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DML Grille H Smart Kit WIP *COMPLETE Pics p.9* 05-03-09

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  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Saturday, April 11, 2009 11:52 AM
 wbill76 wrote:

The devil's always in the details and this part of the build is no exception.

Bill: The devil's always in the detailsEvil [}:)]...YEP!!!  But definately well worth it in this case, exceptional workThumbs Up [tup]Thumbs Up [tup]!  I'll third the motion on it being a bit clean, you could eat off that interiorWink [;)].  Seriously though, I know we differ in this departmnt, but she's even a bit clean for youBig Smile [:D].  Fantastic work Bill (William)...Cowboy [C):-)] 

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Saturday, April 11, 2009 7:48 AM
Outstanding work Bill.  The inteiror looks great. I particularly like the little straps in the empty ammo rack.

Marc  

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Saturday, April 11, 2009 7:14 AM

Bill - I love the wiring. I must admit, the rounds look a but "funky" in that color green. Good job with the copper color on the rotating band.

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, April 11, 2009 1:09 AM

Thanks Karl, I just ran out of time today what with it being a Friday and all...couldn't believe the clock when I checked the time invested so far. Definitely far from complete. Big Smile [:D]

Tony, now that would be a real shame! Can't have you getting the shakes, that would slow down your own production! Wink [;)]

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Friday, April 10, 2009 7:54 PM

Good to have you back on track. I was on the verge of going into withdrawal.Big Smile [:D]

Tony the Mutt

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    January 2007
Posted by the doog on Friday, April 10, 2009 7:52 PM

WOW, that's a beautiful interior, Bill. I agree about dirtying her up a bit; it could use just a wee bit o'weathering!

Looks great so far! 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, April 10, 2009 7:48 PM
Thanks for the comments terry! Looks like you're building up quite a collection there. Can't ever have too many of the 38t persuasion on hand! Wink [;)]
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Friday, April 10, 2009 6:10 PM

Really coming to life now Bill. Great to see a new update , I went out and bought one myself today.

I'm starting to build up a real collection of 38t chassis's myself now. Your own work on these little gems is really inspiring me at the moment.

Thanks for the inspiration,

Terry.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, April 10, 2009 5:53 PM

Push came to shove today and it was necessary to break out the airbrush and work on the interior. To prep for that, I masked off the already painted areas of the lower hull interior and also prepped the superstructure front and the rear panels by attaching them to strips of masking tape for easier handling.

I primed everything first with a coat of Italian Dark Brown. This insured I didn't leave any bare plastic behind and once it had dried, I sprayed the base coat of 50/50 Dunkelgelb/Light Gray to all the areas of the interior. In order to make it possible to fit the tools and not worry about masking them, I went ahead and painted the full lengths of the fenders as well as the engine deck and rear hull panel. These areas are much more accessible now vs. when the superstructure is fitted, so I took full advantage of the situation. The photo below shows the dunkelgelb as being a little darker than it actually is, I just didn't play around with the lighting too much when taking this shot and didn't notice it until later.

With the base coat on, it was now down to the detail work. I started in on the left hand side first since it had the most to do. The radios and gear were painted using a 50-50 mix of Panzer Gray and Russian Armor Green to create a sort of field-gray color and then installed into their racks. The fit is tight so only a small amount of glue was needed. The next step was to complete all of the wiring using the lengths of solder I'd added earlier plus several other lengths that needed to be cut to size and installed. I used the wiring diagram for the Marder II radio sets in Achtung Panzer #7 as a guide since it's essentially the same radio setup here in the Grille H with just a couple of minor differences. I also detailed the MP40 ammunition pouches and the belts in the empty ammunition racks on this side along with the gas mask container.

The side's not finished yet, I still need to add in the MP40 along with the gunner's seat cushion and do some weathering before it's ready for installation.

The right hand side was next and I quickly discovered the limitations of trying to paint the 4 15cm rounds while installed. I think it would've been a lot easier had I painted them off the vehicle and installed but rather than pull them out, I went ahead and painted them in location. I used the same 50-50 Panzer Gray/Russian Armor Green mix for the shell bodies and dry brushed some Steel, counter-dry brushed Russian Armor Green, and then ended with a dusting of black artist pastels. As with the opposite side, I still need to add the MP40, seat cushion, and weathering to complete this side. 

The devil's always in the details and this part of the build is no exception.

Total Session Time: 5.5 hours

Total Time to Date: 38.25 hours

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, April 4, 2009 1:11 PM

John, thanks for the comments!

 Jester75 wrote:
Second, Im not sure which i am more jealous of, your builds or the amount of benchtime you have! Looking forward to see this one all dressed up and ready for the ball!

Eric, thanks for the belated wishes and no need to feel jealous...I will be spending over 20 hours in coach travelling this weekend flying across the Pacific so I had to balance that out to keep the universe in order after all. Wink [;)] Propeller [8-] The only bad thing about trans-Pacific travel is the horrendous jetlag...it's much worse coming back than it is going out. Going out, I leave on a Saturday and arrive on a Tuesday but coming back I actually arrive home before I left! Shock [:O]

Mike, thanks for setting me straight on the terminology. I've always wondered why the sled was designed the way it is...and having the recoil cylinder and recuperator inside the sled makes sense. The front end of the sled has a cap that is sometimes shown open in some photos and you can clearly see what you describe in terms of them being offset from the center. When I saw your howitzer for the first time on Corregidor, I immediately thought it was very similar to the sIG 33 gun...which itself is a holdover from a WWI design, so it wouldn't surprise me that the characteristics wouldn't have been somewhat transposed during the inter-war years into US designs. Flight leaves for LAX at 3:30 MT this afternoon...then I get to wait 6 hours in LAX until flight leaves at close to midnight for non-stop to Fiji. At least I'll be able to sleep most of the way! Big Smile [:D]

  • Member since
    August 2006
  • From: Cygnus X-1
Posted by ogrejohn on Saturday, April 4, 2009 7:30 AM
That's some nice work Bill!
  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Saturday, April 4, 2009 6:04 AM

Bill - I cannot tell without looking up the informaition on this particular weapon but....what you are calling recoil cylinders look to be equalibrators. The sled type setup would have the recuperator under the barrel in the sled. A hydraulic recoil is also usaully in line with the barrel and on this design may also be in the sled. Under the barrel on the front should be a bolt with a nut on it (known to artillerymen as the "jesus bolt"). This is the attachment of the recuperator to the forward barrel ring. If it is not quite in the center both recoil cylinder and recuperator may be in the sled.

Normally on either side are equalibrators which help dampen the weight effect of the barrel and allow the handwheel to operate freely at any elevation.....You know me...I am a bit anal about cannons.

Your tube overall looks great (non redlegs....stop your dirty minds). I like the fine detail on the bolts for the forward locking ring, and the breech handle. This design for the tube layout is very similar to the US M2/A1/A2/101 105mm howitzer!!

Nice work as always...enjoy your weekend...wherever you are!

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    December 2006
  • From: N. Georgia
Posted by Jester75 on Friday, April 3, 2009 11:01 PM

Wow Bill, moving this one right along!! First of, happy albeit late birthday!!Happy B-Day [bday]

Second, Im not sure which i am more jealous of, your builds or the amount of benchtime you have! Looking forward to see this one all dressed up and ready for the ball!

Eric

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Friday, April 3, 2009 5:04 PM

Since I will be out of town this weekend, I decided to get in as much time as I could squeeze in here and there to at least get the final pre-paint steps done. The biggest item of business was the sIG 33 gun, so work began there in Step 21. The step calls for assembly of the breech block first and has two halves for the breech and 4 parts for the sliding block. The instructions are a little vague when it comes to part B14 and indicates that you should glue this directly to the sliding block part B5...but I found it was better to glue it into the assembled block halves and leave the sliding block able to move freely. The assembly uses an insert for the top of the block to avoid a large seam but some sanding was still necessary around its edges to get a seamless look. The same was true of the interior of the two halves which I carefully sanded with a round needle file to avoid damaging the detail there.

The second portion of the step adds the front part of the recoil sled along with the aluminum barrel. I added the recoil sled portion first so that it would have a solid/level connection with the breech block and let that dry. The small join with the block was lightly sanded and then the barrel added using CA gel at the base as well as the front where the barrel hoop attaches to the sled.

Next came the gun mount and tray in Step 22 and 23. This is a complex step with a lot of sub-diagrams, so you need to decide your angle of attack first. I started with the tray, which assembles out of 3 parts to avoid the longitudinal seam common in other kits. The contact surfaces for this approach are small though, so I glued the bottom piece first to one side using regular glue and then repeated for the other side once the glue had set up a little. I used the recoil sled from the previous step to test-fit and make sure the width was correct. Then I added the insert that completes the top portion of the tray using liquid glue to get it to align properly since the thin rear portions in particular needed to be aligned very carefully. The two small grab bars on the breech block were also added...a feature that wasn't always present on sIG 33 guns but which matches the style of this particular one that DML included.

Next up were the two halves of the mount and the recoil cylinders. The right side of the mount is pretty simple while the left one is more complex since it also includes the elevation gears and gun sight. The sub-assembly diagrams for the elevation gears asks for a nearly impossible construction sequence where you add the different components to the wheel box and then install to the side of the mount. I ignored this except for the parts number call-outs and instead installed the two different gear elements, parts C13 and C7, into their proper positions on the mount side first. Then I added the gear box C10 and it's connection conduit part C6 to insure the proper alignment and fit of all the parts. Last but not least the hand wheels were then added.

Everything was then brought together to complete the mount assembly. The instructions do not tell you this, but if you don't glue the tops of parts F46 and F47 to the trunnion points on the recoil tray, the gun can remain positionable for later installation. If you do glue them into position, be sure you've got the right elevation set or you'll be stuck otherwise. I also assembled the gun sight, opting for the short neck version since the Grille H has a cut-out in the front superstructure whereas the long neck is more common on the Grille M and Bison I that didn't have that type of cutout available. The elevation arms on the gradient gear had two small holes molded into them, these are not ejector marks but should be there however DML didn't mold them all the way open for some reason...so this was cured using a pin vise and drill bit.

I've left the recoil sled and gun dry fit for now to facilitate detail painting later on...it's a very tight fight as is, so no glue is actually required unless you choose to use it for a permanent join.

Returning back to Step 19, I added the details to the interior and exterior of the front superstructure plate. The driver's visor had a very tiny slit molded into it, so I opened this up a bit more using the tip of a needle file and then cleaned it up with a #11 blade. No armored glass block is provided for, I'm not sure if one was supposed to be fitted or not on this particular vehicle but it seems strange for it to be absent.

Details were also added to the front of the superstructure plate and a word of warning is appropriate here. The diagrams direct the installation of the sliding heavy additional front plate, part F60, and it's spring-loaded hinged plate F69 in the position that's appropriate for the gun in the travel level elevation position. If you decide to pose the gun in an elevated or firing position, you will need to adjust the position of both parts, not just the spring-loaded hinged part. I'm going to have mine in the level position and may or may not engage the lock, so that's not a problem for me but it is a trap for the unwary if you're doing a dio or similar where you decide on something different elevation-wise.

I also cleaned up the rear compartment doors and installed the fire extinguisher and small box to the left door. The rear fixed panel received the canvas cover pole while the right door was cleaned up in preparation for paint and didn't have any parts required.

That's all the construction that will be completed before the superstructure interior is painted.

Total Session Time: 4.5 hours

Total Time to Date: 32.75 hours

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, April 1, 2009 5:49 PM
 terry35 wrote:

Bill I don't know if its still in print but Speilberger/Doyle done what can only be called a thome on the 35 and 38 series and Dolye done a drawing on every vehicle and concept proposed.

You may end up spending eternity building 38's.

I've got the hard-bound edition and you're right, it's definitely a tome! The only disappointing thing is that about 1/4 of the book is devoted to non-35/38t vehicles developed by the Czechs, but it's still got a ton of information on the advertised topic. Definitely a must-have for anyone interested in this family of vehicles. Wink [;)]

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Wednesday, April 1, 2009 3:40 PM

Bill I don't know if its still in print but Speilberger/Doyle done what can only be called a thome on the 35 and 38 series and Dolye done a drawing on every vehicle and concept proposed.

You may end up spending eternity building 38's.

Regards,

Terry.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, April 1, 2009 1:15 PM
Thanks terry for the comments and b-day wishes. Wink [;)] Despite the small problems I've encountered, there's nothing in my experience that would say this is a bad kit...just the usual DML conditions you can encounter in any of their products to contend with. Hope you don't wait too long to tackle this one, can never have too many 38t family builds IMHO! Big Smile [:D]
  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Wednesday, April 1, 2009 10:44 AM

Hi, Bill sorry I wasn't online to wish you a happy birthday on the Day but "happy Birthday"Happy B-Day [bday]all the same, hope you enjoyed your self and had a nice pint.

Now on to the serious stuff, your killing me here, I'm meeting Johnner and going out to buy one of these next week. I had one of these as the early kit and seriously need to get working on one of these little brutes, I'm jealous looking of your work here, keep it up.

All the best,

Terry.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 7:39 PM

Boyd thanks for the comments! Thumbs Up [tup]

Mike,

I've yet to encounter the perfect kit...and some are more imperfect than others! Even some of DML's latest/best kits like their Pz IV Smart Kits have little areas here and there (mystery parts on the sprues anyone?) that will trip you up if you're not paying attention. The DML instructions definitely will keep you on your toes for sure, I've built a lot of their kits and have yet to build one that didn't have at least one error in them. Your OH-6 experience isn't all that different from the 251 driver problem...or any number of other instances where something looks great on paper but isn't designed to actually go together in reality. All it takes is to be slightly off in the tolerances and you're screwed due to the scale effect magnification. Shock [:O]

As for the weekday bench time, that was to make up for Friday's "distractions" but man did it make me tired for today...and served as a reminder as to why I don't build during the week. Big Smile [:D]

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 6:27 PM

Hummmm...there was a person on this site (the modeler that cannot be named!) who was sooo overbearing about how good Dragon/DML is......goes to show you...if you do your research...they all screw up a little.

Nice catch on their screw up. After my nightmare with their OH-6 kit (the figures the supply are too big for the cockpit), it is not surprising to find more problems in other kits.

Good research builds good models. Even if your not a rivit counter, generally it needs to be correct.

Weekday bench time....Shock [:O]....well....it was your birthday....Wink [;)]

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: 41 Degrees 52.4 minutes North; 72 Degrees 7.3 minutes West
Posted by bbrowniii on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 6:11 PM

Hey Bill

Happy Birthday - sorry to be a little late with that.

As always, you got a great build going on here.  Can't wait to say more.

 

 

'All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing' - Edmund Burke (1770 ??)

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 4:46 PM

 panzerguy wrote:
 But at the same time I'm a little disappointed with the inaccuracies that you have managed to skillfully overcome. I really think with how much were being ask to pay for the "high end" kits that there shouldn't be so many issues with shoddy instructions and inaccurate parts. 

Thanks for the belated wishes Steve! Have to agree with you about instructions in particular...if DML would spend just a fraction of the time on improving their instructions as they do in hyping their CAD drawings, it would be a dramatic improvement! Still, I've kind of resigned myself to knowing that anytime DML produces a "hybrid" vehicle like this that takes parts from previous kits there's going to be labelling errors and wierd instruction gymnastics that result as well as other errors that will have to be dealt with. One of the more comical, and harmless, errors in the instructions is the picture of the pickaxe...it shows the molded on mount pins in the line drawing as being turned up to the sky when the actual part doesn't have any molded on! Things like I've encountered with the ammo box and positioning are not so harmless though...the box really is too big and they compound the error as a result instead of just correcting the size like they should have. Wink [;)]

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: N.H.
Posted by panzerguy on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 4:13 PM

    First Bill let me wish you a belated Happy Birthday.

  The build is coming along great! I'm very impressed with the level of detail in this kit.

   But at the same time I'm a little disappointed with the inaccuracies that you have managed to skillfully overcome. I really think with how much were being ask to pay for the "high end" kits that there shouldn't be so many issues with shoddy instructions and inaccurate parts.

      

"Happiness is a belt fed weapon"

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 1:40 PM

 SMJmodeler wrote:
wbill76: Just jumped in on this thread...Sorry if you already hit these topics.  OOB?!...should be juicy!  This is "similar" to the last build...do you have an intentional theme going?  What's your camo' plan/strategy? 

Steve, similar to the last one in the sense that it's in the 38t family...something I very rarely ever do in terms of back-to-back subjects to avoid burnout even though I love the 38t family, so this is a rare exception! I was asked to review this kit for Armorama and I have a personal policy that I will build whatever I review in order to provide a full account/evaluation of the kit and not just rely on the in-box look. That means the build immediately (or as close as possible) follows the In-Box Review to evaluate fit and assembly. So, the timing worked out and here it is on my bench. Wink [;)] As far as camo/scheme, I'm really liking the cross-hatched olivegreen over dunkelgelb pattern that's featured on the box-art for a Kursk vehicle but have to think through the execution on that one first. Thanks for dropping in! Wink [;)]

  • Member since
    April 2007
  • From: Schroon Lake, NY
Posted by SMJmodeler on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 10:19 AM
wbill76: Just jumped in on this thread...Sorry if you already hit these topics.  OOB?!...should be juicy!  This is "similar" to the last build...do you have an intentional theme going?  What's your camo' plan/strategy? 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 9:16 AM

Bill, thanks for the b-day wishes and comments! Going to the south Pacific is always interesting...nothing like a 12 hour ride in coach to make you appreciate domestic flying! Laugh [(-D] This one's getting close to the paint stage, just need to build up the gun and the front superstructure plate and we'll be ready to paint the interior at least.

Marc, my wife and I worked out a great system a long time ago...I don't try to buy her clothes and she doesn't try to buy me model stuff. Wink [;)] What we do is provide the funds and then share the shopping experience together so that it's not an isolated event. Works great for us and avoids the feigned "oh you shouldn't have" type of reactions to gifts.

I agree that Doog certainly has a way with words...but the alternative to celebrating another birthday is pretty grim, so I'll take what I can get! Laugh [(-D]

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 7:20 AM

Also bealted B_Day wishes to you 2.  cash is a good gift.  I like getting goodies ofr the kits I already have.

Excellent progress Bill.

Doog... way to depress a guyWink [;)]Big Smile [:D]

Marc  

  • Member since
    January 2012
Posted by I make stuff on Tuesday, March 31, 2009 1:55 AM

Sorry for the belated birthday wishes, Bill.  Happy birthday. 

This looks to be a pretty complex build, but your work, as usual, looks like it belongs in a clean room.  Very neat, very orderly and helpful WIP, as usual. 

Have a safe trip to the South Pacific.  See you on the flip side, I'm anxious to see paint on this one.

Bill  

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Monday, March 30, 2009 10:55 PM

I managed to sneak in some rare non-weekend bench time this evening and put in some effort with Step 18. I thought this would proceed smoothly but hit a snag in relation to the large 6 round box that mounts to the engine deck. I followed the instructions guidance in attaching the PE frame to the underside but when I test fit it to the engine deck immediately realized that there was a size problem.

In checking the layout in the MBI book, the "feet" of the mount are placed with the rear foot just ahead of the rear engine hatch hinge and the front foot 2 rivets behind the front engine hatch hinge. In reality, the frame doesn't position there at all...it's too large...so I flipped ahead in the instructions to see what the diagrams showed.

In Step 19, the front of the box is shown virtually flush with open edge of the lower compartment right above the bulk head to the engine compartment. 

Again in Step 20, looking from the rear, it shows one foot just ahead of the rear hinge but the front foot is on top of the front hinge.

This confirmed to me that the DML design of both the box and the support frame have it too large vs. the MBI photo. To accommodate this, DML moved the box forward in the installation to be flush with the bulk head...but it's not the right position. To address this, it's necessary to position the rear foot behind the rear hinge and not in front...and then the front foot can be positioned in the proper 2 rivets behind the front hinge position...after you remove the rivets of course. Rivets needed to be removed for both the front and rear feet to mount cleanly to the hatch and in the proper position. Once those were out of the way, I installed the box into position. The PE details for the side latches were then added along with the PE handles. The perforated side tray was also added along with the little triangular "wing" PE extensions for the hull sides.

It's also worth noting that DML got another small detail wrong...the small box that mounts on top of the ready round box is mounted on some small shims to make it sit level instead of slightly angled...I noticed this after I'd already glued it down and didn't want to pry it up and go through the sanding and cleanup from already being glued down to elevate it a fraction of a mm to replicate the look, but it's something for others to be aware of should they choose to add this little detail. I left the commander's seat off for now to better facilitate painting and detailing, it will get added later on. Same thing with the cleaning rods which are supposed to peak out from under the large ammo box and of course the compartment sides have been left separate to facilitate their painting as well.

Total Session Time: 1.75 hours

Total Time to Date: 28.25 hours

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, March 29, 2009 10:45 PM

I tried to make the most out of today's efforts since I know I won't be able to do any work on this next weekend due to a business trip to Fiji that requires me to leave on a Saturday in order to arrive on a Tuesday...got to love the International Date Line!

My goal was to get the interior of the fighting compartment completed and I met it but it took a lot longer than I had anticipated. I started in on Step 16 which is a monster of a step with lots of sub diagrams and parts to deal with for the left hand side. The first order of business was to remove several unnecessary molded on locator marks as directed in the instructions. The little box that highlights them in blue misses a couple though, so you have to check carefully to be sure you're getting them all. I did this for both sides and used a micro-chisel on some of the harder to reach ares while the rest were removed with a #11 blade. I should also note that you have to be very careful removing the sides from the sprues as the tops in particular are very thin and it's easy to gouge them if you aren't paying attention.

The first item of importance was dealing with all the various and sundry radio gear and power/transformer equipment. Since I intend to wire these up using 0.5mm solder, the appropriate holes were drilled out using a pin vise while the actual wiring will be added later after things are painted and installed. The instructions contain an error in the call-out for the intercom box, it's labelled RA48 when it really is just RA8. I was originally going to use part F85 (it's hidden on the F sprue but there if you look closely) but it tweezerpulted into oblivion, so I had to use the not-for-use part F1 which is designed for the Grille M. The wire has to be re-bent in the opposite direction but otherwise is the same. The radio rack is an exercise in patience to assemble...it's a two-part styrene assembly with a 3rd PE insert to hold the smaller transformer, but each of the styrene parts has 7-8 nodules or sprue attachment points that have to be cleaned up...and since they are very fragile, a new sharp blade will serve you best here. The frames were assembled and the PE insert added alone instead of attached to the transformer as the instructions would have you do it.

The rack was then installed into position and all of the various gear dry fit to insure it would all play nice together. The smaller transformer that sits on the PE insert had to be sanded down in order to fit into its allotted space. This is a direct result of these parts being reused parts (the RA and RB sprues are generic radio parts) instead of parts specifically designed for the rack they go into. Otherwise everything else fit tight but manageable. I added the solder wiring to the antenna junction box and the intercom box before installing them into the side and left plenty of wire to work with which will be cut down later after painting and the radios are installed. I opted for the PE rain guard for the radios but the instructions are a little vague on how exactly it's supposed to install. The PE part doesn't have a bend line etched into it, so I used pliers and carefully introduced the slight angle that it needs in order to sit properly and flush with the top edge of the side.

Next I installed all the various boxes and the gas mask container to the front areas as called for with their locator marks. The gas mask PE mount is more complex than it needs to be...it's 3 parts, one for the base, one for the curved holders, and a 3rd for the strap itself. You end up stacking the three parts together and then strapping the container in place and all the detail is hidden as a result...the only benefit from this approach is if you want to show the holder empty. The three shell holders and rack were assembled and I opted to show these empty since it would be extremely tough to paint the rounds once installed and in place. The kit only includes enough parts to show one side or the other empty, but not both, so the right side will have the full racks. Construction of the racks is a tricky exercise, the instructions just show the holders already attached to the racks and then the rack installed into place. I got around this by first gluing F24, the front rack bar, in position without attaching the round holders. The holders were then glued into F25, the rear rack bar, and then glued into place. I used liquid glue to position the "free" ends of the holders into the slots on F24...getting a level and properly angled rack in the process.

I deliberately left of the small seat cushion and the MP40 holder since they would get in the way of adding the radio equipment and completing the wiring, but they were cleaned up and set off to the side for later.

That finished up Step 16, so it was on to 17! This dealt with the right side and the first order of business was to assemble the 12 charge boxes. 10 required the molded on top and bottom ridges to be removed while 2 only required the bottom removed.

The boxes were then assembled into 2 stacks of 6 each and installed into position. The right stack ends up being taller than it's supposed to be judging by reference photos but by removing 2 rivets on the bracing panel I was able to get it to sit virtually flush with the top of the superstructure side. The left stack sits at the proper height, so not sure what the cause is other than the dimensions on the boxes are incorrect. They don't have to be off by much...just a fraction of a mm each to produce this kind of compound error...but it's there.

The 4 shell racks were added as well...and aside from the instruction diagram, no guidance is provided on their location. I added the first and then the fourth to set the distance and then spaced the second and third as evenly as possible to get them into position. Each shell has a prominent seam that runs top to bottom, so this had to be carefully sanded down with a sanding twig to remove it.

The PE glass block holder was bent to shape and installed in position along with the retaining strap but I decided not to add the block itself as I think it looks better empty. The gas mask container was also added with the MP40 and seat cushion also left off on this side for now.

While looking around on the floor for another part I found the missing F85...but since I'd already wired up F1 and glued it into place, I just snipped off the wire portion and swapped it out with the wire portion on F1...that way it had the right height and spacing and wouldn't require any further modification like F85 would've. I also added the rearmost braces, F34, to both sides and test fit them to the hull to be sure they were in the proper position and angle. So, the results of today's efforts...

Total Session Time: 7 hours

Total Time to Date: 26.5 hours

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