Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

Eric,

  I don't believe so.  there are joint lines where the pods meet the flaps so they can flex underneath the pods.

John

Nathan T

Nice work John. I like the underside streaks and weathering. All I can say is maybe tone down the black on the crosses a bit. Maybe a light misting of tan or buff with the airbrush over the decals?

John

I agree John... very nice weathering...good looking build.

plastickjunkie

Nathan

You were asking about the cover fit earlier. This is how mine came out.

 

I clamped the Dora up and Plast-I-Welded the joints last night before going to bed. Took off the clamps late afternoon and started cleaning up the seams. I'm surprised at how the Plast-I-Weld melts the plastic and closed up the gaps in the front.

But the back needed stretched sprue to fill in. Once it cures I will sand it even.

 

The barrels  were drilled out with a .0145 bit. The wing saddle joint needs more cleaning up and polishing.

You lucky...! Now that's what I'm doing next time with the wing covers! Great work Plasticjunkie!! So I see Quickboost makes a resin replacement supercharger intake for D-11/13s. Is it necessary...? Cause there is a few more things I could use from Spruebros...

Looks sharp John, those gun pods are HUGE!! Did they interfere with the operation of the flaps?

Nice work John. I like the underside streaks and weathering. All I can say is maybe tone down the black on the crosses a bit. Maybe a light misting of tan or buff with the airbrush over the decals?

Ok,  here's almost the final pictures.  I only have 3 PE antennas to and add some flat coat to the spinner.

And just a little more weathering around the 30mm canons.

John

Clemens:Good buddy I have all of your entries posted in the intro post........finally. Had to print off a list but I got it.

Dog

Sorry but can't comment on the Tamiya powders since I haven't used them. I use MMP and DOA powders which are excellent. The DOA powders I got from a chap over across the pond. I also have used the stick kind from the craft store grounded  up too. For fuel stains I usually use burnt or raw umber artists oils. I find that they give me lots of control in fading and blending. Tamiya smoke is great for simulating exhaust stains thru the AB.

I see you guys are was talking a about pastel powders. Dose anybody have any idea how to use tamyia pastels I tryd them and got nothing out of it.

So I purchesd a bulck set from a craft store ground some black off and put it on with a brush and it worked great. So how is the tamyia suposed to work. ? For fuel stains what should I mix these products with.

Hello all I gave up my laptop to my doughter for school she broke hers.

So I'm trying this on a phone.

Greg your build is looking great. My bench plans aren't paning out. That life thing keeps popping up.

Nathan.  I think a few pages back you asked about the hobby boss kit.

It fits very well the seems fit nice and tight. And I love the oversized lockato

R pins and holes for internal parts ingine and cockpit rock solid and in place putting the to halfs together around the flawless with no sanding or grinding.

Ill post more picks when I get back to the desk.

Doug: those are some great looking models! I have to give your alcohol technique a try at some point...

Greg: Looks like the gloss coat did it's job! Nice save (although it wasn't really necessary IMHO...)!

I use a scalpel with a rounded blade to cut PE parts off the frets. While working with the colored PE for the cockpits I managed to snap the blade off. That means I have to go to my LHS and hope they have a set of spare blades left (they were sold out last time I checked...)

Greg

Glad it worked out and you got your project on the right track

.

Joe

I use alcohol as a fixer over enamels for weathering powders when I want a muddy caked up look on armor and the alcohol flattens out any sheen and gives a faded look to the weathered area. makes a very convincing dried mud.

Rigidrider

That's a very cool looking dio. You nailed the rusting effect on that bad boy! And that's one great looking Emil.

Joe R... I have not yet had a problem with using the alcohol on any type surface finish that I've tried. its just as always, thy something as a sample before doing actual project, I know your going to do fine, you've had so many problems with this build that when your finished, its going to be amazing! (LOL) It has to be right???

Greg, no problem... You move along at your own pace... Remember?... Crawl before walk? Sometimes I feel that I can finally stand up and I get knocked back down again ! Keep up the good work!!!

Doug

PJ's (and everyone else who confirmed it would work) solution worked!  Easy to see where I did my test spraying last night..... (did a small section on the tail, when it looked to be working, then got braver and came up the side a bit....)

Doug, I really, really appreciate your post. I struggle with doing non-uniform things, like the partial dulling you have shown me. So I have a bit of unplanned re-masking to do (more than happy to do it), and I can get back where I was then try some of your ideas.

You guys are truly the best.

Joe Rix, thanks for your encouragment. Keep smiling.

Morning Doug. So I'm curious about your alcohol mix. Are you saying that this works on an acrylic clear cote without harming it? Good to hear that it works on enamels as this is just the method I want to use to dull my camo pattern. That is if I ever get it fixed.

Greg - It's looking great. Sounds like you have a solution in hand. Looking forward to seeing the results.

I have an inkling on a solution for mine. I'll get back to you all on the results. I'm smiling today regardless.

Joe , here is the old car I was talking about, I wanted to make an old abandoned car that I saw many years ago while driving across New mexico (I think) This is not the same type of car but I thought this one would do just fine. This was the first time I had used (discovered) alcohol was a good dulling agent. I had accidently got some on the finish and liked what I saw!  I've used it every since as required...

Doug

The finish was gloss red enamel to begin with... The rust is a combination of acrylic browns, umbers and sienas both burnt and raw.

Thanks Doug!! Really good information. The SBD is in Clemens Carrier GB.

  Morning Joe... I generally use model master, and Tamiya paints, in this case model master, The ratio of paint to (in this case alcohol) thinner depends on the desired look, In this case I used enough paint to make the mix opaque but not solid. I would guess at about 60-40 thinner to paint. this will dull and fade the entire surface and you can build up some areas to look even more faded. Please... just remember to allow ample time to dry in between coats to be able to judge results.(a hair drier works great to speed up the process)

   Light (misting) coats are the trick, and again remember that isopropol alcohol can be very aggressive and damage your finish if rushed or applied too heavily at a time. What do we harp on Joe? Practice Practice Practice! (ha) Hope this helps with your finish, Where is your Dauntless posted? I'd love to follow that one!

Doug

by the way... I also found by accident, that alcohol works well to dull many enamels too, I tried some on a Testors gloss enamel and after adout 2 or 3 coats it looked like a very sun faded old car left out in the desert. Which is what I was wanting to do! (lol)

Hey Doug. That was great! What's the ratio of grey to alcohol mix?? I'll be using this on my friggin Dauntless I'm building. Which acrylic paint are you using? MM?

Greg, Here are some examples of what I was talking about. These are all done like I (and some of the others) were talking about. This was a Bf109 E-3 I did awhile back, Its a good ole MatchBox Kit and I'll try to explain as I go...

The first picture already has some finish, basic fading and the 2 or 3 gloss coats applied.

This one has the first dull coat applied, but being a well worn sun bleached finish it needs more fading, and the decals look like fresh sprayed glossy lacquer, That will never do...I mixed a little pale grey with sone alcohol and lightly applied over decals and other areas where the sand and sun would have been the worst on the finish.

lastly a few coats of straight rubbing alcohol applied and all finish blends nowand she looks like a 109 thats been in service for awhile. Hope this helps, Just trying to show what a little trial and error and some patience can do for you. I still think your doing a great job ...Take care

Doug

Greg, I really see nothing at all wrong with what you have done... a couple of things. depending on the look your going for, the washed out look in some areas will give your finish a faded "sand blasted" look of a war weary 190. Next, like PJ said, another coat of gloss (ie future, mop and glo, what ever you prefer) will even the finish back out, wait until fully cured, then hit with another dull coat and there you have it! Now, again, depending on the desired look, to REALLY flatten out a finish, I also hit it with a misting coat of rubbing alcohol right from the bottle, with the air brush at a medium pressure. Best to practice on a scrap piece before trying on your model, Alcohol is and can be very harsh if applied wrong and there are diff. strengths you can buy. So try out first. I almost always have a sample board near by, where I've sprayed several patches of the colors I'm using so if I need I can try out things on it instead of the actual model. But again, I think your finish is looking great! Mottling is blending very nicely,

Take care, and remember, If it messes up...GOLF IT! Just try try again!

Doug

Nathan T

....Cause Future is Magic...

Good enough for me, PJ. I already tried it back around the tail section. Unless it fogs back up overnight, looking most promising. If it holds up after drying, will post a shot tomorrow. Thank you very much!

The underlying gloss coat was Alclad Kleer (mineral spirit bases, not the acrylic). Wonder if that had a bearing on anything? I wouldn't think so.

You guys rock. I like Nathans explanation, too. :)

Greg

A while back I used decal setting solution on a Futured wing and it fogged and hazed the finish. This was due because I didn't wait at least a day to let the Future cure so I hit it with more Future and it killed the haze like nothing ever  happened. Don't have an answer as to why it works but it did for me so it may be worth a try.

....Cause Future is Magic...

Thanks Clemens.

PJ, I wondered if somebody might have a fix. If you say so, boss, I'm gonna try it! Thanks!

I'm quite curious why this works.

Greg

You can fix that by shooting or brushing Future, it will neutralize the milky shade. Then shoot MM flat over and good as new.

I second Joe's comment. Nobody will ever notice without you telling him, my friend!

mustang1989

That looks good Greg and if you hadn't said anything nobody would have noticed.

Probably right, my wise friend. :)