Fw190 GB

Hi Gig,

May I suggest wet sanding to remove the excess marker outside the lines? That leaves the problem of what's in the lines, but at worst it'll repell paint and leave you with the accented lines from the start.

Cheers,

Mike/TB379

don't worry, guys.  Permanent marker is easily removed with a dab of acetone, i.e nail polish remover - it's not all that big a deal to take off.  I use it when making my own canopy masks and if I can use it on clear parts with no problem, the styrene will be a-ok.

But as for no paint will stick, I'm assuming noone's ever used ModelMaster acrylics, because I just did and it seems to be working just fine.  I did a relatively thin layer this evening and I didn't notice any adhesion problems.  When it's had a chance to sit over night and my camera battery is charged, I'll take a pic in the morning.  Perhaps we can lay one more "fear" to rest .  If, in the morning, I notice something has gone bad, I'll be more than happy to admit being wrong and go back to the old fashioned way.

-Fred

Well, here are the results - and to be honest, I don't think it could have worked out any better

2 thin coats of german light blue (RLM 72, IIRC)

a few more thin coats later

And finally, painted up, all purty like

But go easy on me, this is my first free hand camo and first mottling attempt.

-Fred

That looks great Gigatron. I guess you can not believe everything you read. I have read several threads where someone had used a marker on a model then had a problem trying to get paint to stick to it. I had never tried it myself. It looks like you are sort of a Mythbuster here! I can wait to see her finished.

                                                                                 Soulcrusher

No, Fred just got lucky.  There are plenty of first-hand horror stories regarding the bleeding of permanent marker through paint jobs.  The number of times it's worked are certainly in the minority.

Cheers to your luck Fred! But I wouldn't recommend trying it again or at all for anyone who might be thinking about it.  It's just not worth the risk after all the work completed prior to preshading.

Looks good, Fred.

I'm one of the ones who tried the permanent marker method and it didn't work worth a darn, bled through like crazy, but only after a clear coat was applied. 

Thanks, guys

Mike, the marker only started to bleed through after you put the clear coat on it?  That's odd; what did you use as a clear coat?

Hey guys, here's a quick question for those of you who might know - what was the final sheen of the paint on an A6 variant?  Was it glossy, satin or flat?

Thanks,

Fred

Most German WWII paints had a semigloss finish when they were brand new but it did not last long and soon would fade and lose it gloss. I have a couple of pics that you can see the paint has a pretty good gloss to it. Another picture shows a Me 109 with the crew waxing the wings during a quiet time early on in the war. Its up to yopu as to how you wish to depict it. You can build it as factory freash with no weathering and a shiny paint job or a experten's plane with alot of miles on it.

                                                                                          Soulcrusher

Gigatron wrote:

Thanks, guys Mike, the marker only started to bleed through after you put the clear coat on it?  That's odd; what did you use as a clear coat?   Hey guys, here's a quick question for those of you who might know - what was the final sheen of the paint on an A6 variant?  Was it glossy, satin or flat? Thanks, Fred

Fred, I was using Krylon Acrylic clear out of a rattle can.  Even though it's acrylic, I think it's a little "hot".  I switched to Future after the Krylon ruined a couple of projects. 

Well, she's done.

As always, comments and constructive criticisms are welcome

Enjoy,

Fred

Hi Gig,

She's a beauty -- ambitious suite of details, good finish, and she 'feels' right. Good work!

I'm somewhat naively hoping to contribute something myself -- we'll see.

Cheers,

Mike/TB379

Well done Fred! That kit is alot of work and you knocked it out pretty quick.

                                                                                           Soulcrusher

Well I was in an airbrush mood tonight so I decided to do some serious airbrushing. I am very pleased with the results. I'm gonna let her dry tonight and give her a nice coat of Future . Then add a nice set of Aeromasters decals finish it off with.

                                                                                   Soulcrusher

That's lookin' really good, soul

-Fred

Gigatron for your first attempt at a molt and the difficulty of that kit you did a great job.

soulcrusher nice work on your's as well. you have the soft molt down. I also like your camo color breaks on the fuselage.

I told you guys I'd give you an update and here it is. This project just keeps getting bigger. I did test fit the hasegawa cockpit tub to the resin fuselage and with some work it can be made to fit. problem is the insterment panel does not. I now have to build and detail a second cockpit. I have decided to use a aires masters cockpit fo the hasegawa fw190D-9. This also means more work. I now have to cut the insterment panel hood (top cover) off the resin fuselage and use the one provided in the aires detail set. this will solve the insterment panel problems, but also means I now have a ton of sanding and filling to make this one work as well. Far more then If I could have used the hasegawa tub. I also got quick boost exhaust for it as the kit examples could not be modified to look the part of the jumo F. I di complete the engine plug and will install it whe the cockit is done.

This D-11 is going to end up being about 75% resin. It also turned out to be far more work then I had thought. I think once I get the fuselage together the other parts will get easier. I can see right now that the resin gun hood dose not fit well to the fuselage. I also have to now mate it to another AM cockpit hood. The word pf the day is filler.

engine plug.

another cockpit.

Thanks jacob and Gigatron for the compliment.

Stan looks like you have your hands full on that 190! That model is going to way a ton with all of that resin! She should be a real looker when she is done. Thanks for the compliment on the mottling. I did it a little different this time. i sprayed on the mottling then I weny back over it with the lightblue RLM 76  to soften the effect and give it a cleaner look in my eyes. I am very happy with the results.

                                                                                     Soulcrusher

SC- You nailed that mottling, great work!

Stan- Great work (as always)

I haven't been doing much, in a bit of a slump at the moment.

Thanks Mike for the positive input! Do'nt worry your not slowing down your just pacing yourself. There is still plenty of time left.

                                                                             Soulcrusher

Well I finally have all of my decals down over a coat of Future. Just have to wait now for the decals to set good and yet another set of Future before applying some light washes as this aircraft as photographed was almost brand new. So new that there was not even time to apply the blue tail band before it took place in operation bottenplate.

John I have build the Ta 152 and it is a nice kit that goes together with very few fit problems unlike many of the other Dragon offerings.  The detail is almost overdone! There are many delicate parts and the model itself is well detailed. I liked it so much I put two more in the stash. I have the original Trimaster kit which includes tons of small detail parts. This version of the kit is pricey and hard to find. then i also bought the Italeri rebox of the kit. No photo etch white metal  or engine but still a nice kit and very affordable. This is the one I build with some aftermarket decals.

                                                                                Soulcrusher

Fred great work.