DoogsATX: cheers mate.  What's a D-30?  (Sorry for my ignorance).

As for markings...undecided as yet.  I think the kit comes with 3 different options, i'll have to decide soon though, as it affects some of the painting, esp the anti-glare panel if i'm not mistaken.

Will let you know as soon as i do

CML: Sharp job on the cockpit -I agree that the instrument panel came out great with the decal.

If I may answer for Doogs I think what he means is to build the P-47M as a P-47D-30. So many P-47Ds were built block numbers were assigned ie P-47D-20, P-47D-25, P-47D-40. I've a book that lists different block numbers and how they differed- I'm sure you can find something on-line as well.

CML -  Very nice cockpit indeed. No worries there, as your not alone here as an NMF newbie. I'm there with ya.

                                                           Joe

Gamera

If I may answer for Doogs I think what he means is to build the P-47M as a P-47D-30. So many P-47Ds were built block numbers were assigned ie P-47D-20, P-47D-25, P-47D-40. I've a book that lists different block numbers and how they differed- I'm sure you can find something on-line as well.

Exactly. The P-47D encompassed so many changes that, if it were another aircraft, it'd probably have been called at least the P-47D, P-47E, and P-47F. Instead it got block numbers.

The P-47D-20 and everything below it are Razorbacks.

The P-47D-25 is the early bubbletop and is what's represented by the Tamiya kit. 

Starting with the P-47D-30 (or maybe D-28) they started bolting on a tail fillet to improve stability. Various other changes like the cockpit floor (stopped being corrugated) and propeller types changed here and there, too. The Tamiya P-47M comes with the filleted tail, and all Hasegawa Jugs, as I understand, have the fillet as its own piece, but for some reason Tamiya only supplies parts to build a D-25. 

One thing I'll be doing in the future is swapping tails between the two kits to build a D-30, and a very early, filletless P-47M:

Hey guys, great work all around. I need to pick your collective brains. I am in the painting phase of "Chautauqua" and I am getting ready to do the antiglare panels. Most people who have done this plane have done it in olive drab, but Norris Graser has noted that this AC had flat black panels. My question is: what is correct? I really like the idea of flat black, but I do like to be correct on these things. I also have found out the blue triangles on the yellow background were only used on the vertical stabs, not the horizontals. Any help would be appreciated!

Von Sisco

Hey guys, great work all around. I need to pick your collective brains. I am in the painting phase of "Chautauqua" and I am getting ready to do the antiglare panels. Most people who have done this plane have done it in olive drab, but Norris Graser has noted that this AC had flat black panels. My question is: what is correct? I really like the idea of flat black, but I do like to be correct on these things. I also have found out the blue triangles on the yellow background were only used on the vertical stabs, not the horizontals. Any help would be appreciated!

Hey Ed. Here's a link I found where some guys were asking some of the same questions. It does 'look' like black would be the correct color. I have seen several pictures of other jugs where the antiglare was black.

CML - Good job on your cockpit. It looks nice.

Doogs, Gamera, etc.. Interesting discussion re: various jug models. The Hasegawa 1/32 kit comes with the fillet, which I take it could be used to model a -30. What else is interesting is the kit also has an "M" prop, with wider paddle blades. I wonder if very late -40's had this prop, and fillet, just not the distinctly different accesory section/engine? It looks like the Hassie kit is "oh so close" to being able to use as an "M", with perhaps an AM engine set?

panzerpilot

CML - Good job on your cockpit. It looks nice.

Doogs, Gamera, etc.. Interesting discussion re: various jug models. The Hasegawa 1/32 kit comes with the fillet, which I take it could be used to model a -30. What else is interesting is the kit also has an "M" prop, with wider paddle blades. I wonder if very late -40's had this prop, and fillet, just not the distinctly different accesory section/engine? It looks like the Hassie kit is "oh so close" to being able to use as an "M", with perhaps an AM engine set?

I know there's a lot of variety in what props the different P-47s actually used - you almost need to go aircraft by aircraft.

As for aftermarket engine...Vector's got ya covered:

http://ultracast.ca/products/Vector/32%20Scale/32-002/default.htm

Gamera, Joe Rix, Doogs ATX & Panzerpilot: thanks for the compliments!  Just wish i had a better camera on me for some decent shots.

Aiming to get the wheel wells and inner cowling painted tonight.  Didn't have any yellow green (XF-4) and thought i'd make my own using chromate green and insignia yellow.

Unfortunately, i put the green in first and kept trying to add more and more yellow, until i ran out of yellow and realised it was still too green

Have now bit the bullet and bought and equivalent to XF-4.

I see now what you mean by the D-30.  I had a look online and think i know what you're talking about - it's the part just before the vertical stabilizer, right?

From what i read, i understand initial Bubbletops didn't have the fillet, which resulted in poor stability, hence the reason for the variation.

One question though - the P-47M doesn't look like it has the fillet, correct?  If so - how did they get around the stability issue which was found in the D-28?

One other thing:

Does anybody know much about Humbrol Metal Cote Buffing Metalizers?

I was going to try their polished aluminium on this build, but i'm not too sure how to handle them.

My queries are:

1. how sensitive are they?  can i mask directly over them, or once they're on, should i never touch the model again?

2. what should i use to buff them and how?  Also, what does this actually do?

3. I've seen MM make a metalizer sealer - would this be ok to use for Humbrol (i'm hoping it will be, as i can't find one made by Humbrol); and

4. If i do use the sealer, then can i mask/touch them?

I'll be posting this in the Airbrushing and Painting Forum too, but thought some of you guys here would have experience with them.

Most -Ms had the fillet - Schilling's is actually rather unique in that it didn't. It was also the first one delivered to the 56th (CO's perk I guess). Given that he flew a D-25 prior, maybe he preferred the handling without and had it removed....

Nice powerplant reference, Doogs. Thanks.

Quote, from CML:

"From what i read, i understand initial Bubbletops didn't have the fillet, which resulted in poor stability, hence the reason for the variation.

One question though - the P-47M doesn't look like it has the fillet, correct?  If so - how did they get around the stability issue which was found in the D-28?"

Yes, intitial bubble tops did not have the fillet. The plane wallowed a bit, (from what I have read, especially in a dive) as airflow from the new bubbletop canopies was different than the razorback. The fillet also, in effect, acted as a yaw damper to slow prop wash over the left side of the fuselage (think corkscrew).

Some early M's did not have the fillet. The later ones came from the factory with them.

Tom- Thanks for the help. I am going to go with the flat black, right or wrong. Like you said, it's hard to tell from the photographs that are available of the AC. The guys that painted these birds probably didn't think too much about preserving history for us model builders, so a little "artistic license" will have to be allowed.

I will try to post up some pics tonight, it has just been way crazy with my sons' baseball practice, work and such. I was able to have a block of time this weekend uninterrupted and got Chautauqua painted as well as doing some paint work on Ms. Second Front. 

Thanks again, Tom.

YW, Ed. True about the "artistic license".

They had certain regulations they were supposed to cohere to, back then. However, common sense and operational nesessity took over at times. ie "We're outta OD" Well, go "borrow" some black from X squadron!" Take the "M" model, for example. They seemed to just paint them however they felt they needed to, using british paint stock in many cases.

I like to be historically accurate as much as the next guy. However, in cases where there is just not enough reference, no proof, etc. of certain colors then who's to say who is right and wrong? An upcoming P-47 build I have in mind. Blue wing tips to match the nose? No pictures...besides it'll look nice!

Looking forward to your pics...

Chris: Sorry, never used Humbrol so I have no idea how well they work. I have used MM sealer over Alclad as a final step to protect the decals and it works pretty well. Not sure how sensitive it is, you might want to touch any masking tape to your hand a few times to remove some the stickiness before you apply it to the model though.

Ed: Looking forward to those, I remember they have some spectacular nose-art  

I agree Gamera, quite stunning eye candy on both! "Chautauqua" is the first AC I think of when talking about the P-47, it is just a cool piece.

Alllllrighty....here goes. First off I don't have internet yet at my new place so that's why progress pics weren't posted as they occurred. Secondly....to those who were wondering what could be done with a Lindy P-47...save your time and effort. This kit wanted to give me grey hairs long before I should have grey hair lol. The entire kit is cast in white plastic...so every part except the rockets needed to be painted. I was going to attempt an olive drab - invasion stripe look but I decided to do it exactly like on the box. This kit did not even come with a cockpit...all it was...was a flat piece of plastic bent at an angle for the pilot figure to sit on...no gauge panels no anything. Very cheaply made kit. Combine that with my raw amateur modeling skills and you see the results..

As you can see, the landing gear was pretty much a joke...the gear compartments weren't even cut open into the wing...just a hole to put the main gear in. Also...I hand paint all my models...I do not own an airbrush although thats an investment I may make in the future. So I apologize for the substandard paintjob. The saving grace in all this was Future....if it wasnt for that the decals never would have set on the plane correctly at all. Soooo anyway...2nd build in 7 years...hopefully the next time there's a P-47 build I'll get a Revell or something and actually get it to look good lol. 

Hey WVP51guy:

Pretty cool! N model !

Hey guys. Not trying to spam this thread with photos, but I finally made it over to "Michael's" and got a few fancy boards to use for pics! They also have a decent model collection there, along with a pretty good collection of the small testors paints and some other supplies.

Gamera: thanks for the tip.  I think de-tacking the tape is probably the way to go.

Another thought is to paint, buff, seal with MM, then go back and do my normal decal and weathering processes.  Looks like using buffing metalizers might add another step or two to my normal processes.

If i get lazy, i'll probably just opt for non-buffing metallic colours.

WVP51 - Given what you had to work with I am very impressed with your efforts. Really an oustanding job.  Do not dwell on any shortcomings you perceive in your build but rather celebrate and build on the successes.

 That Vector engine is way nice. Even more detailed than the Quickboost that I have. I can see though that installing that would take some healthy surgery and scratchbuilding.

 Currently I am making progress on my engine. I opted to work on the kit engine and got it cleaned up fairly well and am now working on wiring up an ignition harness. Another first for me.

                                                 Joe

WVP51guy- I agree with what Joe said. I have looked at that kit and you have done an admirable job on an inferior kit. I am partial to the yellow tail Jugs, nice work.

As I had stated in an earlier post, I had the opportunity to have a weekend to work on my double build and I took full advantage of it. As a result, I didn't take a great deal of in progress photos. Most of us on here know about cockpit assembly and such, so I didn't sweat it too bad. Both of these R-M kits went together very easily, but boy is it a history lesson! The 1967 molded Razorback is very basic with few parts or add-ons. The newer issue Bubbletop is a very nice kit, sharp details and very well done. Good parts count, too. Let's take a look at "Ms. Second Front first:

As you can see, she is all buttoned up and paint is well under way. The undersides were done in Testors Intermediate Gray, and all of the pre-masking for the invasion stripes was done in Tamiya Pure White. Shading was done with Tamiya Flat Black and German Gray.

Started the checkerboard on the cowl as well.

Now, on to "Chautauqua"

Hopefully you can see some of the shading underneath the Tamiya AS-12, it really shows in person. I used Tamiya TS-16 Yellow for the tail and bars, and Krylon flat black for the antiglare panel.

Testors One Coat Clear was used after painting. I really dig the black panel, when decaled up it should look really tough! This one almost literally fell together, minor seam sanding and fit was dead on. I can't say as much for the Razorback.

And here is a shot of the girls together. As you can see, it was a productive weekend. Good thing too, cuz it looks like I might be at the ballpark all of this weekend coming up! Thanks for checking 'em out!

WVP51: Nice job on making a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Even as a kid I didn't like the Lindberg kits. Nice clean job you did with her.

Tom: NP, always happy to look at a model that good.

Ed: Sharp! Looking forward to seeing the paint scheme come together.

Well, had to sand down the cowling and tail of '2 Big & 2 Heavy' about three times to get rid of all the cracked paint but now the yellow trim is done. Crossing my fingers I can get the anti-glare panels masked and sprayed without messing up anything else.

Thanks Gamera.

Hey Ed. Both are looking nice. All these N's coming down the line are making me want to log onto Spruebrothers! Nice pre-shade you got going on the Razorback. That's gonna be a nice one!!

Thanks Gamera.

Thank you too, Tom. Definitely get an N, I really can't say any negative things about the three kits I have purchased (Academy, Tamiya and Revell) because they are all so well engineered. The N has alot of cool Pacific theater markings to do as well. The Razorback is really trying my paint skills with all of the stripes and checkerboards, etc but is coming along nicely. Will be worth the effort.

So i had some time on my hands today and i thought id start on decaling my pro modeler N. i chose "drinkin sister" trimmed in blue. the decals immediatly broke apart. so out came the clear coat. after drying, i started cutting and applying each decal. turned out ok- but some of the nat. insigina chipped around the edges.  pics soon to show progress.

A quick update.  I managed to remove the mess of the failed decals and repainted the affected area.  Now she's reglossed and will attempt to re decal.  I got some Aeromaster replacement decals.

Satch

90% done on the 109g-10. once im done it's jug time. 

Wow, i seriously doubt i could finish up that Lidbergh kit like that. I admire the skill displayed and the model with it's yellow tail is very eyecatchy Great work

As for me, i finished initial painting on my french thunderbolt. Shot an all over neutral grey, then puttied it for a top coat of revell's OD. Tried to post shade too, adding a few drops of white to the original paint but i kinda overdid the misting on of another layer of OD to blend... Theres a slight hint of it visible on the picture:

After this cured i shot a coat of future and let that sit for a day. Last night i shot the yellow using airbrush ready enamel from revell.

After i did some touch up here and there (the masking edges on the yellow bother me a little) i will decal it and go for the finish line assembly work. Hope you guys like her

Richard

thats great satch, glad you got it figured out.

kermit your 47 is lookin real good! cant wait to see it all dolled up