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They really should have a like button around here.
GMorrison In particular with car bodies, dust will kill you. Take care to keep the car as dust free as possible for as long as you can after painting. This could be as simple as putting it in a clean box or bin with a lid.
In particular with car bodies, dust will kill you. Take care to keep the car as dust free as possible for as long as you can after painting. This could be as simple as putting it in a clean box or bin with a lid.
oldermodelguy Be interesting to hear how you progress ! Did you ever resolve what airbrush you will buy into if you do that?
Be interesting to hear how you progress !
Did you ever resolve what airbrush you will buy into if you do that?
As for the airbrush i am a toss up between a badger patriot and iwata eclipse the more i research. In a few weeks might just add the pasche H to the arsenal for the bodies.
Fesan As for the airbrush i am a toss up between a badger patriot and iwata eclipse the more i research. In a few weeks might just add the pasche H to the arsenal for the bodies.
I don't know that there is any particular magic going on with a Paasche H other than it's a pretty simple design that works and it's large nozzles are a natural for enamels etc.. With one of your other choices and the right needle you may well find you don't need the H. On the other hand if someone has an H and they mostly model cars they may well find they don't need anything more than the H. Just sayin.
oldermodelguy I don't know that there is any particular magic going on with a Paasche H other than it's a pretty simple design that works and it's large nozzles are a natural for enamels etc.. With one of your other choices and the right needle you may well find you don't need the H. On the other hand if someone has an H and they mostly model cars they may well find they don't need anything more than the H. Just sayin.
Fesan i do plan on doing armor and planes later on which seems to need the smaller needle i did plan to get either the badger or iwata (which will also get the .5 needle) and try it out. If i couldnt get the quality i am looking for in the body is when the pasche H would be considered more so.
i do plan on doing armor and planes later on which seems to need the smaller needle i did plan to get either the badger or iwata (which will also get the .5 needle) and try it out. If i couldnt get the quality i am looking for in the body is when the pasche H would be considered more so.
There are several ways to do armor though. Masks and stencils, brushing, dry brushing to name a few. Not everyone gets a special airbrush for armor. A smaller needle and also double action brush is nice for free hand work. This is one simple example out of scores of them online: https://youtu.be/ewBXKjdlvhk
Either way been leaning towards my original choice of the iwata and getting the .5 needle to help with priming and the bodies. Later in life ill dabble in more air brushes once it looks like a toddler did not do the paint job
Fesan Either way been leaning towards my original choice of the iwata and getting the .5 needle to help with priming and the bodies. Later in life ill dabble in more air brushes once it looks like a toddler did not do the paint job
The .5 should do primer and glossy car paint fine.
Hi;
What I find works well for me is this .I use a darker shade of the same color for panel lines on cars .Just enough to make it SLIGHTLY visible. On anything else it matters not to me .
Thinning also is selective .I buy new paint and thin it upon arriving home by one quarter of the bottle contents .I then store it after mixing well, for about a month in a cabinet . Airbrushing for autos and trucks is tricky sometimes I use basically a gloss wash to give a subtle " Ultra Light Shade" of the color I want.
I used to use candy coats thinned 50% to achieve very light pastel colors . T.B.
I don't see why the Testors filler wouldn't work. If you can't find it squirt some of the Tamiya primer into a small plastic container and stir it around, let it sit, stir some more etc until it is a little looser than putty like ( you want to evaporate some of the thinner off). Then with a fine brush apply that to your scratches. When dry sand smooth. If it didn't quite fill them, repeat. With an airbrush you could then spot prime the area and scuff it all smooth.. With rattle can you may have to reprime ( not sure because I'm not there to see it).
What you want to do is what Mr Surfacer/ Primer 1000 is all about. Or even Tamiya lacquer primer in a bottle. One of the videos I posted the other day showed how to do this.
Should define the “scratches“. They are spots near body lines my blade slipped and are deeper then i thought. Figured primer would of filled them in and boy was i wrong lol. If i knew how to get imgur to display the photo correctly i would post it so you could see.
I don't need to see them, I know what knife digs look like lol !
Hmmm... I use Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty. Easy to use and sand. Sanding meaning I simply use a wet q-tip or sponge. No sanding dust to worry about.
Fesan If i knew how to get imgur to display the photo correctly i would post it so you could see.
If i knew how to get imgur to display the photo correctly i would post it so you could see.
FWIW try signing up at postimage. They have a simple little tool there for posting images into sites
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