Wabashwheels
I assume scratch building is OK. What about aftermarket? Limitations or none at all? Decals. I'd hate to waste a lot of good time only to paint it up with old brittle decals. Rick.
Aftermarket parts, within reason, are ok too, as well decals... Seat-belts and the hardware, wheels/tires, vac-formed canopies, foil chrome strips, stuff like that... The main focus of the build is to show the folks who "poo-poo" Monogram kits what can be acheived with these classic babies, so "AM accordingly".... Only thing about after-market parts is that major components, like wings, fuselages, car-bodies, tank hulls/turrets, ship hulls, etc., should be the original kit parts, and vacuform or resin upgrades should be kept to a minimum- ie:, no PB4Y-2 vac-form sets to turn the B-24 into a Privateer, or turning the B-29 into a B-50... Kit-bashing is ok though, provided both kits are Monogram, like adding the dual .50-cal turret from the Monogram M16 half-track to the M34 2 1/2 truck-bed for a Vietnam-era Gun-truck...
Personally, I'd prefer to see as much scratch-building, or "Creative Gizmology / Imagineering", as possible, but I realize that not everyone is inclined towards that type of detailing, being more comfortable with after-market stuff.. And that's perfectly fine, just don't go to the point where there are more AM parts than Monogram parts... We wanna build with the cost in mind as well.. Turning a 12-16.00 kit into a 50-80.00 dollar kit defeats the purpose... I'd say that, as a basic guide-line, if the cost of your after-market part ideas equal or exceed the cost of the kit, you may want to re-think it...
Decals are another story... I have no idea what the average cost of decal set are these days, so any amount is ok... However, if you elect to use kit decals, might I suggest that, on the older kits, you use a couple of squirts from a can of Testor's Decal Bonder... That stuff has saved many a set of old kit decals for me, and I swear by it...
It's designed to be used on homemade ink-jet-printed decals, and works well on old kit ones too.. It has more "flex" than using any clear laquer or enamel or the like, works with some decal setting-solutions too, especially Testor's decal-set, as well as Solvaset, and my personal favorite, plain ol' white vinegar....
Just keep in mind that puts a clear film over the entire sheet, so you have to trim very close to the color...
The old war of raised verses recessed panel lines...... to me, a life-long Chrysler auto technician (or Mopar guy).... is as immature as the "My Camaro is better than your Mustang" argument.
If you have a kit with recessed lines in the majority (not counting control surfaces), it's pretty likely you even aren't building a Monogram kit..