Subfixer, you are correct, the Aztek 470 still works that way. If you set away from double action, you can dial in the maximum amount of paint it will put out, and the trigger can control the airflow as it has a large amount of travel.

Bill, my best wishes to you and your wife.

Gentlemen, as the person who started this thread to understand how the Grex trigger works, I appreciate all the comments. I've certainly learn a lot - didn't know there were so many variations with Double action brushes. I'm most likely will get either a Grex with trigger pull or a Badger Spirit, in addition to using my current Aztek brush.  I will definitely be getting the Grex compressor, small, quiet, built in moisture trap and regulator, auto-start/stop. Nice little compressor for under $200.  I would love to get one of those whisper quite silentaires, but the price is a bit out of my budget.

As to how this thread degenerated so quickly, please I would ask everyone to just take a step back. We're all here just trying to learn and share our hobby. Peace.

Waikong,

Thanks for your thoughts, and am stepping back.

I would be interested in hearing your thoughts about the Spirit. What benefits do you see a side feed providing to a modeler, as opposed to a gravity fed?

I guess for 2 reasons, first, I can change a side feed from gravity to siphon if I ever needed to (not that I think I'll need that for modelling - but seems like a nice feature to have). Second, it would seem a straight top feed may block my view for detail work?  I never used a top feed, so I am just worrying about nothing here? Or I guess it depends on how big the cup is? I would imagine a top feed would be easier to clean.

The ability to switch from top feed to bottom feed has it's charms, and a side feed also has the ability to point straight down, which is of obvious benefit to an illustrator. I've often thought about flushing out my collection with the 100SF to match my 100LG and 150. IMHO the side feed is a better way of doing it than the 360, with it's rotating cup.

I confess that I don't aim down the body of my airbrushes, and don't understand the issue of sight line problems with top feed. My 100LG's cup is barely over an inch tall, and I find it doesn't prevent me from observing the needle when painting.The view is improved with the 150, but in practice I hold and use them pretty much the same way. It's like sitting behind a short person at the movies. You can see their head, but it doesn't affect the view of the screen.

I find top feed airbrushes easier to clean. You don't have a siphon tube to deal with, but in practice it really isn't a time saver. I can clean my 100LG in 2-3 minutes and my 150 with color cup in 3-4 minutes.

I have a friend who has a side feed, and he loves his. He's used a top feed, and finds that they are pretty much the same in use.

I've played with one of the Grex brushes. I found the trigger design takes a little getting used to after using more typical top button design. I'm not sure that I like it better or worse, it's just different. I did find it harder to control paint and air for fine work, but that may just be a matter of practice. And I'm not a big fan of the screw on side-mounted gravity cup because it has a habit of loosening up during extended painting sessions and I'd be afraid it my up end dumping paint on my shoes or model. Cleaning was about the same as other brushes. The Grex I've used had a couple of other neat features: A snap-on connection to the air line that allows you to leave the air supply on during brush changes and a pressure fine-tune nob on the valve. If I used a Grex everyday like I do my BearAir, I'm sure it would become second nature and the handle design maybe more comfortable for some modelers.

Cheers, Aaron

Aaron & Bill, thanks for your insight. I'm leaning more to the Badger renegade spirit now, as Aaron, said the pull trigger seems to be more of a comfort thing than a control thing. In the scale that i work in (1/48), I rarely have a 'cramp' trigger finger.  Not to mention that the badger is 1/2 the price of the Grex.  Now, one final question - is the chrome finish on AB just cosmetics or does it make things easier to clean?  The Badger has a dark gun metal finish.

I've never suffered from a cramped finger either, but maybe I'm doing it wrong!

Not having used the Renegades before I can't say if the chrome makes it easier to clean. I'm sure the gun metal finish is just as smooth, but I can see how the dark color could potentially make it more difficult to see if certain colors remain in the cup! I have read a couple of reviews where the user has commented on this. Most reviewers do not, so not sure if it's a real issue or not. I rarely spray gun metal, so it wouldn't be a concern. I did read a review on the Spirit where the user didn't like the metal plug used to seal the other side of the side feed, and they replaced it with a rubber plug. So far, that and the finish color are the only negatives I've read.

The price point is the thing that catches me, every time! Justifying a $200+ airbrush is difficult for me. Even justifying a $120 airbrush is troublesome. Must be my Scots heritage coming through!

Gee I had no idea this thread was still running.

I haven't had any problems sighting my GREX XG over the centrally mounted colour cup. I suppose it would depend on how you hold the brush though.

The GMAC I bought with mine I rarely ever use. I have a compressor with a tank and an adjustable valve so I generally change the pressure there. I suppose it would make a difference if using a 'pressor without a tank though.

I'm of two minds on the grip GREX sells. The pistol grip should be more comfortable but the way your index finger has to curve over the top to reach the button trigger seems to negate any advantage for me. I think it helps some but it's not a must-have.

I currently own two brushes: the GREX XG and a Paasche Millennium. After I did the Thai Ki-43 I posted here a couple of monthes ago with the Paasche I realized I really needed a detail brush and picked up the GREX. I still love the Paasche but I find myself using the GREX more and more these days.

And frankly I've never tried regulating the air flow with the trigger. To me doing that and rocking the trigger back and forth to regulate the paint flow, well it seems like the old stunt about patting your head and rubbing your tummy in circles at the same time. If you can do more power to you, but I'm afraid I'm not that percise.

And the last cool thing about the GREX is it's cool green colour. As a giant green turtle I approve!!!

Okay, so I'm dragging this old thread out from the cobwebs. But I now have a Grex compressor and a Tamiya Super HG airbrush for a few months now, so I can make sure observations for those who are still interested.

Grex compressor - quiet, auto/on off, got it for under $180 - highly recommended.

Tamiya Super HG - similar to Iwator and Ben Rich from what I read. Compared to the Aztek 470:  Much more work to clean, can spray a finer coat of paint, easier to control as there's less play in the trigger, great for fine lines and layering paint.  As everyone have mentioned, this 'traditiona' brush does not give any control via how deeply you press the tirgger. There's simlply not enough travel in the trigger to do so.  With the Aztek I am able to do just that.

So now I use the Aztek for primers, Future coats, and over large coverage and use the Tamiya for all fine details and camo finshes.

waikong

Grex compressor - quiet, auto/on off, got it for under $180 - highly recommended.

It's just a little over 6 months.

Any more detail on the Grex compressor?

A while back, there was a long thread on Warbirdbuilder's complaint about moisture problem of his Grex compressor. A Grex rep said that the compressor was supposed to run hot because of the higher pressure. (It is no higher than other similar airbrush compressors, in fact.)

It does not sound like that you have any moisture problem. Does the compressor stay cool? Can you put your hand on the compressor cylinder head after half hour run without feeling burnt?

This is the only review I have seen on the Tamiya HG Superfine. The author compared it to the Aztec 470 too. Did you identify a source for the Tamiya airbrush parts (needle, nozzle etc.)? It would be nice to know if they are interchangable with Iwata parts.

I haven't noticed any heat problem -but I've never tried putting my hand over it.  The compressor has a auto on/off - it only runs when you've sufficiently decreased the air pressue inside.  So it never really runs continuously for more than a a few seconds.  I guess maybe if you sprayed continuously for minutes without stopping, the heat may build up.  But in my typical session, it would maybe come on for 3-4 seconds every 1/2 a minute or so. I'll give putting my hand over it  this weekend.

No issue with moisture either, the unit comes with a regulator and moisture trap. So if there's any moisture getting into the line, I says it's just defective.

I have not tried spare parts compatibility, but at least from a hose and fittings, I see places selling stuff that's Iwata/Tamiya compatible.

Most piston type compressors are recommended to be turned of to cool down for a couple of minutes every 15-20 period. To run it for more than this is asking for heat related problems, which will end in excessive wear. This is one of the primary reasons why I recommend compressors with tanks. With a tank, the pauses comes naturally. But I've seen them break down as well. Not to long ago I read about a person who complained about that his Sparmax TC-5000 broke down the first day. Problem was that he had left it on in his garage, without anything connected. It broke down after a couple of hours.

I have Tamiya HG Superfine on order, just to compare with my Rich RB-2. I will get back with info on how they differ, and which parts are interchangable. I believe that most important parts are the same, and needles and nozzles are quite cheap for the Richs.  

waikong

I haven't noticed any heat problem -but I've never tried putting my hand over it.  The compressor has a auto on/off - it only runs when you've sufficiently decreased the air pressue inside.  So it never really runs continuously for more than a a few seconds.  I guess maybe if you sprayed continuously for minutes without stopping, the heat may build up.  But in my typical session, it would maybe come on for 3-4 seconds every 1/2 a minute or so. I'll give putting my hand over it  this weekend.

It is how I expect a compressor with the auto-on-off switch to work. The motor runs only when the airbrush trigger was pushed. That's why I was so surprised that Warbirdbuilder had the moisture problem and the Grex rep came online to state that Grex compressor was supposed to run hot.

I added a 1-gallon tank to a Paasche DA400 compressor. The tank is a little bigger than most that comes with the airbrush compressor with tank. The motor runs just over 3 minutes to fill the tank when it is first turned on. It did not get hot. I tried to force the motor to run up to 30 minutes once. It got warm to the touch, but never hot enough to burn figure. I expect most good design to be like that.

waikong

No issue with moisture either, the unit comes with a regulator and moisture trap. So if there's any moisture getting into the line, I says it's just defective.

It should not have moisture problem except in extremely humid climate where the air may be saturated to begin with. I still suspect that Warbirdbuilder got a defective compressor.