Classic Kit GB [Official Thread]

Thanks drdull

Sean, I never heard of a Revell p-40E is it 1/48

Raptordriver - Sean: Nice jobs on the FWs.  Neat to see them with different camo schemes.  Sean, where do you find 'frisket paper?'  I need to stencil some markings on my AT-6 to replace shattered decals.   

Alright, after building the Fw190 I will not accept Defeat. That Revell P-40E will not go back into the kit pile. I will either find a set of decals or stencil my own ! Upon further investigating the kit, I thought it may be best to bring in the Bench Grinder to clean up the flash. I believe this could of been a 2 fer kit with all the extra plastic. I have been dry fitting the fuse together and also a lot of cleanup . Beings that this kit has removable engine access panels I think the engine deserves a little wire detail.

I'm going to switch the GosHawks to the Nichimo TBF Avenger(ex monogram mold) and the re-issued F4U-4 that came out the year before last that has the markings for VMF-214.

I didn't even know the Black Sheep also operated during the Korean War.

Hello All, I opened up the old Monogram Fw190. The first thing I did was cut off one of the decals I did not want to use and test it. Almost seconds after being in the water it went into more pieces then I could count. So much for those Decals. I went ahead and started the kit, lots of flash, but basic and simple. Went so quick I forgot to take pictures of progress. Here is one of it almost completed, still some detail painting to complete (rear tire) and a little grime and exhaust streaks yet to come. The decals were aftermarket except for the "arrow point" which I painted on using frisket paper. Thanks Andrew for the help on getting images up !

Raptor,  I built one of those Monogram Bf-109 's a while back also.  I kept thinking to myself - There is no way that this is 1/48th scale . As I also could not believe how small it is.

Both of your Birds look great, The camo job's turned out really nice.

Sure is a differnce building one of these older kits compared to a newer Tamiya or Hasegawa. I just broke out an old Monogram Focke- Wulf and sworn I needed to bring in the Bench Grinder to clean up the Flash.

I built the Monogram F4F a long time ago.  I think I used Model Master "Navy Blue Gray M-485" - doesn't have an FS number listed for it, but looked a little better to me than the Intermediate Blue.  I did use the Intermediate Blue on a three-color scheme with an F4U and it looked fine too.

Barry

Hey guys, trying to narrow down my build between the Monogram F4F or ME-109 - have been perusing the markings on the Wildcat, trying to figure out the "blue". Went to the Stockholm color charts, they confirm the FS35189 that the Mono sheet calls for as the topside color for Navy aircraft (pre-1942) but it seems that nobody actually makes that color?

What have you guys done in the past? Anybody done this one before? I'm guessing I could probably get away with "intermediate blue" (i.e., the middle color from later war a/c - FS35164) but it doesn't seem dark enough.

Shoot me any bright ideas you might have!

Ok guys as said here are my two Monogram kits Joys to build except the decals they were terrible. THe Bf-109 is my first three color RLM paint job.

Sorry for the bad pics I tried a different camera this one wasnt as good.

viper_mp wrote:

Hart- For the Navy tri-color scheme, I start with the white, then mask it and do the intermediate blue, then mask that and do the see blue.  then go back and touch up.  I did this one recently on a P-59 Airacomet and it came out real nice.  i used tamiya flat white, and then MM enamels for the other two.  On mine, I mask the white to blue line, but I freehanded the other demarcation.  I do the same with SEA camo, mask from the light to dark, then freehand from medium to dark.

Okay, so I want a crisper line going from the whit to the blue, and a fade between the two blues?

Dave ......It's friday, I'm partaking in a beverage...(or 2....or 3)

Hey guys, wanted to let you know I havent abandoned y'all.  I've been on pre-deployment training. [no, I wont be deployed, but my unit will]. But I get to run maneuvers with them for the next couple of weeks.  No modeling, but I get to shoot my M134D mini-gun.  So its all good with me.

Hart- For the Navy tri-color scheme, I start with the white, then mask it and do the intermediate blue, then mask that and do the see blue.  then go back and touch up.  I did this one recently on a P-59 Airacomet and it came out real nice.  i used tamiya flat white, and then MM enamels for the other two.  On mine, I mask the white to blue line, but I freehanded the other demarcation.  I do the same with SEA camo, mask from the light to dark, then freehand from medium to dark.

Will be putzing tonight on both birds....update w/i 18-48 hours.

Dave

Bondo, thanks for the data....with a tri-color F4U, (white, med & dark blue), is it wiser to work bottom to top, or vise versa?

John, sorry my AB is an Iwata Dual action Grav. feed, should have mentioned that.

Mike, Yeah, I realize that now, should have used an old stand by, the Testors Orange & White bottle. Guess I just carried away/zoned in on the build.

Freehanding demarkation lines is tough, because its hard to fill in behind the line with the same tip. If mimicking the little 1 inch guy with the paint gun, it takes a bunch of passes.

Tip from me who is not a good modeler, but leathery with experience. The classic olive drab over neutral gray demark, is a soft spray at full size, but a pretty sharp spray at 1/72.

I clamp the sucker (wingy mess), hold a piece of index card in the left paw, the spray dealy in the right stump, and with the paper abt 1/4" from the skin of the victim, spray along front to back. Trick learned from the old days of rattly cans out back of Mom's which btw is still not uncommom (new Mom).

BTW gravity cups are good, but I always wear the "you aren't going out in those!" clogs.

The lower the pressure, the finer the tip, and the thinner the paint you can make go through the spray gun the better.  With a gravity feed gun it's not too hard to do freehand, but with a suction feed it is harder because it takes more air pressure to lift the paint up to the nozzle.  Best to loosely mask it with paper if you can.

Okay, update, sorry, no pics right now...

The P-40E, I screwed up the landing gear, & have to finish it "in flight". (I'll be darned if I'm not finishing it.) But it is a learning tool. (note to self, Never use super thin CA glue to attach a retaining cap on working landing gear...it seeps & locks up...)

Pappy's Corsair---all major assemblies together...Fuselage, Wing, Engine, & cowling, all together, wing-foldup & down. (will have to display w/wings up though, one side has a small gap when wing in down position, will provide pic at a later date.) Forwarning, I am going to be painting free hand w/AB, the three colors, just so you are forewarned. I'm glad to be in a GB, (MY FIRST), w/o AM parts, been waiting for it actually, but I need to work on some painting skills though.

 Regards, Dave.

P.S. When doing the "separation lines between the colors, should I be using a lower pressure?

Thanks in advance.

drdull wrote:

Finally got the instrument panel to an acceptable (if not great) place by using stretched sprue.  Not knowing what I was doing, I first tried using the very tip of the sprue as a sort of single strand paint brush - didn't work.  Then I tried dragging the side of the sprue across what little raised detail there is on the panels.  That worked fine as long as I was careful not to get the sprue too close to the back part of the panel.  I'll try and post some pictures soon. As for the primer - yeah, it is strange.  As I said, it was an experiment and I think I'll stick with straight paint until I have a problem.  I sort of forgot the "If it ain't broken, don't fix it." rule.  Looking forward to seeing what you guys do with the SBDs.  I remember having that kit as a kid (a long, long time ago).

Nor sure you want to look forward to seeing mine Every time I  paint or add a part, I find another problem, but I'm fairly determined to finish it working parts or not.