottle, no substitutes.

ALWAYS wearing gloves, and I mean it cuz one fingerprint will ruin your weekend,

Spray the aircraft with a gloss black coat of Testors black acrylic.

Spray with Alclad "White Aluminum". If you have an Aztek, use the Gray tip. Use lacquer thinner to clean the Air Brush. Really work at a clean process. Fingerprints are your enemy. It won't dry as fast as you would like, give each coat a day, and you'll need at least a couple.

Masking over Alclad is not a good concept. If you have to, use micro amounts of tape and as much paper as possible. Alclad does not like superglue: it turns black.

I do not reccomend putting Future on Alclad, it gets mottled. Testors Gloss or Dulcote seems to be OK.

Alclad CANNOT be brush applied.

I am not successful or gudinuf to do the various shades of panels that are in the magazine shots of natural airplanes because I'm usually defeated by the masking.

A lot of aircraft that are supposedly natural (NMF) are actually painted an aluminum color, like C-124's, in which case Testors Silver in the shaker can is really the way to go. Always check: I'm certain that for the B-47 it was really aluminum.

I like Alclad, but the trick is to plan around it so that it is as close to last as possible. Decaling onto it takes some thought, since Future is not a good base. I usually photo copy the decal sheet a bunch, cut out a loose mask for each decal, hold it slightly above the wing and spray some Glosscote from a can onto the area, let dry and decal.

Bondoman

 

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Lexington Ky
Posted by nebrnative on Saturday, March 24, 2007 1:59 PM
I know I am a bit late to join this build, but I have a Hasegawa 1/200 KC-10a that is begging to be built plus my family has a history of being involved in SAC, so this one is for the family too. After a long lay off I am going to give it a shot. However, when I opened the box that has been in storage for a while (years, I knew I would be back). The main set of decals is severely cracked. If anyone has an old set laying around or I would be more than happy to pay for them. If not I am going to have to venture into the world of making my own decals.

BK
On the bench: 1/200 KC-10a - 15% complete 1/72 KC-135R - 05% 1/72 C-130H - warming up in the bullpen
  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Saturday, March 24, 2007 6:57 PM

HI- some of the time, spraying the sheet with a couple of coats of glosscote, then cut them out carefully, might work. Yellowing is easy to fix- two weeks in a dry window does it.

But before you do anything, and if they aren't yellow, get them scanned on a good scanner. Others in this GB may have ideas about printing them- I think the problem is the white. I'm gonna look for a set for you- as they say I "know some people"..

Bondoman

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Lexington Ky
Posted by nebrnative on Saturday, March 24, 2007 7:49 PM
Hey thanks. I am going to give that a try. I will scan them first. I have access to a fairly good quality scanner. But I would take an other set if someone had one. Thanks again. BK
On the bench: 1/200 KC-10a - 15% complete 1/72 KC-135R - 05% 1/72 C-130H - warming up in the bullpen
  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Posted by DantheMan85 on Saturday, March 24, 2007 10:31 PM
Welcome in to the bulid nebrnative, your Nasegawa 1/200 KC-10a will be put marked down.

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:35 AM

One more idea- Microscale "Liquid Decal Film". Apparently you brush a liberal coat over the sheet, let it dry and then cut them out. I'll bet that Elmers is about as good, and really might work...

I'm glad you're in- thanks FMM- we don't have a tanker yet.

B-Man

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:37 AM

Tex- lets compare notes: (my failures) about NMF. I am a rank beginner. What are yougoing to model?

Bondoman

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: SW Illinois
Posted by texgal45 on Sunday, March 25, 2007 9:33 AM
 bondoman wrote:

Tex- lets compare notes: (my failures) about NMF. I am a rank beginner. What are yougoing to model?Bondoman

I don't know as yet what model I will be doing next.  I may branch out and do one that requires the use of an airbrush.  I have never used one and wouldn't know where to start.  I guess I should jump in and learn.

I have built only three models in my life, the first one less than a year ago.  All three were NMF and used the same basic method.  #3 below.

I have done a lot of reading on this forum and the ARC forum, www.arcair.com   and I have seen 3 basic "systems" or methods of doing NMF.

1. Alclad laquer.  Alcald is airbrush only and is available in a variety of shades.  There are some specific rules that must be followed, but it seems as though the average modeler can do this.  You don't have to be the top of the pyramid in experience or talent, although that does help.  Advocates claim this stuff is very durable and hard to damage.  You can mask over it, paint over it, bump it, handle with bare fingers, etc without destroying it.

2. SNJ buffing paints.  I don't know anything about this stuff

3. Testor's Model Master metallics.  These are available in bottles for airbrush use and in aerosol cans.  They are available in a variety of metal shades and in "buffing" and "non-buffing" versions.  These paints are fairly fragile.  Masking tape will frequently "lift" the paint when removed, they will rub off on your fingers during handling, bare fingers will leave non-removeable prints, clear oversprays of enamel or laquer or acrylics will change the color and remove most of the shinyness of the buffed shades. 

Grandma L

 

bred, born & raised in North Texas, now displaced to Yankee Land

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Cincinnati Ohio
Posted by DantheMan85 on Sunday, March 25, 2007 10:43 AM
I would like to try the BMF on my B-47, but I would to try something that is for a beginner.  I can till on those finished models, the end product looks outstanding!!

On my Work Bench: Tamiya Ford GT 1/24

Up Coming: ?

           

 

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Sunday, March 25, 2007 12:33 PM

Tex lists the options I know about, plus there is the possibility of bare metal foil, which I've never tried, but might start with on a little fighter or some such. That F-84 she showed might be the ticket.

I haven't tried snj either.

Alclad is really nice, but it takes familiarity with an airbrush, plus if you are using it, since it is lacquer, there are some significant environmental issues. A good face mask and a vented spray booth at a minimum, plus a plan for getting rid of the spoiled thinner etc.

I'd endorse Testors for both of you. Just pay attention to the proper primer, and gloss coats will help solve the tenderness problems, which do exist. You want to do things like paint the anti glare panels, tail colors etc. first and then mask for the metallizer, which goes last. But it looks good, see below:

not exactly show quality craftsmanship, but I'm ok with it.

Another good idea would be to get a piece of junk kit, preferably Hasegawa for you FMM, and experiment away. I've got the guts of an old Haseg. Orion somewhere, but I don't think I've got any big parts. But definitely do that with some thrift store kit- car, plane whatever.

Good luck, and I'm eager to see the results. It'll go fine, I'm sure.

Bondoman

On the bench;

C-54 (-10%) in pieces.

F-82 (0%)

C-46 (50%) not this GB; to be finished before the new stuff.

Ford Trimotor (0%) another GB

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Casa Grande, Az.
Posted by DesertRat on Monday, March 26, 2007 12:22 AM

"Based on the needs of the Army..."

if many of you aren't familiar with this catch phrase, it simply means that you are subject to go anywhere or do anything as neccessary. Sorry for my absence the last few days- to include the absolute lack of progress. It seems that i have a bit of a detour here, and it looks like i'll be stepping away from the bench for a couple of months. I had found out on thursday that i'm supposed to be in Pennsylvania no later than the 9th of April, and i'll be there for 8 weeks. Reason being that i have to get certified on a different airframe here, and this is the only course that i could get scheduled. So, that being said, it looks like i'll be a-workin with the 1/1 scale aircraft until Memorial day. So in the meantime, i've got alotta prep work within the household before i go. Will wonders never cease! Cowboy [C):-)]

 

At least i know i wont fall too behind the power curve. Thank god for the december end date!Make a Toast [#toast]

Warmest regards,

Roger

  • Member since
    January 2003
  • From: 40 klicks east of the Gateway
Posted by yardbird78 on Monday, March 26, 2007 8:08 AM

Good luck and best wishes on your TDY to the school house.  Which new airframe will you be working on?  I know where you are coming from with the "needs of the military" phrase.  My 21 years in the Air Force included 11 years of TDY trips, many with little or no notice.

Darwin, O.F. Alien [alien]

 ,,

The B-52 and me, we have grown old, gray and overweight together.

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: Carmel, CA
Posted by bondoman on Monday, March 26, 2007 9:33 AM

Yes, best wishes and keep in touch if you can. I'd be very interested to hear what you are doing. I glued half of the C-54 back together last night, and surprised myself in that the pieces all went together really square. I used Airman Jim's miter chop saw bed as a square for sanding.

Bondoman

On the bench- C-54 (10%)

  • Member since
    February 2007
  • From: Casa Grande, Az.
Posted by DesertRat on Monday, March 26, 2007 3:54 PM
Thanks guys! For some reason i don't quite understand, it seems like more than 50% of the last few years i had been TDY. But with the reorganization the unit is undergoing, it's forcing be to reclassify. I'm an AH-64A Crew Chief with 8 years experience. But seeing as how those are going away from us, i'll be going to school for a UH-60L "Crash Hawk". Well, if nothing else, at least i get to go give the Amish a hard time on the weekends. Maybe even see some of the sights in and around Penn.Cowboy [C):-)]

Warmest regards,

Roger

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