Fw 190 Butcher Bird 2013 (extended to June 2014) Group Build

mustang1989

Thanks John. Looks like all of your worries about your mottle skills were unfounded. Good job to you as well!

John

John, both of those 190's look great! Hard to believe one is a snap kit!!

Joe, that engine module is da bomb!

Boy did I learn something new last night,

clear Plastic and CA accelerator don't mix.   i was gluing a nylon antenna wire to the top of the canopy on my FW190 and the super glue was not setting fast enough so I thought I would use some accelerator on it,  big mistake the accelerator fogged the clear plastic!

I did manage to buff it clear again with some Novus #3 polish and a Q-tip

And yes I was using a CA that would not fog clear plastic, I've used many times on canopies.  it was Bob Smith's super Gold.  Hope this helps anyone avoid the accelerator fogging mess.  Sorry I didn't get any pictures of the disaster.

John

Thanks John. Looks like all of your worries about your mottle skills were unfounded. Good job to you as well!

Joe,

 That engine and spinner are fantastic,  I think I'll take my 190 and just go back to bed.

John

Nice job John. Really like the paint on both of 'em!!! Your mottle effect looks awesome as well, Joe

Hey guys. Just finished up the nose module minus guns this morning!! The guns should make it today hopefully and I can finish it up this weekend. The receivers are painted and weathered and waiting on those barrels. I would have had these posted about two hous earlier but my computer aint playing fair!  Here's a couple of shots:

here's the progress on the real plane for this build, which is almost done.  just the wing canon's, canopy, wheels and some weathering I think.

John

Ok here's the last picture of my FW190A-3 snap together.  which isn't for this build but I thought you might like to see it before it goes under glass at my LHS.

Here's the box top,  the manager I work with at the hobby store wanted me to build it OOB to show what you can do with a snap together model, so I had to use the supplied decals only!  But I did cheat just a little I had to add the swastika's

John

Yep. Probably shouldn't use an enamel, or oil-turpenoid mixed wash over another enamel or mineral spirit gloss, such as Alcad's clear Kote. If I know I will be doing an oil wash I make sure I use an Acrylic clear coat before hand. Sorry to hear about the Jug Rix. Hope you get the urge to fix her up again.

Oh no Greg, Posting that over in techniques is an excellent place to ask. Look Greg, I am no expert nor chemist when it comes to gloss cotes and washes. I simply know what I have learned here and from own experiences, both good and bad. I have a Tamiya P-47D that I was building for the Big Beautiful Jugs GB that I painted with Alclad paints and gloss coted with Alclad Klear Kote. I used Artist's oils and turpenoid as a wash with excellent results right up until I made a fateful decision. I was nearly done except for a small section on the left side of the fuselage. Then, I received my Mig Wash in the mail and opted to give it a try on the remaining section. BIG mistake as it ate through the gloss cote and paint. For some reason I was unable to repaint with Alclad. It just came out off colored. So, it sits awaitng a complete paint strip. I acted on advice given me by the owner of the LHS I go to. He told me that Aclad Klear Kote was almost impossible to damage. I should have paid attention to the "almost" part. It was a learning experience though. So, I guess my point is to test on an old model or piece of plastic first to confirm all will go well.

Here is a neat tutorial on oil washes with Turpenoid and artist's oils I found last night that may help out with some of the questions you have Greg.

agapemodels.com/.../modeling-techniques-a-simple-oil-wash-for-panel-lines

Thanks for the info on Turpenoid Joe and Clemens.

Still unclear on one thing though. Are you saying that oils mixed with Turpenoid are ok over lacquer, but oils mixed with regular mineral spirits are not? I'm asking because I picked up a jar of Alclad Klear Kote (not the aqua I got the other day) to try sometime, and I have zero experience laying anything over the top of lacquer, except a lacquer dull coat.

TIA

Joe, I had seen your informative post on washes above, which sort of prompted me to ask the my question about mixing the oils over in the technique section. I reckon I could have posted it here.

Gotcha , as long as its a like formula IE Model Master Tamiya, (very similar formulations)that will blend, some that wont are like the polly-s and some others, What I do to pre test them is to try to cut with either rubbing alcohol or lacquer thinner, if they thin without gumming or clumping, you should be able to blend.

also, I like to lighten with a pale grey, it makes for a nice weathered look, kind of takes the edge off the blend. Depending on the desired outcome, grey makes a good substitute for the brighter white look. Just a few thoughts, Hope that helped.

Take care

Doug

Model master paints states that you should use there white paint to mix in with whatever color you are using to softened it to 1/48 scale color. But all I can get is there white primer.

Just looking for advice From the g  If its safe to mix the primer with the paint.

I got in at the wrong time I think... what were you trying to do?

The resnon i was going to jump in in here is about model master paints.

this product wich is the acry line calls for 25% white to be added for 1/48 scale effect. I'm out and so is my hobby shop.

So I picked up white primer instead off the white gloss. Its the same product line.

So I'm thinking its compatible. Anybody have any advice on this?

I'm not exactly sure model paints but I'm painter in ghe construction trades one thing we never do is cut any  laquer with a none laquer based product.

SchattenSpartan

John: I'm afraid that won't work... I already glued the fuse halves together... I guess I'll just have to eyeball it and hope for the best... I think it is straight enough if it looks straight...

Ah... Ah...  a laser level?

You are indeed correct there Nathan.

I think Turpenoid is a more non-odor, eviro-friendly version of Turpentine, which is mineral spirits, and not as strong as a lacquer so it shouldnt' react when applied on top.

I think turpenoid is a turpentine replacement with the same or very similar characteristics? I'm not too sure on that one though...

Joe (Mustang), that cowl assy looks great! I really like the way the spinner spiral 'breaks' at the prop/hub cutout. That must have been quite a challenge! I note that this is how Eduard masks look, making me wonder about the prototypical accuracy of the Hasegawa decal I used. I think the squared off end looks odd.

Clemens and John, hope you guys get your nose sections figured out, and that you keep us apprised along the way.

Joe (Rix), thanks for commenting on my spinner. :)

You had asked about the drying time of the Vallejo clear varnish, which I'd said is fast. Just passing on to you that the Alclad Aqua Kleer (acryl) seems to dry even faster. Amazingly fast, IMO. But it seems you will go the way of lacquer anyway.

What exactly is Turpenoid? I've heard it tossed about, assume it is not just turpentine? Interesting that it does not react adversely with lacquers.

John: I'm afraid that won't work... I already glued the fuse halves together... I guess I'll just have to eyeball it and hope for the best... I think it is straight enough if it looks straight...

Joe: My post count seems to be fixed as well. Tamiya discontinued TS-13 in the states? That's wierd. We still have access to it in Austria and it is also on the German Tamiya website...

Jumpin' Johosaphat! You folks have been rather lively here lately. Good to see. Thusly. I best be to catchin' up.

plasticjunkie - A hardy welcome to you. Really glad to have you join us here. Certainly oodles of fun and fantastic modeling to be had here.

Joe and Greg - Fine work on those spirals gentlemen. Although I have only applied one so far I can honestly say that I will stick with decals rather than attempting to paint one.

 Concerning gloss cotes and washes. Given my recent experience with the odd brand acrylic gloss cote out of a rattle can I will be returning to a formula that works terrific for me. I use Tamiya Gloss Cote TS-13 acrylic lacquer out of a spray can. Simply reliable. Provides a beautiful cote over most any paint. I then apply a wash of artist oils and Turpenoid. The Turpenoid does not react to the lacquer. I prefer oil washes myself as they flow nicely and they are slow drying allowing more time to wipe off and adjust. Although this can be a negative in that it often takes a week to fully cure. Unfortunately, Tamiya has discontinued the TS-13 gloss cote . Thus, I will be seeking an alternative. Possibly Alclad Gloss Cote (lacquer).

 I have made a bit of progress in that I managed to get the RLM 76 sprayed on the repair area and things are looking good so far. (crossing fingers here). The wife arrives tomorrow for a visit home (Hell Yeah!) and will unlikely get any bench time next week. But after that I will be through with outside obligations that have been detrimental to any progress for the past month.

 I see that my post count has returned to normal.

Clemens: Sounds like you and John have your work cut out for you. Hate the fit issues. Sounds like between the two of you that you both are working through it. Thanks for the comments on the spinner/ nose section. They go on the engine assy some time this week. Now if I could just get those gun barrels in the mail.....

plastickjunkie: Thanks for the comments bud!

I would tape each half to a flat surface and then glue each nose piece to it's respective half,  that's assuming  the fuselage is split right down the middle with no steps or anything so it will lay flat.

You have to cut around the gun cover. I think it's a good idea to cut the 3 nose pieces from the sprues and tape them together, so you know how the nose looks like. That's what I did at least...

Do you have any ideas on how to determine if the nose section is straight?

It's really ambiguous when you get up to the top where the machine gun cover is,  do you cut around the front of the hatch?

Yep, that's where you have to cut it. But it is really hard to get that damn nose lined up with the fuselage. I'm still struggling with it...

SchattenSpartan

I can't help it but think that the nose is slightly off to the left as well...

    Well I went home last night and looked at my Dragon Ta152C-0 kit and your right you do have cut off the nose and attach a new one.     I'm very apprehensive  as to how to do that as the instructions don't really show where to cut.    Is it along the panel line on the exterior that goes up from just behind the leading edge of the wing root?

John