Second Annual USAF Vietnam Group Build

mailwalker

Well after several family emergencies keeping me busy, I finally have gotten a chance to do something.

Keep in mind I am no expert, just wanting to learn and get better.

I have some cleanup to do on the olive drab and of course more paint to add, and I have got the fuel

tanks and armament glued up. Not satisfied with the smudginess of the controls. Pointers?

Here is my first attempt at dry brushing, not real satisfied. Any tips? I always dip my brush in thinner before painting to make it easier to clean, is this a mistake?

Hi Mailwalker,

I think it looks pretty good so far.  One thing that I have become accustomed to is how the camera and it's ability to take close ups will show even the smallest amount of imperfections.  With that said, it is very hard to get a close up of anything to look good.

As far as pointers, the only thing I can add is the way I try to get the small detail like the cockpit to look good.

First, I use a Donegan OptiVisor Headband Magnifier.  I use different magnifications depending on what I am doing.  I also use a couple of the lights that are meant for the OptiVisor.  This way I can get a real get "close up" while I am working on the subject.

Next I use a super small paint brush.  It is so small that the paint will dry on the brush before I get it to the subject I am painting.  So it takes a little practice to get used to. Here is a link to the one I use:

http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/amwbrush01.htm 

One other thing. I will paint the cockpit base color with gloss paint before adding any wash or detail.  This way if I do make a mistake, it is easy to wipe off and start over.  When the cockpit is finished, then I will spray a coat of flat clear to take away the shine and seal it up.

When dry brushing, you want the brush "dry".  Dipping the brush into thinner first is okay as long as you get the brush dry using paper towel before you attempt to add the detail.  If the brush is too wet, it will coat everything and the real object is to get the highlights accented and not get any paint into the recessed areas.

This will all take practice, so don't get discouraged if it doesn't come out perfect the first time.  Just keep working at it and you will get better.

Ken

Ken

That looks very nice. I like the feel you got on the metal, well done.

Theuns

Here's my Hun so far. I still need to mask off some panels and the rear exhaust area befor I spray the gloss and add decals. I know it looks kinda  messy, but the F 100, from what I've seen, just doesn't have that polished look like the F 104 seems to have.

Comments, criticisms welcome.

Steve

Well after several family emergencies keeping me busy, I finally have gotten a chance to do something.

Keep in mind I am no expert, just wanting to learn and get better.

I have some cleanup to do on the olive drab and of course more paint to add, and I have got the fuel

tanks and armament glued up. Not satisfied with the smudginess of the controls. Pointers?

Here is my first attempt at dry brushing, not real satisfied. Any tips? I always dip my brush in thinner before painting to make it easier to clean, is this a mistake?

Looks good, Steve!

Russ 

modelcrazy

Here's my F100 update.

Still need to install several more parts, but here the new pics (the color is supposed to dark olive green)

Nice work Steve!  It is definitely looking like a Super Sabre!     

Ken

Here's my F100 update.

Still need to install several more parts, but here the new pics (the color is supposed to dark olive green)

plasticjunkie

Well, I was hoping to make this a simple OOB build but it doesn't look that way. Preliminary recon on the subject revealed that Italeri goofed in the cockpit area as they included it for the WWII and Korea version of the A-26B/C variant having one pilot, one control yoke and a jump seat. The K version was modified to have dual controls and a co-pilot.  Shouldn't be too much of a hassle to extend the IP and scratch out a second yoke.

The wheels are wrong too as they were the KC-135 type along with the wing mounted MG's that need to be removed. There is also a missing tail beacon. Pretty simple fixes otherwise the exterior looks very good with recessed lines and the correct armament.

That is too bad that you will need to do the extra work on that kit to make it right.  But it shows how diligent you are about doing the research and the willingness to make it right.  Kudos to you for that!   

Ken

Son Of Medicine Man

Striker8241

Hi, All,

I imagine we're all stuck in real life issues and don't have much time for modeling. I know I don't at the moment. But I did manage to get a little more done on my Combat Talon C-130. I added the side circuit breaker panels and I've got the raised flight deck temporarily in place as shown in the photo below. I had to extend the deck forward about 4 mm to accommodate the deck.

I got sidetracked for awhile when I decided to build a model of a B-2 stand to go with my Arc Light diorama. Below is a picture of the progress so far.

Cheers,

Russ 

As always Russ, great job of scratch building!!    That looks great!

Ken

Thanks, Ken!  Not much to show for so long but at least I'm moving forward .

Russ

Well, I was hoping to make this a simple OOB build but it doesn't look that way. Preliminary recon on the subject revealed that Italeri goofed in the cockpit area as they included it for the WWII and Korea version of the A-26B/C variant having one pilot, one control yoke and a jump seat. The K version was modified to have dual controls and a co-pilot.  Shouldn't be too much of a hassle to extend the IP and scratch out a second yoke.

The wheels are wrong too as they were the KC-135 type along with the wing mounted MG's that need to be removed. There is also a missing tail beacon. Pretty simple fixes otherwise the exterior looks very good with recessed lines and the correct armament.

Thanks Ken. Sorting things out for this build and will be posting soon.

plasticjunkie

SOMM

Not a problem about the F-102. I had totally forgotten about my 1/72  Italeri B-26K Counter Invader. I have some great "Naughty Invaders" decals to go with it so please put me down for this one.

Decals are for a USAF  B-26K from Operation Steel Tiger in Laos, 1966-1969 and based at Nakom Phanom with the 609th SOS, 59th SOW.

 

Excellent Plasticjunkie!  Welcome aboard!    I am updating the roster on the front page.  We look forward to seeing your build!

Ken

SOMM

Not a problem about the F-102. I had totally forgotten about my 1/72  Italeri B-26K Counter Invader. I have some great "Naughty Invaders" decals to go with it so please put me down for this one.

Decals are for a USAF  B-26K from Operation Steel Tiger in Laos, 1966-1969 and based at Nakom Phanom with the 609th SOS, 59th SOW.

Thanks Ken,

I used Model Master acrylic for the primer. I usually spray acrylics and like their look, however I've never tried gloss acrylic. It sprayed very nice, and apparently didn't have any reaction to the lacquer Alclad.

I went through 1/2 a bottle of the Polished Aluminum, but I may not have needed to use that much, I'm still learning. I will try a different approach on the F100, but still use the acrylic as a base.

Steve

modelcrazy

Thanks Russ, here it is,

I shot the Alclad and it goes on nice. Went through a lot of it though.

Found out the prep work needs to be perfect. You can see every imperfection if it's not.

I do not care for this kit or build. I'm missing the wheels and the decals are just coming apart. I applied some Micro Sol liquid decal film, but too late to save the US Air Force decal for the side. I bet I can find a replacement though. I don't think I'll waste the Aim 9's and leave the racks empty.

Hi Steve,

It still looks pretty good from the picture.     

I have heard that you must have a perfect finish before using that Alclad.  I have several bottles of it myself but have never used it yet.  The only metal paint I have used is the Model Master Metalizer.  It worked pretty good.  One bonus of using it is the fact it is made to go directly on bare plastic.

Ken

plasticjunkie

SOMM

I have the 1/48 Monogram F-102A Delta Dagger and some beautiful decals but they are not from a Nam service unit. Can I use them on this GB? They are from the 496 FIS, Hahn Air Base, Germany, 1961?  

Hi Plasticjunkie,

I am sorry to be a stickler, but it wouldn't fit for this group build.  But I am hosting another group build that it would fit nicely!  Here is the link:

http://cs.finescale.com/fsm/modeling_subjects/f/29/t/158130.aspx?sort=ASC&pi240=1 

We would love to have you join us there!   

Ken

modelcrazy

Striker,

Nice work on the C130 work area (engineers area?) and raising the flight deck. That stand looks fabulous, very detailed.

Here's my progress on the F104. I'm trying a Acrylic Gloss Black instead of lacquer or enamel. I'm doing this for a couple reasons. In one post cs.finescale.com/.../162163.aspx, Neptun48 did a great job experimenting on several different primer coats for the Alclad. I liked the acrylic look, plus it cures much faster. Hopefully I can get the aluminum on this weekend.

Steve

Wow Steve, I am impressed!  I could never get a gloss that nice out of acrylic!

Ken

Striker8241

Hi, All,

I imagine we're all stuck in real life issues and don't have much time for modeling. I know I don't at the moment. But I did manage to get a little more done on my Combat Talon C-130. I added the side circuit breaker panels and I've got the raised flight deck temporarily in place as shown in the photo below. I had to extend the deck forward about 4 mm to accommodate the deck.

I got sidetracked for awhile when I decided to build a model of a B-2 stand to go with my Arc Light diorama. Below is a picture of the progress so far.

Cheers,

Russ 

As always Russ, great job of scratch building!!    That looks great!

Ken

SOMM

I have the 1/48 Monogram F-102A Delta Dagger and some beautiful decals but they are not from a Nam service unit. Can I use them on this GB? They are from the 496 FIS, Hahn Air Base, Germany, 1961?  

Great Idea Striker, Ill do that.

Yeah that's looking nice! Bummer about the decals but if you put the word out, there's probably a dozen modelers who'll contribute some for you.

Thanks Russ, here it is,

I shot the Alclad and it goes on nice. Went through a lot of it though.

Found out the prep work needs to be perfect. You can see every imperfection if it's not.

I do not care for this kit or build. I'm missing the wheels and the decals are just coming apart. I applied some Micro Sol liquid decal film, but too late to save the US Air Force decal for the side. I bet I can find a replacement though. I don't think I'll waste the Aim 9's and leave the racks empty.

Thanks, ModelCrazy.  That 104 is looking good - can't wait to see how the Alclad works out.

Cheers,

Russ

Striker,

Nice work on the C130 work area (engineers area?) and raising the flight deck. That stand looks fabulous, very detailed.

Here's my progress on the F104. I'm trying a Acrylic Gloss Black instead of lacquer or enamel. I'm doing this for a couple reasons. In one post cs.finescale.com/.../162163.aspx, Neptun48 did a great job experimenting on several different primer coats for the Alclad. I liked the acrylic look, plus it cures much faster. Hopefully I can get the aluminum on this weekend.

Steve

Hi, All,

I imagine we're all stuck in real life issues and don't have much time for modeling. I know I don't at the moment. But I did manage to get a little more done on my Combat Talon C-130. I added the side circuit breaker panels and I've got the raised flight deck temporarily in place as shown in the photo below. I had to extend the deck forward about 4 mm to accommodate the deck.

I got sidetracked for awhile when I decided to build a model of a B-2 stand to go with my Arc Light diorama. Below is a picture of the progress so far.

Cheers,

Russ 

mailwalker

Well, folks, I have got the cockpit area of the F-100D dry-fitted and a coat of dark gull gray laid down. Hopefully this weekend/early next week I can get some color in there and post some pics. Right now you can't tell too much as the kit is molded in silver. Did get to use my airbrush for the first time, pretty cool. Will be using a respirator next time, even outside I imagine that is too much fumes for me!

Sounds good Steve, look forward to seeing it.

On the note of fumes, my workbench doubles as a paint booth.  I even use the exhaust fan when I mix up anything with fumes such as epoxy, sanding resin, etc.

Ken

Well, folks, I have got the cockpit area of the F-100D dry-fitted and a coat of dark gull gray laid down. Hopefully this weekend/early next week I can get some color in there and post some pics. Right now you can't tell too much as the kit is molded in silver. Did get to use my airbrush for the first time, pretty cool. Will be using a respirator next time, even outside I imagine that is too much fumes for me!

modelcrazy

Well, I'm back on track. I've corrected the seam issue and started painting.

Steve

Great job on fixing the seam Steve!     

Ken

Well, I'm back on track. I've corrected the seam issue and started painting.

Steve

modelcrazy

Here's my 104 update. Ready for paint, but probably won't get to it until this weekend,

Hi Steve,

It looks like you have a good shine on your base coat.      You will need that for the Alclad II.

Ken