Revell 1/96 Cutty Sark

Oh..you don't happen to have a copy of those plans do you?  :)

I completely agree concerning the TYhermoplyae......However, I will make the necessary corrections on a smaller CS version I picked up on ebay.  I haveg some images of a model(built in the early thirties) that actually used drawins made by first hand experience sailors who sailed on her..and the builder made sure that she was built as described by those sailors who sailed her.  So I plan on making all the necessary changes...even scratch building many parts to correct.  It will be a fun project for sure.

I agree about the Flying Cloud...wish it was 1.96 scale.

We'll see how it all works out.

Rob

More detail

Some more pix of the control rigging blocks at the mast cap

One of the many major inaccuracies of the Revell "Thermopylae" concerns the hull shape.  The real Thermopylae's hull lines were significantly, noticeably different from those of the Cutty Sark.  Among other features, the Thermopylae's forefoot had a much bigger, wider-radius curve to it, and her stern counter was much more delicate.  (The Cutty Sark''s powerful counter was one of her more radical features - one that put her in particularly good shape for the Australian wool trade.)  The hull in the kit is a green version of the Cutty Sark - and that's all.

There were also numerous differences in the rigging - and even more differences between the spar plan of the real Thermopylae and Revell's imitation of her.  The removal of the studding sail booms is inexplicable (the real ship had them), the rendition of the deadeyes and chain plates is nonsensical, and the real ship had, if I'm not mistaken, at least one patent-rig, "self-furling" topsail or topgallant.

The best information about this ship that I've bumped into is in two books by David MacGregor, Fast Sailing Ships and Tea Clippers.  Mr. MacGregor provides a set of reconstructed plans, and at least one photo (from the ship's latter days, when she was painted white).

Frankly I'm not at all sure that "accurizing" the Revell kit would be significantly easier, or less time-consuming, than working from scratch.  The Revell folks really pulled a scan with this one.

The old Revell Flying Cloud, on the other hand, is a beauty - even by modern standards.  I wish Revell Germany would re-release it.  (I also wish it was on a bigger scale, though.)

I spent time today and nearly finished the control rigging for the mizzen mast and the two top yards of the main.  I suspect a week and I'll have completed this model.  I also purchased the Flying Cloud and the CS on the bay and will begin to modify and *turn* the CS into the Thermopylae.  I will build the aft cabin myself and remove the middle deck house..  It will get a complete remake.

Lots of projects on the bench...but first.....finish the dry docked CS.

Pics a bit later.

Rob

One last for mast yard to finish up...and I'll be finished with the yard rigging and onto the final control running rigging and then I'll be finished.

I then apply an dark alcohol wash...to make it look weathered...like the main mast......

This technique works fast and well...

Belay the line...glue...then apply the premade coils.

Good luck

Another image.....I will place many more along this rail.

Mounted.......I simply secure the rigging and glue...making it simple....then I come back and apply the coiled rope...it makes it so much easier.

Apply it to the rail/pin.  Make sure you can get it over the pin.   I double over the coil for my mast fife rails...so they look full and clean

Remove the coil...now is the time I like to add more glue on the backside and against the loop that will go over the pin...this secures it well.

Next cut off the excess string.....

Glue the knot.....I use Elmers wood glue.....

Run an additional piece under the loops and tie.  You can alter the length if you want longer hanging coils

Next take your line and run it around the pegs 3 times(more if you wish)...tape down the ends

One other nice trick to show...for making those roiled ropes for your fife/pin rails.  I began by making a simple gig from common items.  You need a wooden clothes pin...drill and glue 2 wood pins the desired distance.  Here is what the final gig looks like. Make sure the pins slightly lean towards each other for easy removal of rope.

I think you're doing a great job as well.  BTW, we're the same age.  I tried leaving off the boats and even the roofs and found that installation access was possible as long as the roofs perfectly fit the walls.  It sure would make the running rigging easier.  Rob's extra detailing precludes my method.  Don't ya just love his postings?  It's like getting a new FSM issue every other day.

Thanks Freem......Deck furniture is the general term to describe the machinery, fife rails, pumps that are found on the deck of a ship.  The deck is the room and the furniture is the things you use in the room......furniture.

Actually..I have not considered a book..though I do teach techniques to other modelers when applicable.  Like in my other endeveurs, I like to show what works well for me...things I have learned or developed over a 40 year model building career.

Pedantically speaking. "deck furniture" is the collection of things one furnishes upon the deck structure to make it useful.  

The hull of a ship--especially a cargo ship of CS's era--is a form of box girder; a triangular tube column with closed ends after a fashion.

The rest of the "things" are applied to/through that structure.

So the "deck furniture" is a long list--eyebolts, bitts, chocks, knees, winches, capstans, windlasses, even deckhouses and partial superstructure decks and galleries, if we take it that far.

A great deal of this in sailing vessels comes from the nature of using sails for propulsion.  One of the hardest things to convey in modeling all those spars is just how dynamic they are.  The masts are made up in several sections, sections which were frequently taken apart (the maritime term-of-art is "struck down").  

Because of all that mobility, you need all sorts of attachment points for things.  You also need some defined points of attachment, too.  You also need things like water casks for the crew to drink from.  You need racks for capstan/windlass bars, buckets for sand, you need a stand for the compass (which is called a binnacle); you even need some furnishings for the ship's wheel.

Rob

I have been following this thread for a few weeks now and I am absolutely amazed!  Mostly an airplane builder, but ships of all kinds intruigue me as well.  A couple of questions for you:

1. When you refer to deck furniture what is it? (I think of desks, tables,chairs, etc.

2. Have you considered doing a book about your techniqes?  Ya got one sold already!

Freem

And there you go...a nice block for your rigging ease.  I make hundreds of these.....so I have a process.

Thanks for looking.

Rob

Now paint....

Then feed the end you cut into the block loop and gently press the wire closed.....clamping the block in place.  I use to let these joints be free...but it made rigging a bear as the block kept calapsing.  I now apply a bit pf CA to secure it.  Now you have a finished bloc that you can easily run in any pad eye.

Now just as the second loop is forming..you will cut the part off. (be careful it doesn't fly across the shop)

Now once the bend is similar to the other you will have a peanut looking wire......frame

Then at the bend..you make another roll bend into the other(this will form the bend the block will be secured too)

OK...I thought I'd put together some images together showing how I make blocks for the tops and at the foot of the masts(basically a general use block for padeye use)

I begin with wire I bend with my 3 prong pliers...making the hook for the block.

Here is an image of the jig I use for rigging the yards......I'm preparing to run the chain sheets and their block...   Just to let you see how I do it.  Each block is tied off with double overhand knots....then tide to the yard.  This gives the block freedom to move within the knot....so they are not so stiff...or inclined incorrectly.

Personally I find this Revell kit a great foundation for a proper well executed model.  Unlike wood kits of the CS...the plastic one can be SUPER detailed with very satisfying realistic results......

Rob