Ju 87 Stuka GB

Anybody ever use Print Scale decals before?  I have the 1/72 Stuka sheet 72-014 and they look great but don't want to lay down on the model.  It almost seems as if the film is too thick.

Can't wait to see them check.

Thanks, Bish.  I installed the engine last night, and will probably post some progress photos soon.

Glad to see you back John. Not sure if you have seen it, but I recently extended the GB for 3 months, so still got plenty of time.

Just letting everyone know I'm still here. Bench work to commence hopefully right after Xmas.  I really need to get some glue on my finger . John

Sorry check, I seem to have missed this post and have been neglecting things a little. I know what you mean about those IP's, especially in 72nd. I do usually try and have an open pit but even then it can be hard to see, especially if there is a large shroud over the IP. One thing I don't like is trying to open the kit canopies, I try and get a vac one if I need to do that. I don't blame you for leaving it closed.

Thanks, Bish and Greg.  I appreciate the comments.

On the few occasions I've used PE IP's, it turns out they're not real evident after the canopy goes on.  I did build an F4F-3 Wildcat, used a vacu-form canopy left in the open position, and that made things in the cockpit a lot more visible.

But Revell's Stuka has a closed canopy, and I don't feel like messing with it.

Thank you, pj and SS.  Appreciate the comments.  There really isn't much there in the crew compartment to work with in the first place.  I doubt much will show through after the canopy goes down, either.

That's nice looking interior you've constructed, plasticjunkie.  I like the detail.  

It looks like just behind the gunner's position, where the floor ends, the fuselage seam is visible.  There's the same issue on Revell's Stuka, and I was considering how to deal with it.  Do you have any ideas?  

Good improvisation check.

Nice work there PJ.

CMK, I like your use of the old decals. They add a lot. I like your decal IP better than my PE one, to be honest.

On the timing of my post, I got most of my interior ideas from previous interior posts by others here. Then you happen to see mine. That's one of the things I love about GB's, sort of "pay it forward' by design!

I'm also questioning how much effort to put into my powerplant. The Italeri engine is really very nicely detailed, but I can't see that any of it will be visible at all and I may shoot some black and call it a day. Why is it so difficult to do that?!?!?

Ernie, good to see you moving right along. I see you have your engine cowling assembled. I haven't been so sure about the order of things up there. I think I'll go ahead and assemble my cowling. Thanks for the sense of direction, mate.

Checkmate: Some nice, creative use of IP decals. Looking really nice!

Ernie: Your Stuka is looking very good as well so far!

Looking good there checkmate.

I have a small update on my build. Got the wings together along with the fuselage and nose section. They are all ready to be joined so it starts looking like a Stuka shortly.

And then, Greg posted his photo of his crew compartment, and I realized that there's a radio (isn't it?) behind the gunner. . .

. . .and the kit instruction just said to paint it 02.

So I went back and took a look at the crew compartments y'all had done and realized something was needed.

I found a couple of old instrument panel decals, cut them up and applied them for some sort of interest in there.  I know they're not accurate for the Stuka, since I know one of them at least was for a B-17, and maybe both of them.

None of you will tell, will ya?

Thanks, Greg, for your timely post of your interior!  It saved me from that embarrassing "bare-walls" look that interior designers despise.

Working on the wings:

Kit required drilling little holes for the wing bombs and the dive brakes.

Got the pilot and gunner positions assembled.

Added little bits to the inside fuselage.

Even got the engine together.  Isn't much to look at.  Doesn't show up well in the photos, but I painted it with MM's anthracite, dry brushed with steel, rust and silver, then gave it a wash of straight black.  Drilled out the bracket holes, since they were solid-molded.

Probably a waste of time, since only the very top will be visible after it's installed, and I'll likely glue the cowl down, anyhow.

The instrument panel is represented by a decal, which doesn't look too bad in this scale.

And then. . .

]Why thank you, Mike.

Greg -- fab work on that pit, mate! Sorry to be the last one to say so, I was away yesterday!

M/TB379

Well Doug 'ol buddy, that TV set idea sounds neat for sure. But beyond both my scrounging and ambition levels. :)

That said, your setup sounds rather intriguing and that sounds like something I could slap together. May I ask what kind of filter set you use? Do the filters foul quckly?

Proud of you Bish...Quitting is NOT the easiest thing to do! Kudos to you!!!

Greg... I have a set up where I have a frame with a filter set in it, and the back side has a slight bevel that comes to a central collection point that I can plug the hose of my shop vac to and when the vacuum is turned on it does a pretty good job of drawing fumes and over spray away from the work areas.

My friend has a cool set up, I'm going to copy when I find one. He took the guts out of an old 32" TV set and put a filter in where the Back of the tube was and plugs his shop vac up to it. He even epoxied a small florescent light in the top. Works like a dream.

Doug

Bish, I have to say good for you on all counts, mate!

I went years without a spray booth. I used to spray with a window open next to me and a fan blowing across the work area. That was fine in my barrack block when it was just me and I was wearing a respirator. But when I moved home I just couldn't especially as my bench is in the dining room which everyone else has to go through to get to the kitchen.

Now I am at the other extreme. A well ventilated shed, spray both and respirator. And I even gave up smoking this year, my lungs must think its Christmas every day lol.

I hear you, Bish. When I started back I made up my mind to stay with acrylic everything. That's not working out. I have no proper spray booth and I don't like spraying the nasty stuff indoors either, yet I do. On the rare occasion with a rattle can (ie, Tamiya extra fine primer), I do go outdoors though that's not for the winter I suspect.

One of these days I'd like to have at least a filtered booth (not vented outside), that day has yet to come. Hope I don't blow up the house in the meantime.

Greg

 

Bish, good idea about painting and drying in the shed. Reckon I could try the garage, but I'm too lazy (and it's cooool out there). I've been thinking on a drying box too, and have looked at Don's custom built one several times.

ye, mine is damn cold as well. But I don't really have any choice as there is no room at the bench and as I mainly spray enamels, I would rather get them out of the house. But this time of year I try and stick to spraying at weekends if I can so I can do it during the day. Either that or as soon as I get in from work. I had a bad experience last year with water based varnish so try and learnt an important lesson.

Raven

Don't matter what AB you use when spraying acrylics, tip dry will make itself present. One reason I try to stay away from acrylics if possible.

Yes you can spray clear lacquer over acrylics. I usually wait a few hours or till the next day  just to be safe. The lacquer when sprayed will dry pretty quick and will not cause any issues. Brushing it on the other hand will probably react badly over any paint.  

Nathan, thanks for the heads up about the glare shield. Guess today I'll snip the front windscreen from the sprue to get an idea how bad it is.

PJ, thanks for commenting and looking fwd to your pics, mate.

68GT, that splinter pattern looks great! And thanks for your comment on my pit.

Doug, thanks dude!

Raven, the underside looks good, sir. I paint dissimilar paints over one another regularly, and agree with Bish, generally no problem but best to wait for a good cure (days, not hours). But.....it's been decades since I've sprayed Testor's Dullcote (a product I am planinng to revisit very soon, BTW) . I'd do a test first to make sure. I am planning to do that after I procure a frest bottle of Dullcoat>

Also, since you mentioned rattle-can Dullcoat, my 2 cents would be to keep that can moving, you definitely wouldn't want it to go on too heavily over an acrylic base. Personally, I'd feel better shooting the Dullcoat through an a/b to be able to better control the paint flow, but I'm not that great with rattle cans.

Looking fwd to reading what others might have to say about your question.

Edit: I see 68GT and I cross-posted. Since he is doing Dullcoat over acrylic regularly, guess that firms it up)

Bish, good idea about painting and drying in the shed. Reckon I could try the garage, but I'm too lazy (and it's cooool out there). I've been thinking on a drying box too, and have looked at Don's custom built one several times.

I never had a problem of with dullcoat over the acrylic.  Like was said previously, if it is cured long enough all is good.  Then again the future would be good and then just apply the decals.

I thought I'd get started on the wings, while I'm waiting on paint and glue to set up on the engine and cockpit areas.

Revell made each wing in three pieces, with a separate part for the wing tips.  I think it's going to be a challenge cleaning up the seam between the wing and those molded on ailerons.  Not much space to get sandpaper in there.  I often use a toothpick with a little sandpaper superglued to it, for tight spaces like this--but even so, it's a little of a squeeze.

Greg, I now do all my painting out in my shed. I now leave the kist out there to dry and have found this helps cut down on the dust. I think most of mine in the pit comes from when I am using a brush, mainly for dry brushing. I have been planning on making something to keep the kit in when its drying, Don did a nice article on a drying box which also helps keep the dust off. But I just haven't gotten round to it.

Bob, Joe....thanks for your supportive comments, amigos.

And Steve, how nice of you to pop in and comment. Thanks, buddy! I do that from time to time in GB's I'm not in, and have yet to get hollered at.

Nathan, I too realised too late the wings could have been shimmed. I've seen it done here enough times (never done it myself yet) that it should have occurred to me. Have decided the 'step' is beyond my abilities to do much about other than filling whatever gap there is. Live and learn.

On this subject of dust, been thinking how easy it would be to keep components covered between sessions. However, my mind doesn't stay organized well enough for this to be a serious thought!

Nice job on the splinter 68.

Raven, looking good there. I am not sure about that myself. I think if the Acrylic is properly cured it should be ok, but that's just a guess on my part.

Good looking painting, 68 and Raven.  Really sharp.