Classic Kit GB [Official Thread]

Finally got the instrument panel to an acceptable (if not great) place by using stretched sprue.  Not knowing what I was doing, I first tried using the very tip of the sprue as a sort of single strand paint brush - didn't work.  Then I tried dragging the side of the sprue across what little raised detail there is on the panels.  That worked fine as long as I was careful not to get the sprue too close to the back part of the panel.  I'll try and post some pictures soon.

As for the primer - yeah, it is strange.  As I said, it was an experiment and I think I'll stick with straight paint until I have a problem.  I sort of forgot the "If it ain't broken, don't fix it." rule.  Looking forward to seeing what you guys do with the SBDs.  I remember having that kit as a kid (a long, long time ago). 

Don't want you guys to think I have Bailed out on you or something like that. I have been trying to finish up the Partial Builts taking up my workbench. You know those projects that get sidelined because you do not have the right color of paint .                                                      Sean
 

I havent tried the Tamiya primer, but I almost always prime all my models with Wal-mart's $.94 equipment grey primer.  Works great. 

As for the IP, try using a silver pencil instead of dry brushing.  It might work.   So far the only problems I'm having with the A3D is the basic "it dont fit" problem.  

drdull wrote:

Don't know if its 'kit age' related, or my age related, or lack of basic skills, but I'm on my third try with this %#&! AT-6 instrument panel.  The molded on detail just doesn't seem to have enough relief to catch enough paint off a dry brush to make it stand out.  I have some Mike Grant instrument decals and a Waldron punch set and I have been tempted to use them for the instrument faces.  My plan is to give the panel one more shot - this time using stretched sprue as a paint carrier.  We'll see how that works. By the way, I made an interesting (to me) observation during the paint-swear-strip-paint (repeat) operation.  I use Tamiya acrylics and do not usually use a primer.  For this build I experimented with Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer (L).  I found that the acrylic paint came right off the parts that had been primed (just using a regular kitchen cleaner spray "Fantastic" to strip the paint) but the paint stuck strongly to the parts that had not been primed.  I would have expected exactly the opposite - isn't that what a primer is for? Barry

That's wierd, but I've never used a primer with Tamiya acryls and they seem to do just fine. I only use a primer with Alclad, which is Krylon gloss black decanted and sprayed by airbrush.

Don't know if its 'kit age' related, or my age related, or lack of basic skills, but I'm on my third try with this %#&! AT-6 instrument panel.  The molded on detail just doesn't seem to have enough relief to catch enough paint off a dry brush to make it stand out.  I have some Mike Grant instrument decals and a Waldron punch set and I have been tempted to use them for the instrument faces.  My plan is to give the panel one more shot - this time using stretched sprue as a paint carrier.  We'll see how that works.

By the way, I made an interesting (to me) observation during the paint-swear-strip-paint (repeat) operation.  I use Tamiya acrylics and do not usually use a primer.  For this build I experimented with Tamiya's Fine Surface Primer (L).  I found that the acrylic paint came right off the parts that had been primed (just using a regular kitchen cleaner spray "Fantastic" to strip the paint) but the paint stuck strongly to the parts that had not been primed.  I would have expected exactly the opposite - isn't that what a primer is for?

Barry 

Okay.....

I realize we don't have numbers or comraderie (yet) of say....FAA GB....but let's not let the thread go to Page 2!

Has anyone building come across any 'age related' kit troubles or contemplating some AM stuff to beef up the kit? 

Rob.....I think I would like to withdraw the B-26 from this build and stick with the P-47 Raz. With the time frames what they are.....I'd like to join the Medium Bomber GB also.....and I can use the B-26 for that.....without buying any new kits! Heck, I'm still stocking my paint supplies!

Hope this is okay? 

Yeah, its the ole A3D /RB-66.  Funny thing is I have it as both.  One is an A3D the other is an RB-66. The difference....engines and markings.

Ben- I know the feeling. The istructions werent very clear and I ended up installing the gear wrong.  The port side is on the starbord and visa versa.  So the first time I attempted to retract them, it broke a pin inside.  now they will lock in the closed position, but not in the open.  So it wouldnt sit right if I left it.  Have to glue.  This really is a crappy kit.  

viper_mp wrote:

Well folks, the Dauntless has bested me.  There are too many issues with the build [being it is a 2nd hand model] to build it with working anything.  not only that, but I have broke two dive flaps, and took a chunk out of a third [drilling holes].  So for now, I'm kickin it aside and switching it for a Classic re-issue Revell A3D Skywarrior

I am SO close to ripping the cockpit out and installing a firecracker instead The age of the Dauntless molds definetely shows...If I do continue, It's going to have to be mounted on a stand anyway since I forgot to install the gear struts before putting the wing halves together.  I plan to get a cheap wooden base and use brass rod somehow attached to the model.

Ahh, but of course... The old pigout had all kinds of desert rally survival features that are hard to remember now, like washable air filter, valve train all in the block i.e. flat head. Low compression, easiest car I ever had to bump start.

Absolutely indestructible channel framed, giant coil spring, refillable shock third world turkey.

It finally met its end through transmission failure, but is was a beautiful 3 speed ZF

I had an old Peugeot car that had a cranking hole in the front bumper, and a crank. Really came in handy when setting the timing.

John would know about that aperture.

I found the color scheme for the Sunderland which is a little different than that on the box, but seems to match the codes that came in the decals. Oh, they shattered in a test, so scan and print it will have to be. Or, I may paint the markings, since there's only roundrels, flashes and two digit codes.

That was actually my first idea....a cranking point, just like on a TBD Devasatator, but I don't know squat about SNJ/Texans

(and actually...."abaft" would be more accurate if the point mentioned was at mid-fuselage or aft of that) 

Don't think the hole I was asking about is for the radio antenna - the antenna (if present) on AT-6 (and SNJ as far as I know) is on the starboard (right facing forward) side just ahead of the canopy.  The kit's antenna mounting location is flashed over on piece 11 (or 47 for the SNJ with machine gun) and needs to be opened.  The hole I'm talking about wasn't flashed over.  Checking the decal diagram, the hole is just in front of decal DD which reads "Move brush lifting lug on rear of starter to off position for hand cranking."  I guess its for manual starting.

Barry 

Question for you working on the Monogram AT-6:  What are you going to do with the instrument panels?  There isn't much relief to the raised gauge details and my first attempt at painting them black and drybrushing silver resulted in a dull smear.  I stripped the paint and am going to try again, but I wondered if there were other methods to use.

Also - does anyone know the purpose of the hole on the port side of the fuselage just abaft of the cowling above the air intake?  Its molded in but no part seems to fit there.

Barry

if you haven't joined the wings to the fuselage you could try to pry open the wings enough to slip the landing gear in.

Well it looks like the Dauntless will have to be built in-flight and mounted on a stand I wasn't reading the instructions and apparently you're supposed to put the gear struts on BEFORE you put the wing halves together, but I already have the wings joined. So the gear will be retracted which I already have worked out. I plan to have some sort of base with a rod attached to the model at one end and the base at the other.  Have any of you ever done this, and do you have any good ideas?

drdull wrote:

Hi Arki30 - Considering its age, I think the AT-6 kit looks pretty good.  It will be interesting to see how well it fits together.  The plastic does seem a little brittle, however.  I usually try to cut parts of the sprue as closely as possible, but I took a small hunk out of the first clear piece when I started, so I backed off a little and and shaving the excess off with an Exacto blade.  I'm going to take my time with this one and experiment with some things.  So far I've just futured the clear parts and started filling the sink marks and removing the remnants of the ejector pins.  Which version are you going to do?   Mine is going to be pretty basic - modeled after the AT-6 my wife's uncle flew in his flight training at Perrin Field, Texas.  No guns, bare metal finish, and with the exception of the anti-glare panel, no paint on the cowling.  I know this is supposed to be a stictly OOB build, but can we do things like add masking tape seat belts and bits of wire for brake lines and such? Barry

Cool, thanks for the heads up on the brittleness.  I'll have to watch that.  I have no idea what markings I'll be using.  I'm assuming at this point I'll use the kit markings, but that's also assuming they won't disintegrate on me.

Do you know that a majority of the SNJ's and AT-6's were used to make the Tora Tora Tora aircraft. And that of those Tora Tora Tora aircraft 10 were used in the movie Midway as Vaught Vindacators.