Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

Pablon - Welcome to the GB. Sure glad to have you participate and share your 190 with us.

Joe - What can I say  except that your efforts on the recovery is some sweet action. Well done.

Thanks Doug and Joe! Can't wait to clean up some of the mess on the gun platform and start on the wings tomorrow! Progress at last! I was thinking about building the wings minus landing gear, installing them,doing all the sanding and filling, prime and paint the fuselage and wings and then start attaching the engine mounts and engine to the firewall. A little bass ackwards I know but I can't bear the thought of building all of that stuff at the front of the plane ( there is ALOT of stuff up front too) and attempting to mask around that. All I can see is not only something that's difficult to work with but also all of that work being redone due to breakage from handling.

Oh well I've got myself a plan. Hopefully everything goes smoothly. If not...............that's modelling! I do love me a challenge!

OK guys... a little more decal work... Man, I love that Micro-Sol and Micro-Set. Like they say, For that painted on look. I have ran into some decals that are just plain TOUGH and take alot of work, But most all of the Name brands (Strike Eagle etc) are very easy to work with and just "melt" into the paint,rivets, and body lines. I've slacked off some this week, but I want to make extra sure the paint has set for at least a week before decals... no need to rush the finish.

Doug

Looking Sweet Doug. Mind letting me know what you used to highlight/wash the panel lines? They look good. Also nice job on the exhaust.

Thank you Joe R.

For the panel lines I've tried to pre shade, and it just doesn't work for me, I have tried premixed (store bought) wash, and get mixed results, the only thing I really like and have any sucess with is "sludge". Depending on the color, and the desired effect, I start with about 1/4 color,(paint) 3/4 water (thinner) and several drops of liquid dish soap mixed together. You can adjust the mixture as desired. Usually you just dip a fine brush in the mix, and daub it to the area. It will usually run the lines nicely. Again depending on the effect desired a second or third application may or may not be applied. Allow to set for awhile, then dampen a Qtip and remove excess wash. I  dip Qtip in water then squeeze out. Make sure before application that your Gloss coat is dry! if not it will rub off too. After you get it on and are satisfied just apply your dull coat and sit back and admire your work!. The exhaust is airbrushed black then a dark brown , sieanna, or any shade your going for, again depending on the effect you want.

Thanks

Doug

PS Oils work great too, I just like the water clean up better.

Doug - Thank you for sharing that with us. I figured it was likely a grunge wash. The real reason I asked is that in our GB's those of us who have been around awhile tend to post our progress with the assumption that all participants are already savy with most of the skills techniques used in the process. Pics are posted without describing what techniques we used and what paint type, glue, tool etc...were utilized in the process. There has recently been an excellent influx of new members to the Forum and thus, I encourage each of us to maybe use a bit more detail in our progress reports and/or more pics of your process in order to assist those that are new here and to enhance their experience. Heck, I still consider myself rather new and I like to see and hear how you got from point A to point B. Maybe include some pics of the paint, putty, glue, tool etc... used. This is merely a suggestion and one of the many random thoughts that run through my often too busy head. Thank you everyone.

Doug...............that thing is looking better all the time. Nice weathering on that!

JOE, you make a very good point, and i will hold my hands up and admit to being guilty of not going into much detail of the methods i am useing. I have learnt most, if not all of these, from other people on this site. And as you say, there are a lot of new members, many of whom are either new to the hobby, or returning after a long time away. So your right, we should all try and explain things a little better. I will try to remember that.

Doug, i have not tried pre shadieng at all. I just don't think it suits the darker schemes used on many WW2 aircraft. That and i am happy with the methods i am useing at the minute. If your happy with sludge, then stick to it. That is looking great by the way.

Joe Rix... You sir are absolutely right, and I apologize for "assuming" even if I didn't intend to. I guess kinda like Bish said, we just get used to doing, and thinking that others already know or understand. I will try to do do a better job in the future of being more descriptive... Thank you for bringing that to my attention. I am the type that just loves to share how I do what I do, I just forget that some ,as you said are just starting or returning and dont know what to ask or may be afraid of asking. I have run into a few (but VERY few) modelers who arent just delighted to share with and LEARN from others. Again, if you see Rigidrider or just good ole Doug, Please DO ask.

Bish, I think your right too about pre shading, alot of the time when I'm trying to show Fading or weathering, I shoot the top coat almost straight color then try fading the color with several drops of very light grey or darkening the same way with a few drops of Dark grey , Black and white are just a bit too harsh for my taste. Of corse the mixture is up to your desire and effect, and I highly suggest painting several "test" panels to try on so there are no suprises on your model. I've been known to have 5 or 6 jars of nearly identical colors mixed and lined up from dark to light and then you can see the diff.

Doug

Dora's at 1 minute in. Including the infamous "Blue 12". More shots of stukas and other birds later on;

resources.ushmm.org/.../detail.php

Got some time to build the other day, truth be told the jumo 213 was already assembled. Nothing too problematic yet, although the engine mount is a bit finicky.  We will see how everything lines up when it comes time to attach the wings.

Thanks for looking.

Nice work on the pit and Jumo. I just finished this kit, and was pretty impressed with a 24 year old kit. I did find the parts to build up the engine and gear bays not fitting that well, and with Dragon's awesome instructions, it only made it worse. Looks like you got a handle on it though.

Sorry for not checking in for a while on my Ta152 build.  I have a couple other works on the bench...most are going together like clock work.  But did you ever have a kit that seems to be cursed for some reason?  Talk about Murphy's Law with this one.  I decided to instead of just giving up, I think I will shelve it for a short while, until I get a few of my other builds out of the way.

blkhwkmatt - Looking very nice there. You have cetainlny put in some fine work on the detailing. Well done.

Hutchdh - Looking forward to when you get back to us.

Not going far....just letting the cooties wear off of this kit :)

Hutch

Well, Got a bit more done... Finished up the decals Friday after work, Applied the final gloss top coat to blend it all together. Saturday morning, shot two good coats of dull coat , then just misted on a coat(very thin mist) of straight rubbing alcohol, That always seems to make the finish dead flat dull. I retouched yhe exhaust so it didnt look painted oved, actually looks like its sooty now. Then I started fitting and installing the canopy. Suprisingly there were no gaps. I know we try to pre fit before, but it always seems that gaps suddenly appear after paint. Got the prop assy., painted and installed, next is the armorment and covers and least we forget the antana wire.

Doug

Wow Doug, You're rollin right along with this one! What are you doing for for the MG 131s? Kit parts? Resin? or metal?

Hey Nathan... I bought a set of RB vented  barrels for the upper twins and a set of RB 20mm Mg151 auto cannon barrels in the wings, The actions are the resin (minus the barrels) that came with the Verlinden Kit I bought to dress her up with. They are coming up next... I wont be doing any thing more this weekend due to a death in the family. And Nathan, by the way, I didnt ignore your advise about the wing flaps... They were just so well Glued, that I feared breaking the wing or the resin flap trying to remove. The next build will reflect your welcome tip. I've never really studied indepth like you obviously have, and I do really appreciate the advise. Thanks loads! Take care my friend!

Doug

Doug, Man you are definitely coming along impressively. Really a superb build. The light mist of rubbing alcohol to achieve a dead flat finish is a new one on me. thanks for sharing that. Also, how did you create the interesting effect on the props? Now, Bring 'er Home.

Thanks Doug. Being a Commercial pilot and aircraft mechanic for a living does help in the Aircraft modeling world...

Builds are looking great Doug and Matt!! Got to get this 38t off the bench then I can hit the ground running on my D-9!!

Nathan... Well there you go then(lol)  I love airplanes always have, always will.But, I am only at the slightest side of operational knowledge. It really helps to have someone like yourself to give tips and hints! Thanks...

Joe...

Depending on the paint used, isopropol rubbing alcohol will do an amazing job dulling the finish. Now, that being said, some paints will not thin with alcohol and will make a right nasty mess if tried. You have to just experament to see. Most all Tamiya acrylics and Model master acrylics work very well with alcohol and even better with denatured alcohol as a thinner.

Pollysol and I think Mr Color will not. The almost act like enamels accidently dipped in water. With them its water only or their brand of thinner. I almost never use enamel any more, The odor and clean up is the reason. Next time you have a bit to experament, Spray or brush some alcohol on the finish and allow to dry, Careful not to over do, It could remove paint if applied to harshly, You just have to play around with it to get the results you desire.

Your friend

Doug

Oh and Joe, Sorry, forgot about the prop, Again, an alclhol (brushed) wash on the prop will streak it and dull it, and the spinner was many attempts trying to get a thin strip of tape wrapped around it then spraying black (painted prop spinner white to start) then again washing with alcohol.

Doug

blkhwkmatt: That interior is looking great! I like the engine as well.  You guys that are building these D-9s and 152's are really giving me the itch. I've got a hankerin' for a ZM 152. I may try that one in the distant future.

hutchdh: I TOTALLY understand! I've had kits like that before and did like you. Put em away for a short while to regain a sensible frame of mind and re-approach. It's sometimes the only way! We'll leave the light on.

Doug: Good Grief Charlie Brown! You're coming along really nicely and fast on this one. Weathering looks great. Shoot I'm still building the wings for cryin out loud!!

Update today: Attempted assembling the spars in the wings. I must have glued the main wing spar in just a smidgen (and I mean a smidgen!!!) too far forward. The spars from the main spar to the front of the landing gear opening go too far forward interfering with the fit of the upper wing to the lower wing. I ended up filing and sanding each spar in an attempt to attain proper fit and it ended up looking like what it was when I was done with the mods-hacked up plastic! This kit comes with two complete kits so I am probably going to start over with the wing( and this is after I straightened it from the warped state it was in.) totally. If that fails then I'll get a weekend edition A8/R2. I am stubborn if anybody didn't know and this thing will be built right one way or the other! I'm still having fun with it just a little frustrated with the precision of this kit.  It'll end up being a plane in the end. You can take that to the bank. Will see how it goes in the morning and let you guys know.

Matt... looking good!

Joe (mustang) thanks Bud... other then a few snags shes going great. Thats from having time to get all the parts ordered and on hand and building and studying over and over books and info in my head for months before we started. Another grteat thing is 1 no kids 2 wife works on the weekend and 3 no dogs! (ha) that equals build time!.

Jester , Thanks! cant wait to see your D-9 I like the "As" but love the "Ds".

Doug

Yargh! Finding that my Kodak Easy Share camera does OK with taking pics of 1/48 and wider angle 1/72 stuff. But, trying to capture detail in a 1/72 cockpit is proving challenging. I will endeavor though to make something work. Needless to say I have completed my cockpit and I am currently working on making the modifications to install my brass gun barrels. Which I might add are nice and tiny and thus prime candidates to be lost to carpet limbo. Pics to come soon in some form or another.

I hear you Joe, I have a Z712 and I find that my iPhone takes better close up detail shots than it does.

Well Joe I can sure identify with you. I was mistaken on the camera. It is a Nikon Cool Pix camera. It doesn't do half bad. I traded a guy in the shop some auto parts for it so the price was really good. Just short of free. It sure beat my phone to pieces though. Looking forward to seeing some pictures anyhow.

Guys - thanks for all the comments. I have the wings on now and will attempt to get some pictures in the next few days.  I  will be focusing on getting the seams sanded flush and then rescribing any of the damaged panel lines.  I was able to use my rivet tool and add some rivets to the fuselage and upper wings.  The will end up being very subtle I think.  will attempt to capture some in the pics.

Matt

Joe, i know what you mean. It has taken me ages to learn how to get decent close up pics of 72nd pits and other small areas. But the problem i find is that it highlights stuff you can't see with the naked eye. Its amazing how paint on a 72nd pit looks so rough when i imagine it wouldn't look anywhere as bad in larger scales. I have been taking a few tips from guys on here about taking photo's and it really helps.

For the close up's, you really need a camera with Macro settings.