FW-190 Reich Defender III 5/10-2/11

Spike 190,

Thanks for the link to the comparison chart, I recall one in a older issue of FSM yet my stash of previous issues is 3000 miles away!

Daywalker,

Thanks for the offer! German RLM74/75/76 factory-applied Werke Nummer

Once this single sided tracked thingy is finished I will get started on the F-8, the kitchen table only allows for 1 build at a time...Boy its going to be good to get a place with a spare room!

'All work and no play makes Johnny a dull boy' ~ BEFORE a few redrums

Soucrusher: I go for Yellow 1, as well. There is a lot going on with that scheme.

I'm still 3-4 weeks away from starting on my 190. I'm in way over my head on a Mauve P-40N, especially with all of the work and family commitments (which isn't a bad thing), but I have some warping and seam issues to deal with.

soulcrusher

I am leaning towards yellow 1 also Frank.  Lets take a vote. Which one of the 4 choices do the rest of you guys like?

                                                                                                                                Soulcrusher

I gotta go with Yellow 11 myself...that yellow-and-white tail band is pretty sweet, plus the yellow rudder, good camo scheme, etc. etc.

You guys rolling already got me pretty fired up - cracked into my 1/72 Hasegawa D9 a couple of nights ago. Spent the first few bits trying to mesh the kit instruction with the Verlinden "Super Set" instructions...despite my earlier thoughts that I'd be able to adapt the Verlinden stuff (made for an A8/F8) to this kit, it doesn't appear that it's going to be the case. Too many minor dimesional changes, as well as some big ones (obviously the front end). Think I'll have to shoot for picking up the right kit at some point to rip apart. This one is going to get built mostly OOB.

Started in on the 'pit, going to do some work to the seat (it's pretty bad). Looks like most everything else in there will be mostly invisible, but I'll do what I can to spruce it up some. The kit is designed to be able to close up the fuselage halves and then insert the cockpit - although they don't tell you that in the instructions. So I'll be able to paint both the 'pit, sidewalls, and siderails all in one session without worrying about having to glue painted parts later. Update pic as soon as I have one.

Whew! That was a lot of typing to say "I started"...

SC  I like either Red 1 or Yellow 11, more happening with the paint. Yellow 1 looks a bit to solid paintwise for me.

Dupes, looking forward to seeing pics!!

Golly I couldn't say. Maybe the best thing would be to build them all.

Maybe Yellow 11, It's all about business.

SC Our vote in this house goes to Red 1 .

Cheers...

Hey SC, My vote is for all 4!,

Just getting set to clean up the resin parts when I found two exhaust pipe ends broken off one of the manifold parts.  I hope we don't have a Jonah kit here.  See the photo.

Also, the pour stubs on the resin parts are massive.  I am going to have to start the cleanup with power tools.

Thanks to Soulcrusher for pointing me to a FSM review of the kit.  I emailed the guy in PA with AM resin parts in his catalogue but didn't get a response in 30 hours.  Jonah????

No problem Clebode. Like I was telling you these kits are definetely short run and will take some fussing but a 1/32 Ta-152 is going to look sweet when its done.

Man there are so many different vote for all 4 of the schemes! I am going to have to go back over all of the posts to add them all up to see which scheme is in the lead.

                                                                                                                         Soulcrusher

SuppressionFire

Daywalker,

Thanks for the offer! German RLM74/75/76 factory-applied Werke Nummer

OK, I have used this chart many times for mixing Tamiya paints to RLM colors:

IPMS Stockholm

The page you want is here.  Looking at their charts, 74 is about 70% XF-27 and 30% XF-19.  The 75 is about 50/50 XF-51 and XF-54.  The 76 is 60% XF-23 and 40% XF-2.  I mix my 76 about 50/50 XF-2 and XF-23, and the 74/75 are pretty close IIRC.  Give it a try and let me know what you think!

That's a bummer Clebode!! Hope you can get your replacements sorted!!

Frank, thanks for that link mate!! Put it on the fave list for future reference as the trip to the coalmine is soon, when I return will have a good perusal!!!

Put Mr surfacer 500 on the seams of my 262 and spent last night rubbing the 500 back with alchohol and Q-tips that way no sanding necessary and preserves surrounding detail. back in the trenches tonight, then a quick looksee prime to see how it worked and if another application is necessary.

Daywalker,

Thanks for the chart link, it is very comprehensive and easy to use. I like they show the colors as well. Being such custom colors I would dare to dream its time to put on the big boy pants and purchase a airbrush! Not promising anything yet, have been contemplating the idea in the depths of my mind for some time now...

SuppressionFire

Daywalker,

Thanks for the chart link, it is very comprehensive and easy to use. I like they show the colors as well. Being such custom colors I would dare to dream its time to put on the big boy pants and purchase a airbrush! Not promising anything yet, have been contemplating the idea in the depths of my mind for some time now...

 

I was wondering about that Suppression, knowing your preference for rattle cans....I've never seen RLM 74,75 and 76 in spray cans before....

Jason and Richie- Glad you liked that site, I use it for every model I build!  Very easy to use, and from I have seen pretty accurate too.

I have been working on my kit, and have the cockpit ready to install.  It is OOB except for the True Details resin seat, and once the fuselage is cleaned up I can put it in.

Where's Guy at?  Figured he would be finished by now and showing pics.

I spent alot of time on the pit tonight. There are alot of parts in this sucker includind alot of detail visible through the open wheel well area. Everything is painted up and weather so I should be able to do some glueing tomorrow night and post some pics.

Guy posted over at Swanny's about haveing some domestic type problems that were preventing him from working on his 190. I would sent him a PM to see whats up but he never reads his PM's anyway so I figure he will turn up sooner or later.

                                                                                                                            Soulcrusher

Has anyone had any experience with Lifecolor paints?  I just received the RLM 76, 82 and 83 for the Ta 152.  I bought their thinner too.  I am normally a Tamiya and Vallejo guy and lately have been thinning the Tamiyas with their lacquer thinner, a tip I read about in a recent FSM,  with great results on large surfaces.  Let me know if there are any,tips, issues or "secrets" for these LC acrylics. 

All right!  Clamped the hose from the shop vac in the Workmate and took the dremel to the massive excess resin on the kit parts.  Cleanup is done!!  Have the pit figured out and should have photos tomorrow.  Where is everyone tonight?  Going to glue some PE now.

Clebode- no experience with Lifecolor paint.

I found a 1/72 CMK resin upgrade set for the A hanging on a peg at the LHS. It has PE belts, pedals, panels and resin tub, seat, stick and that flat area behind the seat where the cat sleeps. Also two vac canopies. Pretty sweet considering I never much detail cockpits, and I wasn't looking for it. Now I just need an airplane model... None at the store (the A-3) so I guess I'll order one.

Clebode

Has anyone had any experience with Lifecolor paints?  I just received the RLM 76, 82 and 83 for the Ta 152.  I bought their thinner too.  I am normally a Tamiya and Vallejo guy and lately have been thinning the Tamiyas with their lacquer thinner, a tip I read about in a recent FSM,  with great results on large surfaces.  Let me know if there are any,tips, issues or "secrets" for these LC acrylics. 

Hey Clebode, I've been using the Lifecolor acrylics for a little while now, and I really like the way the paint flows thru the airbrush. I also use Vallejo, and have had problems with all of their green based colors. It seems the blue pigments seperate, requiring a mixing while painting to maintain color consistency. With the LC's I've not had that problem. I've been thinning my Lifecolor paints with non-chlorinated tap water(well water) and have not had any problems. I've also been mixing the LC's with the Vallejo with no problems. As for brush painting, I really can't say. The Vallejo paints are hard to beat in that category. If you have already been using acrylics then you already know that sealing them is crucial to a durable finish, but IMO the LC's are a bit more durable than the Vallejo's but no way near as tough as enamels.

 Hope this helps

 Mobious

Mobious,

Thanks for the response.  It raises my comfort level immensely.  I have never tried to airbrush Vallejos.  Use them for details and figures.  I am going to experiment with the lacquer thinner and the LCs to see what happens.

No pics to post (not really anything to look at), but I should have something good by Monday morning. Probably most of the assembly done, as well as some paintwork!

I wasn't intending to start anything for this GB until at least after I'd finished the 262 for RD2, however there are a few techniques I want to try on the 262, but rather than take a risk on a £45 kit, thought I'd go with a test subject first.

And this is what was sitting in the cupboard...

...not the world's best 190 kit, but with a bit of work.

So I cut sprue last night, and this is where I'm at this evening..

I ended up modifying the top of the fin, as Academy got it far too angular.

It's not perfect, but it's better than the kit.

I'll give it a coat of primer tomorrow, and then paint the pit.

Karl

Nice little prodject there Karl. It is always good to pull a nice little 1/72 fighter out and just have at it. They are nice and simple builds and you rarely ever get hung up on one.

                                                                                                                 Soulcrusher

As promised, I have photos of the pit and IP.  I have a little touch up to do on each but I am going to let them rest for a bit while I take a look at the fuselage fit.  It looks to be challenging.

I really liked the restraining straps for the rudder pedals.

Nothing too fancy with the IP.

Clebode- I saw a post by Jerry Rutman on another forum stating that a death in the family last week has slowed down his business to a standstill.  He's hoping to be up and running again very soon!  Just thought I would pass it along.

Looking good so far Clebode. The instument panel looks good. You will not be able to see much of it when its installed as it sits pretty far back in the cockpit. I should have some pictures to post tomorrow of the fuseale all closed up with the cockpit and rear engine compartment all finished up.

                                                                                                                                Soulcrusher

Soulcrusher,

Thanks for taking a look.  I am looking forward to your photos tomorrow.  You have been a big help keeping me from going nuts with the PCM Ta 152.  This is the first kit that presens with only basic engineering that I have tried to tackle.  I have never faced a fuselage with no locating posts before.  And its a pretty big tube.  I am taking my time.

Frank,

I have heard from Jerry Rutman and have an order in.  He has been very responsive.  You mentioned another forum.  What other forums are places I should check out?

No problem. I have build many short run kits and they do try your patience. You can not go at it like a Tamiya kit where you can expect to complete whole steps in one night. Progress with short run kits is measured in weeks not days like alot of the easier kits.  I think when you build these kits they really improve your skills because they force you to find solutions and use all of your skills to build them. Take you time with it is the best advice I can give you with a short run kit. One trick you can use for the absence of locating pins on the fuselage is to glue small tabs of thin scrap styrene to the inside of the fuselage and leave then sticking out about 3mm past the edge. Add them to the top and bottom of the fuselage where they do not interfere with the cockpit or engine plug. This will keep the fuselage halves from shifting up or down while you are glueing them together.

Frank no progress pics?

                                                                                                                            Soulcrusher

Clebode- Jerry is a regular here, and he can be found there quite a bit.  Hope it helps!

soulcrusher

Frank no progress pics?

                                                                                                                            Soulcrusher

 

I actually posted some a couple of days ago, but I think some missed them.

Great progress everybody!!!! Beautiful work!!! Karl thanks for the heads up on the vertical stab being too angular!!! Will have to tone mine down as well when I get to it.