Striker8241

Hi, All,

I just finished my ECM antenna farm (see below). I wasn't able to find any closeup photos of the antennas on an operational aircraft, which is not surprising since the systems were classified and photography would not be allowed - the length and shape of an antenna would give a clue to the frequencies and purposes of the system.

It's been many years and my memory is not the best, but I don't ever remember replacing an antenna that was painted black (that doesn't mean there weren't any - I just dont remember seeing one). They were always an olive drab color or gray. Except for the scimitar antennas - we started getting some that were not painted but rather had an anodized coating that prevented corosion. These were a bronze or almost copper color, as depicted on the model. SEA aircraft had priority, and if an antenna was needed desperately, they would often be cannibalized from other aircraft, so it wasn't unusual to see antennas that were different colors or shades, or even white.

Pictures of the museum aircraft show the antennas painted the same as the aircraft, but this is purely for show, and for convenience.The actual antennas had a special paint that was designed not to interfere with radio signals, so they would never be painted to match the aircraft unless it was done by the manufacturer. Also, the panels, or "windows" on the blade antennas were never painted white or any other color as depicted on museum models. These panels were made of a honeycomb material similiar to fiberglass and were designed to protect the actual antenna elements. They were transparent to radio waves, much like glass is transparent to light waves. They were softer than the metal so they wore more easily, like the paint that was scoured off the aircraft wings and engine intakes. They became a lighter, almost honey color compared to the metal on the antenna.

Cheers,

Russ

 

Thanks for the all the great descriptions as well.

As we can all see in the photo above, that soft-yellowish bronzey looking semi-circular object just behind the antenna farm is a actually a tail-hook.

Yeah, the crews of battle-damaged BUFFs used it to make emergency landings on aircraft carriers

in the South China Sea..........errrr.....I have a rice paddy near Laos I can sell yah.......

Russ, all those vents and antennas make it look very realistc.

Not trying too cause you any additional grief here, but are you planning to do anything about that aft-starboard wheel spread situation?

Dom

Thanks, Cliff .

Russ: Nice work there on the antenna farm and that wrinkled skin looks better everytime I see it.

Dom: Gee whiz, I thought I'd worked with some clowns...

Hi, Ken, and thanks for the good words!  You are most welcome for the information - I figure I better put it down somewhere before I forget it entirely . As a matter of fact, I have a notebook I started for this plane and I do have a partial list of changes and additions I've made. Thanks for reminding me - I need to update it.

Cheers,

Russ

Hi Russ,

Thank you for the detailed information about the ECM antennas!  Very informative!  I am filing this away for future reference.  I appreciate the time you took to explain it in such detail.

And once again the detail you have added to your B-52 is just incredible.  I hope you are keeping a list of all the modifications you are making to this kit.  If you decide to take it to a contest, it would be handy.

Great job!

Ken

Hi, All,

I just finished my ECM antenna farm (see below). I wasn't able to find any closeup photos of the antennas on an operational aircraft, which is not surprising since the systems were classified and photography would not be allowed - the length and shape of an antenna would give a clue to the frequencies and purposes of the system.

It's been many years and my memory is not the best, but I don't ever remember replacing an antenna that was painted black (that doesn't mean there weren't any - I just dont remember seeing one). They were always an olive drab color or gray. Except for the scimitar antennas - we started getting some that were not painted but rather had an anodized coating that prevented corosion. These were a bronze or almost copper color (as depicted on the model). SEA aircraft had priority, and if an antenna was needed desperately, they would often be cannibalized from other aircraft, so it wasn't unusual to see antennas that were different colors or shades, or even white.

Some pictures of museum aircraft show the antennas painted the same as the aircraft, but this is purely for show, and for convenience. The actual antennas had a special paint that was designed not to interfere with radio signals (no lead or other metals), so antennas would never be painted to match the aircraft unless it was done by the manufacturer. The different colored "panels" on some antennas were made of a honeycomb material similiar to fiberglass and were designed to protect the actual antenna elements. They were transparent to radio waves, much like glass is transparent to light waves. They were softer than the metal so they wore more easily, like the paint that was scoured off the aircraft wings and engine intakes. They became a lighter, almost honey color or gray compared to the metal on the antenna.

Cheers,

Russ

Yikes! Not good! I guess that proves the old saying - "Beware fingerless Croats!"  lol!  On the other hand, I can see how not having fingers could lead to that kind of accident. The least he could have said was "Sorry!"

Russ

Striker8241

Hi, All,

Quick update - I finished the second B-4 stand with the platform raised about 3 feet. I decided to open the gunner's access hatch so this stand will go under it.

BTW, the handrails on these stands fit into sockets on the platform and could be removed to position the stand closer to the aircraft. I modeled this particular stand as an older version; later versions had 3-4" plates welded between the rail sockets. This helped prevent a technician accidentally knocking a part or tool, or even a whole toolbox, off the stand and possibly onto someone's head.

Cheers,

Russ

 

"and possibly onto someone's head."

I've had more jobs than I can count. I was working on a store interior re-model,

and I was working with a Croat guy named '********' whom had a lot of lost his fingers in the

'*******" war. He was replacing a 6 foot flourescent light system and dropped a 5 pound light ballast over my head, voluntarily, and then said to me "you have to watch out on a job site." It's Okay, this happens all the time""""

Against my adrenalin impulse to tip over his 12 foot ladder, I coolly decided to let him live, and immediately told my "boss" to take that ballast and store it safely in a warm, dark, moist, orifice......lol.....

i will never forget when that ballast whizzed past my eyes and smashed into the floor....

...errraaarAAARRFF!!!!

We needed cash so bad I just moved on......

There's nothing like knowing the guy(s) you are working with ha(ve)s your back.......

Dom

Thanks for the good words, Ken! . I used to watch Mail Call but I don't see it much any more.

Cheers,

Russ

Hi Russ,

Nice work once again.  Those stands look so realistic!

Btw, I just watched a re-run of "Mail Call" that highlighted the B-52.  They had some really great shots of the BUFF.

Ken

Hi, All,

Quick update - I finished the second B-4 stand with the platform raised about 3 feet. I decided to open the gunner's access hatch so this stand will go under it.

BTW, the handrails on these stands were designed to fit into sockets on the platform and could be removed to position the stand closer to the aircraft. I modeled this particular stand as an older version; later versions had 3-4" plates welded between the rail sockets. This helped prevent a technician accidentally knocking a part or tool, or even a whole toolbox, off the stand and possibly onto someone's head.

Inserted 7/21/19.

If you would like to build one of these B-4 stands, I have written a manual on how to do it. Please send me a Personal Message (PM) by clicking on my avatar and then clicking on the "Personal Message" button. I'll send you the manual in pdf format. NOTE: Any email addresses in the manual are no longer valid so please PM me for any inquiries.

Cheers,

Russ

Hello, Pampa, and thanks for the good words!   

I'm really embarassed to tell you about the paint - it's from a spray can available at most hardware stores . It's Krylon Fusion gloss black and it's designed to bond to plastic. Actually, it covers really well and provides a hard finish once it's dried thoroughly. It costs about $6 for a 12oz can and there is a pretty good range of colors available.

Cheers,

Russ

Once again, amazing work. I was wondering if you would share the type of paint you are using for the fuselage and the method for applying.  I find myself checking in every few days just to see what is new. Thanks so much.

Thanks, Duke!  The hardest part was getting useful measurements for each part but it would take too much space here to describe how I did it. I will try to put together some instructions with measurements that I can email to you later on, after I've finished the other two stands. This first one was a prototype - the last two should be a lot easier to document. BTW, they look fairly big in the photos but they are actually very small and delicate when you're handling them. Be sure you have a good pair of glasses!

Russ

Wow! I'd love to know how you made that maintenance stand! I'd love to have several of those myself!

Way to go guy!

Thanks for the good words, Guys!  It came out better than I thought it would .

Russ

Wow Russ, incredible detail!  Great scratch building!     

Ken

Striker8241

Hi, All,

Hope you're all having a great Christmas Day. I know I should be letting model building alone today but... I just had to finish this B-4 maintenance stand. So here it is .

Cheers,

Russ

You never fail to amaze!!!

fab maintenance cribs, i love the flooring!!!

Paint is going on very nicely!

is that guy with his hands up you???...lol

Really fantastic work, Russ!!!

Dom

Wynder (Beau) was kind enough to send me some shots of the nav radar antenna compartment on a B-52D at the Pima Air and Space Museum in Tucson, AZ (Thanks, Beau!). Two of these are shown below. There are three units shown in the upper left corner of the compartment that I need to add. These could be power supplies or possibly radar transmitters.The bulkhead insulation is another challenge but I don't know yet if I want to tackle that.

I've also added the one photo I found that shows the nav radar antenna installed.

Cheers,

Russ

Thanks, Pawel!

Russ

Hello! Ain't that a fiddly detail! Great work on this project and keep up this excellent work! Have a nice day

Paweł

Hi, All,

Hope you're all having a great Christmas Day. I know I should be letting model building alone today but... I just had to finish this B-4 maintenance stand. So here it is .

Cheers,

Russ

Hi, Beau. That would be great! Please post them here if you can - I'm sure others would be interested in them too.

Many thanks!

Russ

Russ,

When I was a volunteer at the Pima Air and Space Museum in Tucson, AZ, I took pictures of their B-52D 'Lone Star Lady' without her under-nose radome (it was removed for repairs). Could you use the pictures? The radar dish was removed, but the surrounding structures and details are still there. How can I forward them onto you if you want them?

-Beau

Thanks, Ken! I'm as anxious as you are .

Russ

Inserted 9/12/19

Adding the Drag Chute Tray

The B-52's massive wings were so far forward and had so much lift that the plane could not reduce landing speed by flaring like most aircraft. A drag chute was needed to slow it down enough so the brakes could be used without burning them up. The drag chute on the D-model was stored in a compartment in the bottom of the tail section, just forward of the gun turret, as show below. The drag chute tray was almost always extended while the aircraft was being turned around for it's next mission.

Determine how you are going to install the tray in the fuselage as this will determine the total height of the side and end panels. The simplest way is to glue one or more strips cross-wise up inside the fuselage and attach the tray to them.

1)      The drag chute tray door is already outlined on the model. Correct any distortions in the outline and cut out the door.

2)      The cut out door is 2 mm thick, which is too thick for the tray door so you will need to use it as a template and make a new door out of 0.5 mm thick sheet stock.

3)      Once the new door is cut out, bend it slightly to conform to the curvature of the bottom of the fuselage.

4)      Determine the length of the side and end panels so that the sharp angle in the front of the side panels will be about even with the door opening when the tray is installed, then cut out the side and end panels according to the dimensions below.

5)      Glue the end panel to the inside edges of the side panels.

6)      Glue the assembled panels to the inside of the tray door according to the dimensions shown above.

7)      Paint the side and end panels and the inside of the tray door green zinc chromate or olive drab.

8)      Glue the assembled tray up inside the fuselage.

9)      Construct the actuator arm from 0.5 mm/.020" plastic rod (Plastruct #90720) or equivalent as shown in the photo below. NOTE: The total length of the actuator arm will depend on the height of your side and end panels. The arm had a half-moon shaped kink in it near the door opening. Glue the long end of the arm to the door outside the side panel and the other end to the edge of the door opening.

10)      There was also a placard on the right side panel which probably contained safety instructions. You can replicate it as I did with a thin piece of paper cut 3 mm x 4 mm.

11)      Construct the actuator arm from 0.5 mm/.020" plastic rod (Plastruct #90720) or equivalent as shown in the photo below. NOTE: The total length of the actuator arm will depend on the height of your side and end panels. The arm had a half-moon shaped kink in it near the door opening. Glue the long end of the arm to the door outside the side panel and the other to the edge of the door opening.

12)      There was also a placard on the right side panel which probably contained safety instructions. You can replicate it as I did with a thin piece of paper cut 3 mm x 4 mm.

12)      Paint the outside of the chute compartment door to match the underside of the aircraft. The finished chute tray is shown below.

Nice work once again Russ!  You are to the point now you can see the light at the end of the tunnel.  I can't wait to see this when you put it all together!

Ken

Well, I took the plunge and did the first stage painting of the fuselage. Since I like to have my tires flattened, I didn't glue the wheels on. I built up the axels with super glue then sanded them so the wheels fit snuggly but still rotate. That way, I can be sure all of the tires are "flat" on the surface .

Cheers,

Russ

Thats one reason i never got to finish my first BUFF, no where to put the Dio. I did see one years ago where the guy could split the board in half so he could take it to shows and stuff. As soon as i get some room, i am going to get mine done as well. But really glad i didn't do it years ago or i would have missed these great ideas.

Lol, I don't know if I'd ever feel that froggy, sub. I'm already having to build the base for this one in the garage because it won't fit through the door of my house! .

Hmmmm... That does give an idea though...

If you are really feeling froggy, you could build a giant display with several aircraft of this caliber and donate to a museum. I bet the AF museum in Dayton, or the former SAC museum in Omaha, etc would LOVE something like this!