To all Filipino Modelers

Does anybody have the Tel. no. and contact person of Natalie's JN Hobby shop at Harrison? Thnx for any info.

QUOTE: Originally posted by sigman Thanks a heap Rico, really appreciated it. BTW, do they have solvaset?

Sorry, they don't carry Solvaset. They have the Gunze Mr. Mark Softer nad Mr. Mark Setter.

Rico

QUOTE: Originally posted by emjaetee that's great! thanks.... that's for airbrushing... any tip on minimizing brushmarks when doing brush painting, sir?

Sorry, I don't do much hand painting, especially on large areas. On an aircraft, I only handbrush mostly on the cockpit area and these require mainly picking out details. My advice to you would be to use a good brand of paint. Most enamels are good for hand brushing. If you could find the Pactra-Tamiya variety, their the best. Testors Model master, Tamiya and Humbrol are also good. Academy enamels are a varied bunch. Some especially the green and grays are quite good. Others,mostly the pastels and glossies, are crap. For acrylics, Vallejo Acrylicos are good. Tamiya is a bit thick in consistency. Though I haven't tried them, Poly-S paints have a reputation in the U.S. as the best acrylic there is. Hand brushing Lacquers takes a lot of practice. Mix the paint with Mr. retarder to help even out the brush marks. Also brush only in one direction. This applies to all types/brand of paint.

And stop calling me sir!!

Rico

QUOTE: Originally posted by emjaetee that's great! thanks.... that's for airbrushing... any tip on minimizing brushmarks when doing brush painting, sir?

papel de liha....

Thanks a heap Rico, really appreciated it. BTW, do they have solvaset?

that's great! thanks.... that's for airbrushing... any tip on minimizing brushmarks when doing brush painting, sir?

The levelling thinner and mr retarder tends to produce a glossy finish especially when using an airbrush.It allows the paint to settle more, producing a smoother, hence, glossier finish.

If you need a flat finish, use Flat Base ( # 30 on the Gunze color chart ). It can be mixed directly with the paint to render it very flat. For airbrushing,mixed it with #46 ( Clear Gloss) to you get a clear flat solution that will vary in flatness depending on the ratio of both. 75 to 80 per cent Clear Gloss to 25 to 20 percent Clear Flat will produce a a good flat finish when spray over a glossy paint job. 90 percent clear gloss to 10 percent flat base will produce a semi gloss finish. Rule of thumb when mixing the two is first to mix of 50% Clear Gloss to 50% Mr Color Thinner then slowly add small amounts of flat base until you get a murky solution. Test it for your desired effect. If you want a flatter finish simply keep adding flat base in small increments until you are satisfied. Too much flat base will cause the coat you airbrushed to become whitish. When using clear gloss and clear flat, USE ONLY Mr. Color Thinner, DON'T USE the kind from the hardware store.

STC is the exclusive distributor of Gunze-Sangyo products in the Phils. so you can get most of the paints from them.

As far as I know, STC contact nos. are as follows :

Tetuan(main branch)Sta. Cruz, Manila - (02)-733-3508. Ask for Annabelle As for the others, ask for any saleperson. I'm not familiar with the other branches personnel.
Virra Mall Greenhills - (02)-721-5332
Isetann Recto Manila - (02)-733-4261
Filinvest Supermall, Alabang - (02)-850-3928
SM City North Ave. Q.C. - (02)-453-3848
There also one in SM Fairview, another in Rustan's Cubao and a new one in Alabang Town Center called Hobbitoi but I haven't got their contact nos.
I hope this helps.

Rico

Since I'm from Cebu, can I ask from anybody if you have the Tel. no. and contact person of
Natalie's JN, Hobbies and Comics and STC?

QUOTE: Originally posted by sigman BTW, where did you buy Gunze and Model Master?

I buy my Gunze paints in most STC branches.

BTW, where did you buy Gunze and Model Master?

QUOTE: Originally posted by emaula Gee, Thank you very much Noel. Sigman, i forgot to mention that Gunze Mr. Color comes in a wide variety of colors,in gloss,semi-gloss and flat colors. They even have a new line specifically for Gundam models but these come in sets of 3 colors. For hand brushing Mr. Color use Mr. mild retarder or Mr. levelling Thinner. This prolongs the drying time of the paint allowing it to even out on the surface, minimizing brush marks. Rico

they have the same effects, sir? i mean, the Mr. Levelling Thinner and Mr. mild retarder... beside prolonging the setting time, doesn't it affect the paint's gloss?

thanks.

Gee, Thank you very much Noel.

Sigman, i forgot to mention that Gunze Mr. Color comes in a wide variety of colors,in gloss,semi-gloss and flat colors. They even have a new line specifically for Gundam models but these come in sets of 3 colors. For hand brushing Mr. Color use Mr. mild retarder or Mr. levelling Thinner. This prolongs the drying time of the paint allowing it to even out on the surface, minimizing brush marks.

Rico

sigman,

One of our members, Fyzal, is there in Cebu. He even text me to say that he is going to visit Tamiya. You might want to call him through his cell phone and get acquainted. His number is 0921201142

Noel

QUOTE: Originally posted by sigman Hey gals and guys, besides Tamiya, what other brands of paint did you use, comparison of being airbrushed friendly compared to Tamiya?

emaula made a great demo during our recent club meeting using Gunze paints. I also like to use Model Master paints straight out of the bottle. No clogs or mixing needed. And to clean the airbrush, kerosene will do well. The Revell enamel paints are good as well.

Tamiya is good though you need thinning before using them with your airbrush or it will clog your instrument.

Noel

QUOTE: Originally posted by sigman Hey gals and guys, besides Tamiya, what other brands of paint did you use, comparison of being airbrushed friendly compared to Tamiya?

For airbrushing, the best is Gunze-Sangyo Mr. Color.For best results, use it with Mr. Color Thinner. Once airbrush, you get a nice thin and opaque finish and it dries to the touch in minutes.It is can be used with ordinary lacquer thinners but you can only get a flat finish if you do so. Another good thing about Mr. Color is that (whether you use it with Mr. Color Thinner or the ordinary variety) is that, if you make a mistake in painting, you can easily remove or wipe it off you model using Mr. Color Thinner without damaging the plastic.

Hey gals and guys, besides Tamiya, what other brands of paint did you use, comparison of being airbrushed friendly compared to Tamiya?

QUOTE: Originally posted by ReggieFrancia Wow. It looks like this thread will be here for a very very long time. Heck, verytime i visit this site the Communty area always has this thread updated.

Yep reggiefrancia, I been thinking that at this rate, its good to have a forum site for filipino modelers.

Also, thank you gals and guys for the tip on micro set/sol and solvaset. Will try one as soon as i can get my compa-re to buy one for me and send it to cebu.

QUOTE: Originally posted by sigman emaula, I already heard about Micro Sol/Micro Set from this forum and i was wondering if this stuff is available in this country?

Yeah it is. You'll find it at JN Hobbys at Harrison... I think. I remember seeing a bottle or two last time I was there... also Solvaset

Jun

QUOTE: Originally posted by emjaetee Got this from the other thread: i find it really interesting... hope you guys feel the same... an opportunity for modellers! says here that this will be on october... we've got time to prepare.... QUOTE: Originally posted by BigMan To update to those who dont know yet: The 2nd IPMS-Philippines BERT ANIDO Nationals Open will be on October 11-17,2004 @ the 2nd Floor Activity Center, Building A, SM Megamall. Entry Forms will be distributed on selected hobby shops before the month ends. We shall post the entry forms on our website www.ipmsphilippines.com shortly so that this can be downloaded. Kindly log on to our website regulary for updates on the Nationals. Cheers!

Yeah, I did. I even congratulated Jim (este BigMan pala) and wished them good luck. It's going to be fun, believe me. The last one was... and we got a prize to boot!

Jun

QUOTE: Originally posted by shrikes QUOTE: Originally posted by sigman I have heard a lot from this forum that modelers use some kind of setting solution for decals and I would like to ask if any of you guys/gals use any kind of solution and where did you buy it. Firstly, welcome to the Forums, echosierradelta and emaula!! Surprisingly, there are lots of us Filipino modelers here! (I suppose that shouldn't be too much of a shock seing as there are quite a number of hobby shops in Manila in far flung locations...i.e.: SM southmall) sigman: I use Gunze Sangyo's Mr. Mark Softer (It's not really a setting solution, i think), to make decals conform better to surfaces, but it hasn't been working for me... The decals just keep peeling off anyway! Well, it could just be the crappy Academy Decals... I sometimes cheat and use a tiny drop of liquid cement to keep the things stuck to the plastic. Too much though, will melt the decal. I'm just planning to use a coat of clear for my current project (also so i can give it a wash and some weathering). Anyway, If you're interested, i bought it at Lil's Megamall... What are the rest of you using and where do you get it?

I agree with you Shrikes. Personally, I prefer Solvaset. They're available at Natalie's JN Hobby shop at Harrison. They work well with even the worst types of decals. I believe the key to great decaling is still preparation of the surface prior to attaching the decals. I'm not saying I'm good but I know this because I've ruined a lot of models by not preparing the surface. I tried Mr. Mark Softer but you're right, too much will destroy the decal. It takes some getting used to.

Jun

QUOTE: Originally posted by emaula Hello to all, especially the ipms- manila group. I think most of the members are now using this forum instead of our yahoo group. Noel, I'm new to this forum stuff ( my first post actually ). How do you place the ipms-manila banner on a post?

Don't really remember. Ask Noel. I think I copied it from our website then pasted it here

Wow. It looks like this thread will be here for a very very long time. Heck, verytime i visit this site the Communty area always has this thread updated.

STC does not carry them. Last I was at Lil's Megamall, they don't have the stuff either. Try Hobbies and Comics as Noel suggested.

Rico

Solvaset is the greatest thing for decals. But overusing it also can ruin things. The micro-sol / microset decals works well too and last I saw it, Hobbies and Comics at Makati Cinema has 'em. I got m Solvaset from the US. Our club has a pending order due to arrive this June.

Noel

emaula, I already heard about Micro Sol/Micro Set from this forum and i was wondering if this stuff is available in this country?

QUOTE: Originally posted by sigman I have heard a lot from this forum that modelers use some kind of setting solution for decals and I would like to ask if any of you guys/gals use any kind of solution and where did you buy it.

There are several kinds of setting solutions. One is the Micro Sol/Micro Set combination. One is use for enhancing adhesion of the decals to the model surface( forgot which one), the other makes the decals follow the contour of the model surface. This set is the one that smells like vinegar or silicon adhesive use in bonding glass. Recommended by most aftermarket decal makers for use on there products.Don't use it much as it is too pinicky.

Next is the Mr. Mark Softer by Gunze-Sangyo. It is a mild solution that soften the decals so that it follows the model's surface. I've been using it for a few years, and it works well with hasegawa kit decals and most aftermarket decals.Gunze has a new product called Mr. Mark Setter. Haven't tried it though. Both are available at any Special Toy Center branch.

The best stuff of course is Solvaset. This is what train modellers in the U.S. use for their decals. It's much stronger than Mr Mark Softer and takes a lot of practice and patience to get used to. But once you get the hang of it, It works wonders on your decals. It's not widely available here in the Philippines. Noel (our IPMS-Manila chapter contact) had some brought from the U.S. club members who want one. I don't know if there are extras. If you want one, I could possibly source out one for you.

You could also use white glue (Elmer's glue is the best stuff for this) diluted with water to augment the decals adhesiveness. Just wipe the excess off immediately as soon as the decal is dry.

I don't think Academy decals are crappy. Their a bit thin and short of adhesive but their great ( looks painted on ) after the application of Mr. Mark Softer or Solvaset. The trick to Academy decals is a glossy surface for them to be applied on

Hope this helps.

Got this from the other thread: i find it really interesting... hope you guys feel the same... an opportunity for modellers! says here that this will be on october... we've got time to prepare....

QUOTE: Originally posted by BigMan To update to those who dont know yet: The 2nd IPMS-Philippines BERT ANIDO Nationals Open will be on October 11-17,2004 @ the 2nd Floor Activity Center, Building A, SM Megamall. Entry Forms will be distributed on selected hobby shops before the month ends. We shall post the entry forms on our website www.ipmsphilippines.com shortly so that this can be downloaded. Kindly log on to our website regulary for updates on the Nationals. Cheers!

QUOTE: Originally posted by sigman I have heard a lot from this forum that modelers use some kind of setting solution for decals and I would like to ask if any of you guys/gals use any kind of solution and where did you buy it.

Haven't tried it myself but yes there is this what they call a decal setting solution. I've heard that vinegar works well too. But don't take my word for it if you want try to experiment first with something like a piece of decal that you don't need. Have fun.

Welcome to the FSM, emaula.


Shrikes,

Decals are a headache sometimes. I am glad I am doing mostly 1/35 armor now. I can handpaint most of the markings or airbrush them by masking because the markings are a bit bigger. I have tried Mr. Mark Softer but it didn't always work for me (or maybe because I am relatively still new at this, he-he-he). Anyway, I was at Comics and Hobbies yesterday and I saw the 1/72 B-17 there. Looks like a good one. Might get one for me one of these days.

QUOTE: Originally posted by sigman I have heard a lot from this forum that modelers use some kind of setting solution for decals and I would like to ask if any of you guys/gals use any kind of solution and where did you buy it.

Firstly, welcome to the Forums, echosierradelta and emaula!! Surprisingly, there are lots of us Filipino modelers here! (I suppose that shouldn't be too much of a shock seing as there are quite a number of hobby shops in Manila in far flung locations...i.e.: SM southmall)

sigman: I use Gunze Sangyo's Mr. Mark Softer (It's not really a setting solution, i think), to make decals conform better to surfaces, but it hasn't been working for me... The decals just keep peeling off anyway! Well, it could just be the crappy Academy Decals... I sometimes cheat and use a tiny drop of liquid cement to keep the things stuck to the plastic. Too much though, will melt the decal. I'm just planning to use a coat of clear for my current project (also so i can give it a wash and some weathering). Anyway, If you're interested, i bought it at Lil's Megamall... What are the rest of you using and where do you get it?