Ju 87 Stuka GB

Nathan, that camo scheme is jaw-dropping.

I love it, great work.

Excellent work, Nathan. Apologies if it was already mentioned, but what kind of paint did you use?

Thanks for the good words everyone. Doug- I know you did a similar scheme and it turned out great too. It is definitely harder than it looks!

Mike- Yes, RLM 79 freehand. Took a while to dial in the airbrush and thinning ratio but I eventually came up with something acceptable. This was where I wish I had a smaller needle, .2mm would be perfect compared to my .35 Iwata.

Nathan, fantastic result, that's a highly skilful piece of painting! To freehand the tan (RLM 79?) over a standard scheme would terrify me, I never tamed my airbrush quite that far! It looks amazing!

M/TB379

WOW Nathan, that's amazing. I would love to be able to do a scheme like that. That is really stunning, can't wait to get it on page 1.

Looks fantastic Nathan! Great work on the camo

Nathan, Very cool looking paint! You never fail to amaze. Your Stuka is just beautiful!

Doug

That is some camouflage scheme, Nathan; outstanding results.  Shows a lot of painting skill.  Very appealing.

Sharp looking assembly there, eagle.  Really well-done.

Did the ailerons come molded to the wings, or where they separate assemblies?

Nice work in here everyone! Bout time I contributed to it! 

I've been working on a bunch of different stuff at once so I didn't take as many pics as I should have. I opted to go with a complex camo offered in one of Kagero's profiles, and they provide the main markings. I had to scrounge for a white outline swastika since Italeri provides none, and neither does Kagero. Lucky for me I had some old leftover from a Hasegawa Arado 234 kit. I like the look of this night bomber Stuka with its flame suppressors over the exhaust. All I have left is to install the rear canopy and add the rear MG 81z. 

The MG 151s need to be added in the wings, along with the SC 250s, antenna aerial. ...Anyone else building an Italeri 48 stuka notice the oversize pilots sliding canopy? It sure helps it fit in the open position over the center canopy, but this one is just wayy to large. It looks completely ridiculous when you try to pose it shut

Anyway, hope you like and it will be finished real soon!

mustang1989

Sorry Eagle. Didn't mean to bypass you. That paint job is looking great man!

Thanks Mustang!  Hoping the new colors work out well!

Eagle90

Sorry Eagle. Didn't mean to bypass you. That paint job is looking great man!

Bish

Coming on very nicely there eagle, can't wai to see the splinter go on.

Thank you sir!  Going to use slightly different color greens for the splinter than I did for the Mono Stuka.  Little more contrast.  Thanks Bish!

Eagle90

Bish

68GT

Thunderbolt - I was trying to put the crosses on the fuselage and they sit there like a piece of thin sheet styrene and wont even lay along the model.

For my wheels I just used black and applied some gloss coat to break up the wheel from the tire.

 

Ok, that's a new one. The wing decals look ok though, is it just the fuselage ones.

Coming on very nicely there eagle, can't wai to see the splinter go on.

Man, can't get enough Stuka!  Here are a couple of more progress pics.  Not much longer now!

Eagle90

I have a bottle of walthers but use it only on the most difficult of decals. Once applied, make sure decal is where you want, It is a brutal solution! Never tried the Vinegar but you know... Microset does have a vinegar smell to it. 68GT, someone told me at am IPMS show one time that he just used 90% isopropol rubbing alcohol to make em lay flat.

Thanks, Bish, for the information about anthracite.  Testors MM has a color called that, but it's kind of shiny and metallic--nothing close to panzer grey.  It's what I used to paint the Stuka engine.

68GT, Walthers makes something called "Solvaset," supposed to be the most powerful decal solution out there--sort of the 16-inch guns of decaling.  I haven't tried it, and at the point you're at, it might be better just to go with replacement decals, as others have suggested.

Alternatively, seems to me someone around the forum might have advocated straight vinegar for setting decals.  I haven't tried that either.

Although I've encountered some pretty thick and unco-operative decals over the years, I haven't ever seen the problem those decals are giving you.  

Dang... best to strip them, mate, get some AMs. Techmod, Aeromaster and Superscale all make Balkenkreutzer.

M/TB379

All of them are kind of rigid.  The under wing decals are the Printscale ones but that's a nice flat surface.  I just looked at them and they look like cut out paper.  The microsol had no affect on them.

68GT

Thunderbolt - I was trying to put the crosses on the fuselage and they sit there like a piece of thin sheet styrene and wont even lay along the model.

For my wheels I just used black and applied some gloss coat to break up the wheel from the tire.

 

Ok, that's a new one. The wing decals look ok though, is it just the fuselage ones.

checkmateking02

Bish

Check, Anthracite grey was a colour the Luftwaffe used for its ground equipment early in the war. For Stuka hubs, I use RLM 02.I can't recall where I picked that up from, a lot of German aircraft wheels seem to be either black or 02.

Ah!  I had no idea anthracite was a real LW color.  Thanks, Bish and 68GT.  I'll go with either black or 02.

I only came across it because Xtracolour does that colour. I don't think it has an RLM code. I only found out about it through some searching. Its rather similar to Pz Grey and may well be the same colour.

I've never seen a decal do that in my life. Yikes!

68GT -- Dayum! And that's the first time I've ever used that word! It looks like the top surface of the decal is drier than the underside and it's curling away, but that's nothing short of bizarre! I'd grab some AMs if possible, even if it's only to replace the crosses with ones that'll actually lie down...

M/TB379

Bish

Check, Anthracite grey was a colour the Luftwaffe used for its ground equipment early in the war. For Stuka hubs, I use RLM 02.I can't recall where I picked that up from, a lot of German aircraft wheels seem to be either black or 02.

Thunderbolt - I was trying to put the crosses on the fuselage and they sit there like a piece of thin sheet styrene and wont even lay along the model.

For my wheels I just used black and applied some gloss coat to break up the wheel from the tire.

Check, Anthracite grey was a colour the Luftwaffe used for its ground equipment early in the war. For Stuka hubs, I use RLM 02.I can't recall where I picked that up from, a lot of German aircraft wheels seem to be either black or 02.

I need a little advice.  

What colo(u)r are the Stuka's main wheels?  Not the tires, but the wheels themselves.

If there were variations, I'm looking at the time frame of Dunkirk and the Battle of Britain.

I've scrolled through the first 50 pages of the GB, and haven't found an answer yet, so I thought it might be simpler and quicker just to ask.

The kit instructions call for "anthracite," which might actually mean RLM 66, but I'm doubting that the Luftwaffe used anything called "anthracite."

Thanks in advance!

68GT -- for what it's worth I had exactly the same result from Eagle Strike just recently -- they would not pull into surface detail, had to be cut to go over raised stuff, and no amount of setting solution affected them in any way. The model looks good, but it was not the result you expect from AMs.

M/TB379

I have got 2 of their sets but not used them yet. I am planning on using one for my 1945 GB build. This doesn't sound very good. Try outing a post in the decaling section and see if you get a response.