Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

FlyItLikeYouStoleIt

Another view of the radial halves, painted and partially assembled:

If I was only building the engine as a complete model, I would add more detail (oil lines, ignition wires, .....), but I think I'm satisfied for now. However, I'm not going to assemble the engine further til I get some tips on getting those intake pipes to all line up with their target cylinder. Any ideas?

Bill the only thing Ive ever been able to do is place the exhaust tubes in place as near as possible and heat with a hair dryer to geltly bend into position, glue one at a time if need be. =OR= cut them off and reglue into position. They're fun ,right?

Doug (RR)

Another view of the radial halves, painted and partially assembled:

If I was only building the engine as a complete model, I would add more detail (oil lines, ignition wires, .....), but I think I'm satisfied for now. However, I'm not going to assemble the engine further til I get some tips on getting those intake pipes to all line up with their target cylinder. Any ideas?

Interesting method on those engine cylinders Bill, I think they look pretty good!!

FlyItLikeYouStoleIt

Rigid, thread for cutting? Huh, who woulda thunk it. Makes complete sense though. I will definitely be trying that as I hope to re-position my rudder on this build.

I've made a little progress on my build. After resolving the "ring" mystery, I proceeded with more engine painting/assembly. I tried one of my own home spun methods of replicating a gunky engine that also has shiny parts. Bear with me cuz yer gonna think I'm off.

I started by spray painting my radial halves with white primer, keeping in mind that I'll follow with some brush painting of chrome and flat black on cylinder heads and fan etc...

On with the chrome and flat black and a little dry brushing of silver on the fan assembly.Rear of engine sprayed flat olive...

and then I finished the radial halves with a heavy wash of thinned acrylic black mixed with a little brown and a glob of flat base. The black settled nicely into the recesses, leaving the white showing only on the raised areas. Some wiping was needed to reveal more of the silver and white in some areas. Also gave the rear engine part the same wash

Ok, that said, now what tricks are there to get that damn intake monster aligned with the holes on each cylinder body? I left the 2 radial halves separate for now, as evident in above pic, until I talked to you guys. I'm tempted to just cut off the little alignment nubs from each intake, which are just getting in the way, and let the tubes go where they will and call it good enough.

Those are coming along nicely.

FlyItLikeYouStoleIt

Look how impressed these guys are with my progress:

However, I think these need some work on the panel lines and maybe some dirt on the under carriage.

Rigid, thread for cutting? Huh, who woulda thunk it. Makes complete sense though. I will definitely be trying that as I hope to re-position my rudder on this build.

I've made a little progress on my build. After resolving the "ring" mystery, I proceeded with more engine painting/assembly. I tried one of my own home spun methods of replicating a gunky engine that also has shiny parts. Bear with me cuz yer gonna think I'm off.

I started by spray painting my radial halves with white primer, keeping in mind that I'll follow with some brush painting of chrome and flat black on cylinder heads and fan etc...

On with the chrome and flat black and a little dry brushing of silver on the fan assembly.Rear of engine sprayed flat olive...

and then I finished the radial halves with a heavy wash of thinned acrylic black mixed with a little brown and a glob of flat base. The black settled nicely into the recesses, leaving the white showing only on the raised areas. Some wiping was needed to reveal more of the silver and white in some areas. Also gave the rear engine part the same wash

Ok, that said, now what tricks are there to get that damn intake monster aligned with the holes on each cylinder body? I left the 2 radial halves separate for now, as evident in above pic, until I talked to you guys. I'm tempted to just cut off the little alignment nubs from each intake, which are just getting in the way, and let the tubes go where they will and call it good enough.

Look how impressed these guys are with my progress:

Doug, more butcher birds?? Can't wait to see what you come up with. Nice build, man you're just cranking them out.

Reasoned- The A-3 looks good. Keep up the mottle practice. It doesn't take long to get the hang of.

Clemens- I haven't built that kit but I did build Dragons -H version. Its a nice kit but a little fiddly on the wings and landing gear construction, and the instructions are poor, but nothing too bad. The detail is real nice for a 1980s mold. Sounds like you figured it out. Dragon had already kitted a D-9 and the -H version, so they use those parts and just molded a new nose, as the Jumo 213 has a different cowling and supercharger intake on the opposite side.There is a Hobbyboss 1/48 kit in the C version that is a newer tool without any hacking involved if you are interested.

Jester I remember that HS 129 build but forgot about that canopy magic you did. Nice work.

Man there's some good information being put out here! I'm definitely going to use the thread trick.

Doug......can't wait to see another fine build outta you. You are just belting them out!

I gotta tell you, even though the "H" gives you the option of siphon vs gravity cup, I couldn't imagine (unless I had A LOT of paint to shoot) ever using the siphon.  It's so much easier thinning/adding etc the paint in the cup.

makes sense, defiantly got to be worth a try.

  Hey Bish, Personally, I find that saws are too coarse and can break parts, flex, and wander on the piece if not very attentive. I mainly use saws for resil and metal parts. I just find that I have a nicer cut and more contro; with the thread method. Thread requires friction to cut and saw blades have to be forced to cut. Just my opinions.

  Jester, indeed a nice job on the window! very clean and straight. Well done! The 129 looks great too.

 Reasoned, You sir have the workhorse of the Paasche line. The H is a good ole air brush. As you said though a bear to clean! My first airbrush ever was a Badger 350, Still have it, I've over the years now learned to appreciate the gravity feed air brushes, very versatile and easy to maintain. Still love the old H though,

Doug

Nice tip on using the thread to cut with, will have to remember that. I can see the advantage of it on something like the window Eric did (nice job by the way) but why is this preferably to using a saw.

I will totaly second the use of thread to cut with. I used it on my Hs129 to cut the pilots window out and install the sliding portion in the slid back position and it worked wonderfully!

OH and one other thing... It works beautifly for cutting covers and hatch accesses. just drill a small starter hole , insert thread through hole and cut away! leaves a nice clean opening with minimal dressing!

Doug

  Works like a dream my friend, I was shown the way of doing this about 20 years ago by a now departed friend who IMO was one of the best at our hobby. Its hard to get into techniques and you just have to practice. I've found by holding your hands at a flatter angle that you cut slower but are more accurate in 90 deg dir changes etc... Its all practice and experamentation. the thread I use is higher in cotton content and would likely be considered for sewing such things as leather and heavier material like denem. I've also used lighter thread for smaller items to produce a finer cut. Just try to stick to a mainly cotton thread. it cuts longer and cleaner then polyesters.

Take care...

Doug (RR)

That's some really good stuff there Doug. I have seen Fermis use that technique. I have yet to practice with it although I always keep it in mind when I'm ready to cut the rudder and flaps on a build.

Ok, I'm in with the Ta 152C-0 then.

Thank you for the help, Doug!

Cheers, Clemens

,   Morning Clemens... Gotcha now, It looks like they have used an available D-9  fuselage and just added a TA nose instead of going the very expensive way of making a new die to accomadate the longer nose TA.I think(not that familiar with the TA) the D 9,11 and 13 versions used the Junkers Jumo 210, engine and the Ta used the 213 version.Not sure about the short wings, and didn't they also have a slightly longer "plug" in the tail section? Any way...

  If you decide to be brave and cut... No big deal. Get your self some good heavy thread (preferably cotton) score a line where directed in instructions (inside fuselage) with a good sharp #11 blade. You can make several cuts but dont cut through, this line serves as a guide, Take a length of thread and wrap around both index fingers and (after securing piece to be cut) start making a sawing motion on piece with thread,as friction increases the thread will begin cutting into plastic and follow scribed line. While making your cut, your thread will be "V"shaped, in otherwords, your hands will be slightly apart " about 6 in." and slightly below where your cutting so thread looks like an inverted V.  Make sure not to use too much pressure (Thread will break) and use a length of thread long enough to pull approx 4 inches of back and forth travel. Too long a pull and the cut may begin to wander off line and too short and the thread will clog up and break easily. Practice first, and take your time and your cut will be clean abd straight, You will see what I mean when you begin on a scrap piece. Too slow and you get a tough cut, to fast and the thread will break and cut unevenly, Practice and you may find you like this method. I cut all sorts of things from rudders, wing flaps,canopys... you name it.

  Hope this helps, Be brave, looking forward to your progress pics!

Doug (RR)

I'm sorry, if my problem wasn't clear from the first post.

I'll try to explain it again (with pictures!)

The problem I have with this kit is that it seems to be one of dragons classic kit-bashing solutions:

I'm not that familiar with the FW 190 and the TA 152, but I think the used a kit of another TA or FW version and just put the parts you need to make the other version in the box:

In short: You have to cut the whole nose section off the fuselage and glue a new nose on:

As for the plane I want to build:

I really like the Ta152 with the short wings, but I have no problem at all building a FW190-D9 (I'm thinking of the Eduard Profi-Pack here), if you say it's too risky trying to cut the dragon kit apart. I like the D-13 too btw.

Clemens

Thanks for the info fellas, will do a little playing around w/AB (it's a Paasche H btw) and different needle/psi settings.  As you may tell, I like using the AB (mostly) but hate to clean it.  Got all the decals on, in the home stretch!

Clemens, if you don't have much experience w/building models (and want no headaches), I might suggest the same kit I'm working on, 1/48 Tamiya FW 190A-3.  It really is the definition of a shake and build.  Between it and their A6M2 Zero, best fitting kits I've built.

Reasoned - You can indeed turn up the psi on enamels for less splatter. I've practiced with it ever since I read a very recent article in FSM on this very technique. Although i have yet to actually apply it to a model.

Clemens - I too am curious about the replacement nose. Is it that they didn't get the front accurate on the original mold and thus have supplied a corrected one?

Reasoned... Cranking up the pressure causes a greater atomization and actually less spattering, just play with the mixture and like mustang said either needle down the flow of paint to the tip or limit the trigger travel to just barely allow paint to flow, and practice,practice,practice!. Not knowing what type of gun you have, its hard to say. On siphon guns pressure up will improve paint flow, but they're not as versatile as gravity fed guns.

Clemens... What are you trying to do to the kit? Not sure if your going TA152 or you mentioned D9*, I have a great way of making smooth even cuts I can help you with. Can you illustrate what your trying to do?

Tony, Good to hear from you, its been awhile, and Mustang, I aint goin nowhere!(ha) Planning my next 190 now...

And to all my other modeling friends here... You are too kind! Your words are very much appreciated and I cant think of a better group to be here building with, lots of good stuff going on here! Thank you all so very much.

Doug (RR)

Hey, Guys!

I went to my local hobby shop today to get me some paints for my Airacobra and picked something else up for this GB:

When I looked at the instructions back at home, I saw a little "problem" with the construction of this bird: You have to cut off the entire nose of it and replace it with a new one supplied in the kit. Otherwise the kit seems pretty nice.

I have never done anything like this and don't have much experience in building plastic models, so here's my question:

Should I risk it (with your help only, of course) or should I leave this kit alone? Returning it wont be a problem, as me and the owner of the shop are friends and he is a really nice guy... I could order one of Eduard's FW190-Ds instead...

What do ya think?

Clemens

Reasoned

 I would think the higher pressure would cause the paint to splatter and run. 

Huh? I would have never thought to crank "up" the psi, everything I've read says to dial it down w/thinned paint.  I would think the higher pressure would cause the paint to splatter and run.  I suppose you all are using acrylics vs my enamels?  I'm to afraid to reshoot the base so I'm putting decals on now and will perhaps see what happens with my wash, thanks again for all the great info (that's why I'm here! ).

Doug, Fantastic finish! You have done superb justice to the paint job all the way to the detailing. Really an overall excellent effort. Thank You for being a part of the GB as it has been an absolute pleasure to see your work. I do hope you stick around.

Reasoned, as Joe and I are fond of saying, "It's not in the mistake, it's all in the recovery." So, I have confidence that you will pull off on outstanding mottling effect. Thanks for sharing your efforts as that's what we learn from around here.

Doug, that's a beautiful 190 dude.   She really looks great!

Gary

Man Doug! You really knocked that one out of the park! Just looooooooove those opened up cowlings. When I get back home I'll put your completed goody there in the intro post. Thank you for being a part of this group build. Would like you to hang around as your input and company is always good and welcomed.

Reasoned: Your mottle isn't a disaster. I had the same problem with mine at first but finally figured it out. Like Doug said I cranked my pressure up to about 30-35 psi (you'll have to play with the mixture of paint that you want-I can't remember if it was thinned down or not-a spare fuselage will work for practice). I then adjusted the air brush so hardly any paint came past the needle. The real trick is to lay yourself a "dot" down first to start the mottle effect and then don't stay in one place too long and keep the brush MOVING.

Wow, she's beautiful, Rigidrider!! Now that's a well worn and battle-weary airplane, man. Love it. I hope I can come close to that with mine. Excellent work, sir.

and, Reasoned ..... Coming together nicely. Some blend sanding and a slight wash and it'll be superb! I like your choice of colors as well.

But more than anything else I could want at the moment....

I REALLY WISH THEY WOULD FIX THIS DANG THREAD!!!!!!!!!!!