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WW2 BATTLES--PEARL HARBOR 2005 (aug 7 - - december 7 07:55am) finished

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  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by JoeRugby on Thursday, August 11, 2005 11:11 PM
I worked on the spars for the 1/72 flaps and in the wheel wells...I don't know if I am cross eyed or just tired! Using styrene card stock then 6# monofilament for the spar detail...slow and steady, slow and steady...does any one know the tail numbers for George Welsh's plane, White 160...read about him, have the decals in my spares box to "make" everything necessary except for those bloody numbers...
Check out the WW I Special Interest Group @ http://swannysmodels.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=WW1SIG
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Posted by fightnjoe on Thursday, August 11, 2005 11:14 PM
forgot to add. i have opened the kit and have begun the assembly of the pit. trying to get as much of the base pit assembled then i will paint the pit base color and start the detailing. pics will follow in the next day or so.


joe

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Posted by ygmodeler4 on Thursday, August 11, 2005 11:25 PM
I started by putting the seat in and now I have to go to bed.Angry [:(!]
But a quick q? What is Cockpit color (Mitsubitshi)? Zinc Chromate Green?

-Josiah

  • Member since
    September 2011
Posted by fightnjoe on Friday, August 12, 2005 12:02 AM
depending upon the mfg of the original a/c. most though that i have seen from the attack seem to be the whitish green. tamiya japanese interior green xf-71 is what i use for it.


joe

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Posted by ygmodeler4 on Friday, August 12, 2005 8:40 AM
Thanks Joe.

-Josiah

  • Member since
    December 2004
  • From: 288921 E, 5659868 N UTMz12, NAD83
Posted by jboutin on Friday, August 12, 2005 12:59 PM
Darren, thanks, the cut away picture does help.

Joe, those pics will be awesome, thanks you, looking forward to them.

As for the colour of the Zero, I too have found the dark 'caramel' or 'ame-iro' is mentioned a lot. I have acrylic Tamiya IJN grey I was going to use but I think I should add some tan to it. I've never sprayed with Tamiya acrylic colours before, do I have to use their thinner? or can I use water or alcohol. Also is it a bad Idea to mix diferent brands of paints? I really am still a rookie at this.
JAY - fighting evil since 2:15pm, July 8,1976 -
  • Member since
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  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Friday, August 12, 2005 2:27 PM
you dont need to thin Tamiya paint when using an air brush

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Friday, August 12, 2005 2:29 PM
Jay,

I am building a A6M2-N Rufe Zero and the seatbelt I have seen and am using for it is the one shoulder strap type you have on the one in the above photo and yours looks real good.

Joe,

The B is done. I did the dull coat this afternoon and attached the canopy. If you are wondering about the missing stars on the fuselage sides I did some build reviews on this particular kit and the reviewer said there should be none there. So I looked further and found that during that time period it was both ways so I left them off and put two on wing top and two on wing bottom. After much searching I found this particular aircraft was at Wheeler Field, Oahu and part of the 18th Pursuit Group (which squadron I was not able to locate). During the attack it was damaged but later repaired to do patrol duty. After I complete a group build in another thread I will be doing a Zero for this Group Build if I may. This A6M2 Type 21 took part in the attack and flew off the carrier Akagi and was part of the 1st Koku-Sentai.

Here are the finals of the P-40B.







Richard

  • Member since
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  • From: 288921 E, 5659868 N UTMz12, NAD83
Posted by jboutin on Friday, August 12, 2005 3:33 PM
Nice looking P-40 Richard, does is have the 'USARMY' on the bottom of the wing?

And that CP photo in my previous post was not mine, it is a pic of a 1:72 A6M2 I found on the web, I am just using it to get the layout of the harness.
JAY - fighting evil since 2:15pm, July 8,1976 -
  • Member since
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  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Friday, August 12, 2005 6:02 PM
Jay - I know how you feel looking for resources... just looking for the right color was bad enough, Mine for the Midway build is beltless as I am doing it closed canopy (fogged the included separate canopy with alcohol... wierd...) Did you see the link over on the Battle of Midway build to the two Japan aircraft reference sites?

I've found a few bottles from Tamiya that were a bit thick. don't know if it was the age of the bottle or what. If you need to thin it water and/or alcohol work well for some, I prefer the retarder in the Tamiya branded thinner myself Seems for me the results come put fairly smooth. You can mix acrylics like Tamiya and MM well (haven't tried it on all colors so mix a small amount first to see what happens Wink [;)])

Jeeves - wow! I didn't know Academy made a 1/48 Peashooter. My dad made one for me when I was a kid in 1/72 and it was small even to little old me!!! I'm enjoying this 1/32 one... not a lot of detail on the plastic but it still looks good. (Hasegawa)

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
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Posted by fightnjoe on Friday, August 12, 2005 7:38 PM
richard it looks incredible. i have pics of that bird damaged taken dec 8th. well done my friend.



joe

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Posted by fightnjoe on Friday, August 12, 2005 7:42 PM
jay i will get them this weekend. now remember that the japanese planes when they were weathered bronzed. the newer a/c were a green/gray.


joe

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Posted by darson on Friday, August 12, 2005 10:47 PM
Great (and unbelievably fast) work Richard, she's a keeper for sure. Thumbs Up [tup]Thumbs Up [tup]

By the way, is it my imagination or is the canopy on backwards in the bottom pic?

Cheers
Darren
  • Member since
    November 2003
  • From: Virginia
Posted by JoeRugby on Saturday, August 13, 2005 12:04 AM
QUOTE: Originally posted by JoeRugby

I worked on the spars for the 1/72 flaps and in the wheel wells...I don't know if I am cross eyed or just tired! Using styrene card stock then 6# monofilament for the spar detail...slow and steady, slow and steady...does any one know the tail numbers for George Welsh's plane, White 160...read about him, have the decals in my spares box to "make" everything necessary except for those bloody numbers...


Well I have the wheel wells done, first coat of interior green is on...back to work on those flaps now...1/72 Academy P40B kit. The "spars" are fishing monofilament...

Check out the WW I Special Interest Group @ http://swannysmodels.com/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=WW1SIG
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 13, 2005 8:57 AM
Thanks all. Jay - yes, the U.S. ARMY is under the wing. joe - thanks for the help. Darren - you have keen sight. The canopy is on wrong. Fortunately it just sits there and has been reversed, thanks. I'll be back later with the A6M2.

Richard
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Saturday, August 13, 2005 6:51 PM
ok got a little work done today, I was finishing up my Zero for the Battle of Midway build. My wife bot me the Iwata HP-CR today when she went to Hobby Lobby and although I was saving for the HP-CS who can look a gift horse in the mouth???? Wink [;)]

All I have to say so far after spraying MM Aluminum (had to thin it a lot more than I am used to), Grey and AlcladII Aluminum is WOW!!! this is one nice brush!!! I know a lot of it has to do with going from siphon fed (used the metal color cup) to a true gravity fed but the brush feels nice and solid in my hand and thrigger just gliiiiides under my finger!!

Here's a pic of the engine (not glued together just dry fitted so it looks a little lopsided and there is some flash trimming to do)



Mike (Jeeves) - one thing I noticed from the squadron in action on the P-26 and Profile book on the P-26 is the engine cover (the round piece done in Alclad in the center of the engine in the pic) was almost always the same color as the body color in most cases. I did see one olive gloss/yellow gloss one with a yellow engine cover but that was it... no big deal I was just looking for me since I was doing a NMF one to make sure it wouldn't be grey or some such... So I imagine yours would be OD...
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
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  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Saturday, August 13, 2005 6:58 PM
Ok I take that back Mike (Jeeves), I found a few more resources and MOST had the same color as the body but some the contrasting color... enough to not make it a 'rule of thumb'

(the Mike (Jeeves) thing is because there are two Mikes here now.. wanna keep the confusion down haha)
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Melbourne, Australia
Posted by darson on Sunday, August 14, 2005 7:56 AM
Tom that engine looks fantastic, nice job Thumbs Up [tup]Thumbs Up [tup]. Would you mind giving me a little more of a run down on how you did it please? Also were you using MM Metalizers and if so what the heck did you thin it with?

Oh and aren't they just excellent air brushes, I thought people were talking a little bit of Censored [censored] when they raved about the Iwata, but they weren't Big Smile [:D]

Cheers
Darren
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, August 14, 2005 8:11 AM
Darren - no just regular aluminum paint... I am doing the cockpit floor and such in that as the aluminum from alclad is a little shiny for that... Just wanted to give some texture contrast as well...

The cylinders are MM buffable Burnt Metal with no wash, the center hub showing through the metal shield is MM Aluminum, the shield itself is AlcladII Aluminum, as is the prop.

I shot the Burnt metal on the cylinders while still on the sprue, detached and placed them on the block which was done in aluminum. I then used a pipe cleaner to shine the smooth pieces of the cylinders a bit to provide some contrast. MM acylic red is what I used on the wires. Testors spray gloss black did the pushrods justice, with MM Aluminum covering the crankcase center (re: the hub inthe shield is the sleeve for the prop shaft) Testors gloss black also covered the shield and prop, then I shot Alclad II over it. I may go back over a few pieces with either duraluminium or dark aluminum to give more contrast on the shiny metal parts... I need to trim the ends of the pushrods still to allow them to sit under the cylinder heads properly and touch up some of the gloss black on the lower pushrods where I overshot with aluminum from the crankcase area...

And yeah... as for the Iwata ... it's that nice!!! Wink [;)]
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    December 2003
  • From: 37deg 40.13' N 95deg 29.10'W
Posted by scottrc on Sunday, August 14, 2005 9:09 AM
Hi everyone. I got my workshop back together and took the day off to get a start on the 1/350 Arizona. Got everything primed, the hull painted and have just finished painting the deck.

I also jsut finished building one of the resin float planes from WEM. That was a lot of fun and with the PE catapault, looks like a fine little model all by itself.

I'm not sure if I'm going to try to seal up all these terrible seams in the deck and superstructure or just leave them.

Scott

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, August 14, 2005 11:10 AM
good news Scott! Looking forward to seeing pics, especially of the catapult and Kingfisher... Those kind of things add SO MUCH to a ship model I think!!!
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Sunday, August 14, 2005 4:02 PM
hey Scott just to let you know the decks that make up the bridge and Forecastle need stairs to make it more realistic. When I have a chance I'll get a picture of my Arizona to show what I mean.

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

  • Member since
    September 2011
Posted by fightnjoe on Sunday, August 14, 2005 5:34 PM
good news indeed scott. glad to see you made it through the flood.



joe

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Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, August 14, 2005 6:13 PM
ok the cockpit is painted, washed and about 70% done (there were rudder pedals, a control stick and instrument panel basically on the P-26's, nothing fancy. The engine is glued and drying... hope to have pics tonight.

Thinking about doing a wash on the inner cockpit but actually once you glue the fuselage the detail is upside down inside the cockpit and the only way you could see if is with a fiberoptic scope stuck in there... might just leave it be...
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    October 2004
  • From: Northern Virginia
Posted by ygmodeler4 on Sunday, August 14, 2005 10:01 PM
Tom those are sum purty ponies(the engine).

HEres my progress the Cockpit is done.




-Josiah

  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Melbourne, Australia
Posted by darson on Monday, August 15, 2005 7:39 AM
Tom, many thanks for that explanation on the engine, when I see something really good I like to know how to replicate the effect . I will use that technique on the engine on my Kate.

YG your Zero cockpit looks great, I'm looking forward to seeing the bird sealed and painted.

Cheers
Darren
  • Member since
    September 2011
Posted by fightnjoe on Monday, August 15, 2005 8:33 AM
ok finally some pics. jay i havent forgotten you my friend. i will have them hopefully when i return from work today.






joe

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  • From: Dallas
Posted by KINGTHAD on Monday, August 15, 2005 8:38 AM
The office looks good Joe

Thad
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Northern KY
Posted by mucker on Monday, August 15, 2005 9:02 AM
Tom:

Beautiful engine. Great job with the new AB. Now I want one!

Fightnjoe, ygmodeler4, jboutin:

Now I am perplexed...I am putting together the Tamiya A6M2 and have been reading that the cockpit color is close to US Interior Green. Both the Tamiya callout, your pictures and your posts say XF-71...which is correct?

Just one of those things that makes you go "hmmmmm....."

nice work so far, by the way.

  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Kincheloe Michigan
Posted by Mikeym_us on Monday, August 15, 2005 1:59 PM
Joe what the blue blazes is wrong with those seats? otherwise nice work and did you dry brush the IP or is it the eduard set? BTW did you paint the interior Japanese interior green or did you just use plain old interior green since the Model Master Interior green I have is a pretty close match to the Tamiya Japanese Interior Green.

Mucker I have no idea if it close to US interior green or not but the US has used Green Zinc Chromate for the most part but if you don't have the XF-71 Japanese Interior Green I'd say go for Model Masters Interior Green not the Green Zinc Chromate but the bottle that says interior green. That is a close but not completely exact match.

On the workbench: Dragon 1/350 scale Ticonderoga class USS BunkerHill 1/720 scale Italeri USS Harry S. Truman 1/72 scale Encore Yak-6

The 71st Tactical Fighter Squadron the only Squadron to get an Air to Air kill and an Air to Ground kill in the same week with only a F-15   http://photobucket.com/albums/v332/Mikeym_us/

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