#6 Tristar Panzer 1 Ausf. A sd.Kfz.101 (Early) WIP

Bodge wrote:

lookin superb

Thanks Andy I have not gotten a chance to comment on your latest work yet but I have a lot of positive adjectives stored up!    The steel plates on top are also superb!!

wing_nut wrote:

Nice looking interior Edmund.  In case you haven't used Blacken-It on Friuls before, mkae sure you give them a really good scrubs down to reuce the chane of silver spots from form what I assume is mold release.

Thanks Marc and I have been cautioned to soak the Fruils in Vinigar as  a preperation step before soaking them in the blacken it which is suppossed to improve adhesion I would asume.

The interior looks very nice, Edmund, very lived in but not slammed with overkill.  Have you played with the tracks yet? 

Looking forward to following this one all the way.

Bill

Edmund

Really looking like a great build there! 

Other than your initial disappointment, what is your impression of the kit so far?  Are you managing to fall back in love with it?

wbill76 wrote:

Looking good Edmund! I see you've positioned one of the driver's steering levers in the locked back position...going to have this one doing donuts in the parking lot, eh?

  Yes I have driven a few tanks in my time I did that for two reasons.  The directions were absolutely useless (The IKEA Furniture direction dudes work for Tristar as well)  and for visual efect.  It looks cool.

I do have a few questions for you Bill.  The front end is not a cast piece like the 38H but will I need to make weld seams on both the top and lower end of the plate?  Also should I put weld seams on all the angles on the front piece.  When I add the upper hull does this need weld seams as well? 

Thanks in advance Bill

bbrowniii wrote:

Edmund Really looking like a great build there!  Other than your initial disappointment, what is your impression of the kit so far?  Are you managing to fall back in love with it?

Hi Boyd!

I have really enjoyed the learning around the interior assembly, painting and weathering but I keep on getting disappointed on lack of clarity in the directions and I am stuck in a number of areas as I type.  Some of the frustration is my own lack of experience in overcoming some of these shortcomings due to the fact that I was so spoiled by my DML Smart Kit experiences.  I will work them out one bite at a time just like you eat an elephant!!

I love the vehicle though!  Do you know the difference between a chicken and pig in a Ham and Egg Breakfast?  The chicken is involved and the pig is committed.  I am a pig my friend it will be fine!!

Schnobs wrote:

Hi Boyd! I have really enjoyed the learning around the interior assembly, painting and weathering but I keep on getting disappointed on lack of clarity in the directions and I am stuck in a number of areas as I type.  Some of the frustration is my own lack of experience in overcoming some of these shortcomings due to the fact that I was so spoiled by my DML Smart Kit experiences.  I will work them out one bite at a time just like you eat an elephant!! I love the vehicle though!  Do you know the difference between a chicken and pig in a Ham and Egg Breakfast?  The chicken is involved and the pig is committed.  I am a pig my friend it will be fine!!

I have the utmost confidence that you will, indeed, work out the glitches.  Your work thus far is stellar...

Chicken and pig, eh... Nice...

Schnobs wrote:

I do have a few questions for you Bill.  The front end is not a cast piece like the 38H but will I need to make weld seams on both the top and lower end of the plate?  Also should I put weld seams on all the angles on the front piece.  When I add the upper hull does this need weld seams as well?

Edmund, keep in mind that the plates on this guy aren't very thick...the armor ranges from 5mm up to 15mm maximum. The weld seams, as a result, will be very fine and done at the factory so would be very consistent. The seams that would be visible as a consequence would in turn be very small in 1/35 scale. The curved pieces that covered the final drives were individually cast and then welded to the front hull plate, so there should only be weld seams where they meet at the sides of the square plate in the middle and the top angled glacis plate (hope that makes sense). Hopefully this pic will explain it for you:

Hi, Edmund, Bill is spot on about how clean the welds are on a Pz.1. really refined engineering.

Save this pic and enlarge to see how clean it all is.

http://www.achtungpanzer.com/images/spz1a.jpg

Hope it all works out,

Good luck on your project.

Terry.

wbill76 wrote:

Schnobs wrote: I do have a few questions for you Bill.  The front end is not a cast piece like the 38H but will I need to make weld seams on both the top and lower end of the plate?  Also should I put weld seams on all the angles on the front piece.  When I add the upper hull does this need weld seams as well? Edmund, keep in mind that the plates on this guy aren't very thick...the armor ranges from 5mm up to 15mm maximum. The weld seams, as a result, will be very fine and done at the factory so would be very consistent. The seams that would be visible as a consequence would in turn be very small in 1/35 scale. The curved pieces that covered the final drives were individually cast and then welded to the front hull plate, so there should only be weld seams where they meet at the sides of the square plate in the middle and the top angled glacis plate (hope that makes sense). Hopefully this pic will explain it for you:

Hey Bill!  Let's see if I got this straight and save myself a trip to El Paso for a face to face meeting which would be a pleasure by the way.  I need to apply a very fine and very subtle weld seams on the vertical seam of the curve pieces on the front and a fine seam on the horizontal piece where the two front pieces connect.  Your picture that you attached seems to bear out this interpretation.

terry35 wrote:

Hi, Edmund, Bill is spot on about how clean the welds are on a Pz.1. really refined engineering. Save this pic and enlarge to see how clean it all is. http://www.achtungpanzer.com/images/spz1a.jpg Hope it all works out, Good luck on your project. Terry.

Thanks Terry awesome reference Picture!

mg.mikael wrote:

Hey Schnobs, you're interior is really comin' along! Especially starting to look lived in with the weathering. Over on my end I scratched all the parts I need to replace the suspension coil(on the exterior) and then started painting some interior parts. However when I tried to lay down a white coat of paint it wouldn't stick, it's way too 'watery'(their's something wrong with it straight out of the bottle).....so I gotta head over to the LHS and pick up another bottle of paint. Thus I'm delayed quite a bit now.

Hey Michael that sucks!  I would love to see how you replaced the suspension coil.  I would love to do that myself if possible.

Schnobs wrote:

mg.mikael wrote: Hey Schnobs, you're interior is really comin' along! Especially starting to look lived in with the weathering. Over on my end I scratched all the parts I need to replace the suspension coil(on the exterior) and then started painting some interior parts. However when I tried to lay down a white coat of paint it wouldn't stick, it's way too 'watery'(their's something wrong with it straight out of the bottle).....so I gotta head over to the LHS and pick up another bottle of paint. Thus I'm delayed quite a bit now. Hey Michael that sucks!  I would love to see how you replaced the suspension coil.  I would love to do that myself if possible.

I'll try to get an update up later today, featuring the coil......if possible.

wbill76 wrote:

Sounds like you've got it figured out Edmund!

After some thought and further research I decided to try out some Archer Arc weld beads

https://secure46.cedant.com/michtoy/MTSCnewSite/plastic_model_kits_folder/archer_decals/2008_adds/FER-AR88017.html

I ordered some today because the hot knife would not have had the effect I wanted.   I will makse sure and log my experrience with the product. If anyone had any pointers on best practice on use of th eArcher transfers please let me know.

mg.mikael wrote:

Schnobs wrote:  mg.mikael wrote: Hey Schnobs, you're interior is really comin' along! Especially starting to look lived in with the weathering. Over on my end I scratched all the parts I need to replace the suspension coil(on the exterior) and then started painting some interior parts. However when I tried to lay down a white coat of paint it wouldn't stick, it's way too 'watery'(their's something wrong with it straight out of the bottle).....so I gotta head over to the LHS and pick up another bottle of paint. Thus I'm delayed quite a bit now. Hey Michael that sucks!  I would love to see how you replaced the suspension coil.  I would love to do that myself if possible. I'll try to get an update up later today, featuring the coil......if possible.

Build is updated, and PM sent.

Thanks Michael!

I can't wait to see your interior after the washes.  Yoru scratch built springs look cool I will see what I can do.

Hi Edmund, I'm back from my weekend off.  Glad to see you are soldiering on, and with a realistic outlook, I am sure this will shape up into a more than respectable kit.  Your finishing skills are top notch, this thing will shine!  Good idea to save the Aber, I almost suggested that, but didn't want to send any negative thoughts.  I am glad to hear you are pushing through.

Keep us posted, the hujll looks like it straightened up from the photos.

Bill

Rather hefty clamps to keep the little guy together there Edmund Looking good though and you are proceeding in the excellent fashion we have become accustomed to

Julian

Edmund,

Sorry to hear about the issues you're having...it sounds like you might have gotten a heat-damaged kit with the amount of warpage you're experiencing. Tristar has a pretty solid reputation in the main so I hope this doesn't put you off their kits entirely!

wbill76 wrote:

Edmund, Sorry to hear about the issues you're having...it sounds like you might have gotten a heat-damaged kit with the amount of warpage you're experiencing. Tristar has a pretty solid reputation in the main so I hope this doesn't put you off their kits entirely!

Glad you are back Bill and I am getting my Irish up as well this will get finished!  I plan to hit it hard tonight if possible!  Hit it is a relative term!   

wbill76 wrote:

Edmund, Sorry to hear about the issues you're having...it sounds like you might have gotten a heat-damaged kit with the amount of warpage you're experiencing. Tristar has a pretty solid reputation in the main so I hope this doesn't put you off their kits entirely!

Agreed!  I figure it's a one off.  All the the reviews from sources I trust were excellent.  I do not judge a whole culture, race or gender from the actions of one member nor will I do that with this wonderful hobby! Due to the fact that the entire lower hull had to be assembled from warped pieces this has impacted the whole build.  I have come to appreciate DML's one piece hull as a foundational starting point thats for sure.  I read review Tamiya articles about the model just falling together and I want to glue the author to something!!! 

Bodge wrote:

Coming on nicely im sure you will cope with the issues it may have

Thanks for the faith Andy it is appreciated, and thank you so much for your figure tute.  I really think you are a great guy and a great represenatative of this Hobby!  Consider yourself virtually Knighted and arise Sir Bodge to bring justice, enlightenment and order to the FineScale Forums!!