yes, the Iowas are impressive ships. 

For those interested, the "displacement tonnage" of a ship is nominally the amount of water that the ship displaces when fully loaded and floating. A cubic foot of water nominally weighs 62.4 pounds, of course variables apply. It's therefore the weight of the ship itself.

Because most ships other than these monsters want to displace more water than they weigh as designed for the purposes of stability and cargo capacity, they carry significant amounts of additional weight as ballast.

Early conversion plans that would have removed the 5" and 16" guns would have added 8,600 tons of ballast to make up for the weight lost.

Ok--another probably obvious thing to anyone but me. Below is a 1:1 image and they have some sort of cover where the guns travel. The model kit has only slots. Those are removeable covers correct? 

Ted4321

For comparison, the Union Pacific Big Boy weighs 1,250,000lbs. 

Ted4321

Amazing machine you're building. 

Bakster, I think those are covers for museum purposes.

Here is one of the New Jesery's 5" guns during opperation.

modelcrazy

Bakster, I think those are covers for museum purposes. Here is one of the New Jesery's 5" guns during opperation.

Very good Admiral--thanks for confirming!  

Yeah, I think those are just for museum display. It's amazing how much trash people stuff into gun barrels etc- I want to wring someone's neck for the sacrilage...  

When the Iowas were decommissioned for the last time in 1991, metal covers were welded at the bases of the 16" and 5" guns.

The New Jersey had those removed from the 16" rifles in about 2001. That in itself is quite a story as the removal, grinding, repair and installation of the "Bucklers", which are heavy, had to be done with pure human power- no dockside m cranes!

I don't know too much about the Wisky in it's current location. I know that the Navy owns and operates the location of the ship and the Nauticus Museum. The City of Norfolk has authority over her care. And like all of these things, the actual maintenance involves a lot of volunteer hours, outreach for donations, and endless tour guidance.

It's one thing to have a crew of 1,900 men who are available, another to rely on older retired guys and people who love the ship enough to donate their spare time.

Interesting question, are you modeling the ship in her last operational state of post-decommissioning?

Instesting info GM  Love it!

GMorrison

When the Iowas were decommissioned for the last time in 1991, metal covers were welded at the bases of the 16" and 5" guns. The New Jersey had those removed from the 16" rifles in about 2001. That in itself is quite a story as the removal, grinding, repair and installation of the "Bucklers", which are heavy, had to be done with pure human power- no dockside m cranes!

That is really interesting, Bill. I'd love to hear more. I am amazed that you guys know all this stuff.

What is the backstory on why they added metal covers? Do you know? It almost seems like they are protecting the guns for a just in case they'd need to recommission the ship?

GMorrison

Interesting question, are you modeling the ship in her last operational state of post-decommissioning?

My goal is to build her in last operational state, just prior to decommissioning. My question spawned from making sure I understand correctly how those guns are staged while at sea.

You guys are an awesome resource and it sure makes this thread a learning experience.  

Lov’n all this BB talk! One day I want to build the North Carolina. Got me back into ship mode today. Possibly ready to prime and paint the deck and superstructure tomorrow. Decided to place the ladders and hatches at the least before painting. I covered all the places on the brass where deck fittings and mounts will go so there will be a good metal surface for glue later on.

Post of the week, at least IMO. I have never built a ship with brass decks any larger than deck edge catwalks. I always paint the decks first and then mask them.

I like those model holders. I see those "flying" pedestals. Like.

That is lookin da bomb Mongoose

Looking good. Nice PE work...you want to come over and do my Gato shears??

Undecided on doing the Eduard decking on the Gato or not, a lot to cut out and put in 2x2mm cross bracing.  Probably will do it since I want to donate her.

TheMongoose

Lov’n all this BB talk! One day I want to build the North Carolina. Got me back into ship mode today. Possibly ready to prime and paint the deck and superstructure tomorrow. Decided to place the ladders and hatches at the least before painting. I covered all the places on the brass where deck fittings and mounts will go so there will be a good metal surface for glue later on.

 

 

  Deck the Halls... With PE!    Wow. Great looking details. Beautilful work applying the Decks!  I have one carrier with a brass deck. It's bent/dented at the Bow and I never could fix it (1/700 Hiryu). Never gonna try brass deck again. (Although I still have a "Joe World" brass deck for a Zuikaku/Shokaku and it does look real good.)

   Nino

goldhammer

Looking good. Nice PE work...you want to come over and do my Gato shears??

Undecided on doing the Eduard decking on the Gato or not, a lot to cut out and put in 2x2mm cross bracing.  Probably will do it since I want to donate her.

 

ROADTRIP

Looks great Mongoose! Nice work.

Thanks guys, makes me feel like this is going ok! We’re always our own worst critic So encouraging words sure are valuable when doing something new.

this afternoon AGONY is realizing all those holes just under the deck aren’t portholes   Turns out they are for the standard plastic handrails in the kit. Out comes the bondo lol

Somehow i forgot to Quote one of the other posts about rigging. Sorry about that

I got my Missouri rigging from  Bobe's Hobby House. He sells a couple dozen different colors, sizes and ever rope. The EZ Line rigging material  can be stretched up to 700% normal size and return to shape. Plus it's CHEAP.

I am taking note, KC.

Oh yeah, a little backstep.

In my case I'm just about to the PE point. I should have some pics tomorrow. All I have left is the mast, radars and railing, then the painting starts.

modelcrazy

The second ship installment, getting those who want to expand their horizons, or just like building ships. The ships of different nations GB’s continue with American ships.

Any ship which flies or flew the Stars and Stripes is acceptable. Warships, training ships, cargo ships, passenger ships, captured ships, racing yachts, submarines, private boats etc. any era.

You have up to 2 years to submit an entry and no build time limit. That’s right, as long as I'm around, I will answer your posted WIP updates. I know how long it can take to build a ship, Prince of Wales, I’m looking at you.

So, who wants to join me in building something American? I have several in the stash and can pick easy one or hard. I have several in mind but believe I have THE one picked out, besides, the wife got it for me a few Christmas’ ago so………

The small print.

1. Starts on Aug 1^st runs until time ends or the Earth is destroyed.

2. You have two years to enter and until FSM goes away to post it.

3. WIP photos a must.

4. 10% completed or less please.

5. Crossovers allowed.

6. As much or little AM as you want.

7. Scratch or OOB.

8. Enjoy yourself, it’s just a plastic kit and a hobby.

9. I reserve the right to change the rules slightly to make the GB more enjoyable if necessary.

 

Fleet Admiral Modelcrazy

 

 

Admiral, just to clarify: does “flew the Stars and Stripes” include American ships sold to other countries? 

Yes, as long as it is/was commissioned to, or in the case of commercial ships, registered with the United States at some point during it's career, it qualifies.

More work on the guns.

For the barrels I used K & S 1/32 round tubing. The kit pieces come with a structure at the base of the barrels that look like the lobe of a camshaft. Since I don't know the official name for that structure, I will call it a cam.

Without the cams, brass tubing alone looked bare and incomplete. The tolerances and scale of the cam made it impossible for me to make a plastic replacement, I instead used a dollop of super glue, one on each side of the tube. I did a little shaping with a sanding stick and then test fit.

In the image below the guns are not glued, so they may look a little wonky. I decided to paint the parts separately and install them later. You can't see the CA work very well especially without paint, but from my bench, it seems to fit the bill. You get a sense of something behind those barrels.

Now that the guns are done and awaiting paint--I think I will start work on the deck structures.

Building away the day! I've got the major elements of the paint done. Tried out some oil caning on the side of the helicopter bay. I used dark ghost grey to preshade it and am pretty happy with how it turned out. Now starting to build up the masts and all the boxes that go on the deck.

I don't know what those are Bakster, cams are good enough for me.

Mongoose, yea paint. I like the oil canning efect that's being used by many builders today. It really looks good and is something I want to try.

Here are som shots of my Spruance.

Question: the superstructure of my kit has the windows molded solid, no openings. If I could create openings, that would go a long way to add realism. Keeping in mind this is 1:700 scale, it could be a difficult task. There are no PE kits for this model that I am aware of, so I would need to fabricate something. 

I have two thoughts. The first it to notch them open using my rotary saw. If I manage to not slip... I’d still have problems notching the tops and corners without breaking the frames. My second thought is to cut the windows off entirely and then construct new frames using styrene square stock. Eitherway seems filled with pitfalls. 

Has anyone attempted this?

I’ve done that with a drill and microfile. Punch the hole thru the middle with the drill bit, then use a square file to rough out the corenrs. Anything different I’ve attempted ended up with rounded corners. The square file allows you to cut in two sides at once and make them 90 deg. At least thats the best I’ve been able to do.

Here's the smallest most detailed piece Ive ever done. When I 1st looked at the instructions I said hell no! But decided it should be a challenge instead. You cut a chunk out of the existing plastic arm and insert the folde PE swivel mount between the 2 leftover pieces. Then put those crazy tiny wires across the dish. Amazed they didn't fling off into infinity.

Those look great guys! 

Mongoose: I love that pre-shading you did, it look fantastic!!! 

Bakster: Nice work on the guns and frankly I think I'd just paint the portholes in 1/700 instead of trying to drill them out- but that's just me! 

Steve: She looks good!!! 

Bakster, are you talking about the bridge windows? You can thin the back of the piece using a Dremel, then do as Mongoose sugested. To fill the windows, after painting the windows with Future, or Testers window glue, to simulate glass. The port holes can be drilled but like Gamera indicated, at that scale you might want to weigh the options.

Mongoose, that is small and good idea about cutting the plastic first. Try putting on dipoles on a 1/700 radar, not happening.