Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

They are enamel based? That's odd. I use Revell "Aqua Color Clean" (strong acrylic thinner) to clean my AB after spraying them and it works perfectly. I can remove the clear coat from my models with Gunze acrylic thinner as well (I tried different solvents in combination for a whitewash project). I always thought it was acrylic paint because of said characteristics. I'm kinda confused right now....

Here's a link to the whitewash project:

cs.finescale.com/.../147648.aspx

Just scroll down to the middle of the page...

I tried using different acrylic thinners to remove Vallejo paint without damaging the clear coat underneath. Every solvent dissolved the clear coat except Vallejo's AB thinner (that one is a really mild solvent)...

Aqua Gloss is Acrylic, water/glycol based and Alclad's clear Kote line is an enamel, aka Mineral spirits. They are different, but I'll agree both lines are great. I just don't use the clear Kote cause oil washes will ruin it cause they are both Mineral based Enamels.

Alclad Aqua Gloss? I never heard of that. I am using Alclad's "Clear Kote" though. It comes in "Flat", "Light Sheen" and "Gloss". It is acrylic based, so maybe we are talking about the same clear coat with different names? I can only recommend that stuff. It is the best clear coat I know of...

Thanks for the dry tip warning, Nathan. I'll be prepared for that then.

I'm fairly happy with the Aqua Gloss. It needs no thinning so I just pour it right outa the bottle into the airbrush. It dries fast and can have tip dry issues, so have a cotton swab handy. I've learned if the flow starts to diminish, don't push it by opening up the airflow all the way, as you'll just get dried boogers sprayed on to the model. Quit right away and wipe off the tip, and continue on spraying. If it seems to orange peel, don't worry. Just walk away when you're done and it seems to level out as it dries.

Rigidrider

LOL... I've rarely been able to get the spiral decals to lay out properly... I just learned to cut my Tamiya tape to the desired width and mask! The last time I tried a decal, it took me about 30 min to find the  prop assy ! (LOL)

Greg:That's not  a problem on the advice. That's part of why we are all here!

LOL... I've rarely been able to get the spiral decals to lay out properly... I just learned to cut my Tamiya tape to the desired width and mask! The last time I tried a decal, it took me about 30 min to find the  prop assy ! (LOL)

What in ironic start to a day. I say that because......

1. The product I mentioned I am off to buy shortly happens to be Alclad Aqua Klear Gloss. Stumbled on some posts about it yesterday, thought I'd try it before asking yet another "how do YOU clear coat" question.

Thank you Nathan and Joe, now I can't wait to get it even more! Appreciate the usage tips, and now I know who to ask with questions!

2. I did the spinner spiral last night, had same feelings as you, Joe. I came very close to ruining it. Half afraid to go look, but it should be ok. I'll show mine if you show yours.

Well I've painted two and now have applied two decals. I like the decals a little better even though for me there's a little more work/ frustration involved just because of the demarcation line that the mask leaves.

Yeah I just have a thing for spinner spirals. I'm gonna start using masks for mine, and save on the microsol.

It'll be tonight before I'm able to do that good buddy! I put a 6th coat of Microsol on the thing before I left for work!!!!

Pic of the spiral...

Greg: Nathan T has the technique down. Thats about how I do it. Produces good results for me about every time. Just allow ALOT of cure out time before messing with it. I always give mine a couple of days before I do anything because I do lay the coat on thick.

Everybody: I have to say that in my time I have applied a decal or two but this friggin spiral decal on this spinner this morning made me question my abilities big time!! I chased this thing with decal set for around 30 minutes or so before I felt remotely comfortable with the way it laid down. After that it was smoothing out the wrinkles with Microsol. It took about 5 coats of this stuff before it hugged down like I wanted it to. WOW!!

I got the 76 sprayed on the nose and installed the radiator into it this morning as well. Waiting on that to cure out before I hit it with the gloss and then the wash.

Good luck with the glosscoats Greg. You will get it. I'm just now getting consitant use out of my gloss coats. If its any conselation I'd recommend Alcad Aqua Gloss or PolyScale Gloss thinned with Testors MM Acrylic Thinner. Just remember to spray it on real heavy just before it starts to run, and hold the airbrush about twice as far away as usual.

Ahah, John, the Tamiya kit I had in mind then.

Clemens, thanks for explaining "MTO", mate!

Nathan, thanks for reminding me the character will change as I move forward, I sorta forgot that! And also for your kind comments.

Doug, thanks for the kind words. And I think you addressed part of my question, the mottle pattern IS supposed to be subtle. Ahah, thanks, mate.

Joe (Mustang), I like progress pics, thanks. Looking good, and I think you know I really like open cowl flaps!

Joe (Rix), Update on the Vallejo gloss varnish. Unfortunately, the gear doors must have been beginners luck or something. I went through half a bottle trying to recreate the first go, only managed to make a bit of a mess of my 190 (no worries, though). So for now, I'm putting in the same category as spraying Future. Great when it works, total lack of consistency for unexplainable reasons. the Vallejo does dry fast though, so if you can figure out how to spray it consistently, you might like it.

I am making a trek to a LHS tomorrow, something I want to try. Will advise if I have any luck.

I'm having a bad run on gloss coats, second model back in the game, second disappointment. I should have known better than to spray the gloss before having any reason to believe I had it figured out. Ah well, learning, learning.......

Nathan T

Sweet, modeling during the daylight hours...oh how I wish I could...

Sweet, modeling during the daylight hours...oh how I wish I could...

Well I've got the afternoon off today so I'm making progress with what time I have. Got most of the electrical ran at the firewall, painted the prop spinner black and gloss coated today, painted the prop spinner base black, got the radiator painted and a wash applied and now the nose. Got it primed early this morning (at about 5 or so and now going on with a coat of 82. Will hit the 76 later after I let the 82 dry and cure a while. Then its off to gloss, a wash and dull coat. I should be done with the nose module by the end of the week God willin' !!!!

Here's the nose section waiting on dry time:

I always like adding decals. It gives the kit an identity.

Joe... My favorite part of the build, decals and detailing!

Greg, your paint looks just fine!  I personally like the MTO colors, very cool look they had.Just a hint... when you begin your glossing pre decal application, your scheme will darken a bit, so when you dull back out it will look a bit different from what you are seeing now.

Nathan T

 Keep in mind, gloss coats, decals, and weathering will change the look of your camo anyway.

No two "mottles, or spots", were alike Greg. I wouldnt' worry too much. Unless you have a pic of the real thing I'd say yours looks good. Keep in mind, gloss coats, decals, and weathering will change the look of your camo anyway.

MTO stands for "Mediterranean Theatre of Operations".

The Tamiya kit is a nice little gem. It has a few inaccuracies, but the fit is really nice, as well as the amount and quality of details. The bomb cart is a nice addition and the marking options are interesting. It also comes with all the ordnance you need (cluster bomb, big bomb, rockets, small bombs for the wing pylons)

Greg,

  the one with the bomb loader is the one .

John

Gee, thanks my friends. That was a pleasant surprise to wake up to!

So, what is "MTO"?

Nathan, for inspiration I had the Hasegawa box art, the B&W instruction paint/decal diagram for this scheme, and all of the mottling jobs I've seen so far here at the FSM forum.

Tankster, thank you for your specific tips and for commenting. It is through these that I learn!

John, is that the Tamiya kit with the bomb rack and a couple of loader figures? My choice was between that one and the Hasegawa, because the mottle pattern looked less complicated and doable at this point than so many other schemes. Ha, silly me.

General question: Is the camo/mottle coverage supposed to be very thin, just barely opaque at the centers and fade out at the edges? Or just barely opaque, all of them? I ask becasue I got a handful heavier than others, and I think they look funny. Or should they all be almost slightly transparent?

Thanks again for your help, support and encouragement, mates.

That is some fine mottle Greg, excellent work!!

Yep, the Tamiya F-8 has decals for an MTO scheme as well.

Greg,

  I think in looks great!  I think I just bought a tamiya fw190F-8 that had that scheme on the out side of the box.

John

Stop lying to us! I know you did that before already! On a more serious note: She looks absolutely gorgeous! Nothing to be ashamed of. That is some incredibly good looking work, brother!

Greg, that is certainly not something to be ashamed of. The mottling looks great. I bet there will be no stopping you now.