Testor enamel questions

Fesan

 

if i do go with the iwata is it recommended i get the .5 needle also?

 

The short simple answer here for me is, I would want the .5 for the Testors enamels shooting onto model cars if nothing else.

Only thing is I probably wouldn't buy that airbrush for me personally in the first place. Sorry to make it more confusing lol ! Go study Don's website, Blacksheep posted the link.

Been looking over the site almoat like the iwata badger patriot or the pasche H will all fit my needs. my lhs has all 3 making it a harder choice lol

Fesan

Been looking over the site almoat like the iwata badger patriot or the pasche H will all fit my needs. my lhs has all 3 making it a harder choice lol

 

Not hard. Buy one now and save up for the other later. Check eBay and other sources like tcpglobal.com

oldermodelguy

The short simple answer here for me is, I would want the .5 for the Testors enamels shooting onto model cars if nothing else.

I agree. I seldom change out the .5. It is my go to needle for most of my needs.

oldermodelguy

 

 

Bakster

 

I totally agree with that. I mentioned my Badger as a reference, and not as a recommendation. It could be construed as such; I just want to clarify that.

 

 

 

 

Ya he likes the HP-cs, which can be bought with or ordered for it, a .5 needle and nozzle. Nothing wrong with that, I just wanted to show that video and the result with a $50 option as the airbrush.

It's not the brush but how you use it. The Paasche H kit is one of the best bargains going out there for car body painting ( Don Yotes' brush of choice for all his custom paint work), you can hose that sucker right down with enamels that are mixed right. The medium tip on the Paasche H is .77. The large tip on my Badger is .7 or .75 but I find I use the medium most, which is .5 like the Iwata is and I believe your Anthom is as well.. I like .5 for model cars personally. I like .7 for varnishes on my wifes crafts and ceramics .

Course you have to think of compressors too lol ! Andy-X was shooting @ 35 psi, he needs a compressor that keeps flowing 35psi. With my .5 needle I shoot around 26 psi. I have a compressor that could handle 50 psi if I needed it but some of these little hobby compressors might not do the 35psi with .77 needle. I know one guy out there starved his Paasche H for air with the large needle which I think is 1.05.

 

 

air brushes do well will tamiya primer thinned down? i seem to read about people decanting for air brushes whats the point? Sorry for the 500 question game this will be a whole new horizon for me.

Fesan

air brushes do well will tamiya primer thinned down? i seem to read about people decanting for air brushes whats the point? Sorry for the 500 question game this will be a whole new horizon for me.

 

I don't know why they decant it when you can buy it in bottles. However airbrushing primer in general gives you more control once you know what you're doing.

That said, for Testors MM enamels and for acrylic paints I use Badger Stynylrez primer personally. It can be sprayed as is but I like to cut it about 10-15%. It's selve leveling, non toxic. The one and only down side is you gotta clean your airbrush right away and really rinse it out. But it sticks nearly as well as solvent primers but with no stink. I thought I'd try it about 18 months ago and never looked back.

oldermodelguy

 That said, for Testors MM enamels and for acrylic paints I use Badger Stynylrez primer personally. It can be sprayed as is but I like to cut it about 10-15%. It's selve leveling, non toxic. The one and only down side is you gotta clean your airbrush right away and really rinse it out. But it sticks nearly as well as solvent primers but with no stink. I thought I'd try it about 18 months ago and never looked back.

 

Fesan

bottles laat you a decent amount on average? And you use all 3 colors or prefer one over the other?

 

If you mean Stynylrez then yes they last quite well ( I mean you use what you use with any paint ya know, you can't use it and keep it too lol). It covers well,  I'm usually good with just one coat. Right now I just keep white and tint it how I want it to be. There could be an argument for having black and white and tint the white to what ever gray you want. It takes very little black in white to get gray. But you can buy the colors, there are more colors than black, white and gray available.

If you have any ideas about shooting lacquers get the Tamiya primer ( or lacquer primer of your choice) and live with the stink, Stynylrez is hit and miss with lacquer paint and all you need is one failure to really get you torqued off. Fortunately for me it happened in one of my tests with nail polish and xylene and not on the model I was about to paint. I usually use an acrylic silver paint between the primer and nail polish ( it picks up the specular highlights from the silver fleck) but this time did not and the primer let go in a couple of spots. So I can officially say stynylrez isn't full safe under lacquer now without the acrylic barrier there.

oldermodelguy

Stynylrez is hit and miss with lacquer paint and all you need is one failure to really get you torqued off

Oh man.... you had me up until then. Lol. Truth is, I puchased Stynylrez about 6 months ago and I have yet to test it. I have heard good things about it. Part of me is having trouble accepting that an acrylic will make for a good primer. I base that on all the adhesion problems I have seen with acrylics. But, I WANT TO BELIEVE. Your comment about lacquer issues  raises a flag for me because I just made a move to start using more lacquer  based paints. I will need to tread carefully.

Good information coming from this thread. Keep up the good work!

The more we talk the more i keep thinking i need an addition on the house for a workshop lol. Keep getting more and more insight and wanting to try more and more stuff.

do have another question with paint is it easier to prime 90% of my stuff still on the spruce and touch up as i cut off? Or easier for say a motor to be fitted and glued to be primed after?

Fesan

air brushes do well will tamiya primer thinned down? i seem to read about people decanting for air brushes whats the point? Sorry for the 500 question game this will be a whole new horizon for me.

 

I am one of them decanting people. The only bottled Tamiya primer I can find is what appears to be designed for brushing. Some of what I read about it is that it has added fillers. The stuff is very thick! A person would need to do some serious thinning. Some people claim it works well for airbrushing, some say the opposite. I have not tried thinning it for that purpose and I don't intend to. I don't see the point. Decanting is easy, and this way I know I am using a product designed for spraying. Btw...the bottled version works really well for filling imperfections and such. It sands really well and it has quickly become part of my workflow when prepping for paint.

Just my two cents, for what it is worth.

Fesan

The more we talk the more i keep thinking i need an addition on the house for a workshop lol. Keep getting more and more insight and wanting to try more and more stuff.

 

 

do have another question with paint is it easier to prime 90% of my stuff still on the spruce and touch up as i cut off? Or easier for say a motor to be fitted and glued to be primed after?

 

I like to prime and even paint some items on the sprue trees, I've generally done this over 60 years of modeling for undercarriage parts for instance, and floor pans. Engines I like to assemble block halves and heads. Then whittle down a piece of sprue or get a toothpick and stick that in the tranny hole to hold it with.

I can't help you with your hobby room lol ! But I do wood work, mostly wood turning in the basement , so modelling happens in the kitchen, the air is too damp down there most of the year for painting anyway, the kitchen air conditioned. Just a portable spray booth is the main thing. You don't want to have to run outdoors when you get a whim to paint or experiment with paint , wait for weather etc...

Fesan

do have another question with paint is it easier to prime 90% of my stuff still on the spruce and touch up as i cut off? Or easier for say a motor to be fitted and glued to be primed after?

Very good questions, Fesan. You will probably get a lot of different opinions on this and I hope many people share them. I am always looking for better ways of doing things too.

For the sake of discussion, I don't paint with the parts on the sprue. I like to remove nubs, glue sub assemblies that need gluing, fix seams and imperfections, then paint. I attach a holder to the parts for painting where it won't interfere with the final finish. That's my process, it doesn't make it a right process. Maybe down the road I will change that.

Heh... now things are starting to turn into a mushroom cloud and your head is spinning on a pivot. Slow down and take it slow with what product you should get, the best process (decanting for one), lacquer, enamel, acrylic, etc...

Granted, this is all new to you. Everybody has given you lots of different opinions and it shouldn’t be complicated for you to figure out what’s best for you and your budget. Start off with the basics. Try something new later on your next build.  

I go the simple route for primer Rustoleum brand primer in a rattle can. I’ve got in grey and white. Both are wet and dry sandable and goes down smooth.

I have a wide vareity of paints in my stash... Testors Model Master enamel and acrylics (most of my enamels were from my teen years and still good condition), Tamiya, Gunze, LifeColor, Aeromaster, a few PollyScale bottles, a few Humbrol enamels, Mission Model acrylicswhich I’m planning on adding more colors o my collection to replace some of the enamels. I’ve got my eye on a few AK Real Colors Im looking to add to my paint stash.

Bakster

 

Very good questions, Fesan. You will probably get a lot of different opinions on this and I hope many people share them. I am always looking for better ways of doing things too.

For the sake of discussion, I don't paint with the parts on the sprue. I like to remove nubs, glue sub assemblies that need gluing, fix seams and imperfections, then paint. I attach a holder to the parts for painting where it won't interfere with the final finish. That's my process, it doesn't make it a right process. Maybe down the road I will change that.

 

Double sided tape on a sprue stick works sometimes. The foam type.

oldermodelguy

Double sided tape on a sprue stick works sometimes. The foam type.

Good thinking. I have some of that tape, will have to remember that one. 

Bakster

 

 

oldermodelguy

Double sided tape on a sprue stick works sometimes. The foam type.

 

 

Good thinking. I have some of that tape, will have to remember that one. 

 

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

 I’ve got my eye on a few AK Real Colors Im looking to add to my paint stash. 

Funny that you mention this. This is the lacquer based paint I was referring to. I ordered several of the standard colors to start with. I might do some testing today.

More than one way to skin a cat, as they say. I use alligator clips too. These work well when you can clip onto something that won’t be seen. I bought some through amazon that are attached to wires. They work great. Sometimes I take a piece of Tamiya masking tape and loop it onto itself, stickyside out. Then stick the piece to it. Sometimes I melt the  end of a spru and stick it to the hidden side of a piece. Different methods for different jobs.

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

Heh... now things are starting to turn into a mushroom cloud and your head is spinning on a pivot. Slow down and take it slow with what product you should get, the best process (decanting for one), lacquer, enamel, acrylic, etc...

Granted, this is all new to you. Everybody has given you lots of different opinions and it shouldn’t be complicated for you to figure out what’s best for you and your budget. Start off with the basics. Try something new later on your next build.  

I go the simple route for primer Rustoleum brand primer in a rattle can. I’ve got in grey and white. Both are wet and dry sandable and goes down smooth.

I have a wide vareity of paints in my stash... Testors Model Master enamel and acrylics (most of my enamels were from my teen years and still good condition), Tamiya, Gunze, LifeColor, Aeromaster, a few PollyScale bottles, a few Humbrol enamels, Mission Model acrylicswhich I’m planning on adding more colors o my collection to replace some of the enamels. I’ve got my eye on a few AK Real Colors Im looking to add to my paint stash.

 

 

Missed a few posts, had to take my grandson on his drivers test. He failed. Drove fine but missed setting the handbrake on a hill and directional coming out of parallel parking, looking for blind spots besides using mirrors.

Anyway before we left for that I was going to suggest clips on a stick as well.

Tamiya surface Primer isn't complicated:  https://youtu.be/CdsBAkQcLu4

oldermodelguy

Missed a few posts, had to take my grandson on his drivers test. He failed. Drove fine but missed setting the handbrake on a hill and directional coming out of parallel parking, looking for blind spots besides using mirrors.

Anyway before we left for that I was going to suggest clips on a stick as well.

Tamiya surface Primer isn't complicated:  https://youtu.be/CdsBAkQcLu4

 

Fesan

 sorry the grandson failed the test

 

Thanks. The inspector was very nice but very strict, really strict. And really Brian wasn't quite ready imo, his parents prepped him and pushed him to go for this test and I got hooshcowed into bringing him because they both had to work. It is what it is and probably for the best in the long run. I'll be glad to take him out driving again so he can get this down in automatic fashion.

Think tonights the night ill finally start working on my new mustang and just take it nice and slow try to accent some details and just try to do an over all better job then the first one

Fesan

Think tonights the night ill finally start working on my new mustang and just take it nice and slow try to accent some details and just try to do an over all better job then the first one

 

Ya, hey rattle cans still do a great job as far as the paint goes. Is this build right from the kit, basically stock ?

oldermodelguy

 

 

Ya, hey rattle cans still do a great job as far as the paint goes. Is this build right from the kit, basically stock ?

 

Fesan

yes a basic stock one basically. First one i built i went exactly as the instructions where including color to just get a feel for the models again. This one trying to accent some of the body detail. Might leave the body in primer till after next week or two when the air brush will be on my steps when i come home from work one day.

 

Be interesting to hear how you progress !

Did you ever resolve what airbrush you will buy into if you do that?

In particular with car bodies, dust will kill you. Take care to keep the car as dust free as possible for as long as you can after painting. This could be as simple as putting it in a clean box or bin with a lid.

GMorrison

In particular with car bodies, dust will kill you. Take care to keep the car as dust free as possible for as long as you can after painting. This could be as simple as putting it in a clean box or bin with a lid.

 

That is sound advice. Nothing irks me than finding dust particles on a gloss coat. Simple remedy is find a cheap plastic bin at a dollar store.