FW-190 Reich Defender III 5/10-2/11

stikpusher

Does anyone here have any links to any pics of a real FW-190A7 or A8 witht he R1 underwing gun pods? I can not seem to find a real pic of those outside a prototype. Only profiles or models.

I don't think you'll have much luck.  The R1 (initially referred to as U12) was used on some A-5's of JG 1 and JG 11 during 1943, with most of the photos coming from JG 11 aircraft.  By the time A-7 and A-8 were introduced large drag inducing gun pods were not popular with pilots due to swarms of Mustangs escorting the bombers.  I don't think I've ever come across a photo of an A-7/8 equipped with the R1 package.

Stumpjumper70

One last question - can anyone send me a link or a pic of a decent WWII-era 190 so I can see the pattern of weathering (I know it'll be B & W). Google is not helping!

Cheers all.

http://www.luftwaffephotos.com/

stikpusher

Does anyone here have any links to any pics of a real FW-190A7 or A8 witht he R1 underwing gun pods? I can not seem to find a real pic of those outside a prototype. Only profiles or models.

Hope this helps you out.

Stumpjumper this may help you out as well. The red markings is yellow instead of red.

Damon

thank you again for the nice reply on my the bottom of my fw-190d9 is comeing...Finally starting to put on the landing gear just have to mask them off as well... what is every one useing for RLM colors

on another note not to hijack this thread, but if anyone on here can help me out

/forums/t/130350.aspx

I managed to dust off this build and get back at it.

I added brake lines to and attached the landing gear, gave her a light panel wash, a flat coat and added the prop and spinner. I still need to add some small things like the antennas, exhaust and step but I'm putting that off until I'm almost finished. I need to touch up a few spots and then I get to tackle some weathering.

She's getting there!  If you look closely at the spinner decal, you can see where I creased it and couldn't get it to settle back down.

It's looking pretty good Jeremy. You should have sent the spinner of to Frank! Seriously though try a bit of touch up with some white paint. I did it on my decal and after the dullcoat when on you could not tell the difference between the paint and the decal.

Soulcrusher

Jeremy- outstanding, really looks good!

Jeremy--Nice work on the D-9.  That's a great shot of the LG!!    What was the technique for the brake line?

Dave--I see you're making steady progress.  The bird looks fantastic.

All--Got some paint on the D-13 today.  Except for weathering, the underside is done.  I am using Mr. Color for the first time as I am normally a Tamiya acrly cut with lacquer thinner user and I read the MC paints thinned nicely with lacquer thinner.  It worked like a charm with the natural metal but the with the colors I had webs form on the edges away from the nozzle and in some small spaces such as between the cowl flaps.  It was no big deal because the webs brushed off easily.   Did I thin too much?    Here is where I am:

Oh!  The prop is done too.

Oh larky lark. I'm back from my usual week at the shore, where I delved in wine, food and junk shops.

I tied up in a pipe shop to discuss the finer points of Macanudos versus Vera Cruzanos, to wit they all needed a try; amazing what a $ 20 can buy for an hour of pleasure, but I dissemble, and to make a quick cut to the chase, the owner had a "stash" of old models. Well, much was discussed, including the finer points of Hawk, Aurora, Lindbergh and the like, Geld crossed palm and your faithful correspondent came away with a couple of goodies in the game bag.

First of all this one, on my top five all time want list, and a bargain I say at $ 20.00.

Then this one, which all in all isn't all that swell, but she is well molded. Definitely has to go "Parrot" Squadron.

Jeremy, Clebode, very nice work guys!!!!! Looking forward to the weathering!!!

Bill that is a VERY nice score you have there!!!!!

Geez Jezza that spinner spiral is terrible, the crease puts it all wrong in my eye. I suggest you strip the lot (Plane an all) and respray!!! ....I know, and dont mention it.

Ah haa, Sir Billy of Bondo is back with stolen kits....$20 my ar$e, you plied the poor guy with rum, taught his daughter the finer points of hornswaggling, and then put a shot across his stash and made for the hills....We got your number Mister!!!

...Guy

Wow Bondo! That is a great find. A 1/32 Hein and a Dora. Guy is right I bet you smooht talked your way into that deal. Plus a littlle rum or mabye some if that fine Italiano vino! I have two of the old Fujimi Dora's in the stash. The have just a basic cockpit and a plug for the engine but the shape panel lines and rivet detail of this old kit are as good as anything offered out there today. It should build up nicely.

Soulcrusher

Thanks for the compliments everyone... even you too Guy!

Clebode - I like the green spinner on that bird!   I used a  pece of copper wire pulled out of some automotive wiring for the brake lines. Just bend, glue and paint!

Mr. Bondo - I didn't even realize you stepped out of small scale aircraft! Nice... do we get to see one of them built soon?   I love the box art on the 190! That was worth the coin right there!

Jeremy, I'm loving the paint job on your build.  Looks quite different than your usual fare. 

Clebode, I like the green spinner too.  You're a better man than me to attempt masking/painting one of them things. 

Bill, that is quite the score on the Tony.  Would love to see you build that one up. 

Someone was asking about the 1/24 kit on here .The main issue so far is the kit lgear,its made to work for some reason ,but the lower gear cover does not. Go figger . any way the whole plane sits on litttle springs and is quite unstable. I thought the best way to fix it was to install a slug of 1/8" alum. welding rod  .440" long into each leg. this makes it rigid. I also had to fill the gear cover bolts on the out side of  the cover. These covers were in my kit and are from the Airfix 1/24 I think ,they will werk but I need to relocate the bolts.I also put the rails on the sides of the covers ,this is the white plastic.My build has exposed bolt heads on the exterior of the cover.. Squadron green/Tenax mix for filler. The torque links were glued as well ,they are kinda sloppy Tryna get primer on these parts today.

Right, in the final throes of building this bird but had to take a break from adding the paint chips before I went blind..! My 'love' of decals has not improved after this!!

On a different note, anyone in the UK see Coast this week? It had footage of a 190 that landed in Wales in 1942. No-one knows for sure why the pilot landed there but it gave the allies their first close-up look at the 190 and they were able to put it in head to head tests with the Spitfire. Anyways, the footage (from 1942) shows the 190 in the air in RAF colours with the roundels. Just as I thought there couldn't be any more versions!!

jmabx - wow, that's looking amazing. Which build is it? Also, I have to ask what the secret is to getting the decals on and moulded to the panel lines? It's total amateur hour here when I try whereas you have achieved exactly what I am aspiring to.

......................

Jeremy- Very nice, ignore that luftwoller fella, he's just mad he isn't working on a 190 right now LOL.  I had to look very, very hard for the crease on the spiral.  I like it, well done!

Hugh- Ah,. yes... I love those half NMF/ half paint schemes, well done!  Any new pics?

Krow113- Looking good there!  I have to admit, I got the impression that you didn't want to post here in the GB anymore, so I removed your build from page 1.  I would happily add it again, would you like me to do that?

stumpjumper70- Not to step on Jeremy's toes here, but there are many choices for solutions that will pull those decals down into the panel lines.  Of course, just the brand of decal can impact how well they behave.  First, I use Micro Mark setting solution to apply the decals.  Put a brushful down on the surface where the decal will go, and after the decal has softened up I lay it into the pool of solution.  I wait for a while (anywhere between 2 minutes and 15 minutes) to let the decal soften up, then gently pat it down to the surface with a slightly damp cloth.  After the decal has had a while to adhere to the surface, it's time to pull them down into the lines.  One trick I always use is to take a brand new hobby blade, and lightly cut the decals along the panel lines.  That will help immensely to pull them down.  I will then use one of these solutions to really pull them down.  I use Micro Mark softening solution, Gunze Sangyo Mr. Softener, and Walthers Solvaset.  In extreme cases, I have even used a tiny bit of liquid plastic cement!  When using these more aggresive solutions, test it first on an extra decal to see how it responds.  Once you start using these, the decals will really adhere well to the surface of the model.  If you mess up, usually the only way to fix it is to rip them off with tape (along with some nearby paint) and start over.  I hope that helped, if there is anything else- just ask.

Krow, Stump, that is some excellent work guys!!!! Krow nice save with the alum. rod!! Stump, your decals look fine from here mate!!

Frank you have actually used liquid cement on decals before????!!!! That is a technique I haven't heard of before!!! I'm intrigued now. Did you use that only on the thickest ones that brush off any other setting solution when the decal film should actually be called sheet syrene lol??? Albeit very sparingly as well??

Thanks for your comments ,boys I would like to keep putting a pic in here every now and then. That will be your signal to go to my wip. Heres another of the ip guages ,using the Eduard kit as shown.I highly recommend this p/e set .As you can see the guages built up in 1.5 hours and look great ,they are a little grey here as I used Kristal Klear in layers to build up the lens.I am stoked at this ,I thought this would be a build-killer ,a decently skilled modeler could do this easily. I will let these set for a few days before putting them on the panel. You guys don' wanna miss that!

A layer of KK on the back then layer by layer ,pressure with a toothpick and squaring with tweezers to line them up.........I asembled them on the fret as I thought that would be orderly and Eduard layed the fret out to facilitate that approach,some are 3 layers and they are all 3 dimensional -Excellent!

simpilot34

Frank you have actually used liquid cement on decals before????!!!! That is a technique I haven't heard of before!!! I'm intrigued now. Did you use that only on the thickest ones that brush off any other setting solution when the decal film should actually be called sheet syrene lol??? Albeit very sparingly as well??

LOL, sure have!  Not for the faint of heart i tell you.  I was using a newer Aeromaster sheet for a BoB era 109, and no matter what decal solution I tried I simply could not get the decals to pull down into the panel lines.  I thought "why not?"  So, with a tiny brush, I put a drop onto the decal right over the panel line, and within a couple of minutes- the decal had pulled neatly into the line.  I gave the model an extra couple of days before a clear coat to make sure any loosened paint had re-cured.  Worked like a charm!

I'm calling this one done.  I haven't attached an antennae yet but not sure I want to attempt  attaching it to the clear canopy part.   Anyway, the pics...

Comments and suggestions always welcome.

Outstanding stuff Dave, love this one!  I must say, one of the coolest 190 schemes I have seen.  Awesome work man!

Must echo the boss, Dave, she's a total honey! Superb work that goes to show that 1:72 is a totally viable scale for detailed and attractive work that can be a total knockout!

Cheers, Mike/TB379

Thunderbolt379

Must echo the boss, Dave, she's a total honey! Superb work that goes to show that 1:72 is a totally viable scale for detailed and attractive work that can be a total knockout!

Cheers, Mike/TB379

It soitainly is!!!! Beautiful work Dave!!!! Hope mine in the same scale turns out half as nice!!!

Thanks for the tip on the very stubbornest stickers Frank!!!!

Dave,

Outstanding!  That Academy kit is not the greatest canvas to work on but you really got great results!

Looks great Dave! That is a real neat looking color scheme and I like the markings on the nose.

Soulcrusher

Excellent Dave, looks faultless from here, really the whole thing looks immaculate .

Jeremy I really like what your posting, look forward to seeing more.

Nice work stumpjumper. I use the micro set/sol combo on my decals and they seem to work well, as Frank said you can get quite a few different products so you should find something easily. I've not been watching this series of coast but it is a fantastic program, I've got series one on DVD, not even sure what series is showing now

Krow, nice steady progress and looking very good. Those bezels look fun

Good progress Hugh, glad you wrestled it all together. Did you use an Eduard mask or cut your own for the spinner?

Cheers...

Daywalker

Jeremy- Very nice, ignore that luftwoller fella, he's just mad he isn't working on a 190 right now LOL.  I had to look very, very hard for the crease on the spiral.  I like it, well done!

Hugh- Ah,. yes... I love those half NMF/ half paint schemes, well done!  Any new pics?

Krow113- Looking good there!  I have to admit, I got the impression that you didn't want to post here in the GB anymore, so I removed your build from page 1.  I would happily add it again, would you like me to do that?

stumpjumper70- Not to step on Jeremy's toes here, but there are many choices for solutions that will pull those decals down into the panel lines.  Of course, just the brand of decal can impact how well they behave.  First, I use Micro Mark setting solution to apply the decals.  Put a brushful down on the surface where the decal will go, and after the decal has softened up I lay it into the pool of solution.  I wait for a while (anywhere between 2 minutes and 15 minutes) to let the decal soften up, then gently pat it down to the surface with a slightly damp cloth.  After the decal has had a while to adhere to the surface, it's time to pull them down into the lines.  One trick I always use is to take a brand new hobby blade, and lightly cut the decals along the panel lines.  That will help immensely to pull them down.  I will then use one of these solutions to really pull them down.  I use Micro Mark softening solution, Gunze Sangyo Mr. Softener, and Walthers Solvaset.  In extreme cases, I have even used a tiny bit of liquid plastic cement!  When using these more aggresive solutions, test it first on an extra decal to see how it responds.  Once you start using these, the decals will really adhere well to the surface of the model.  If you mess up, usually the only way to fix it is to rip them off with tape (along with some nearby paint) and start over.  I hope that helped, if there is anything else- just ask.

Krow - what kit is this? My 1/48 build has given me an appetite for something bigger. Was thinking 1/32 but could be persuaded to 1/24.