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Mustang Build

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  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, December 29, 2015 4:31 PM

Larry,

 

The only advice I can give is the primer base must be as smooth as glass. The Alclad will show every detail. The primer color will also determine the final outcome. Gloss black will result in a deeper shiner finish and a lighter flat base will cause the Alclad to more dull. Here is a F-100 I did with a dull gray base. The fuel tanks have a gloss black base and Aircraft Aluminum, I believe.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by lzdaily@comcast.net on Tuesday, December 29, 2015 5:33 PM

Steve,

Thanks for the info. Hopefully I'll be able to put it into practice as well as you - that's a gorgeous F-100D.

Larry

  • Member since
    February 2015
  • From: California
Posted by PA24-250Flyer on Tuesday, December 29, 2015 10:46 PM

modelcrazy

Larry,

 

The only advice I can give is the primer base must be as smooth as glass. The Alclad will show every detail. The primer color will also determine the final outcome. Gloss black will result in a deeper shiner finish and a lighter flat base will cause the Alclad to more dull. Here is a F-100 I did with a dull gray base. The fuel tanks have a gloss black base and Aircraft Aluminum, I believe.

 

Larry,

As one who is first-time navigating the minefield of Alclad NMF for my Mustang, I will add to Steve's advice as I am seeing it. First, be carful if using Airframe Aluminum as your overall first color. I did that and found that it apparently has too polished of a surface to allow for good adhesion of other colors. As an example, if doing panels in other shades (Aluminum, Duraluminum, etc.) they will easily peel up with masking tape if coated over the Airframe Aluminum base. Even if using the lowest-tack tapes. I tried to use post it notes but they do not stick to the Airframe Aluminum at all. The only way I got through it was by taking as much of the tack off Tamiya tape by applying it to my skin, gloves, and other low-lint surfaces. Second, I must stress the use of gloves at all times to keep finger prints off of the surface. Finger prints will EASILY show up if you touch the Alclad. Third, I had a heck of a time getting decals to lay down and adhere to the Alclad. I initially was not going to use Future as a seal coat out of fear of ruining the metal effect. However, I did break down and use it to seal the finish after having to buy a second set of aftermarket decals because the decals would not set all the way down on the finish, even after several applications of micro sol. Finally, I will say that even though I have been thoroughly tested in my first experience, I am very pleased with how it is looking and will be better prepared for the next NMF project.

All the best!

George

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Tuesday, December 29, 2015 11:55 PM
I agree with everything George said.
There are so many aspects to Alclad. The particular color (Airframe Aluminum, DurAluminum, White Aluminum ETC. See Alclad2.com for a breakdown). The primer color, wither the primer is dull, gloss, acrylic, enamel, lacquer, these will all make a huge difference as well.

But most of all, anything and everything will show up on the finished product.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    June 2013
Posted by RobGroot4 on Wednesday, December 30, 2015 7:15 AM

lzdaily@comcast.net

Ill Wind? is very nearly done. All that’s really left is the canopy, the antenna mast, and a little touch up here and there.

Steve, Groot, I used Alclad in the wheel wells of this build as a trial. Still a bit scared to try a whole NMF Mustang, but I've only got one more camoflaged plane to go before my NMF D's. Happy to get any wisdom you want to share.

Larry,

  I am far from an alclad expert, but have learned a ton from others here.  My drop tanks on my 51B's were my first foray into alclad.  I found it really easy to use.  I used Tamiya fine primer that I sanded lightly.  I wanted a duller finish though.  I can't remember which aluminum shade I used, but I put it down in 2 light coats with zero problems.  I want to say I clearcoated it with aqua gloss and then masked with Tamiya tape before painting on the red bands.  I had none of the paint lifting issues that others have expressed, but the clear coat may have helped.  Since the 51's I have done a couple F/A-18E exhaust cans with model master metalizer exhaust as a base and pale gold lightly misted over, I intend to put some alclad jet exhaust or burnt metal over that at some point.  But zero problems there as well.  The alclad is nice and thin and didn't really spatter at all so it looks like a hint of color rather than a bunch of tiny little dots.

  From what I have seen, it depends on the type of shine you want.  The darker the color the greater the depth and shine on your alclad.  For a duller finish, go with a lighter color.  It appears that some folks have had problems with the alclad gloss black base, I have some but haven't broken it open yet, but Model Master or testor's gloss black seem to be popular alternatives.  If you intend to mask over it, you might want to consider clearcoating first just in case (then again, I tend to be paranoid when it comes to paint lifting). 

  Other than that, I would say follow the directions on the bottle.  I was pretty intimidated beforehand (honestly still am to some extent), but I had zero problems with the little bit I did, worked like a champ.

 

Groot

"Firing flares while dumping fuel may ruin your day" SH-60B NATOPS

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by lzdaily@comcast.net on Wednesday, December 30, 2015 1:42 PM

Steve, George, and Groot,

Thanks for the info! I've saved it all into a file in my P-51D folder and you can bet that I'll be referring to it when it comes time to build my first D (which will be NMF).

That said, Ill Wind? is done! To match the few photos of the aircraft that I have, I had to scratchbuilt the antenna mast (I found a piece of framing from a 1/24 scale Gemini that was the correct diameter and squished the end between the jaws of a vise) and swiped the rear view mirror from my Tamiya P-51B (after making sure that the aircraft that I intend to model with that one didn’t have a mirror). Chipped paint was simulated by drawing the chips on with a silver PrismaColor pencil. I think I still need to add more, especially on the prop.

An early Happy New Year to everyone.

Larry

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Wednesday, December 30, 2015 3:09 PM

Larry, it looks fantastic. Great job on another one. Cody will get you up when he can.

I'm having my own issues with my 1/32 and 1/48 Stangs, and will be working on the Alclad soon.

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    February 2015
  • From: California
Posted by PA24-250Flyer on Wednesday, December 30, 2015 5:52 PM

Larry,

That looks fantastic! Nice job! I noticed that it seems that you put all the glass in last. Does that work better for you? I have mostly done masking around the cockpit only to find later that a little overspray leaked in to the windshield making it difficult to clean once it is on the model. I was hoping you or anybody else could send me some tricks regarding when to put the glass on and how to do it without showing glue over paint.

Thanks!

George

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by lzdaily@comcast.net on Wednesday, December 30, 2015 6:13 PM

Steve, George,

Thanks for the kind words about my build. The B is probably my favorite variant of the Mustang, so I had a lot of fun with this one.

George, some of the glass goes in early in the build. I like to drill out the formation lights and use clear 1/16" rod to represent the lenses (like the pic below). I've also found it easier to get the landing light covers in place before paint. The Eduard masks that I've been using usually have custom cut masks for both of those items. The one time I tried placing the canopy before paint, I ended up with the same issue that you did - overspray inside that there was just no way to get off without prying off the canopy (which I had - fortunately - attached with white glue). In the end, I ended up replacing that model. What I've done lately is to carefully remove the canopy parts from the sprue to minimize the stress "clouding" in the parts. I cover all but the stub area with blue painters tape and sand the stub off with a sanding stick. Then I polish the parts using some Tamiya polish. That's followed with a throrough cleaning using dish soap and an old soft toothbrush. Once the parts are completely dry, I dip them in Future and let that dry for at least 24 hours. I mask with the Eduard masks on the outside and Tamiya masking tape inside. Once the paint is dry, I install the windscreen using ACC, then the center part of the canopy (again using ACC), and then the rear panels using white glue. Might sound crazy, but it gets me the best fit of the clear parts.

Best,Larry

  • Member since
    February 2015
  • From: California
Posted by PA24-250Flyer on Wednesday, December 30, 2015 8:14 PM

Great info Larry! I will be borrowing those tips for next timeBig SmileThanks so much!

George

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Between LA and OC, SoCal
Posted by oortiz10 on Thursday, December 31, 2015 6:07 PM

Nice work there, Larry.  Your -B looks the part!

 

I've made a little progress on my -D.  In typical O-fashion, it's a matter of two steps forward, one step back for me.

After spraying the forward fuselage and wings with Alclad Aluminum, I wet-sanded it with a 3600 grit pad to knock down any high spots and remove any dust that settled while the first coat dried.

After wiping it clean, I resprayed a second light coat of Alclad Aluminum to get total coverage.

After a couple of days of letting the Alclad cure, I went back to mask and paint the camo.  I decided to paint the demarcation line instead of using a decal.  It turned out better than I expected but not as good as I hoped.

 

There was some significant paint build up against the masking and when I sanded it down, I exposed some of the primer beneath.

 

So, I need to go back and clean up the red line and the camo.  

That's where I'm at with my Mustang.  Feel free to drop your two cents in the bucket.  Share your comments and criticisms.

Thanks for looking and Happy New Year!

Cheers,

-O

 

-It's Omar, but they call me "O".

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Thursday, December 31, 2015 8:08 PM

Hey O, really looking great Yes. I'm at that stage as well and glad you're showing the progress. 

I sprayed MM Aluminum on the wings to simulate the lacquer finish but not supper happy with it. It came out a little thick so I will probably do what you did with the 3600 grit. I was also thinking of doing the same markings for my 1/48 Revell but am going with the Big Beautiful Doll instead. I really don't like this stage. 

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Friday, January 1, 2016 12:58 PM

Larry 

That's one beautiful mustang. .you did a great job ..nice very nice. .I'm haveing issues with my trumpeter mustang. .had to move the formation lights to the other side of the wings . I had to correct the wheelwells. .scratch build the main wing spar ..I test fit the main wing to fuselage. .and geuss what. ..the dehetherl is as flat as a hawker hurricane. .Bang Head...pete 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by lzdaily@comcast.net on Friday, January 1, 2016 1:28 PM

O, Pete, thanks for the kind words. One of the most valuable lessons I've learned from folks like you on this Group Build and on the FSM Forum is this: if you goof something up on a model, keep working at it and eventually you'll get it right (or, in my case, screw it up so bad that you have to build a new one).

Steve, if you're not ready to kick me out of the Group Build yet, I'd like to stick around and build a Tamiya P-51B marked as Howard's Ding Hao. After 6 builds in which I was constantly adapting aftermarket parts for use in Accurate Miniatures kits, I want to do something completely wild and crazy: use aftermarket parts intended for a Tamiya kit in a Tamiya kit.

Happy New Year everyone!

Larry

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, January 1, 2016 2:10 PM
Larry, you’re a crazy man. No I'm not ready to kick you out, in fact you and BrandonD are carrying the build.
So..which Tamiya kit are you planning?
Steve 

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by lzdaily@comcast.net on Friday, January 1, 2016 3:08 PM

Steve,

For now, I plan to do a Tamiya P-51B. The kit decals are for a Blue Nose bird, but I plan to use aftermarket decals to mark it as Ding Hao.

Larry

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by Radial9 on Friday, January 1, 2016 4:35 PM

O,

Nice work... I'll be watching how you progress. I'm doing the same color scheme on my P-51D. Barraduda Decals CY-G "The Milli G".  What did you prime her with?

I'm not up to Alcad yet, going with Tamiya AS-12 Bare Metal Silver. Had to have the LHS order it in. Will have to decant it. A first for me.

Cheers,

Bob

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Between LA and OC, SoCal
Posted by oortiz10 on Friday, January 1, 2016 5:36 PM

Hiya Bob,

First, thanks for the pat on the back.  Much appreciated!

I'm not using a "quality" decal manufacturer on this build.  Had some old Testors and Revellogram decals laying around that I figured I'd try.  (crossing fingers)  

To prime for the Alclad, I used Alclad's proprietary white primer.  For the rest of the plastic I used some random Testors little square bottle tan that I had sitting around.  It went on a little thicker than I expected/wanted and I ended up with some serious build up against the masking.  Oh well, it was my own fault.  Live and learn.

I've heard pretty good things about Tamiya's silver.  Looking forward to seeing some shots of yours.  You shouldn't be too intimidated by Alclad.  Honestly, if I can use it with some moderately decent results, anyone can use it.  

Anyway, keep building!  Thanks for dropping me a line!

Cheers,

-O

-It's Omar, but they call me "O".

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Between LA and OC, SoCal
Posted by oortiz10 on Friday, January 1, 2016 8:39 PM

When we last left our intrepid modeler, he was preparing to repaint the camo and its demarcation lines...

Alright.  So, first thing I did was mask off the NMF before shooting some red.

Right side:

 

Left side:

 

After that, I masked the red line and painted the OD again.  Once I peeled off the masking I was super-satisfied with the results.

Right side:

 

Left side:

You can see a couple of small spots where the tape pulled up a miniscule chip of red and two tiny spots of Alclad.  The aluminum I've already touched up, but I'm going to leave the red as a bit of "weathering."

 

While I had the airbrush out and the compressor running I figured I'd spray the prop's base and its spinner.  The green and yellow are very close matches to the colors used to print the checker nose decals.

 

While the paint dried I decided to mash on some of the fiddly bits.  As I was working on the laning gear I noticed that the mounting holes in the wheels were way too big for their attachment posts on the struts.  So, I had a problem that I needed to solve.  I figured I had two options.  1) Make the strut thicker. 2) Make the hole smaller.  I went with solution #2.

I found that some 3/32" styrene tube was almost a perfect fit for the hole in the wheels.  I enlarged the holes just a bit then glued in a small piece of the tube with some liquid cement.

 

Then I trimmed and sanded the plug flush.  After that, I drilled out the new insert to match the diameter of the strut.

 

And now?  Perfect fit!  The fit is so snug that I won't even need glue!

 

Anyway, here are a couple of shots, with the stabilizers dry-fitted, to show you where I'm at.  

Right side:

 

Left side:

 

Thanks for stopping by!  Feel free to share your thoughts.  Your comments and criticisms are always welcome.

Cheers!

-O

-It's Omar, but they call me "O".

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Friday, January 1, 2016 9:05 PM

Looking super good O! 

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by lzdaily@comcast.net on Friday, January 1, 2016 9:40 PM

O,

Beautiful recovery on the demarcation line. I'm impressed.

Larry

  • Member since
    June 2010
Posted by 5-high on Friday, January 1, 2016 10:09 PM

Ditto  its looking good to me ...pete

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Between LA and OC, SoCal
Posted by oortiz10 on Saturday, January 2, 2016 2:50 PM

Hey FSM, I'm back! 

I don't have an update today, but instead I thought I'd post a quick how-to on how I masked my spinner.  I woke up this morning to find a couple of personal messages in my inbox asking me how I did it.  So, instead of answering them one-by-one, I figured I'd share my technique for those that asked and for any others who might be interested.

First off, let me start by saying this is not the best technique or the only technique.  This is only the technique that I use and that I've had success with.  Of course, your mileage may vary.  I'm sure there are others that are better and/or easier.  This is just what has worked for me.  So, having said that, let's get started.  Shall we?

I like to use eletrical (electrician's) tape for masking curves.  The stuff I use is by Plymouth.  (By the way, one roll will last you years.  I can't even tell you how long I've had this same roll.)

I like this brand because it's more "rubbery" than others.  Some are more "plasticky" and aren't as flexible or stretchy.  

First thing I do is mark out my lines on my spinner.  A mechanical pencil with a sharpened point works well.  I place the spinner on some Post-it notes or something that I can use to easily adjust its height.  

Once I have the lines drawn out, I start by cutting thin strips of tape with a sharp new blade.  My strips are usually about 1-2mm wide.  A straight edge helps keep my cuts, well, straight.  This serves two purposes.  One, it gives me a thin flexible piece of tape to work with.  Two, it gives me a clean edge on th tape to "paint against."

Once I have my strip, I cut an angle in the start of the strip towards my painting edge.  This helps the tape lay against itself when the circle is complete.  I've found that by doing this, it helps eliminate a step where the tape doesn't lay flat against the part.  Sometimes that's resulted in a bit of bleeding under the mask, or an edge that isn't sharp all the way around.

Then it's just a matter of laying the tape along your demarcation line.  I pull it tight as I go, overlapping each layer a bit.  It gives me a nice sharp edge, and it ensures that both edges of the tape pay against the part.

As you can see, the tape is flexibe enough to mask both the inner and outer diameter of your marking.  Notice that the very last layer towards the tip of the spinner has both the larger and smaller diameter edges flat against the part.

Once the tape's in place, be sure to keep the direction of your spray as close to perpendicular to the tape edge as possible.  Use low air pressure and build up the color slowly.  This will help eliminte any paint bleeding under the tape and ensure a nice sharp edge.

Just to show you how well this technique has worked for me, here are some shots of a few of my spinners.

Anyway, I hope that helps.  If anyone has any questions I am happy to answer them for ya.  Feel free to share your thoughts.  

Cheers!

-O

PS: This method would also work for those spinners that have spirals painted on 'em.  Just cut the strip and lay it in a spiral pattern over your base color.  Spray the top color, remove the strip and viola!  A spiral!

-It's Omar, but they call me "O".

  • Member since
    February 2015
  • From: California
Posted by PA24-250Flyer on Saturday, January 2, 2016 3:12 PM

Awesome tip O! Thanks for sharing!

George

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: Northern hemisphere - most of the time-
Posted by blkhwkmatt on Sunday, January 3, 2016 12:29 AM

First of all I must say that there are some amazing builds going on here, too many to go back and complement you all. Great builds and great tips, thanks for sharing.

 

I have slowly been pushing forward with the 1/32 P-51D but am still not finished with her yet.  I have the decals on, and have started the weathering process.  Here is a couple of shots before the weathering.

If you recall I built a 1/48 scale P-51B to "practice" the alclad techniques needed, and it too sat for a while until I could find the decals for "Berlin Express", here is where that one sits now.  Have to add the fiddly bits and the landing light lens and I can call it done.

Thanks for looking.

<Matt

Quidquid latine dictum sit, altum videtur!!! - Anything said in Latin sounds profound!

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, January 3, 2016 12:34 AM

Nice job Matt! That is some great work. Yes

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

  • Member since
    March 2007
  • From: NJ
Posted by JMart on Sunday, January 3, 2016 8:09 AM
Well, back after some time of crazy work hours and holidays. First, Merry Christmas, Happy holidays of whatever flavor you chose to celebrate. Great work in here!
Joe – Great work, as usual. Look forward to seeing your finished model in FSM.
Matt – Very nice, really like the well area.
George – Looks good from here, the final product will be worth it!
Steve – The GT looks great! I think I have that one in my (old) stash, not sure… what is the base?
O – Great work and detailing, thanks for sharing that tip!
Welcome to all the new builders!
I keep making progress on my builds, with the usual smattering of errors and “learning moments”. I will finally post my pics and notes in a day or two.
Cheers

 

James 

 

 

  • Member since
    July 2013
Posted by lzdaily@comcast.net on Sunday, January 3, 2016 8:57 AM

Matt,

Great work! Can't wait to see them finished.

Larry

  • Member since
    January 2015
Posted by Radial9 on Sunday, January 3, 2016 10:30 AM
o, Thank you for sharing your spinner masking technique. I went out in the garage on the pegboard and looked. Electrical tape from Plymouth. Preordained! Cheers, Bob
  • Member since
    July 2014
Posted by modelcrazy on Sunday, January 3, 2016 11:08 AM

JMart
Steve – The GT looks great! I think I have that one in my (old) stash, not sure… what is the base?

JMart,
The base is the V8 Crystal Clear Display Base by Pioneer. I bought it at HL for $5.00 with the 40% off coupon. It the base with the mirrored floor option.
Steve

Steve

Building a kit from your stash is like cutting a head off a Hydra, two more take it's place.

 

 

http://www.spamodeler.com/forum/

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