Badger Stynylrez gloss black primer

Don't know for sure but USA Airbrush Supply doesn't list it out of stock. I didn't put it in my cart to check further though. I've gotten Styn from them before for whatever that's worth.

Thanks Tojo. I thougt the Amazon prices were too high and delivery too long. That'll work if I get desperate, though. (I did that recently with a $30 400ml bottle of Mr Leveling Thinner )

Thanks OMG, believe it or not, I placed an order the other day with USA airbrush. It occurred to me later that I don't really know if they really have it in stock or not. If they are ordering from Badger, that's bad cuz Badger is out of stock.

I'm asking as more of a fallback postion. They have yet to drop the ball on me, but on a couple of occasions they were not quite upfront about inventory and I've had to wait.

I can't remember if they send shipping confirmations, I'm thinking not.

It's been a while since I used them Greg, I really don't recall if they send tracking info, invoices or anything. I know I got my order because even with my swiss cheeze brain I'd remember if not lol !

Now it wasn't gloss black, but I ordered some the other week, the 1st for the badger stuff and USA airbrush. They were prompt and sent some order info, etc...  

oldermodelguy

It's been a while since I used them Greg, I really don't recall if they send tracking info, invoices or anything. I know I got my order because even with my swiss cheeze brain I'd remember if not lol !

 

Same here. If I ever had a problem with them, I'd remember. I do recall sometimes they ship very fast (I'm just a couple hours from them), and sometimes not. That is where I'm coming up with the inventory issue.

Mrchntmarine

Now it wasn't gloss black, but I ordered some the other week, the 1st for the badger stuff and USA airbrush. They were prompt and sent some order info, etc...  

 

That's good feedback, thank you.

I'm hoping for the best. The black gloss is no emergency but I think something is wrong with my white and I need it.

Just as a sort of follow up to another post about Stynylrez, I had asked about shelf life. I'm having some troubles with all of mine, and I suspect it is around 4 yrs and I have ordered replacements (smaller bottles this time). The Black gloss will be new to me.

I'm not saying the shelf life is 4 yrs, just becuase I am having trouble doesn't prove that Also, I think there may have been some trouble with the early bottles of white if memory serves and maybe I got one of them.

Greg

 

 

Mrchntmarine

Now it wasn't gloss black, but I ordered some the other week, the 1st for the badger stuff and USA airbrush. They were prompt and sent some order info, etc...  

 

 

 

 

That's good feedback, thank you.

I'm hoping for the best. The black gloss is no emergency but I think something is wrong with my white and I need it.

Just as a sort of follow up to another post about Stynylrez, I had asked about shelf life. I'm having some troubles with all of mine, and I suspect it is around 4 yrs and I have ordered replacements (smaller bottles this time). The Black gloss will be new to me.

I'm not saying the shelf life is 4 yrs, just becuase I am having trouble doesn't prove that Also, I think there may have been some trouble with the early bottles of white if memory serves and maybe I got one of them.

 

 

I had a hard time getting my black mixed after it settled for a while. Getting the little blobs mixed in. It worked fine when I let it set overnight. But I have a Badger battery powered mixer coming into the LHS maybe today or tomorrow actually now that I think about it. First thing I'll do with that is mix the black Stynylrez and see if it smooths out. My white is fine but it's also a newer bottle than the black.

I also learned or was reminded maybe, that alcohol prep of model parts is a bad idea if you use Stynylrez as your primer. Using alcohol to clean parts has caused my Stynylrez to fish eye. Makes no sense to me but when I use oderless mineral spirits there is no issue. Just an observation. Originally I thought that phenomenon was me mixing a tad of thinner in the Stynylrez but I've since determined that not to be the cause since I rarely thin it anyway.. I specifically prepped one of my infamous prescription bottles with 70% iso and sure enough not the greatest adhesion and fish eyes. I tossed that p bottle, prepped one with mineral spirits, sprayed with the same Stynylrez and all was fine. It's fine with me because I've been prepping with mineral spirits anyway for the last year or so.

I can't believe you mentioned ISO. I wiped down with ISO yesterday before spraying some Stynlyrez white, and fisheye discribes just what I got. Also, I did some prepping with Mr Surfacer 1000 and forgot that ISO attacks that stuff too, which baffles me.

I use the Badger mixer and have only recently started mixing Stynylrez with it due to troubles. You mentioned globs, and that describes what I'm getting. I can't say the Badger stirrer does or does not solve the problem.

OTOH, I used primarily Stynylrez grey for years with no issues. Could spray forever, no dry tip, no stoppage. I recently tried a thorough stir with the Badger stirrer (with the grey). I think it helped, but did not solve the issue. This is why I have new (smaller white/grey/black with a gloss black on the side on order.

We should stay in touch on this as it sounds like we might be having similar issues.

Greg

I can't believe you mentioned ISO. I wiped down with ISO yesterday before spraying some Stynlyrez white, and fisheye discribes just what I got. Also, I did some prepping with Mr Surfacer 1000 and forgot that ISO attacks that stuff too, which baffles me.

I use the Badger mixer and have only recently started mixing Stynylrez with it due to troubles. You mentioned globs, and that describes what I'm getting. I can't say the Badger stirrer does or does not solve the problem.

OTOH, I used primarily Stynylrez grey for years with no issues. Could spray forever, no dry tip, no stoppage. I recently tried a thorough stir with the Badger stirrer (with the grey). I think it helped, but did not solve the issue. This is why I have new (smaller white/grey/black with a gloss black on the side on order.

We should stay in touch on this as it sounds like we might be having similar issues.

 

I'm disappointed to hear the mixer didn't smooth things out. Ok, plan B then : I'll get it as smooth as I can and pour it off through a strainer into another container, rinse the bottle and pour it back in. I still had little lumps in there yesterday but had let it settle overnight. I mixed white and black to make grey primer, sprayed with no incident. So I doubt the missing blobs will matter much. Time will tell lol !!

I'll stay in touch, sure will. FWIW, meanwhile I just stuck my mixing stick in the bottle gave a gentle stir and the stick came out with smooth black primer on it. I could feel a little tacky stuff on the bottom but nothing like when it sits for a week or two. I'm sure it would work fine but not sure why those clumps won't mix in.

I'm going to do more investigations about your "clumps". I like your dump and strain idea. Let me know.

Please don't let me discourage you regarding the Badger Stirrer. I have no patience and very likely I'm not stirring long enough.

What do you use for a strainer?

Greg

I'm going to do more investigations about your "clumps". I like your dump and strain idea. Let me know.

Please don't let me discourage you regarding the Badger Stirrer. I have no patience and very likely I'm not stirring long enough.

What do you use for a strainer?

 

I haven't done it yet but someplace around here I have some paint strainers. I want to wait and try the power stirrer which to my knowledge has not come in yet. I'll give the LHS a jingle tomorrow.

Right now I'm more excited about the Minicraft 1931 Ford roadster in 1/16 scale that's supposedly shipping in. I want the sedan too but my wife actually ordered in the roadster so not complaining, supposed to be unopened. We shall see.

The motorized stirrer from badger works a treat and should solve your issues. I also bought a battery powered milk frother wand thing, cut off the big end piece leaving a 1/2" lead of metal tube and use that in dropper type bottles like Vallejo and ammo paints, That is excellent! Stir them every time and great results. great investment!

modelmaker66

The motorized stirrer from badger works a treat and should solve your issues. I also bought a battery powered milk frother wand thing, cut off the big end piece leaving a 1/2" lead of metal tube and use that in dropper type bottles like Vallejo and ammo paints, That is excellent! Stir them every time and great results. great investment!

 

My dropper paints for now are Vallejo Model Air and I haven't decided to move from them, I only keep a few colors but like what I have.. Also Golden High Flow, no issue there. I also haven't had much trouble with droppers as some folks seem to indicate. Model Master acrylic which I like for several applications you can stir and shake all day and still see pigment on the bottom, there I think the power stirrer will be good. The black Stynylrez is a new phenomenon but I'm thinking it's going to work there too ultimately.

Thanks for your input as always !

I get the opposite effect when using liquid mask on canopies. If I wash a canopy with soap and water and then use liquid mask it puddles and acts weird having to go back several times to cover the area but if cleaned with ISO the liquid mask goes on covering just fine. Weird how certain products react.

modelmaker66

The motorized stirrer from badger works a treat and should solve your issues. I also bought a battery powered milk frother wand thing, cut off the big end piece leaving a 1/2" lead of metal tube and use that in dropper type bottles like Vallejo and ammo paints, That is excellent! Stir them every time and great results. great investment!

 

I exercised patience stirring regular black Stynylrez (not gloss) last night and stirred with the Badger for quite a while. You are right, it worked well. No clogs, but I eventually still got some dry tip. **  Despite my previous comments, I do believe you are right and the Badger stirrer is helping.

I'm interested in your frother conversion, having trouble visualizing what is left on the stem to stir after you cut off the business end of the frother. I like the idea of having something to fit in Vallejo style dropper bottles. I used them a lot and currently use a Tamiya stir stick, which is at least better than a toothpick!

Thanks for your input.

plasticjunkie

I get the opposite effect when using liquid mask on canopies. If I wash a canopy with soap and water and then use liquid mask it puddles and acts weird having to go back several times to cover the area but if cleaned with ISO the liquid mask goes on covering just fine. Weird how certain products react.

 

It is weird.

That's also good to know. I've had liquid mask do that after washing canopies, now that you mention it. Good info, thanks, Ernie.

Greg

 

 

 I used them a lot and currently use a Tamiya stir stick, which is at least better than a toothpick!

Thanks for your input.

 

I've watched a few videos on getting dropper bottle paint mixed and people seem to favor a little stainless steel nut in each bottle. And obviously shake. A steel nut won't work, they rust in acrylic paint. Seems to me I've experienced that but I can't put my finger on where, how etc. So I just agree   .

No new mixer today, they say Mon now.

Greg

 

 

plasticjunkie

I get the opposite effect when using liquid mask on canopies. If I wash a canopy with soap and water and then use liquid mask it puddles and acts weird having to go back several times to cover the area but if cleaned with ISO the liquid mask goes on covering just fine. Weird how certain products react.

 

 

 

 

It is weird.

That's also good to know. I've had liquid mask do that after washing canopies, now that you mention it. Good info, thanks, Ernie.

 

I've heard that tip about the stainless nuts. Contrary to common wisdom, stainless can rust under certain circumstances. Since I'm a worrywart, haven't tried it.

Greg

I've heard that tip about the stainless nuts. Contrary to common wisdom, stainless can rust under certain circumstances. Since I'm a worrywart, haven't tried it.

 

316 stainless nuts are a good idea. I didn't realize all marine grade means is 316 series stainless until I just looked it up. 2 1/2 years is a good testimonial. I might try it.

That's 3 of us now with clogging issues. I will say this did not happen within the first couple of years with my black or grey. I think my white may be bad, it is very inconsistent and I just recently used the very old 'new' bottle for the first time. I seem to recall they might have had a bad early batch of white, and this is separate from the well-known freezing issue.

I have strainer material coming today. If that doesn't solve the issue I think the only way I will know for sure is when my replacement Stynylrez finally arrives and we'll see how it behaves.

I'm still not understanding what you fellers mean when you say you are cutting the end off the frothers. What is left to stir/agitate? I'm telling you, I can be extremely dense sometimes.

Thanks for your input, Jon. Good to hear from you.

Greg

316 stainless nuts are a good idea. I didn't realize all marine grade means is 316 series stainless until I just looked it up. 2 1/2 years is a good testimonial. I might try it.

That's 3 of us now with clogging issues. I will say this did not happen within the first couple of years with my black or grey. I think my white may be bad, it is very inconsistent and I just recently used the very old 'new' bottle for the first time. I seem to recall they might have had a bad early batch of white, and this is separate from the well-known freezing issue.

I have strainer material coming today. If that doesn't solve the issue I think the only way I will know for sure is when my replacement Stynylrez finally arrives and we'll see how it behaves.

I'm still not understanding what you fellers mean when you say you are cutting the end off the frothers. What is left to stir/agitate? I'm telling you, I can be extremely dense sometimes.

Thanks for your input, Jon. Good to hear from you.

 

Just for the record I haven't had a clog, my Black Stynylrez when shaken up had lumps in it. I let that settle and just give a stir or light shake. Wait a few minutes then drip some into the cup. I shot black Styn this morning, it went fine.

Nozzle clog may be clumps but it may be simple tip dry, it's been a warm summer.

Non the less, I've never had clumps in my stynylrez before. This bottle of black sat quite a while and got really separated, it seems to have not all gone back together after manual stirring and shaking. Also for the record I'm sure if one of those lumps got into my airbrush I would get a clog. But too I tend to prime with my Paasche H #3 tip which is single action .77 needle. But I haven't seen any blobs in my painted surfaces either, so my efforts are just avoiding the lumps getting into the cup thus far. I could lose that battle at any moment lol.

Greg

 

 

 

I'm interested in your frother conversion, having trouble visualizing what is left on the stem to stir after you cut off the business end of the frother. I like the idea of having something to fit in Vallejo style dropper bottles. \

 

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Bulletproof-Cappuccino-Frappucino-Chocolate/dp/B07MJKK68B/ref=sr_1_6?crid=105S6B0FU30LD&dchild=1&keywords=battery+operated+milk+frothing+wand&qid=1597644878&sprefix=battery+frothing+wand%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-6

modelmaker66

 

 

Greg

 

 

 

I'm interested in your frother conversion, having trouble visualizing what is left on the stem to stir after you cut off the business end of the frother. I like the idea of having something to fit in Vallejo style dropper bottles. \

 

 

 

 

The frother is straight like the badger, Then at the frothing end it terminates at a right angle of wire the same as the shaft that eventually becomes the frother. I cut all but 1/4" of the remaining rod after the right angle. Imagine an "L" with a long vertical and stubby horizontal. Here is a link to a frother. Click through the pics until you see the one angle you need to visualize best. Hope it helps. It does help me.

 

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Bulletproof-Cappuccino-Frappucino-Chocolate/dp/B07MJKK68B/ref=sr_1_6?crid=105S6B0FU30LD&dchild=1&keywords=battery+operated+milk+frothing+wand&qid=1597644878&sprefix=battery+frothing+wand%2Caps%2C182&sr=8-6

 

 

Ahah! Now I get it. Thank you!

Your explanation of the 90 degree angle and as you said, the link you provided shows it in one of the views. Now I understand what is doing the stirring.

oldermodelguy

It's been a while since I used them Greg, I really don't recall if they send tracking info, invoices or anything. I know I got my order because even with my swiss cheeze brain I'd remember if not lol !

 

Just an update on this, finally got shipping confirmation from USA Airbrush Supply today.

Soon I'll be able to do some new vs old Stynylrez comparison tests. I ran some through a strainer last night but dinner bell rang and didn't get a chance to spray it.

Earlier you mentioned dry tip. I don't really understand the relationship between humidity and dry tip.

Further, I paint in the basement of house with central air. In summertime it is a fairly constant 66 degrees (for those of you who live in non-basement places, they are always 5-8 degrees cooler) and I guess I've always assumed that the humidity is low too and not to worry regarding the airbrushing. The water spitting out of my water trap yesterday suggests otherwise.

Anybody care to comment?

Greg

 

Anybody care to comment?

 

Well you have a fairly constant environment there I imagine. I would associate hot dry air to be more of a tip dry problem than 66f either dry or slightly humid. I know my ac has been dripping steady all summer, though we caught a break these last couple of days. But even with ac and certainly comfortable in the house, where I spray is both a few deg warmer and probably more humid than the dead of winter. I don't get a lot of tip dry though because my paints are thinned with my thinner generally and that has retarder in it to aid the tip dry situation. I can get tip dry with Stynylrez when the airbrush sits a couple of minutes between coats because I don't tend to thin that. I used to thin it some, don't recall tip dry then but then I didn't think I liked my thinner in that primer nor needed it. So ya, here we are !!!

I'll be looking forward to your comparison results. But I have to figure your new Stynylrez won't be lumpy so it may be some time down the road till you really know anything.

oldermodelguy

I would associate hot dry air to be more of a tip dry problem than 66f either dry or slightly humid.

I was thinking the same.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Another thought I just had is when I started with Stynylrez, I tended to spray it as if my airbrush were single-action, trigger full back with .5mm nozzle. Just realized my airbrush techique has changed since I have also been using retarders with my acryls, thinning more, and also painting more acrylic lacquers and pure lacquers. Point, finally, is I have been babying my trigger with the Stynlyrez and likely creating some of these troubles myself.

Greg

 

 

oldermodelguy

I would associate hot dry air to be more of a tip dry problem than 66f either dry or slightly humid.

 

 

I was thinking the same.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Another thought I just had is when I started with Stynylrez, I tended to spray it as if my airbrush were single-action, trigger full back with .5mm nozzle. Just realized my airbrush techique has changed since I have also been using retarders with my acryls, thinning more, and also painting more acrylic lacquers and pure lacquers. Point, finally, is I have been babying my trigger with the Stynlyrez and likely creating some of these troubles myself.

 

I don't ever recall shooting Stynylrez with my DA brush so I guess I can't offer a whole lot of info there except to say that my DA lives with either the .2 or .3 on it so it's not the ideal candidate to begin with. No the H with #3 does fine, I have cut the tip way back lately and I'm liking the result of that. I just put down a couple light coats, enough to cover the plastic, it's always smooth and level. Can't ask a whole lot more. The H flushes and back flushes easy with the side cup on there, I only periodically take it apart. I mostly use it because it's single action and has a more than substantial tip size living on it for primer and varnishes ( varnishes on my wifes ceramics mostly). But I'll use it for craft paint color coats too. I shot MM acryl with it this morning actually.