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DML Sdkfz 164 Nashorn COMPLETE pics p.14 03-13-10

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  • Member since
    February 2010
  • From: Spring Hill, FL
Posted by jagdtiger1944 on Sunday, February 21, 2010 11:53 PM

I like the camo Bill. You do nice work, and thanks for the very in depth build logs they have been a help.

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: N.H.
Posted by panzerguy on Sunday, February 21, 2010 10:25 PM

Now thats what I'm talking about BillStick out tongue!

http://www.bpmodels.net/Model/Nashorn/Step50.jpg

   All the builds I've seen of the Nash have had the line pattern in either red brown or green so this one is definitely a change of pace. Looking forward to seeing it once you've blended it all together

"Happiness is a belt fed weapon"

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, February 21, 2010 7:41 PM

The much-anticipated time for paint had arrived so to get ready for it today I prepped the fighting compartment by masking it off with several strips of blue painter's tape. Some of the strips were cut in half and positioned in various degrees of overlap to maximize protection, especially around the gun.

The road wheels and other items for the suspension were also made ready by mounting them on wooden toothpicks. I used small amounts of blue poster tack putty to secure them in place along with my trusty styrofoam box. Since there are 36 road wheel halves, it's a crowded place!

The painting session began with the application of a primer coat of MM enamel Italian Dark Brown applied by airbrush. This allowed me to check all the putty and sanding work I'd done earlier and I made a few corrections in various spots and then touched up the primer before committing to the base coat.

The base coat was applied by airbrush using multiple thin coat passes to build it up sufficiently over the primer coat. I used a custom mix of MM enamel Light Gray and Panzer Dunkelgelb in a 50-50 mixture.

Next up was the camo pattern. I decided to apply a three tone pattern for a vehicle with the sHPzJgAbt 525 in Italy 1944 and used the kit provided finishing guide as a rough outline for the overall pattern. I applied the Rotbraun first by airbrush freehand using a 50-50 mix of MM enamel Military Brown and Leather. Then I added the Olivegrun freehand by airbrush using MM enamel Khaki. I went back over the pattern and cleaned up some over spray here and there with the original base coat color. Once I was happy with that, I heavily thinned down the base coat mix and sprayed it as a mist coat from about 12 inches distance to tie everything together. The masking was removed and it did its job well with only some very minor touch ups needed.

I also got the road wheels and other suspension items all done. They were primed just like the vehicle with Italian Dark Brown and then the rubber portions painted by airbrush using MM enamel Gunmetal. I used a draftsman's circle template to paint the hubs with the base coat mix used on the hull.

All told I spent about 5 hours working with the airbrush today and even though it was still a little windy and cold, it needed to be done so that I could move on. I didn't get the MK tracks painted, that's something I can tackle during the week since it can be done in short bursts and with a full week for the paint to cure, things are getting very close to the finish line.

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Sunday, February 21, 2010 3:34 PM

OK you talked me into it Bill.  First thing I notice was the box was some what deeper than the older kit and with the top off the first thing that hits you right between the the eyes is the goody bag that always sits right on top of the pile.

The older Premium kit is on the left and there's not much reason to point out the difference as you can see.

There are 20 sprues in the new kit compared to 13 of the old one.  Once again Dragon finds it cheaper to give a good number of spare box parts than cut a new mold. Another thing of note is the casement sides are a third to almost half as thick on the edges and the intake louver panels that are molded in on the Premium and have to be cut out for the provided PE are separate and also are hollow between the vanes not solid as on the older kit.

Being a 3 in 1 kit you've got the option of building the "Initial", Initial Modified" or the "Early" and the instruction sheet even shows you what parts are used for your preference.Yes

They provided a NEW lower hull tub for this one too with added details even.  You get Magic Tracks instead of the DS bands this time around.  I counted 18 nicely molded ammo rounds in there.

I'm not at all knowledgeable about the Nashorn and can't get into the nuts and bolts of the new kit but it sure looks the part to me.

I'll be looking for a professional review myself everyday.

Thanks Bill for letting me intrude on your blog.

Tony LeeSmile

 

 

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, February 21, 2010 11:21 AM

Thanks Terry! Since DML has labelled the kit a "3-in-1" it will be interesting to see just what those options/variants are that they are providing. My guess is one is probably the command version but the other 2 possibilities are anyone's guess? Maybe Tony can be enticed to crack his open and let us in on the secret? Big Smile When DML announced this one I could only shake my head...not the first time they've done that when I was already working on an older kit and/or had just finished one of the subject in question.

Dave, this one could really ring your bell for sure! The ironic thing is that I didn't need paint but needed mixing jars to be able to create a new batch of DY for the exterior...I thought I had some sitting around but no dice! Just as well though, the weather turned nasty yesterday afternoon with blowing dust and very windy so I wouldn't have been able to paint anyhow. Today the weather is nice though so it will get done! Glad you like the travel lock cable, threading the string was an exercise in patience for sure. Now that it's in place I can see just how glaring of an omission it is for it to not be there. DML addressed that in their newest release that Tony posted above though so it's only on the Premium kit that you have to do something about it.

 

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Eugene, Oregon
Posted by hughes2682 on Saturday, February 20, 2010 11:39 PM

Bill,

I have fallen behind on this build.Embarrassed I still can't get over the size of that gun in relation to the chassis.  One heck of a door knocker!  Your paint dilemma sounds very familiar.  Just when you think you are ready to squirt some color on it, you find something else that simply must be addressed.  I like what you did with the travel lock cable.

Cheers

Dave

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v317/Aaronw/Groupbuilds/ClassicAviationGB2010bomb.jpg

With enough thrust, pigs fly just fine.

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Saturday, February 20, 2010 6:23 PM

Bill it really looks great so far. Tonys post there really makes me think what both would be like side by side,. interesting ?       I have the older one myself so don't think I will be hitting the new kit.

Looking forward to seeing when you get the paint on.

Terry.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, February 20, 2010 6:00 PM

Thanks Tony! Everything I've seen (haven't read any reviews yet) would indicate that the brand-new kit you've got is a winner. It has mostly earlier-type features such as the mud flaps, single integrated exhaust, bolt on armor for the splinter shield, etc. but has the later style travel lock. I'm sure in your capable hands it will turn out to be a show-stopper for sure. Wink

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Saturday, February 20, 2010 5:49 PM

Hey William LOOK what the Plastic Phantom left on the door step this morning.

Yours sure looks good man wonder how this one compares? I heard the ammo and ammo lockers match in size on this one.

Waiting for tomorrowToast

Tony LeeSmile

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, February 20, 2010 4:32 PM

I had hoped to get to the painting stage today but two things tripped me up. The first was simply an underestimation of just how many parts I still needed to clean-up and add to the vehicle and the second was the realization that I didn't have all the paint supplies I needed on hand in sufficient quantities! So that means painting the exterior will be delayed until tomorrow but will still get done this weekend.

Speaking of all those parts to add, I went back through the different steps and conducted a survey to be sure I didn't miss anything. I test fit the kit-provided Magic links with the spare track holder on the hull nose and the links can slide in and out without problem so I went ahead and installed B3 from way back in Step 4. I also returned to Step 18 and added the lifting eyes, parts A4, to the rear exterior but left off the cleaning rods until after paint. All of the details in Step 21 were also installed, this covered the crew hatches, all the various lifting eyes on the hull glacis, and also the lifting eyes for the fighting compartment side panels. The mount holes for the A20 eyes was larger then the eye itself so a little but of putty was needed to fill those gaps.

After checking references, I realized that the three lower eyes called for in the instructions aren't seen on the actual vehicles...both the surviving examples in Kubinka/Aberdeen and numerous in-action photos don't show these as being there so I filled their small mount holes with putty and left them off.

I also completed the details in Step 22 which deals with the Bosch light and the jack. I assembled the jack but left it off for now to make it easier to paint that area of the fender and the hull. The instructions have an error here in that they call for the base of the Bosch light as part B40 but you actually need to use B39 or the actual Bosch light will install backwards. I drilled out the armored connection point on the glacis as well as the port on the Bosch base with a #72 finger drill and added the connecting wire conduit with 0.5mm diameter solder.

Step 24 was the last one I needed to work on and it deals with the gun travel lock. The instruction show this already assembled which makes things a bit tricky as there are no less than 8 parts that go into the assembly and some of them are very small. I used a #78 finger drill to carefully drill out the small pulley that is part M23 to allow me to add the missing tension cable that allowed the gun travel lock to be disengaged by the gunner from the relative safety of the fighting compartment vs. crawling out onto the glacis to do it. I drilled this hole while M23 was still on the sprue since it is a very tiny part. The travel lock was assembled and I was careful with the base parts to allow the lock to remain workable. This will help not only in the painting process but also provides options in the final display between the gun being secured or not.

The tension cable was added using waxed 0.008" diameter ship rigging thread which I glued in place on the glacis with small amounts of liquid glue and used regular glue to glue it into the base of the travel lock. The thread has sufficient flexibility that the lock can be moved freely without causing the thread to break free.

Now I'm off to the LHS to rectify my paint supply problem and tomorrow this one's got a date with the spray booth!

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Thursday, February 18, 2010 9:16 AM

Thanks Marc appreciate the comments as always. Beer

  • Member since
    April 2005
  • From: Piscataway, NJ!
Posted by wing_nut on Thursday, February 18, 2010 7:36 AM

All caught up on this one and ditto on the ammo and the radio.  It all looks great.

Marc  

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 10:14 PM

Thanks Steve! I debated with myself on whether or not to add the radios since the space there is so tight to begin with but once I had it test fit and installed I just knew they had to go on. Thank goodness for cannibalized spare parts from older builds...otherwise I would've had to scrounge some resin sets and that wouldn't have been cheap. Big Smile

  • Member since
    October 2007
  • From: N.H.
Posted by panzerguy on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 8:58 PM

 Its those little extras like drilling out the mag wells on the Mp40's that help turn a great build into an excellent one.

  The open ammo locker and radio set really top off that interior Bill.   WunderbarBow Down!

"Happiness is a belt fed weapon"

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 7:48 PM

Thanks Rob! Good point about the rear hatches, will give them a little bit more attention in the final treatment.

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • From: mass,USA
Posted by scratchmod on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 4:01 PM

YesYes VERY nice Bill as always. A very nice clean build and painting to go with it. I too have a very understanding wife and also got some bench time in on the weekend. The only thing I might suggest would be a bit more chipping, not much just say on the rear access hatches. Maybe a bit of worn off paint on the vertical locking mech. This would slide through the horizontal parts, wearing off the paint. Just my two cents.

Either way, I love how it looks, especially the ammo racks and ammo.

Looking forward to the next update.

 

Rob

www.scratchmod.com

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 3:56 PM

No worries Mike, I'm sure the V-Day weekend was distracting for all of us to one degree or another! Wink Thanks for the comments, glad you like the flooring. Beer

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: New Jersey
Posted by redleg12 on Wednesday, February 17, 2010 3:19 PM

Bill - I appologize....I have a house full of estrogen and even with the hobby support, flowers, dinner, etc....somehow I missed your post.

With all that said, nice work. I like the way the floor turned out.

Rounds Complete!!

"The Moral High Ground....A Great Place to Emplace Artillery."

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, February 14, 2010 9:26 PM

Thanks panzer88, appreciate the comments!

Tony, you and me both! This one's on track to be done before the month's out if things continue at this pace.

Ernest, you're right about the fighting compartment making it tougher to see the interior from a lighting/camera perspective but still plenty to see on the real deal. One of the joys and pains of working with an open top vehicle!

  • Member since
    July 2006
  • From: San Francisco Bay Area
Posted by bufflehead on Sunday, February 14, 2010 8:43 PM

Ooooh, she's looking good Bill!  Too bad you have to install the sides and hide that great interior, but at least you can see down inside from the top!

Ernest

Last Armor Build - 1/35 Dragon M-26A1, 1/35 Emhar Mk.IV Female

     

Last Aircraft Builds - Hobby Boss 1/72 F4F Wildcat & FW-190A8

     

  • Member since
    August 2008
  • From: S.W. Missouri
Posted by Pvt Mutt on Sunday, February 14, 2010 7:18 PM

OH Bill she's taken shape now.Cool Looking forward to next weekend.

Tony LeeSmile

Shoot Low Boys They're Ridin Ponys

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Queensbury,NY
Posted by panzer88 on Sunday, February 14, 2010 6:13 PM

Some nice progress Bill. I love the little pile of german helmets, very nice touch.

     

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, February 14, 2010 5:01 PM

One of the great things about having a spouse that supports the hobby is that even when it's Valentine's Day weekend I'm still able to get some time in at the bench. A box of Godiva chocolates and a promise for dinner later this evening goes a very long way indeed.

Since the last update all of the efforts have been focused on the interior details and getting things squared away before assembling the panels of the fighting compartment. The loader's side got the majority of the attention. Using the pics in N&B 14, I decided to add the missing gas mask containers and holders for this side of the fighting compartment. I used a left over Eduard fire extinguisher bracket to rig up a holder with straps by cutting it down and using only the strap portion and combined that with a spare gas mask container from a Gen2 infantry gear sprue in the spares bin. The kit also didn't provide an MG34 so I scrounged one again from the spares bin and added it along with, you guessed, scrounged spares ammo cans to go in the bracket. I had to fold down the sight in order for i to fit in the space provided but otherwise it fit perfectly into the holders.

The panel was weathered first with an overall wash of Raw Umber. Since the paint had a full week to cure, I didn't seal it with Future but instead just applied the wash directly to the paint. The key here was to insure I didn't flood the surface to avoid it lifting the paint and letting it air dry. The photos show it a little darker than it actually came out and some of the areas are of course hidden by the ammo boxes so I didn't do much more to that space. For those areas that remained visible, I used a round 0 sable brush and prepped the brush as if I were going to dry brush but instead stippled the brush and applied some fine scratches/scuffs of Burnt Umber. This was followed up by stippling and dry brushing some of the original base color back over it to provide some depth and variation while still retaining the "grungy" factor.

I applied the same weathering approach to the gunner's side but left off the rabbit ears scope for now as I want to paint and detail that later after the exterior has been painted. Same thing with the MG34 swivel mounts, those will be added at a later step. I'm leaving them off now so I can have a clean masking surface to work with to protect the interior when the exterior is painted.

The rear plate was weathered as well and received the two crew MP40 weapons. The kit instructions have the wrong part numbers for these, you should use WB9 and not WB1 as called for. WB1 is designed with a separate folding stock and is meant for use if you were showing the gun in actual use vs. stowed in the holders. The instructions also don't tell you that you need to add parts WB5 to complete the full gun so watch out for that as well. I removed the clip magazine with sprue cutters as instructed and hollowed out the receiver using a #70 finger drill and very carefully squaring the opening with the tip of a #11 blade to add a little more detail here.

That just left the floor of the compartment to work on. I added the 2nd gas mask container and holder here as well and decided to add some crew helmets for the empty space at the rear. These were provided courtesy of the same gear sprue as the gas mask containers and glued in place after a quick check with the rear plate to be sure there wouldn't be any interference. I also added the cable for the remote release on the travel lock using a short length of 0.008" diameter waxed ship-rigging thread cut to size and glued in place with regular glue. Once the glue dried, I painted the cable with non-buffing Metalizer Gunmetal.

For the floor itself, I added the weathering using the same process as the side panels but added some dirt/mud accumulation in the form of stippled Raw Sienna. I added some of this to the angled plate under the gun as well where the gunner's feet would likely rest or make contact for a little extra "lived in" feel.

This cleared the way for me to begin installing all the components into the fighting compartment and get the compartment itself assembled. Prior to installing the gun, I had given it the same weathering treatment as the rest of the compartment but with a lighter touch since the crew would've kept it well maintained for obvious reasons. The gun and splinter shield were installed and I permanently placed the loader's ammo bin as well while I still had plenty of room to work with.

The fighting compartment panels were then installed, starting at the front and adding the sides with the rear plate added last. The fit was ok for the most part but there were some areas where the angled front plates needed some putty work to fill small gaps that couldn't be addressed any other way. These gaps were filled and the joins lightly sanded with a sanding twig to round things out.

That clears the way for the rest of the exterior details to be added which means the exterior will likely get paint and camo next weekend!

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: 41 Degrees 52.4 minutes North; 72 Degrees 7.3 minutes West
Posted by bbrowniii on Sunday, February 14, 2010 4:36 PM

Bill

REALLY??!  You didn't use PE on those racks?  I recall you had some trouble with them, but thought you had used a different aftermarket set (I guess that was Karl and his Verlinden set?).

Well, regardless, I stand by my point - I covet your skills. Big Smile

'All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing' - Edmund Burke (1770 ??)

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Sunday, February 14, 2010 4:27 PM

Thanks Boyd for dropping in! Appreciate the comments but I can't take credit for the PE ammo racks as I think you're looking at the racks Karl (doog) built for his build a little while back. I ended up not using the DML provided PE since it was next to useless in many respects. Karl did an excellent job with his PE work, no question there so be sure to direct your jealousy towards him please! Stick out tongue

  • Member since
    April 2003
  • From: 41 Degrees 52.4 minutes North; 72 Degrees 7.3 minutes West
Posted by bbrowniii on Sunday, February 14, 2010 3:58 PM

Bill

I've taken to just lurking your WIP threads, holding all my comments until the build is complete, or nearly so, lest I run out of superlatives.  That being said, WOW, I am floored by your work.  We are having a smorgasbord of great builds with super interiors, what with your Nashy and Mutt's latest.  Really, really, really loving it! 

That PE work you did on the ammo racks....  WOW!  The amount of trouble I have getting the simplest pieces of PE together makes me insanely jealous of your skills!

OK, I'm going to hold my tongue now, lest I have nothing nice to say when it is all done... Zip it!Geeked

'All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing' - Edmund Burke (1770 ??)

 

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Saturday, February 13, 2010 8:06 PM

Thanks Rob! It would appear that Ed's tastes are expanding beyond just wheels these days! Wink

Terry, thanks for the comments as well, been working on some of the details and should have an update tomorrow once I get all the panels in place. Beer

  • Member since
    May 2005
  • From: Dublin Rep Of Ireland
Posted by terry35 on Saturday, February 13, 2010 6:36 PM

Bill what I'm seeing of the painting so far is just brilliant. The ammo really looks the part and the breech is a beauty.

Terry.

  • Member since
    February 2009
  • From: mass,USA
Posted by scratchmod on Saturday, February 13, 2010 6:18 PM

Stick out tongue mmmm paint, that's what I'm talking about. Looking really good there Bill. I will leave the comments about your shells and rack to Ed. Wait I thought Ed had a thing for wheels, Confused

Keep up the great work Bill, she's coming along.

 

Rob

www.scratchmod.com

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Texas
Posted by wbill76 on Tuesday, February 9, 2010 9:10 AM

Thanks Steve! It's all Edmund's fault, first he starts talking about watching other men exercising, then he starts commenting on other men's shells and how beautiful they are...now it's all devolved into who has the nicer rack! WhistlingIndifferentPropeller

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